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What’s on around Australia in December 2025

Farewell 2025 at these epic December events around Australia.

December always sneaks up on me. One minute it’s August, the next I’m juggling work wrap-ups and half-finished Christmas shopping. It’s the kind of delicious chaos that comes with the end of another year – when you’re tying a bow on the past 12 months with one hand and cracking open a fresh chapter with the other.

If you’re also running on equal parts exhaustion and excitement, consider this your cheat sheet to squeezing the most joy out of the year’s most chaotic month. From music festivals and art exhibitions to Christmas markets and NYE celebrations, there are so many ways to round out the year with a bang. So without further ado – let’s wrap up the year, shall we?

Taylah’s top picks of the month:

  • Best foodie event: Taste of Summer, Hobart, Tas (27 December – 3 January)
  • Best music event: Woodford Folk Fest, Moreton Bay, Qld (27 December – 1 January)
  • Best cultural event: Boxing Day Ashes, Melbourne, Vic (26–30 December)
  • Best outdoor event: Blooms & Bubbles, Margaret River, WA (6 December)
  • Best arts event: 5th Indigenous Art Triennial: After the Rain, Canberra, ACT (from 6 December)

Upcoming events to keep on your radar:

  • Elvis Festival, Parkes, NSW (7–11 January)
  • Australian Open, Melbourne, Vic (12 January – 1 February)
  • NATSIAA exhibition, Darwin, NT (until 26 January)
  • Wooden Boat Festival, Hobart, Tas (7–10 February)
  • Mardi Gras, Sydney, NSW (13 February – 1 March)

What’s on in NSW in December

Ron Mueck: Encounter
Sydney
From 6 December

Ron Mueck 'Couple Under an Umbrella' 2013, mixed media, 275 x 455 x 330 cm,Museum Voorlinden collection © Ron Mueck, courtesy Thaddaeus Ropac Gallery, photo: Antoine van Kaam
Ron Mueck ‘Couple Under an Umbrella’ 2013, mixed media, Museum Voorlinden collection © Ron Mueck, Thaddaeus Ropac Gallery. (Image: Antoine van Kaam)

Held at the iconic Art Gallery of NSW, this Sydney-exclusive is artist Ron Mueck’s largest exhibition in over a decade on home soil. Familiar works exploring birth, death, alienation and connection will sit alongside new commissions like Havoc, described as enigmatic and menacing.

It’s an exciting moment among the city’s art scene, as many of the intricate sculptures by the Australian-born, UK-based artist have never been seen before in Australia. Opening at the beginning of December, Ron Mueck: Encounter will be on display until 12 April next year.

Christmas Lights Spectacular
Hunter Valley
Throughout December

Christmas Lights Spectacular in Hunter Valley, NSW
The Hunter Valley Gardens transform into a Christmas wonderland.

Open every day (except Christmas) from mid-November to late-January, the Christmas Lights Spectacular at Hunter Valley Gardens is the region’s most festive affair. Millions of twinkling displays converge to create the largest Christmas display in the southern hemisphere, so you don’t want to miss out!

The annual extravaganza spans over three hectares, with glowing pathways leading you to themed exhibits at every turn. Alongside illuminated installations, guests can enjoy rides, food stalls, live entertainment, roving performers and even a visit from Santa.

Jolly Night Market
Sydney
11–21 December

Jolly Night Market in Sydney, NSW
Australia’s biggest Christmas-themed night market is returning to Sydney.

Australia’s biggest Christmas-themed night market is decking the halls of Circular Quay again this year, with over 120 stalls transforming the Sydney precinct into a festive wonderland. Running across 11 days, the Jolly Night Market is one of the best Christmas market activations in the country.

This year, attendees can browse stalls touting everything from unique Christmas decorations and handmade gifts to bespoke homewares and First Nations art. The food and beverage program is nothing to blink at either, with plenty of sweet and savoury treats up for grabs.

Rolling Sets
Central Coast
6 December

Nothing beats a good summer festival, and this one is up there with some of the best. Hosted on NSW’s picturesque Central Coast, Rolling Sets pairs live music with good vibes and great times (plus a delicious curation of food trucks, of course).

This year’s musical line-up is sure to get you excited, with acts like Hilltop Hoods, Spacey Jane, The Jungle Giants and Skeggs all taking the stage by storm. The festival will take over Memorial Park for one day only, with plenty of nearby beaches offering the perfect post-boogie cool down.

Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race
Sydney
26 December – 1 January

Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race in Sydney, NSW
The annual ocean race is one of the world’s most celebrated sporting traditions. (Image: Destination NSW)

One of the most celebrated sporting traditions in the world, the annual Rolex Sydney Hobart Yacht Race stands is known as both a gruelling and rewarding ocean challenge. Hundreds of participants tackle the maritime race year after year, from 100-foot maxi yachts to 30-foot racers – making for a true on-water spectacle.

This December, over 140 yachts will compete for the crown, the second biggest fleet this century. Whether you’re a long-time supporter or first-time spectator, the starting line launch in Sydney Harbour will have you cheering louder than waves against a hull.

What’s on in Victoria in December

Summer Night Market
Melbourne
Throughout December

Summer Night Market in Melbourne, Vic
Dive into flavours from all around the world in Melbourne.

Melbourne’s favourite summer ritual has returned, celebrating a 25-year milestone of street eats, live music, artisan finds and after-dark energy. The Summer Night Market has become a stalwart on the city’s calendar, running for 15 weeks throughout our hottest months.

This year, guests can expect everything from global flavours and local produce to local entertainment and artisan markets. Sunset DJ sets, roving performers and buskers will soundtrack the Queen Victoria Market’s event each week, with free entry for all.

The Big Thrift Market
Torquay
29 December

Shopping at a thrift market
Dig through racks of pre-loved clothes and sustainable garments. (Image: Becca McHaffie)

Picture this: the sun is shining, the sea is sparkling, you’ve got an iced coffee in hand and you’ve just arrived at The Big Thift Market . Does it get any better? Stallholders focus on everything slow fashion, so expect racks upon racks of pre-loved pieces, reworked garments, upcycled accessories, handmade wearables and more.

It’s a win-win for all involved: you’re supporting local makers, revolutionising your summer wardrobe without blowing the budget and giving the planet a little love in the process. Held in Torquay along the Great Ocean Road, The Big Thrift runs from 12pm to 9pm for one day only!

Boxing Day Ashes
Melbourne
26–30 December

MCG in Melbourne, Vic
The Boxing Day Ashes are one of Australia’s biggest sport events. (Image: Visit Victoria)

The Boxing Day Ashes remain one of the most historic events in world sport – and you won’t want to miss this one. Across five hotly contested days, watch on as Australia takes on England at the MCG for a nail-biting test series, paired with summer sun, cold beers and your best mates.

The two nations have been competing in cricket since 1877, but The Ashes takes the rivalry to a whole other level, sparked in 1882 when Australia stole a test victory on England’s home soil. Will we retain the urn, or will the English take it home? Grab your tickets to find out!

Summer Shred Sesh
Mount Buller
6–7 December

Mount Buller in Victoria
Escape the heat this month at the Summer Shred Sesh. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Snow in summer? Mount Buller says yes. Escape the heat this December at the Summer Shred Sesh , a two-day freestyle showdown open to skiers, snowboarders and spectators amid one of Australia’s most gorgeous snow towns.

Thanks to snow stored from the winter, lovers of the cold can extend their favourite season – paired with live music, food trucks, giveaways and plenty of prizes. Whether you hit the slopes or cheer from the sidelines, it’s the perfect way to celebrate the start of summer, Buller-style.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

AI Prompt

Women Photographers
Melbourne
From 28 November

Visitors in the Women Photographers 1900–1975: A Legacy of Light exhibition, on display from 28 November to 3 May 2026 at NGV International. (Image: Eve Wilson)
Women Photographers 1900–1975: A Legacy of Light, on display from 28 November to 3 May 2026 at NGV International. (Image: Eve Wilson)

Melbourne’s NGV unveils Women Photographers 1900–1975: A Legacy of Light , bringing together some of the most iconic images of the 20th century by over 80 influential female artists. The exhibition traces significant parts of history through the lens, from historic images of the suffrage movement to imagery depicting women’s liberation.

Through portraiture, photojournalism and experimental avant-garde works, the exhibition explores not only the photographs, but the stories behind them. Women Photographers reveals how each artist used the camera to capture, reflect and challenge the world around them, including Dora Maar, Ruth Hollick, Florence Henri and more.

Groove Tram
Bendigo
6 December

Groove Tram in Bendigo, Victoria
Get ready for a good time onboard the Groove Tram.

Bendigo, are you ready to get your groove on? This month, the iconic Groove Tram is gearing up to take guests on a ride through the city for the last time! Stretching the full length of the town, the trams first started operating in 1890 and are now Australasia’s largest tourist tramway.

