Australia’s iconic road trips

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Journeys of epic proportions through wilderness that will shift your perceptions and stay with you forever.

Here are 11 of Australia’s iconic road trips to inspire you from our special 100 Amazing Road Trips around Australia series.

Iconic road trips

12. Gibb River Road, WA

Storied in outback folklore, ‘The Gibb’ is both emphatically terrestrial but entirely otherworldly. As far as journeys go, this intrepid drive quietly tattoos an everlasting ownership across your heart with its penetrating beauty and consuming remoteness. Yet it’s not for the timid of heart.

Corrugated roads rearrange the marrow of your bones, toothy reptiles lurk in dark waters, seemingly fatalistic bovines lurch into the path of your 4WD, and backpackers (overwhelmingly German and stalking profound isolation) populate campgrounds.

Gibb River Road Western Australia WA
Embrace the outback along Gibb River Road. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

The 660-kilometre road trip from Derby to Kununurra, minus detours, was laid in the 1960s as a means of shuttling cattle from station to station. But today, it’s better loved as a roughly two-week-long adventure drive that lures everyone from senior explorers to the aforementioned backpackers, and naively ambitious families.

Departing from Broome

In Australia’s North West, the first sensory bafflement comes at Broome, where most people launch their Gibb River Road exploration. Here, the contrasting collision of iridescent blue ocean and the ochre cliffs of the Kimberley resets your parameters for appropriate coastal colour palettes.

Sunset camel ride at Cable Beach in Broome
Ride a camel at sunset in Broome, WA.

But as you drive from the revitalising blue of crystalline waves, you find yourself following an endless spectrum of warm tones. Red pindan is displaced by tyres and, in turn, displaces many a tyre.

Cream-coloured dust seeps into every seam of every item. And the King Leopold Ranges bathed with the highlighter-pink of sunset are set ablaze until the deep mauves of dusk descend to cool everything down.

Gibb River Road sunset
The sunset puts on a spectacle of vibrant colours each evening in the Kimberly. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Stargazing opportunities

Then, there are the night skies. They deliver a transformative surprise on your first night free from light pollution. You might just glance up as you make your way to the Windjana Gorge Campsite toilet block and – bam! – you’re anchored mid-step as the Milky Way unfurls in all its glittery loveliness above. This moment reveals a supreme awareness of your miniscule part in the universe, alongside envy for astrophysicists and their vocational stargazing.

Stargazing Kimberly Western Australia
Marvel at the glittering night sky in the Kimberly region. (Image: Tourism WA)

Windjana Gorge

As you wiggle your way along, there are unmissable detours that make this journey exceptional. In the Napier Ranges, Windjana Gorge has an almost-unfathomable history as a reef system circa some 350 million years ago. Let your hand brush over the ancient limestone walls that were once home to Paleozoic fish and keep a lookout for their reptilian descendants lounging in pools. Don’t worry, they’re just freshies.

Gibb River Road Crossing 4WD
Embark on an adventurous journey into the breathtaking wilderness along the Gibb River Road. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Tunnel Creek

Just 33 clicks up the road, enjoy the opportunity to get knee-deep in freshwater croc territory at Tunnel Creek. A locale of acute significance, this was the Waterloo of famous Indigenous leader Jandamarra, who stood his ground against exploitation but was ultimately fatally wounded here at his hideout.

These days, it’s more chillout than hideout, as lazy freshies loll in the cave’s shallow waters, watching with vague contempt as trepidatious tourists slosh by, guided through the darkness by a thin beam of torchlight.

Dimalurru Tunnel Creek, Kimberly, Western Australia
The beautiful Dimalurru (Tunnel Creek) is a culturally significant site for the local Bunuba people. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Wild swimming spots

There are also gorges pitted with transcendent pools for plunging. Wild swimming in this way is an inimitable experience. Paddling out in surrounds as dreamily unpolished as the Australian outback has a way of storming new frontiers of relaxation.

Take your pick of gorges along, or just off, The Gibb. There’s Adcock Gorge, only five minutes off-route, which makes a quick dip irresistible.

Horseshoe-shaped Galvans Gorge is stirred by a seasonal waterfall and is accessed easily by an achievable trail.

Manning Gorge is shouldered by cooling cliffs; it takes a bit of work to hike the three-kilometre track for the pleasure of a dip, but this stunning waterhole pays big dividends for your efforts.

