Ken Duncan’s Panorama: Dipsticks of the Outback

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An outraged Ken Duncan prepares to wage war on a growing threat to the pristine nature of our precious outback icons: idiots with spray cans, textas and – sometimes – chainsaws. Dipsticks of the Outback, you have been warned . . .

There’s no better feeling than getting in your car and heading off into the bush for an adventure. When you hit the road it doesn’t matter what you’ve left behind or forgotten to do; you’ll deal with it. The cries of life’s urgency dwindle with the kilometres travelled and you begin to unwind as the view ahead opens to endless horizons. Yes! Going bush is like a magic formula – as the odometer goes up, the stress comes down.

So what is it about the outback that helps us unwind? I believe it’s the space, and in Australia we have plenty of it. That vastness helps you put your life into perspective. It gives you a chance to empty your in-tray. It’s an opportunity to clear your head, breathe fresh air and relax.

We’re blessed to live in such a diverse country and I believe our outback is one of our greatest medicinal treasures. It’s far more than red dirt and desert. It’s hard for me to imagine how travelling through Australia’s open country could not positively change any person. Lately, though, I’ve started to realise that there’s a strange breed of yobbo that feels the outback is there for them to trash and leave their branding on. They don’t allow the bush to wash over them – they want to leave their mark on it instead.

These people feel a need to leave their names emblazoned on anything they can, as though they’re some big explorer whose name will ring out for posterity. They’re like dogs, leaving their scent to mark their territory without realising what dipsticks they are. I call them “dipsticks", as a dipstick is used to check the level of something – and these sorts of people must have very low levels of brain activity. They need to have the paddles of life turned up to full power and applied to their heads.

As you can probably tell, this kind of graffiti is really starting to get under my skin. People (and I use the word loosely) have spray-painted their names on The Devil’s Marbles and all sorts of outback icons. We as Australian travellers need to take a stand, as it’s getting out of hand. This is our backyard. We need to start facing up to the vandals who do these things and tell them they’re dipsticks who need to get a life and show some respect. As a photographer, I’m at a loss as to why people feel the need to deface things. Some recent examples have finally tipped me over the edge. It’s time to really try and bring this epidemic to light and deal with it. We need to turn the tide of this disease.

Near Cameron’s Corner, where the NSW, Qld and SA borders meet, there’s an old yellow double-decker bus that was used as an out-camp for cattle workers, called Jack Camp. Talk about the last bus stop. When I first saw it, there was no graffiti – but over the years dipsticks have felt the need to add their names. While standing there recently, ready to take a new photo of the bus, I was pondering the worst of the fresh graffiti, a scrawled name: “Wishbone". I was thinking, “What would possess someone to do that?" And guess what? I got my answer. At that very moment, a guy pulled up in his Ute with the big aerials, driving lights, bull bar and fluffy dice on the rear-view mirror, and jumped out with his girlfriend. He headed over to the bus and said proudly, “Look, darling, there’s my name. Wishbone. I did that – isn’t it great?" His girlfriend just giggled nervously, not really knowing what to say. They were both right near me and I overheard this profound dialogue. I couldn’t believe I had actually now met the owner of the graffiti.

Wishbone looked over at me, clearly so proud of his ability to spell his name, and announced once more, “That’s me," awaiting my approval.

I like to be as friendly as I can, but I just looked at him and said: “If you did that, then you are a dipstick. Why did you do it?" The poor fellow just looked at me with a vacant stare – obviously not the sharpest tool in the shed.

My latest run-in with graffiti is courtesy of a guy called Gaz, in Victoria’s High Country in Alpine National Park. This is the land of legends, the High Country cattlemen and the Man from Snowy River. It’s part of our history. I was looking for new High Country huts and found Howitt Hut – and there, on the door, a person by the name of Gaz had spray-painted his name. I put Gaz up there as the King of the Dipsticks. What was he thinking with this effort?

 

Hundreds of visitors have written their names on the walls of the hut over the years. They have no right to (unless they were a real part of its history) and it has gotten out of hand. In some places the walls are so crammed with writing that there’s not a spare space to be seen!

 

I then went to look at another place in the same area called Miller Hut. When I got there, again Gaz had beaten me. This time he really outdid himself. He’d used a chainsaw to write his name in letters 30cm high on the old log walls of the hut. I could not believe anyone could be so insensitive. How could he think this was normal behaviour? How many beers did Gaz have to come up with this dumb idea? Where were his friends, who should’ve told him what a dipstick he’d be if he did something as stupid as defacing a part of our Australian history? People like Gaz don’t travel alone; they usually like an audience.

Would you want to invite this guy to your place for dinner? Imagine it: while you’re in the kitchen preparing the meal, Gaz gets out his chainsaw and carves his name in your walls, because he wants to be part of your history. Maybe he could even do it as a parting gesture on your fence. I’d be less than impressed if Gaz left his calling card in my home – and he would certainly be history.

The saddest part is that Gaz is not alone. When I started looking closer, I saw that others had used their chainsaws on the old wood of the High Country huts. There was Max, and Alan, and the list goes on. Shame on you all. I hope someone who knows you sees this article and lets you know you are now in the Dipsticks Hall of Fame. You are dumb enough to add your own names to it. But be real brave next time, dipsticks, and try writing it on a park ranger. That will probably put you on the road to healing.

We all want to enjoy our outback adventure and the great space and freedom we have. We do not want to be reminded of the self-indulgence of humanity. It’s not meant to be “look at me"; it’s meant to be look at the scenery. Yes, it’s my space, it’s yours, it’s our children’s – but it’s not an advertising space for dipsticks.