Come 6 December, tram punters can book one of two, adults-only, Groove Tram rides through Bendigo – starting at 5.30pm and 8pm. For the final ride, local musical duo Slide will entertain guests, who can enjoy wine, beer and nibbles along the way.

What’s on in Queensland in December

Woodford Folk Festival
Moreton Bay
27 December – 1 January

Woodford Folk Festival in Moreton Bay, Qld
Create, connect, laugh, listen and dance your way into 2026. (Image: Lachlan Douglas)

Welcome the New Year by setting your soul free at the Woodford Folk Festival . Built by a diverse congregation of the creative community, the festival has transformed into a village of music, culture and colour since its inception in 1887.

The vibrant event is held in the magical lands of Woodfordia by Lake Gkula, around a 1.5-hour drive north of Brisbane. Headlined by local, national and international acts, festival-goers are invited to create, connect, laugh, listen and dance into 2026.

BrisStyle Twilight Market
Brisbane
19 December

Brisstyle Twilight Markets in Brisbane, Qld
One of Brisbane’s best markets embraces the festive season come December. (Image: Rachel Kimberley)

The BrisStyle Twilight Market is one of the Queensland capital’s best markets, featuring 100 per cent local, handmade goods that are as delightful as they are sustainable. However, come December, the much-loved market turns into a Christmas extravaganza under the twinkling lights of the Brisbane Christmas Tree.

Head to King George Square to peruse stalls selling everything from ceramics and embroidery to jewellery and all-natural skincare, before grabbing a snack from the food truck and enjoying live music. It’s a great opportunity to support local businesses – and get some Chrissie shopping done, too!

Wynnum Wonderland
Wynnum
28 November – 22 December

Wynnum Wonderland in Wynnum, Qld
Live entertainment spans music, circus and acrobatics to comedy, carols and cabaret.

This year, a new festival is coming to Brisbane’s coast. From the founders of the Wynnum Fringe, Wynnum Wonderland  has been described as pure joy wrapped up in a big Bayside bow, ready to generously sprinkle festive cheer among townsfolk to get everyone into the spirit of silly season.

For its inaugural event, Wynnum Wonderland is really putting on a show. Live entertainment spans music, circus and acrobatics to comedy, carols and cabaret – plus plenty of bars and food trucks. With a line-up like that, it is sure to become a Chrissie tradition in no time.

Sono Lumo
Brisbane
10–21 December

Sono Lumo in Brisbane, Qld
Queens Wharf transforms into a light and sound show for Sono Lumo this month.

Brisbane’s largest Christmas festival of sound and light is set to transform Queen’s Wharf this December, turning the precinct into a festive wonderland like never before. Running across 10 days, Sono Lumo heroes three spectacular sound and light shows under the theme ‘Steampunk City’, which will illuminate surrounding buildings with immersive projections.

Alongside these visual spectacles, attendees can also spend the evening listening to live entertainment and DJ sets at pop-up bars offering drinks and seasonal bites. Or head down to the riverfront, where a seven-metre inflatable airship bar will be hovering from above.

Radiance
Rockhampton
28 November – 24 December

Rockhampton in Central Queensland embraces the festive season come December with Radiance , held in the city’s heritage-listed Botanic Gardens. Wander through 150-year-old trees to discover a variety of stunning light installations, laser effects, enchanting sculptures and interactive projections.

The nightly event will also showcase Christmas-themed art displays, soundscapes and special effects, all to get you excited for Santa’s arrival. In a first for the festival, guests will be able to experience the ToyMaker’s Workshop, which will run alongside Radiance until Christmas Eve.

What’s on in Tasmania in December

Very Merry Christmas High Tea
Launceston
14 December

High tea at Cataract on Paterson in Launceston, Tas
Don’t skip Cataract on Paterson’s delicious, freshly baked scones.

Nothing gets you in the mood for Christmas more than a festive high tea experience, enticing guests with sweets, treats and irresistible eats. One place getting into the spirit this year is Cataract on Paterson, one of the coolest cafes in Launceston, with its Very Merry Christmas High Tea .

Start off with a coffee or festive-themed cocktail before indulging in tiered platters topped with everything from fresh scones to finger sandwiches, plus bottomless cups of tea. It’s the perfect family day out, thanks to a mini high tea curated for your mini-me.