But Dalmanyi (or Bell Gorge) is perhaps the watery emerald in the tiara. You’ll need to allocate the heft of the day here and, at 30 kilometres from The Gibb, it’s a significant side-step. But you can spend the night at Silent Grove Campsite to make it worthwhile. Scramble over a rocky creek, then up to descend into the tiered gorge into which waterfalls cascade in silvery ribbons.

Bell Gorge WA
Detour for a refreshing swim at the stunning Bell Gorge (Image: Tourism WA)

El Questro Homestead

Roughing it in campgrounds, such as Silent Grove, which is accessed exclusively by 4WD vehicles via a rib-rattling road, is undeniably a huge drawcard of this road trip. But you’re not letting anyone down if you leave your swag stowed for a few days in favour of a downy pillow at the El Questro Homestead.

From here you can lap up the luxury of chef-made meals, take incredible guided tours, such as fishing, cultural and scenic flights, and generally absorb the surrounding environment with a crisp glass of wine from your suite.

Road to El Questro
Take the iconic drive along Gibb River Road to El Questro.

Purnululu National Park

Don’t hurry from El Questro, but when you do return to the dusty road, you’re only an hour-and-a-half from The Gibb’s full-stop of Kununurra.

Lake Argyle and the Bungle Bungle Range await to jostle for your attention. With eyes magnetised to Purnululu National Park’s banded domes, the journey hovers ethereally in the near-past.

But you’ll find, while the memory may erode a little at the edges, your wandering heart will remain sworn to this journey ever after.

The Bungle Bungle Range, Purnululu National Park
Discover the magnificent, flowing rock formations in the Bungle Bungle range. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Distance:

660 kilometres

Words by Lara Picone

13. Inland from Sydney to Melbourne, NSW

The flight from Sydney to Melbourne is one of the world’s top 10 busiest air routes (according to flight data analyst OAG), all the better for making the 845-kilometre inland drive, mostly along the Hume Motorway, a delightfully uncrowded option.

This is one of those drives that most bookmark as something they will do ‘one day’. But it really is worth prioritising for its lovely outlook to rolling hills and flat plains seemingly bleached by the sunshine into a perfect palette of taupe, beige and earthy greens, and its big-name country and regional towns on both sides of the border.

Railway Bridge Gundagai
Kick back with some friendly locals at picturesque Gundagai, an ideal stop-off between Sydney and Melbourne. (Image: Destination NSW)

While limited stops will get you to the outskirts of the Victorian capital in about 8.5 hours, taking a few days transforms the journey into an experience in its own right rather than just a means of getting from A to B.

The best towns to visit

In NSW, towns like Goulburn, Collector, Jugiong, Gundagai, Wagga Wagga and Albury are all an easy side trip from the highway, and offer up delights as divergent as canine statues to regional art galleries to award-winning accommodation options.

Plan to spend your first night at either the stylishly revamped heritage pub The Sir George in Jugiong or in one of Kimo Estate’s architecturally designed eco huts just outside of Gundagai.

Kimo estate eco hut
Glamp in a modern eco-hut at Kimo Estate, surrounded by the stunning rural beauty of a working 7000-acre sheep and cattle farm. (Image: Destination NSW)

Over the border in Victoria, signs to Beechworth, considered to be one of the prettiest towns in the country, Rutherglen, with its wineries and seasonal local produce menus at the likes of Jones Winery & Vineyard, and Glenrowan, the site of Ned Kelly’s last stand, are equally tempting to follow.

Beechworth VIC
Stroll the historic streets of Beechworth.

Add another night to the journey with a stay in Rutherglen at one of Mt Ophir Estate’s six luxury accommodation options including The Residence, the original heritage homestead of the estate, or the cosy Winemakers Cottage.

14. Darwin to Kakadu, NT

Barrelling down red dirt roads that lead to the next cache of jaw-dropping rock art and secret swimming spots, and crossing rivers by driving right through them: a Kakadu road trip might be easily ticked off the bucket list from Darwin but feels like an unforgettable adventure into uncharted territory.

Kakadu Rock Art
Transport yourself into Australia’s rich and ancient history by discovering rock art at Kakadu. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

Distance:

256 kilometres

Stay:

Glamp in one of Cooinda Lodge’s Outback Retreats.

