Warts and all: Memoirs of an Australian Traveller

hero media

Australian Traveller started on a flight to Broome in 2004. Surprising then, that from the age of 14, all I wanted to do was get the hell out of Australia.

As far as I was concerned, life started once I crossed the Australian border and started exploring ‘the world’.

I was a fresh-faced, long-haired 18-year-old backpacker when I first travelled through Europe and the US. My round-the-world ticket cost $1800 and flew me via Colombo, Sri Lanka, on an Air Lanka jet where the rivets popped every time we took off and landed. But no matter.

I lived by the words of a weighty Let’s Go Europe guide that weighed a ton. It led me to the most flea-bitten, cheap accommodation I could afford. I survived a mate almost dying in Zermatt, a crazy Viennese slum lord, homeboys and bed bugs in NYC and several memory-impairing visits to Amsterdam. I survived my youthful wanderlust, in other words. Just.

I returned from my gap year not knowing that’s what I had done. Back then you merely ducked uni for a year and went travelling. Most people thought it strange and exotic and said things like, “Wow, you’re adventurous, aren’t you?" I just thought it was a better use of my time than studying.

I took a job in publishing with the hope of using it to fund my travel. It worked.

The boss deported me to Singapore for 18 months, then London for two and a half years. I hated Singapore and loved London.

The summer holidays in Italy were glorious – long days in Florence, the Tuscan coast, Rome and even a week-long sojourn in Venice. It was everything I had always wanted. I didn’t want to leave.

Unfortunately, I returned to Australia earlier than I had hoped to (thanks, boss), this time with a de-facto English girlfriend in tow.

To kick off the Australian leg of our relationship, I booked us a holiday in Broome. It was May 2004.

Flying over Roebuck Bay, I looked down and for the first time, saw the amazing aquamarine water lapping up against the pindan soil of Outback Australia. Why had I never been here?

I was embarrassed. I had seen the world and not seen my own country. Worse – I had never wanted to see my own country.

As the Virgin Blue flight bounced onto the tarmac, my brain synapses seemed to be aligning in one heightened moment. An idea lit up my brain, like a child on red cordial: Australian Traveller. A magazine for those who’ve travelled the world but not their own backyard. People like me. I was electrified by the idea.

I pitched the idea to my flatmate Nigel the night we returned from Broome. He asked one question: “is the web address available?"

And so, I became a website owner.

We spent the next six months having a few hundred beers and trying to figure out why people smarter than us had not yet sold their houses to fund the launch of a domestic travel magazine. I could tell you why now. It’s a lot of effort.

In what could be considered a miracle, we launched the magazine on 25 May 2005. We were mates, and now business partners.

On that day the Aussie dollar was buying 76 US cents, John Howard was two years away from Kevin ’07, Australia had held the Ashes for 16 consecutive years and Gwen Stefani’s Hollaback Girl was on top of the charts. Social media was studying journalism at a uni with a decent student bar.

The launch was crazy – we never expected to get death threats. Someone hated us for publishing ‘the 10 ugliest towns in the country’, so much so that they emailed, promising to kill us if they lost a single booking! I was touched they thought we were so powerful.

Readers loved the magazine. Australia as a destination was resting on its post-Olympic and Rugby World Cup bottom whilst Kiwi luxury lodges were the hot topic in antipodean travel.

We were also lucky to have some powerful friends, with former Deputy Prime Minister Tim Fischer being our founding columnist. True to his great passion, almost every destination featured by Tim in two years of columns included a train somewhere.

His role as Chairman of Tourism Australia at the time helped. Having a beer after we published issue #4, Tim was his usual honest self. “Congratulations boys, that’s three more issues than anyone ever expected."

2006 was a breakthrough year. Our first annual 100 – ‘100 Things To Do Before You Die’ is still our best-selling issue of all time.

We followed that up with our first Outback issue, another cracker sale – and the first time I had returned to the countryside that had inspired me into this crazy venture. Shooting the cover on the Mundi Mundi plains, I felt I was living under ‘the big sky’ for the first time.