Taste of Summer
Hobart
27 December – 3 January

Taste of Summer in Hobart, Tas
Enjoy over 80 locally led artisan stalls through the week-long celebration. (Image: Alastair Bett)

Hobart’s gorgeous waterfront explodes with flavour and festivity over the New Year period, as Taste of Summer transforms Princes Wharf into a celebration of Tasmania’s finest produce. The week-long celebration opens at midday daily, giving you plenty of time to grab a coffee and wander down.

Over 80 locally led artisan stalls will be dishing up seasonal fare, fresh seafood, craft beer and premium wines across the week, paired perfectly with a line-up of live music. Don’t miss the big NYE party – with neon lights, performances and fireworks over the harbour, it’s the ultimate way to welcome 2026.

NYE Beerfest
Launceston
31 December

Beer tasting paddles
Cheers to 2025 with over 200 craft brews at NYE Beerfest in Launceston.

Launceston’s annual NYE Beerfest invites you to spend the final day of the year at Royal Park, sampling your choice of more than 200 top-notch brews. Do you accept? If so, you’ve just signed up for one of the city’s hottest events – and there’s so much more than just beer to look forward to.

In the lead-up to an epic fireworks display come midnight, you can attend tasting sessions, masterclasses, comedy shows, live music sets and the (not-so-official) beer olympics. If you’re not a fan of beer, you’re still welcome – just grab a cider, wine cocktail or spirit instead!

What’s on in Western Australia in December

Bubbles & Blooms
Margaret River
6 December

Bubbles & Blooms in Margaret River, WA
Spend the day enjoying flowers and free-flow sparkling in Margaret River.

Head to one of the Margaret River’s best wineries this month and you’ll be treated to Bubbles & Blooms , a dreamy afternoon of flowers and free-flow sparkling hosted at Howard Park. It’s the kind of event where you sip crisp Jeté bubbles, wander through colourful arrangements and soak in the summer air.

The free event takes place on the family winery’s shady lawn and brings together the region’s top florists, local eateries and musical performers. Top the arvo off by joining the one-hour ‘Sparkling from Near and Far’ masterclass to test your bubbly knowledge. 

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Snack Festival
Perth
31 December

Snack Festival in Perth, WA
Ring in the New Year at Snack Festival in Perth.

More NYE wonderland than music festival, Snack takes over Perth’s Claremont Showground with three main stages hosting epic music acts. Each stage has its own offshoot: The Pyramid Stage has a silent disco dancefloor, Sin City, a kissing booth, and the Duckzilla Stage, a VIP deck.

But that’s not all – in fact, it’s just the beginning. The festival also features thrilling rides and food trucks, as well as a beer garden, wedding chapel, snow park, piercing station, tattoo parlour and sumo wrestling ring. You’ll be having so much fun you won’t even notice the clock striking midnight.

Cherry Harmony Festival
Manjimup
13 December

Cherry Harmony Festival in Manjimup, WA
Celebrate the local food and wine of Manjimup at the Cherry Harmony Festival. (Image: Frances Andrijich)

Celebrate the local food and wine of Manjimup at the Cherry Harmony Festival this December. The flavour-fuelled day is full of exciting activities, including live music, street performances, exhibitions, workshops and the much-loved log-chopping competition.

Manjimup and the surrounding South West region of WA is known for its excellent cherry-growing conditions, making it an excellent place to do some seasonal fruit picking. But more importantly, it’s a great opportunity to support the community and get to know its local producers.

Attachment Styles
Perth
From 13 December

Frederick McCubbin Down on his luck 1889. Oil on canvas, 114.5 x 152.5 cm. The State Art Collection, The Art Gallery of Western Australia. Purchased 1896. (Image: Bo Wong)
Frederick McCubbin Down on his luck 1889. Oil on canvas. The State Art Collection, The Art Gallery of Western Australia. Purchased 1896. (Image: Bo Wong)

Opening 13 December at Perth’s Art Gallery of Western Australia, Attachment Styles: Modes of Belonging in Modern and Contemporary Art showcases some of the most recognisable works in Australian history. The landmark exhibition reveals the messy and magnetic ways humans connect – or don’t.

Highlights include Frederick McCubbin’s Down on his luck, Hans Heysen’s Droving into the light, Arthur Streeton’s The hillside and John Nash’s The Bathers. Alongside the iconic collection, visitors can expect a range of contemporary acquisitions from emerging Aussie artists like Tom Freeman, Mary Moore and Colleen Ahern.

Christmas Lights Cruise
Mandurah
Until early January

This month, step aboard one of Mandurah Cruises’ iconic boats for a Christmas Lights Cruise like no other. Homes along the city’s winding waterways come together each year to put on an incredible collective display, resulting in a kaleidoscope of colour for all to enjoy.

