Steve Irwin to RM Williams: the most memorable outback characters

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In the red dusty expanse, single-minded, eccentric and sometimes utterly insane personalities thrive. And without question it’s the people who have formed a special bond with the outback that make it so wonderful and unique. Sol Walkling looks at just a few of the amazing people out there who have made the outback what it is today.

Ian Conway

Those born into the seemingly inhospitable wilderness hundreds of kilometres from what most people would consider civilisation consider themselves lucky and rarely leave the place. Some, like Ian Conway, have become modern-day pioneers. The son of an Arunta woman and a Kidman boss drover, Ian grew up on Angas Downs station, three hours southwest of Alice Springs. As a boy, he learned everything there was to know about camels from his Aboriginal grandmother – and transformed that traditional knowledge into his daily bread when he decided to invite tourists in for a cuppa and some bush tucker at his Kings Creek homestead to share his love for the land.

 

Today, the outback camel station and eco lodge owner is the leading exporter of camels in Australia (he also co-founded the Camel Industry Association), plays host to regular documentary film crews as well as tourists and has even retraced Ernest Giles’ steps on his favourite camel, Atwa. It mightn’t seem like a traditional life, but Ian considers himself a keeper of the land – here to look after it until he’s gone – like those before him.

Ian Conway at Kings Canyon
Ian Conway at Kings Canyon. (Image: Tourism NT)

Robyn Davidson

Tracks, A Woman’s Solo Trek Across 1700 Miles of Australian Outback, is the title of a travelogue by this adventuress extraordinaire, whose story also involves camels. Her preparations and taming of the temperamental animals took two years, not counting the countless hours spent looking for them every morning before each day’s ride. Robyn set out on her dangerous and crazy-sounding journey in 1977 practically by herself – dog and four camels aside – to learn about the desert and its traditional owners. She came back an infamous hero who’d walked at times clothed in nothing but her own skin.

Solo trekker Robyn Davidson
Solo trekker Robyn Davidson and Andrew Harper on the Western Simpson Desert Trek. (Image: Camel Tracks)

Burke and Wills

In 1860, Robert O’Hara Burke and William John Wills famously attempted to cross Australia from Melbourne to the Gulf of Carpentaria in order to become the first Europeans to open up the uncharted territory at the heart of Australia. Despite being pretty inexperienced bushmen, they actually completed the north-south part of the journey with their 18-strong team, before perishing on the return journey in June 1861 at Coopers Creek.

 

Although seven people died and only John King, who was in charge of the camels, made it all the way back to Melbourne, the expedition did serve to increase our knowledge of central Australia – and at least disproved once and for all the fanciful notion of an inland sea.

Burke and Wills at the Dig Tree
Burke and Wills at the Dig Tree, painted by Sir John Campbell Longstaff in the late 1800s.

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Steve Irwin

A more recent tragic hero’s death in Queensland moved the world, not just Australia. Our beloved Crocodile Hunter, conservationist and self-proclaimed Wildlife Warrior’s rare gift with animals and his larger than life personality earned him worldwide recognition. With his “Crikey" catchcry, broad smile and sparkling eyes, he captured TV audiences and sparked an interest in his conservationist message.

 

He died in 2006 after a stingray’s spine pierced his chest. (Interestingly, a series of suspected revenge attacks on stingrays along the Qld coast soon followed, with several found with their spine-tails severed.)

 

Steve’s daughter, Bindi, who seems to have inherited Dad’s sunny personality, wowed audiences at his memorial service at Australia Zoo, the family’s home, when she gave a speech in front of more than 5000 people, beginning with the words: “My Daddy was my hero." Bindi has since become a celebrity in her own right – just as her father had predicted – with her own TV show, DVD, appearances on US chat shows, and as the youngest ever front-page model for New Idea in 2006. She is also a zookeeper at Australia Zoo and continues her father’s conservation work.

The one and only Steve Irwin, RIP. Image by Paul Williams, www.sardrabbit.com

RM Williams

To survive in the outback it helps to be a jack-of-all-trades. Reginald Murray Williams was born over a century ago, in May 1908, and it was during one of his first jobs in WA – helping to establish a mission for Aboriginals – that he found the inspiration for his life: the Indigenous Australians’ mastery over their environment.

