The Motorcycle Diaries: Part 1

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Zoe Naylor has taken her first tottering steps in a lifelong love affair with a motorcycle. So if you’ve been tempted by the thrill of the ride and the wind in your hair, hop on and hold tight.

A year ago, if you’d told me that today I’d be riding my very own Ducati, I wouldn’t have believed you. I grew up peppered with horror stories about terrible accidents that scared me off ever entertaining the idea seriously. But later in life and living in Bondi, my partner at the time decided he wanted a scooter to make travel to and from work simpler. So we decided, as a romantic couple thing, to get our licences together.

 

Suddenly my mind was opened up to the potential for new and exciting travel possibilities. I fantasised about becoming the next Mr and Mrs Smith, riding our matching BMWs through the Adelaide Hills to the Barossa, discovering Tasmania with the wind flying through our hair, or cruising the Great Ocean Road on a Harley.

 

We completed our learners together, then bought a Vespa 250 GTSie. My partner rode to work every day but I was too scared by the traffic and ended up not riding the scooter at all. My licence lay dormant for the best part of a year.

 

Then it came time for P-plates. I was no longer seeing the same guy and had three months to go before my Ls expired. It seemed a waste to let the whole thing slide, so I decided to complete the post-learner course and get some private tuition to help build confidence. It was the best thing I ever did. Using the school’s Honda 250 I sat my Ps – one of the most nerve-racking experiences I’ve endured in a long time – and passed.

 

Then I finally took the scooter out. But, since I’d now had a taste of riding a manual, this scooter nonsense just wasn’t going to cut it. I found myself craving the feeling of a more powerful bike hugging the road. It was time for an upgrade.

 

As a woman with few motorcycling friends, I had no idea where to start when it came to choosing a bike. I was steered towards a copy of the Australian Road Rider Bike Buyers Guide, which lists every bike available in the marketplace. I figured if I at least narrowed down the bikes I liked the look of, even if I had no idea about the specs, it would be a step in the right direction.

 

During these early stages I looked at Harleys, Triumphs and Ducatis. I loved the retro look of the Harleys, but figured if I was going to embark on a lifelong motorcycle journey, perhaps that was a bike I could grow into after I’d tried some sportier styles.

 

Then I went to Fraser Motorcycles in Concord. And this is where my life changed. Not since Cosmopolitan Shoes in Double Bay have I fallen in love with a store so deeply. Ladies, I never knew shopping in a motorcycle store could be so much fun! They had the full range of Harleys and Ducatis, which made early comparisons that much easier. Once I settled on Ducati, the next issue was which one? Obviously there was no point putting me straight on an 1198, even though I’m in love with that bike, so taking all the elements of style, safety, power and feel into account, I felt drawn to the pearl Monster 696 as the bike for me.

 

I’m no Casey Stoner (yet). I’m a safe, cautious Ducati rider, if there is such a thing.

 

When the time came to collect my new bike (yeeaahhhhh), I still felt a little nervous about facing Parramatta Rd in peak hour but the team at Frasers were more than happy to deliver it to my home. I’ve never been more excited. It was the best present I ever gave to myself and I now fully appreciate why victims of midlife crises often splash out on a bike.

 

I began with slow, steady rides around Centennial Park, which led to rides around Queens Park, then to Bondi and the city until finally I rode out to Oran Park Raceway and was able to let her rip. It was scary, exhilarating and everything in between; just what I needed to build my courage in traffic and advance to the next stage of my riding. You know you’re alive when you’re burning down the M5 on a Ducati with a semitrailer sitting right next to you. I don’t think I felt the fear, nor the adrenalin, subside the entire way there.

 

Now I’m at the stage where I honestly feel like I’m having a love affair . . . with my motorcycle. I often go down to the garage just to look at it (sad, I know) and every time I start it up and hear that whirrrr of the Ducati engine I can’t wipe the smile off my face.

 

As I write this, I’m in Hervey Bay shooting a film called The Reef and I miss my bike so much that I’m having it trucked up here. So if you’re thinking about getting a motorcycle, what are you waiting for? It has transformed my experience of being on the road; it’s cheap to run, easier to park and so much fun.

 

I finally understand the immense feeling of freedom a motorcycle gives you. I’m no Casey Stoner (yet). I’m a safe, cautious Ducati rider, if there is such a thing. I’m not sure if long trips and spending hours on the bike are my thing, but I definitely look forward to discovering parts of Australia on a motorcycle. Take the plunge, people, and I look forward to seeing you on the road very soon.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

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The top 10 events you don’t want to miss in Victoria in 2026

    Lara Picone Lara Picone
    From cycling and comedy to boating and begonia appreciation, there’s an event in regional Victoria that’s sure to have you circling dates on your calendar.

    1. Festival of Sails

    the Melbourne to Geelong passage race, Festival of Sails 2025
    The Melbourne to Geelong passage race will be held for its 183rd year. (Image: Salty Dingo)

    When: 24–26 January
    Where: Melbourne and Geelong

    This five-day regatta of sailing and onshore entertainment at Geelong’s waterfront includes Australia’s oldest sporting event, the Melbourne to Geelong passage race which, in 2026, will be held for its 183rd year. But you don’t have to be a yachtie, sailor or boat-enthusiast to enjoy the nautical excitement; there’s also a three-day line-up of entertainment, food and live music, including the anchoring of tall ships – ever a firm family favourite.