15. Kosciuszko Alpine Way, NSW

The twists and turns of the Kosciuszko Alpine Way, which carves a course up and over NSW’s Snowy Mountains through landscapes of mountain forests mythologised by Banjo Paterson, can be driven in under three hours. But we choose to slow right down and savour what this classic winter destination has to offer us in summer.

Cooma

Setting out from Cooma and cruising past the huge glassy expanse of Lake Jindabyne, we roll into Kosciuszko National Park with its pine-clad ridges immortalised in The Man from Snowy River.

Lake Jindabyne road trip
See the stunning Lake Jindabyne pool out before you on the drive from Cooma. (Image: Destination NSW)

Thredbo

We stopover in Thredbo to stretch our legs on Australia’s highest peak, hiking through alpine meadows strewn with granite outcrops and wildflowers. And we amble through snow gum forests that hug the Thredbo River on a track that starts right outside our digs.

With its loft bedroom kitted out with In Bed linens, a Japanese-inspired onsen and an uninterrupted view of Mt Kosciuszko, The Eastern Thredbo Village’s Cedar Cabin is heaven for connoisseurs of both design and the outdoors, rivalled only in style by its sister Oak Apartment. Its balcony is the perfect place to perch and contemplate our surrounds over a cup of coffee before continuing.

Cedar Cabin The Eastern Thredbo
Spend a dreamy winter afternoon sequestered at Thredbo Village’s Cedar Cabin. (Image: Monique Eastern)

Khancoban

The Alpine Way winds for 90 more scenic minutes to Khancoban in the foothills of the Snowy Mountains, where we can choose to explore further: the Snowy Valleys Way forks from here – west to Beechworth in Victoria’s High Country and north to Gundagai in NSW’s Riverina.

Great Alpine Way
Marvel at the scenery that flanks the winding road along the Great Alpine Way. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Distance:

175 kilometres.

Words by Imogen Eveson

16. Hobart to Cradle Mountain, Tas

Synonymous with Tasmania’s great outdoors, Cradle Mountain – Lake St Clair National Park is on many nature lovers’ lists. It’s on mine and my eldest son’s as we depart Hobart, hiking boots packed, the GPS set for Sheffield.

Central Highlands Tasmania
Cruise through the rolling hills and tranquil pastures of Tasmania’s Central Highlands. (Image: Tourism Tasmania/Adrian Cook)

We take the slow and scenic route through the Central Highlands and arrive at the gateway town, which doubles as an outdoor gallery with over 140 murals.

The impressive craggy face of Mt Roland is our silent neighbour as we explore the region and make day trips to Cradle Mountain, an easy 45 minutes’ drive away.

Cradle Mountain Tasmania
Witness the view of Cradle Mountain, surrounded by the serene waters of Dove Lake. (Image: Cultivate Productions)

Distance:

321 kilometres

Stay:

On the slopes of Mt Roland near Sheffield, Silver Ridge Retreat has nine self-contained cottages surrounded by wilderness.

Words by Jennifer Johnston

17. The Nullarbor

When I decided I wanted to cross the Nullarbor a friend gave me the best advice. What they said changed everything about the way I planned and performed the journey. It was, quite simply, “stop and see everything".

First up, I eliminated time constraints. Also, I went solo. I knew that, chances were, this was a once-in-a-lifetime road trip and I didn’t want anything or anyone pressuring me to pick up the pace.

The Nullarbor
Nullarbor means “no trees" in Latin.

Ceduna to Point Sinclair

Ceduna, on Wirangu Country, is the Nullarbor’s most eastern town. After oysters and chilled wine at a roadside bar, I headed south down an unsealed road towards Point Sinclair and Cactus Beach. Along the way, I passed between a grey and a pink lake and wondered if I was tripping.

Lake Macdonnell
Pink meets green on the causeway that along Lake Macdonnell, a jewel of the Nullabor Plain. (Image: Riley M Williams)

Head of Bight

An hour’s drive west of Yalata community is Head of Bight. Southern right whales can seasonally be seen there but I spied a white pointer at sunrise.

Eucla

From there it took me eight hours to travel the 200-kilometre stretch to Eucla. Stopping at all six lookouts on the world’s largest limestone karst where the Bunda Cliffs drop into the pounding Southern Ocean was my kind of way to spend a whole day.

That afternoon I crossed into Western Australia and camped on Mirning Country under the biggest, starriest sky. To me, there’s no better accommodation on the Nullarbor.