That year, a lot of relationships started and ended. The English girlfriend decided Australia was a great place to visit but ‘old Blighty’ was probably a better place to live. I didn’t agree but was in love with other things soon enough.

I had never met Aboriginal people who only spoke their native language until I went to Garma. At Cape Arnhem, I was blown away and it dawned on me that most people’s mysticism is the same.

My new girlfriend didn’t like that I was out of contact for the whole 10 days, however. We moved in together when I got back.

For me, qualia started a new era in Australian travel, the first world-class luxury lodge to take it to the Kiwis… And me. I took my now live-in girlfriend there eight weeks after the opening.

That stay wasn’t all smooth sailing. The activities guys had dropped us off for a romantic picnic on our own beach but forgot to bring the picnic, the umbrella or water… let alone any champagne. The staff arrived just when we started to think panic would be the only solution.

My live-in girlfriend cried when we left qualia. (“I’ll never ever get to stay at a place like this again.") We went back for five nights on our honeymoon. She didn’t cry when we left that time – we were headed for Longitude 131.

True to my reformed travelling self, our entire honeymoon was spent in Australia.

Since that moment, Luxury Lodges of Australia have become all the rage. I took my wife to Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa the day after our first son was officially conceived via IVF. She declared it the greatest bed she has ever slept on. “Even better than qualia."

Now when I meet people and they ask, “How long have you been at Australian Traveller?" I only ever say, ‘from the beginning’.

They immediately want to know my favourite place. The answer is always the same. “Depends."

It depends on what you like, what you want and how you like to travel – for there is only one certainty, as far as I can see. That around every corner I’ll be surprised and delighted by yet another piece of this amazing country.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

Want to see more stories from Australian Traveller in your Google search results?

  1. Click here to set Australian Traveller as a preferred source.
  2. Tick the box next to "Australian Traveller". That's it.
Quentin Long
Quentin Long is the Co-Founder and Managing Director of Australian Traveller Media. Quentin is a sought-after travel media commentator. He is Australia’s most trusted source for travel news and insights, having held weekly radio segments across the country since 2006, and regularly appearing on Channel 9’s Today and A Current Affair programs from 2010. Don't ask him his favourite travel experience as that's like asking him to choose a favourite child. However he does say that Garma Festival is the one travel experience that changed him the most.
View profile and articles
hero media

From fresh seafood to native flavours: discover the best hotel restaurants around Australia

(Credit: Hilton Surfers Paradise Hotel & Residences)

    Dilvin Yasa Dilvin Yasa
    Feeling peckish? These hotel restaurants prove the best weekend escapes are ones planned around noshing in-house.

    Forget club sandwiches and lobby house wine; the folks at Hilton clearly missed the memo that stated that the dining experience should be a business trip afterthought.

    Instead, they’re leading with their core belief that incredible dining should be the cornerstone of every travel experience: the long breakfasts with usually good flat whites, the golden hour cocktails, and the local flavours you’ll talk about long after you’ve returned home.

    The result? We’ll let the following Hilton hotel restaurants do the talking.

    1. Together & Co, Busselton

    Together & Co, Hilton Garden Inn Busselton’s on-site restaurant.
    Sit down to the family-friendly Together & Co.

    Nothing pairs better with the iconic Busselton Jetty and the beaches of Geographe Bay (both mere moments away) than the relaxed coastal charm of Together & Co, Hilton Garden Inn Busselton’s on-site restaurant.

    Offering a relaxed, light-filled and family-friendly atmosphere with an open kitchen, Together & Co somehow appears unfussy on the surface, yet maintains a myopic focus on showcasing the best of local ingredients (regulars swear by the flame-grilled octopus, as well as their perfectly cooked steaks).

    Keen to stay put for a drink? Together & Co Bar offers an extensive wine list, cold beer on tap, a crafted cocktail selection and a bar bites menu.

    2. Cafe Sunrise, Cairns

    Hilton Cairns Cafe Sunrise
    Start the day with breakfast favourites.