    2. Cadel Evans Great Ocean Road Race

    cyclists during the Cadel Evans Great Ocean Road Race
    Catch the best cyclists as they wind through Victoria’s coastal towns. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    When: 31 January – 1 February
    Where: The Bellarine Peninsula

    Meandering (at pace) along the Bellarine Peninsula and the Surf Coast is this annual cycling event that welcomes everyone from families to serious athletes. Since its beginnings in 2015, the race has become a huge hit with spectators flocking along to cheer on Lycra-clad competitors. Starting and finishing in Geelong’s Velo Village, this is the hub of the non-race activity with food and drink, roaming performers, lawn games and face painting.

    3. Riverboats Music Festival

    the performers at Riverboats Music Festival, Murray River
    The annual music festival is staged under majestic red gums by the Murray River.

    When: 13–15 February
    Where: Echuca–Moama

    Get along to bop and sway under the canopy of red gums at this annual music festival . Hosted by the twin towns of Echuca–Moama, the stage is set for Murray River-adjacent revelling as historic paddlesteamers peacefully chug alongside the event. As well as music, there’s dancing, food trucks and plenty of atmosphere to absorb.

    4. Neerim ArtsFest

    the Neerim ArtsFest south sculptures
    Admire stunning works at Neerim ArtsFest. (Image: Nicky Cawood)

    When: 28 February – 15 March
    Where: Gippsland

    This biennial Gippsland festival celebrates sculptural artists with an esteemed award in two categories, large outdoor and small indoor. The public is invited to enjoy the works over the exhibition period as they’re placed throughout Neerim South and surrounding venues. For 2026, the theme ‘The Spirit Soars’ leads artists to create stunning pieces that explore the expression of freedom in a thrilling visual capacity.

    5. ChillOut Festival

    a street parade during the LGBTQIA+ ChillOut Festival
    Think colourful street parades and burlesque performances.

    When: 5–9 March
    Where: Daylesford

    Pride in the country has been cheered on every March in Daylesford since 1997 with the riotous annual LGBTQIA+ ChillOut Festival . This colourful regional spectacle is an inclusive celebration of diversity that plays out across a vibrant parade, burlesque performances, a bush dance and a carnival. Get bedazzled, find a wig and stick on the false eyelashes for this fun party.

    6. Port Fairy Folk Festival

    Missy Higgins at the Port Fairy Folk Festival
    Celebrate folk music at the Port Fairy Folk Festival. (Image: Lucinda Goodwin)

    When: 6–9 March
    Where: Port Fairy

    In 2026, this beloved festival will be one year shy of its 50th anniversary. From folk fans to festival-lovers, this long-running event brings plenty of good vibes to guarantee an incredible experience. While music is at the heart of the festival, there’s also a range of workshops, exhibitions and family entertainment across dance, film and folk art. For its 49th year, the line-up so far includes Blair Dunlop, Elephant Sessions, and the musical duo Felicity Urquhart and Josh Cunningham.

    7. The Ballarat Begonia Festival

    a woman admiring flowers at The Ballarat Begonia Festival
    Gasp at delicate blooms at The Ballarat Begonia Festival.

    When: 7–9 March
    Where: Ballarat

    In bloom since 1953, this horticultural event places a collection of rare begonias at the centre of festivities, honouring the flower’s presence in Ballarat since the 1800s. During its history, the event has been visited by Queen Elizabeth II and, in 2015, it featured the launch of the largest outdoor Lego flower. Apart from a display of around 500 species of the flower of the moment, there’s also a begonia parade, entertainment, live music, food and presentations.

    8. The Bendigo Easter Festival

    Chinese dragon Dai Gum Loong dance at The Bendigo Easter Festival
    The majestic Chinese dragon Dai Gum Loong dance is an annual tradition at The Bendigo Easter Festival.

    When: 3–6 April
    Where: Bendigo

    Held in the city’s Rosalind Park, the annual Easter Festival has been a highlight of Bendigo’s calendar of events since 1871. A carnival of colourful activity, the festival welcomes everyone and rolls out the good times with everything from a Good Friday Easter egg hunt to live music and performances, a Rotary market and Gala Parade. Don’t miss the world’s longest imperial dragon rhythmically roaming the historic streets as part of the Easter Sunday festivities.

    9. Grape Escape

    a glass of wine at the Grampians Grape Escape
    Enjoy a wine tasting experience. (Image: Anthony Evans Photography)

    When: 1–3 May
    Where: The Grampians

    Backdropped by gorgeous Grampians/Gariwerd National Park, this much-loved bacchanalian-inspired festival of food, wine and music is a high-priority for gourmands. Held at Halls Gap Reserve, a Tasting Ticket includes a tumbler that unlocks free wine, beer and cider tastings and, if you are partaking, there’s a shuttle bus to get you back to your digs afterwards. Be sure to book your accommodation early for this one – its popularity is undisputed.

    10. Comedy in the Vines

    Comedy in the Vines at Cherryhill Orchards
    Get the good times rolling at Cherryhill Orchards. (Image: Saige Prime)

    When: 24–26 October
    Where: Yarra Valley

    The premise of Yarra Valley’s Comedy in the Vines , held at Cherryhill Orchards, is that wine and laughs pair well. Few arguments can be made, so get along this month (or next year), to have a giggle and a gamay. This year, taking the stage is the likes of Merrick Watts, Tommy Little, Ray O’Leary and Takashi Wakasugi. There are also masterclasses, a riesling and oyster shot bar, and plenty of food and music between gigs.