Millions of twinkling lights, decorations and installations are sure to get even the grumpiest of Grinches in the festive spirit. There are a variety of cruises to choose from, including a sensory-friendly option, departing nightly from the Mandurah Cruises Jetty in Mandjar Square.

What’s on in South Australia in December

Dougstock
Willunga
5–6 December

Dougstock in Willunga, SA
Escape to Dougstock for two days of camping and live music.

Dreaming of a hilltop escape that feels like a local secret? Look no further than Dougstock . The two-day music and camping festival in Willunga, on SA’s Fleurieu Peninsula, brings original Aussie artists together in a lush, elevated setting. Plus, artisan markets, food trucks, yoga sessions and good vibes, of course.

Whether you’re into psych-rock, jazz, soul or acoustics, the line-up is sure to excite – think Ripcord, Moose Juuce, Alexander Flood, Laura Hill and more. With campgrounds onsite, it’s the kind of weekend where you can really slow down, sink in and let the music carry you.

Carols by Candlelight
Adelaide
13 December

Christmas performance
Expect live performances and entertainment at Carols by Candlelight. (Image: Wen Jian)

Head to Elder Park this month to soak up the magic of St John Carols by Candlelight , a timeless tradition among Adelaidians. Gates open early, and you’ll find live music, food trucks, Christmas markets, face painting and festive fun before the big singalong starts.

As night falls, the concert begins, with community choirs and star performers taking to the stage – including the winner of The Voice Australia 2025, Alyssa Depopolo. The evening culminates in an epic finale of fireworks, as thousands of voices join in for their favourite carols.

Lights of Lobethal
Adelaide Hills
12–23 December

A beacon of light to South Australians of all ages, the Lights of Lobethal is a volunteer-run festival in the Adelaide Hills suburb. Throughout its 60-year history, no other calendar event has built more morale, creating happy memories and spreading joy, hope and resilience throughout the local community.

Experience the magic of Christmas and ignite your sense of nostalgia by immersing yourself in impressive experiences, from fantastical light installations to traditional festive events. Think carols, nativity plays, markets and the annual Lobethal pageant.

What’s on in the Northern Territory in December

Symphony of the Soul
Darwin
6 December

In a touching farewell to their artistic director and chief conductor, Jonathan Tooby, the Darwin Symphony Orchestra is performing Tchaikovsky’s extraordinary Sixth Symphony Pathétique. Held at the city’s Entertainment Centre, Symphony of the Soul promises to fill the space with melodies that swell with both heartbreak and hope.

The evening begins with Bernstein’s sparkling Overture to Candide, followed by DSO’s own Bassoonist Robert Llewellyn, who will feature in Weber’s Bassoon Concerto. The one-night-only event also marks DSO’s final performance of 2025, so it’s definitely not one to miss.

Sip n’ Sleigh
Darwin
19 November – 23 December

Christmas cocktails
Sip your way through a variety of delicious Christmas cocktails. (Image: Brooke Lark)

Get into the festive spirit this month with Sip n’ Sleigh , an epic Christmas cocktail trail along the Darwin waterfront. You and your crew will wander between 10 different venues, sampling a special holiday drink at each stop, as well as delightful bites to keep you fuelled. It’s like a merry pub crawl, but make it classy!

Your ticket includes four drink tokens and four food tokens, so you can pick and choose what you’d like. Just grab your booklet guide from the Wave Lagoon kiosk, then set off to taste your way through the day – because nothing says Christmas in summer like refreshing cocktails and waterfront views.

Christmas Light Trail
Darwin
29 November – 4 January

Step into a tropical festive dream with Darwin waterfront’s 2025 Christmas Light Trail , where the night comes alive with giant decorations along a one-kilometre illuminated pathway. From a glowing Santa to a towering lighthouse and even a giant octopus — it’s beachy, magical and totally unique.

All December long, the waterfront will be bursting with merry energy: pop-up performers, roving entertainers, face-painting and more. Younger ones with little legs can jump onboard  the magical Waterfront Express, a mini train ride that tracks along the trail each night.

What’s on in the ACT in December

After the Rain
Canberra
From 6 December

Dianne Inkamala, Western Aranda people, Albert's House, Ntaria NT, 2025 © Dianne Inkamala, courtesy Iltja Ntjarra Art Centre, Mparntwe/Alice Springs
Dianne Inkamala, Western Aranda people, Albert’s House, Ntaria NT, 2025 © Dianne Inkamala, courtesy Iltja Ntjarra Art Centre, Mparntwe/Alice Springs

Curated by Girramay/Yidinji/Kuku-Yalanji artist Tony Albert, the 5th National Indigenous Art Triennial: After the Rain spotlights 10 immersive, large-scale installations by both established and emerging Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander artists from across Australia.