On a positive note, thank God it’s not too late and the world has so many beautiful people who do the right thing. We all just need to make sure we stand up to the Gazzes and give them a hand to see themselves – even if they do have a chainsaw.

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3 vintage train journeys to step back in time and explore NSW

(Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

From country landscapes to the coast, Vintage Rail Journeys blends the grandeur of the golden age of rail travel with immersive local experiences.

Travelling aboard the historic Southern Aurora train is the ultimate scenic journey through regional NSW. Operated by Vintage Rail Journeys, the former Southern Aurora is a step back in time, from the lovingly restored carriages to the Off Train Experiences that spotlight local history, artisanal crafts and regional producers.

Once the overnight express that ferried passengers between Sydney and Melbourne throughout the 1960s, this train has been revived to its former mid-century glory, from the cabin layouts to the original lettering. Today, the train takes passengers on scenic and historic five-day journeys – starting and ending in Sydney – through three distinct regions of NSW: The Riverina, Golden West and North Coast.

Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train carriage
Be transported into the golden age of travel. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

One of the most magical parts of travelling with Vintage Rail Journeys is waking up on the train. Each night, the train stables at a station so guests can enjoy a restful night’s sleep in stillness, before departing again at dawn. Passengers awake to the gentle motion of the carriage, flicking open the blinds to watch the landscape unfold at sunrise. There is no better way to start the day.

The onboard experience come evening time is just as picturesque. Guests enjoy the all-inclusive food and beverages, nursing cocktails in the Art Deco-inspired lounge carriage or lingering over a three-course dinner in the dining carriage. Outside the window, Eastern grey kangaroos bound across open plains and flocks of cockatoos scatter from the gumtrees. It’s an old-world way of travelling, a slower pace that’s increasingly rare amid the frenzy of modern life. From coastal sojourns to adventures through agrarian landscapes, these are the multi-day Vintage Rail Journeys itineraries transporting guests back in time.

The Riverina

Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train travelling through nsw
Travel through the agricultural heartland of NSW. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

The Riverina is the agricultural heartland of NSW. Over five days, Vintage Rail Journeys takes passengers through the region to experience its celebrated produce, wines and local history. Travelling in a loop through the Central West, guests can sample sweets at the Junee Liquorice & Chocolate Factory, housed inside a former flour mill, tour an olive grove alongside a second-generation olive farmer, and enjoy tastings at family-owned wineries where the grapes are harvested mere metres away.

The Riverina is also a region shaped by passionate local historians. The Fairground Follies museum in Bowral houses one of the world’s largest collections of mechanical music and carnival memorabilia – a riot of colour and nostalgia tucked away where you’d least expect it. Meanwhile, Temora Rural Museum offers a glimpse into the history of everyday life in rural NSW. It’s home to the NSW & ACT Ambulance Museum (yes, a museum within a museum), packed with ambulances that span the past 120 years (including horse-drawn!). And seeing it all aboard a vintage train makes it feel not just like you’re visiting history, but living inside of it.

North Coast

Forest Sky Pier
Take in the views from Forest Sky Pier. (Credit: Destination NSW)

This five-day journey is all about ocean views and slowing down in tune with the rhythm of coastal life. As you make your way north from Sydney, the water is never too far from sight, whether Vintage Rail Journeys is tracing the Gloucester River or travelling alongside sweeping stretches of coastline. You’ll want to sit by a window as the train passes through the Coffs Harbour region – it’s one of the most scenic stretches of the whole journey.

Guests can also disembark at Coffs Harbour to take in the beauty of the Great Dividing Range at the Forest Sky Pier – a surreal lookout point that looks like a runway disappearing into the sky. The train continues onward to Byron Bay, where guests can disembark to explore the iconic beach town at their own pace. And on the return journey to Sydney, keep your eyes peeled for dolphins – they’re known to frequent the Kooragang Wetlands near Newcastle, which guests visit on a lunch cruise on the final day.

Golden West

winery experience in new south wales
Jump off the train for a winery experience. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

Travelling through the Golden West by rail is like stepping into a Frederick McCubbin painting – a nod to the golden era of rail travel. This five-day journey evokes the era of Australian Impressionism, passing through some of the country’s most painterly landscapes while tracing a path through history.

Starting in Sydney, the train makes its way to the Hawkesbury River, where the train crosses a historic rail bridge over the bronze, glassy waters below. Guests disembark here to cruise the brackish inlet aboard a historic postal boat before returning to the train to continue into Gold Rush country. Ahead lie grand heritage towns and historic estates, including the 1870s Abercrombie House in Bathurst.

Special event journeys

meal onboard Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train
Enjoy all-inclusive dining and beverages on the way to special events. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

Regional NSW is home to some truly one-of-a-kind events, and Vintage Rail Journeys offers a memorable way to get there. Planning a trip to the Bathurst Repco 1000? Vintage Rail Journeys’ special itinerary combines accommodation, dining and transport into one seamless experience. Guests take the scenic route to Bathurst, where the train becomes a unique home base for the event, complete with transfers, all-inclusive dining and beverages, and three days of reserved grandstand seating before returning to Sydney Central Station.

For something a little more playful, guests can also join fellow Elvis enthusiasts on a special overnight journey to Parkes for the town’s iconic annual Elvis Festival. It’s a vintage rail journey – with a little added rock ‘n’ roll.

Step back into the golden age of rail travel at vintagerailjourneys.com.au.