 

His job descriptions were as varied as the outback is vast, ranging from horse breeder to miner to stonemason, author and entrepreneur. If it hadn’t been for a chance encounter with a man known as Dollar Mick, who knew how to make pack saddles, RM would’ve likely stayed a very successful (but far lesser-known) well-sinker.

 

Together with Dollar, he perfected the art of boot making using only a single piece of leather, before opening a workshop in Adelaide. His skills must have been rather extraordinary as his first overseas order came from no less than the King of Nepal. In combination with a successful gold mining venture at Tennant Creek, his business quickly turned RM into a multi-millionaire. He must have been quite a sight when he staggered down the street to the bank with bags of gold, shotgun on each side. He passed away in 2003, aged 95, as the nation mourned the end of an era.

The quintessential outback hero, Reginald Murray Williams
The quintessential outback hero, Reginald Murray Williams. (Image: National Archives of Australia)

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John Flynn

Born two weeks after Ned Kelly was hung, the life of John Flynn couldn’t have been more different from the famed outlaw’s. Trained as a minister, Reverend Flynn’s defining moment was his arrival in outback Beltana, SA, in 1911. Moved by the hardship of life in the bush, in particular the lack of medical help, his moving report to the Presbyterian Church the following year led to his appointment as head of its “bush department", the Australian Inland Mission.

 

When Flynn started his work, only two doctors served a total area of 1,8000,000km2, using bush hospitals, hostels and ministers-cum-boundary riders on camel or horseback. Faced with the problematic vast distances in the outback, Flynn’s solution came in the form of a letter from Lieutenant Clifford Peel, a young Victorian medical student with an interest in aviation.

 

Even though radios and planes were very much in their infancy in 1917, Peel’s letter impressed the reverend and was the first step towards the establishment of the Royal Flying Doctors Service, and today more than 20 bases span the length and breadth of Australia.

The Reverend John Flynn
The Reverend John Flynn. (Image: Royal Flying Doctors Service)
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Two immersive art experiences are coming to this Vic town in spring

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    In recent years, Ballarat has emerged as one of Victoria’s most dynamic and daring cities. And, this spring, two unexpected creative showcases will take over the town.

    No matter the season, it’s always a good time to visit Ballarat – but spring might be the most ideal. The weather is warmer, the skies are clearer, the flowers across its botanical landscapes are in bloom. And events in Ballarat transform the city into a playground of creativity.

    This year, Ballarat will welcome both new and returning artistic events, best paired with a jaunt through the city’s eclectic array of things to eat, drink and explore. Here’s how to spend a spring weekend in this cool cultural hub.

    The events

    Two of the most exciting events hitting Ballarat this spring are the 2025 Ballarat International Foto Biennale and the inaugural edition of Sunnyside, a captivating and immersive art extravaganza.

    Ballarat International Foto Biennale

    Ballarat International Foto Biennale, events in Ballarat
    Discover powerful stories through the lens at Ballarat International Foto Biennale. (Image: Astrid Mulder)

    Whether you’re a photography enthusiast or simply curious, the Ballarat International Foto Biennale is a must. The event permeates the entire city, with works by over 360 local and international photographers adorning over 100 buildings, businesses, streets and public spaces.

    This year marks the 11th chapter and will centre on ‘Lifeforce’ – a theme that’s all about humanity and connection. Among the many talents on show, the headline artist is Campbell Addy, a British-Ghanaian creative who explores roots and identity. Be sure to visit before it ends in 2025 on 19 October.

    Sunnyside

    The colourful entrance to Sunnyside, one of the newest highlights of Events in Ballarat.
    Explore 17 days of bold art at Sunnyside. (Image: Nice To Meet You Again, Morag Myerscough 2023. Photographer: Gareth Gardner)

    Sunnyside is making its debut this year, introducing a brand-new celebration of colour, creativity and community to Ballarat. The 17-day celebration, from 6 to 23 November, will feature immersive installations and experiences, talks, a vibrant opening night gala, and workshops covering everything from crochet to neon block printing.

    Internationally acclaimed London-based artist Morag Myerscough will lead the celebration and convert Ballarat’s historic Mining Exchange – a gold rush era trading hall – and the city’s streets into a multi-sensory art spectacle.

    While you’re there

    Don’t miss out on everything else Ballarat has to offer. Here’s where to eat, drink, see and stay in the city.