Still ahead lay adventures to Weebubbie Cave, sand-logged Eucla Telegraph Station and a 20-rung ladder descent into Cocklebiddy Cave. I can’t even tell you how many more days that took and it doesn’t matter anyway. It was never about that.

Nullarbor Roadhouse is one of the best places to stay or stop for food when crossing the Nullarbor. (Image: Michael Waterhouse Photography)

Distance:

Eyre Highway (A1) from Ceduna SA to Norseman WA is 1200 kilometres.

Words by Elspeth Callender

18. Mighty Murray River Drive

Weaving its way through three states – NSW, Victoria and South Australia – the mighty Murray River can be navigated by water, of course, but the journey along and over it by road offers up the chance to really understand the significance of its presence on the landscape and to those who dwell close to it.

Albury

Aim to start the journey in the twin towns of Albury on the NSW side of the border or Wodonga on the Victorian side, and make sure to build in at least a day to explore them; Albury is a wonderfully cosmopolitan spot with art galleries, fine-dining restaurants like Bistro Selle and boutique accommodation such as Circa 1928 , housed in a former Art Deco bank.

Stay at the elegant Circa 1928 in Albury.
Stay at the elegant Circa 1928 in Albury.

Moama & Echuca

Setting off, it is a 227-kilometre drive to the border town of Moama (twinned with Echuca on the opposite side of the river in Victoria), but there are ample diversions along the way to stretch this leg out to a two-day itinerary.

EmmyLou Murray River
Relax on a luxurious boutique river cruise on the Murray River. (Image: Tyson Mayr)

Corowa, Yarrawonga & Lake Mulwala

Corowa, with its modest streetscape dominated by the heritage-listed Corowa Flour Mill (it’s now a whisky distillery and chocolate shop, so well worth the stop for takeaway); Yarrawonga, where Rich Glen Olive Estate produces its award-winning olive oils; and the laid-back holiday town of Lake Mulwala are all worth the time.

Driving the unrelentingly flat landscape, with its golden fields of lucerne and long-dead river red gum trunks forming eerily beautiful sculptures, it’s impossible to know when you are in one state or the other as the road traces the river, which has no inclination to be restricted to being just a line on a map.

Mildura to Goolwa

Beyond Moama/Echuca, the road continues to the Victorian fruit bowl of Mildura, and then over yet another border into South Australia towards Renmark and coming to a conclusion at the mouth of the Murray in Goolwa.

Corowa Whisky & Chocolate
Discover decadence at Corowa Whisky & Chocolate. (Image: Destination NSW)

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Distance:

1045 kilometres, give or take a few clicks.

Words by Celeste Mitchell

19. The Great Barrier Reef Drive

Playlist choice is important for this one, because you’re never going to forget this road trip. With mountains to your left plunging into the Coral Sea to your right, the ocean-hugging tarmac between Palm Cove and the eco-certified Port Douglas is unforgettable road real estate.

Four Mile Beach in Port Douglas.
Enjoy sunset views over Four Mile Beach in Port Douglas. (Image: Tourism Australia)

It’ll only take you about an hour, end to end, but factor in detours to connect with Kuku Yalanji Traditional Owners and plunge into a pool at Mossman Gorge, or sail to Low Isles from Port Douglas to snorkel over coral gardens.

Spot crocodiles as you cross the Daintree River on the car ferry and drive the seam between two World Heritage-listed sites to reach the pinnacle.

Mossman Gorge Great Barrier Reef Drive
The road snakes along azure waters on this unforgettable drive. (Image: Tourism And Events Queensland)

Distance:

140 kilometres

Stay:

At the stunning new-look Silky Oaks Lodge.

Words by Celeste Mitchell

20. Adelaide to Ikara/Flinders Ranges

Outback drives don’t come more elemental than the one to and through South Australia’s majestic Ikara/Flinders Ranges National Park.

From Adelaide it is a 5.5-hour drive ever northwards to reach the park and the magnificence that is Wilpena Pound.

Known as Ikara in the language of the Adnyamathanha people, and meaning ‘meeting place’, the name hints at the deep cultural significance that this awe-inspiring natural wonder offers to those who have dwelt here for thousands of years.