    At Hilton Cairns, dining and drinking options are plentiful – even without the Executive Lounge (open to Executive Room and Executive Spa Room guests who can enjoy continental breakfast, light refreshments and a nightly drinks and canape experience).

    Cafe Sunrise starts the day with breakfast favourites, from fluffy pancakes to an omelette station, while Edge Terrace is made for a wind-down cocktail. At Gin Social, shared plates and succulent mains showcase fresh produce, and poolside dining comes with a playful bonus: call the ‘Popsicle Hotline’ for a complimentary fruit ice-block.

    3. The Vine Room, Cairns

    DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Cairns, the vine room
    Enjoy Mediterranean-inspired eats by the pool.

    In DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Cairns, Atrium Restaurant’s breakfast buffet offers more than 100 options, but don’t check out before dining at The Vine Room, a Mediterranean-inspired restaurant and bar pairing Tropical North Queensland produce with southern European flavours. A herby prawn risotto overlooking the Coral Sea? Yes please. Just be sure to leave room for Le Petit Chef, an immersive 3D dinner theatre experience where a tiny animated chef leads a culinary adventure to remember.

    4. PepperBerry Restaurant, Darwin

    Hilton Darwin Pepperberry
    Taste an award-winning menu, shaped by First Nations culture and residents.

    Shaped by First Nations culture and residents from over 100 nationalities, Darwin’s dining scene has more character than most. It’s something to keep in mind as you consider Hilton’s trio of perfectly located properties (and its onsite restaurants).

    At Hilton Darwin, PepperBerry Restaurant is the flagship, an award-winning upscale establishment where modern Australian cuisine is sharpened with native bush spices and superfresh NT produce. The multi-sensory dining experience that is Le Petit Chef is available here too, as is the option to enjoy lighter meals and cocktails at Palm Court Bar & Lounge, a premier spot favoured by locals.

    5. Catch Restaurant, Surfers Paradise

    Hilton Surfers Paradise Hotel & Residences Catch restaurant table spread
    Lean into the Gold Coast lifestyle at Catch Restaurant.

    When you’re staying in a property located in the heart of Surfers Paradise, you’ll want to make sure you’ve got stamina for all the nearby attractions and happily, Hilton Surfers Paradise Hotel & Residences has you covered with some stellar options.

    Start the day with breakfast at Catch Restaurant, the hotel’s signature eatery, which is inspired by the vibrant Gold Coast lifestyle. Make a reservation for dinner (Wednesday to Saturday nights only), where the focus is on sustainably sourced seafood, steaks and pasta.

    Elsewhere, Ms Margot’s Bar & Eats, a coastal-inspired restaurant facing the buzzing Orchid Avenue strip, remains a crowd favourite thanks to its tapas menu (think coconut king prawns and fried honey haloumi bites), flatbreads and signature cocktails, but why not also treat yourself to its High Tea offering?

    6. Saltbush, Alice Springs

    saltbush restaurant alice springs

    Taste native bush flavours at Saltbush.

    Set against a red desert backdrop, DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Alice Springs feels like a palm-fringed oasis, but it’s the property’s dining offerings which anchor you firmly in the outback.

    Saltbush, where buffet breakfasts roll into contemporary Australian lunches and dinners incorporating native bush flavours, remains a popular choice. The restaurant’s signature dishes include outback tenderloin koftas, lemon myrtle pannacotta and a classic outback pie made with kangaroo meat.

    7. Hanuman Restaurant, Alice Springs

    Experience a foodie weekend with a flatlay of food from Hanuman.
    Experience award-winning pan-Asian cuisine. (Image: Tourism NT)

    For an upscale dining experience, award-winning Hanuman Restaurant isn’t to be missed.

    Also part of DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel Alice Springs and located on the banks of the Todd River, expect a pan-Asian menu combining Thai, Indian and Nonya (Straits Chinese) cuisines. And why not finish up with a post-meal drink or snack at The Deck Bar & Eatery, a relaxed outdoor space where cocktails are served under a canopy of stars?

    Start planning a foodie escape at hilton.com.