    Where to eat

    Vibrant Latin American dishes at Pancho, adding flavour to Events in Ballarat.
    Savour bold Latin American dishes at Pancho. (Image: Einwick)

    For daytime dining, you’re spoiled for choice. Johnny Alloo does contemporary cafe fare in a warm and inviting space, while Hydrant Food Hall is a popular pick for breakfast and lunch classics. Eclectic Tastes makes seasonal dishes that incorporate plenty of local produce, giving you a great opportunity to taste the region’s flavours.

    At night, head to Roy Hammond for delicious cocktails and contemporary Asian-inspired eats or Pancho for vibrant (and very good) Latin American food in fun surrounds. At Hop Temple, you’ll find an incredible selection of craft beers (more than 200, to be exact) and punchy pub fare, or you can head slightly out of town for tasty bistro classics at the historic and character-filled Buninyong Hotel .

    In the mood for something fancy? Visit one of Ballarat’s many hatted restaurants, like Babae (produce-driven fine dining inspired by regional Victoria), Mr Jones (modern Asian by a chef with a Michelin pedigree) and Underbar (an ultra-exclusive spot doing ultra-refined tasting menus).

    Where to drink

    Food and wine tastings at Blue Pyrenees Estate, a refined experience beyond Events in Ballarat.
    Relax over wine at Blue Pyrenees Estate. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    No matter your poison, you’ll find a venue to suit in Ballarat. Aunty Jacks is a local institution, serving a generous line-up of beers made in the on-site brewery. Renard is perfect for a pre-dinner drink or nightcap, with a menu that spans creative signature cocktails, locally produced wines and Australian spirits.

    Try some of Ballarat’s finest creations at one of its many boutique distilleries, including Grainery Lane and Itinerant Spirits. The former specialises in gin and vodka, while the latter offers gin, vodka and craft whiskey. Buy a bottle from either as a memento of your trip.

    You can also venture a little further afield to one of the area’s renowned wineries and cellar doors. There are 25 scattered around the Pyrenees (Ballarat’s very own surrounding wine region), including Dalwhinnie, Summerfield and Blue Pyrenees Estate. Eastern Peake – a family-owned winery led by Young Gun of Wine 2025, Owen Latta – is also a must-visit.

    What to see

    A koala eating eucalyptus leaves at Ballarat Wildlife Park.
    Meet a koala at Ballarat Wildlife Park. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    If you’ve got time to spare after the thrill of the spring festivities, there’s lots to see and do. More art can be found in the city’s streets and laneways, with local street artists transforming the walls with impressive murals and installations.

    Ballarat is equally renowned for its heritage architecture, much of which flourished during the gold rush. Notable buildings include Ballarat Town Hall, Her Majesty’s Theatre and Craig’s Royal Hotel, all located centrally and within walking distance of one another.

    Travelling with kids? Head to Sovereign Hill for a living-history adventure or Ballarat Wildlife Park to meet koalas, reptiles and free-roaming kangaroos.

    Where to stay

    An elegant suite at Hotel Vera, offering boutique comfort.
    Enjoy all-out luxury at Hotel Vera. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    If you’re venturing to the city by train and want to stay somewhere central, Quest Ballarat Station is an excellent pick. The modern serviced apartments are situated just 250m from the station and a short stroll from downtown Ballarat, making coming, going and exploring the city incredibly easy. There’s also an on-site gym, barbecue area and accessible rooms available.

    For a touch of French luxe in regional Victoria, The Provincial Hotel is a standout choice, with gorgeously appointed rooms and suites in a restored heritage-listed building. The hotel is also conveniently located on Lydiard Street, which is lined with grand historic architecture.

    If you’re after something truly luxe, book a few nights at Hotel Vera. The exclusive collection of only seven suites presents all-out opulence: think lush linens, designer furniture, works by notable artists and gilded touches. It also happens to house fine-dining favourite Babae, making it an optimal stay if you’re keen to try the restaurant.

    Getting there

    aerial of hop lane in ballarat
    Turn your Ballarat visit into a memorable weekend. (Image: Einwick)

    One of the best things about Ballarat is its proximity to Melbourne. It’s only 90 minutes away by car – an easy journey down the Western Freeway – or can be easily reached by rail. The train from Southern Cross to Ballarat Station takes less than 90 minutes and drops you right in the centre of town.

    Start planning your stay at visitballarat.com.au.