AWilpena Pound Flinders Range
Feel the essence of the outback as you drive through the culturally significant site of Ikara/Wilpena Pound. (Image: Australian Tourism Commission)

Exploring this lunar landscape can involve everything from hikes to scenic flights to tracing Aboriginal Dreaming seams, and should be suitably indulged in over numerous days.

Luckily there are plentiful accommodation options that not only provide a comfortable (even luxurious) base, but also show due respect to the beauty and history of this truly unique landscape, from Wilpena Pound Resort to Rawnsley Homestead to Arkaba.

Eco Villas, Rawnsley Park Station, Flinders Ranges, Australia
Sunset on the Elder Range from the Eco Villas at Rawnsley Park.

Distance:

Roughly 450 kilometres from Adelaide to Ikara/Flinders Ranges National Park.

21. Great Ocean Road, Vic

Download our beautifully illustrated map of the Great Ocean Road and Geelong.

Great Ocean Road Illustrated Map

Illustration: Mike Rossi @micro.grafik

With such icons of nature as the 12 Apostles, the Otways and not to mention the sheer undulating splendour of Victoria’s rugged coastline as it wends its way west of Melbourne to prioritise on your Great Ocean Road itinerary, you might forget that one of Australia’s most famous road trips also makes for a pretty great culinary journey. And it doesn’t take long to get going.

12 Apostles Victoria
The incredible natural beauty of the twelve apostles is world-renown. (Image: 12 Apostles Helicopters)

Lorne

Make a date with MoVida Lorne, where Spanish flavours are brought to life with local produce that befits this seaside town with a hint of the Mediterranean about it.

MoVida Lorne
Treat your taste buds with a trip to MoVida Lorne and experience a unique fusion of Spanish and local flavours.

Wye River

Or meander a further half hour to Wye River, where Wye General Store serves as a dynamic hub for locals and a destination, rather than a pit stop, for road-trippers in itself with its on-trend all-day brunch menu and geographically blessed location.

Wye River General Store
Fuel up at the Wye River General Store (Image: Visit Victoria)

Port Campbell

In colourful Port Campbell, you’ll find Forage on the Foreshore, a heartfelt family-run restaurant that does exactly what it says on the tin; its all-day menu hinges on ingredients that are grown, produced or foraged locally on the Great Ocean Road and surrounding hinterland.

A meal at Forage on the Foreshore can be the perfect bookend to an excellent day’s sightseeing

Warrnambool

Further west in Warrnambool, Pavilion Café & Bar encapsulates Aussie beach life from its lofty waterfront position in an architectural building: deck poised to soak in the sunshine and sea air, great coffee and an ocean- and paddock-to-plate menu.

Port Fairy

Then drop anchor in the historic fishing village of Port Fairy, imbued with the creative spirit of its community: Merrijig is Victoria’s oldest inn, serving up fresh, seasonal fare from its kitchen and quaint accommodation, while the old bluestone Oak & Anchor Hotel has been recently reimagined as boutique accommodation with a bar and restaurant to boot.

Merrijig Inn Port Fairy
The Merrijig Inn, Port Fairy, retains its old-world feel.

Distance:

Lorne to Port Fairy is 232 kilometres.

22. The Big Lap

The iconic Big Lap is the journey taken to circumnavigate the country at its edge, travelling mainly on Highway 1, which clocks in at about 14,500 kilometres and links almost every mainland state and territory capital.

The route

Considered the longest national highway on Earth, it includes the Princes Highway, Eyre Highway, Great Northern Highway, Stuart Highway, Bruce Highway and Pacific Highway, among others.

Nullabor Plain
Hit the open road on the longest national highway on earth. (Image: South Australian Tourism Commission/Adam Bruzzone)

Tasmania is an added extra; start in Launceston, take the A10 from Strahan to Hobart, then the Great Eastern Drive up to Freycinet, before looping back in to where you started (adding 890 kilometres to your total).

Wineglass Bay at sunrise in Freycinet National Park, Tasmania
Wineglass Bay at sunrise in Freycinet National Park, Tasmania. (Image: Lauren Bath)

How long will it take?

As for how long the whole thing will take, you should allow 10 to 12 months to really get the most out of the experience, and even then you probably won’t see everything. Maybe it should be refashioned as the Big Laps.

Stay:

How to pick one location in a year-long odyssey of amazingness? Let’s just say sleeping under the canopy of the southern skies in a tent, van or swag is probably the most uniquely Australian accommodation you can find.

Keep reading our special Top 100 Road Trips in Australia editorial series.
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Meet the makers shaping Ballarat’s new era of creativity

    Margaret Barca Margaret Barca
    Makers, bakers, artists, chefs, crafters – Ballarat and its surrounds are overflowing with creative spirits. All dedicated to keeping traditional skills alive for a city that is humming with artful energy.

    Modern makers: a new generation of artists and artisans

    “Keeping craft alive is a noble cause,” says Jess Cameron-Wootten, a charming and passionate master leathercrafter and cordwainer, who handmakes traditional leather boots and shoes in Ballarat’s old Gun Cotton Goods Store.

    Ballarat was recognised in 2019 as a UNESCO Creative City of Craft and Folk Art, and today it’s a place where craft traditions converge with contemporary needs. Nothing quite captures this convergence as a visit to Wootten , the workshop and store of Jess Cameron-Wootten and his partner Krystina Menegazzo.

    heritage buildings in Ballarat
    Ballarat’s streets are lined with heritage buildings. (Image: Matt Dunne)

    Jess’s father was an artisan bootmaker, or cordwainer. Now Jess and Krys and their small team of artisans continue the tradition, but with a modern spin. The company’s boots and shoes, made completely from scratch, are renowned for their quality and longevity. Wootten also craft shoes, bags, belts, leather aprons, wallets and more.

    Cosy beanies, gloves, alpaca socks, “unbreakable” shoelaces and various other goods – many from local craftspeople and small-scale makers – fill the shop’s shelves. “We’re always happy to support a mate,” says Jess. “People love to see the workshop and where things are made. Our clients care about quality and sustainability,” Krys comments. The company slogan ‘Made for generations’ says it all.

    Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery
    Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery. (Image: Tara Moore)

    For Ruby Pilven, craft is also in the DNA – both her parents were potters and with her latest porcelain ceramics, Ruby’s young daughter has been helping add colour to the glazes. “I grew up watching my parents in the workshop – I’ve always been doing ceramics,” she says, although her Visual Arts degree was in printmaking. That printmaking training comes through particularly in the rich layering of pattern. Her audacious colour, unexpected shapes and sudden pops of 12-carat gold are contemporary, quirky – and joyful.

    You can see Ruby’s handcrafted ceramics, and work by other local and regional artists, at Ross Creek Gallery , a light-filled space surrounded by serene bushland, across from the mudbrick house her parents built in the 1980s. A 10-minute drive from Ballarat, it’s a tangible link to the region’s well-established craft traditions.

    How Ballarat is preserving the past

    artisans making crafts at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat
    The Centre for Rare Arts & Forgotten Trades holds workshops to preserve crafts and skills.

    While tradition is ongoing, there’s a danger that many of these specific type of skills and knowledge are fading as an older generation passes on. Step forward the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades .

    The seven purpose-built studios occupy a fabulous modern building adjacent to Sovereign Hill, with state-of-the-art facilities, enormous windows and landscape views across to Warrenheip and Wadawurrung Country.

    artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat
    Check out artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

    Practising artisans run hands-on workshops. Fancy making your own medieval armour? Or trying your hand at blacksmithing, spinning wool, plaiting leather, weaving cane or craft a knife? Book a class and learn how. “It’s about creating awareness and also sharing knowledge and skills before they are lost,” explains Deborah Klein, the centre manager.

    A city steeped in food and flavours

    Chef José Fernandez preparing American streetfood at Pancho
    Chef José Fernandez creates vibrant South American street food at Pancho. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

    One skill that hasn’t been lost is that of cooking. Ballarat’s burgeoning gastronomy scene runs the gamut from an artisan bakery (the atmospheric 1816 Bakehouse) to cool coffee shops, speakeasy cocktail bars and distilleries to fine-dining venues. But I’m still surprised to find Pancho , José Fernandez’s South American street food restaurant, serving fried cheese tequeños, fiery fish tacos, Argentinian grilled chicken.

    The room is as lively as the food – a whirl of colour filled with gifted and thrifted paintings, photos, tchotchkes (trinkets), plants. There’s a Mexican abuela aesthetic going on here. Even before the music and mezcal kick in, it’s fun. Heads up on the drinks menu – an authentic selection of mezcal, tequila, South American wines and Mexican cerveza.

    a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits, Ballarat
    Enjoy a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

    The spirit is willing, so after lunch we head towards the gold rush-era Ballarat train station and across the line to the old 1860s Goods Shed for Itinerant Spirits . At one end, a massive German copper still looms behind a wall of glass. The fit-out embraces deep olive-green tones, original bluestone walls, steamer trunks as coffee tables, heritage timber floors, oversized lamp shades and cognac-hued modernist leather seating.

    the Itinerant Spirits Distillery & Cocktail Bar, Ballarat
    The distillery operates from an old goods shed. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

    Gallivanter Gin, Vansetter Vodka and Wayfarer Whiskey – the key spirits distilled – star at the bar. The spirits are crafted using grains from the Wimmera Mallee region, and native botanicals foraged in the Grampians. Seasonal cocktails are inspired by local people and places (I loved The Headland, inspired by Sovereign Hill and flavoured with old-fashioned raspberry drops). Sample the spirits, and join a cocktail masterclass or a distillery tour. It’s a seductive setting – you’ll likely find yourself ordering a charcuterie platter or pizza as the evening progresses.

    The Ballarat stay combining history and luxury

    one of the rooms at Hotel Vera, Ballarat
    The rooms at Hotel Vera have a contemporary style. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

    New lives for old buildings keeps history alive. Vera, Ballarat’s boutique five-star hotel, has taken it to the next level: it’s a palimpsest, a subtle layering of early 1900s and 1930s Art Deco architecture with a sleek new wing. There are seven spacious suites, each a dramatically different colour, with designer chairs, blissful bathrooms. High-end pottery and hand-picked artworks imbue the spaces with personality.

    Vera’s intimate, award-winning restaurant, Babae, is subtly theatrical with sheer drapes and gallery lighting, its bespoke timber furniture and brass-edged marble bench setting the stage for food with a sharp regional focus. “We have goat’s cheese from a local supplier, handmade granola from local Vegas & Rose, truffles from nearby Black Cat Truffles, fresh food from our garden, and regional wines,” says joint owner David Cook-Doulton.

    Celebrating the local makers, bakers, growers and producers, and the master chefs who work their magic is all part of the rich tapestry that links Ballarat’s history to its vibrant present.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Getting there

    It’s 90 minutes from Melbourne, either on the Western Freeway, or hop on a V/Line train from Southern Cross Station.

    Staying there

    Hotel Vera is a centrally located Art Deco boutique hotel. Consider Hotel Provincial , which feels like a sleek country house, but with its own restaurant, Lola.

    a contemporary room at Hotel Provincial, Ballarat
    Hotel Provincial has country house vibes.

    Eating there

    dining at Mr Jones, Ballarat
    The table is set at Mr Jones. (Image: Tony Evans/ Visit Victoria)

    Culinary whiz Damien Jones helms Chef’s Hat winner Mr Jones Dining with quiet assurance. His modern Asian food is deceptively simple with deep, intense flavours. Low-key, laid-back ambience, lovely staff, thoughtful wine list.

    Cocktails are definitely a thing in Ballarat. Reynard (fox in French) is foxy indeed, a clubby space with top-notch cocktails and small bites. Grainery Lane is extravagantly OTT with its massive 1880s bar, myriad chandeliers, brass gin still, Asian-inspired food and lavish cocktails.

    dining at Grainery Lane, Ballarat
    Dining at Grainery Lane.

    Playing there

    a laneway filled with artworks in Ballarat
    An artful laneway in the city. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

    Check out local design legend Travis Price’s wall murals in Hop Lane with its colourful canopy of brollies, or in Main Street. The Art Gallery of Ballarat’s off-site Backspace Gallery showcases early-career artists in a stylish, contemporary space. First Nations-owned and run Perridak Arts connects people to place, bringing together art and crafts in this gallery/shop.

    a woman admiring artworks at Perridak Arts Gallery
    Perridak Arts is a First Nations-run gallery. (Image: Tony Evans)

    The wineries of the Pyrenees are close at hand with their welcoming cellar doors and robust reds. Join a behind-the-scenes tour at the Centre for Gold Rush Collections .

    Dalwhinnie Wines in the Pyrenees
    Dalwhinnie Wines in the Pyrenees.

    Don’t forget the giant bluestone Kryal Castle , ‘the land of adventure’, for a little medieval magic, and not just for the kids: get ready for Highland-style feasting, jousting, even overnight stays.