Exploring themes such as rebirth and cycles of cleansing, the recurring exhibition creates an important platform for ideas, art, conversation and connection by First Nations communities. Following its presentation at Canberra’s NGA, After the Rain will tour nationally, visiting cities like Perth, Alice Springs and Brisbane.

Spilt Milk
Canberra
13 December

Spilt Milk in Canberra, ACT
Spilt Milk returns to its hometown this December. (Image: Mackenzie Sweetnam)

Spilt Milk is gearing up for another huge year, and Canberrans won’t be missing out. The festival rolls into its hometown at Exhibition Park this month, bringing the same electric energy that’s made it one of Australia’s most in-demand music events. Past performers include big names like Post Malone, Flume and Fisher, so expectations for the 2025 line-up are high.

Beyond blockbuster artists, Spilt Milk is loved for its immersive extras. There’s the Guilty Pleasures singalong tent, Howdy Howdy country bar and iconic Bus Da Move party bus, just to name a few. This year’s art program doesn’t disappoint either, curated in collaboration with local and socially conscious art studios. 

Laughs on the Lake
Canberra
4 December

Lake Burley Griffin in Canberra, ACT
Take to Lake Burley Griffin with Love Boats for Laughs on the Lake. (Image: VisitCanberra)

Some of Canberra’s best comedians are coming together this month for Laughs on the Lake by Love Boats , a cheeky comedy cruise that mixes stand-up with sunset views on Lake Burley Griffin. Settle in with a drink and a slice of freshly cooked pizza as your boat glides out onto the water and the jokes start rolling.

The show is MC’d by the fabulous Caitlin Maggs, with a line-up featuring Chris Malton, Sarah Stewart, Jeremy Smith, Jelin Palm, Sam Sila and Chris Begg. The one-night floating comedy club is guaranteed to leave you grinning long after you’ve returned to shore.

Taylah Darnell
Taylah Darnell is Australian Traveller's Writer & Producer. She has been passionate about writing since she learnt to read, spending many hours either lost in the pages of books or attempting to write her own. This life-long love of words inspired her to study a Bachelor of Communication majoring in Creative Writing at the University of Technology Sydney, where she completed two editorial internships. She began her full-time career in publishing at Ocean Media before scoring her dream job with Australian Traveller. Now as Writer & Producer, Taylah passionately works across both digital platforms and print titles. When she's not wielding a red pen over magazine proofs, you can find Taylah among the aisles of a second-hand bookshop, following a good nature trail or cheering on her EPL team at 3am. While she's keen to visit places like Norway and New Zealand, her favourite place to explore will forever be her homeland.
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This scenic Victorian region is the perfect antidote to city life

    Craig Tansley Craig Tansley

    Video credit: Visit Victoria/Tourism Australia

    The Grampians just might be the ultimate antidote for the metropolis, writes one returning Aussie ready to disconnect from the modern world and reconnect to the Great outdoors.

    There are no kangaroos back in Chicago: they’re all here in the Grampians/Gariwerd . In the heart of the Grampians National Park’s main gateway town, Halls Gap, pods of eastern greys are eating grass beside my parked rental car beneath the stars. Next morning, when I see the backyard of my rented villa on the edge of town for the first time, there are kangaroos feeding beside a slow-moving creek, lined with river red gums.

    Five hundred metres up the road, 50 or so of them are eating by the side of the road in a paddock. I pull over to watch and spot three emus. Yellow-tailed black cockatoos fly overhead towards the tall green mountains just beyond town.

    ‘Kee-ow, keee-oww’… their calls fuse with the maniacal cackle of a kookaburra (or 10). Gawd, how I’ve missed the sound of them. Far above, a wedge-tailed eagle watches, and there you go: the ‘great birds of Australia’ trifecta, all half a kay from the town limits.

    Exchanging city chaos for country calm

    kangaroos near Halls Gap, Grampians National Park
    The park is renowned for its significant diversity of native fauna species. (Image: Visit Victoria/Robert Blackburn)

    I’ve come to the Grampians to disconnect, but the bush offers a connection of its own. This isn’t just any bush, mind you. The Grampians National Park is iconic for many reasons, mostly for its striking sandstone mountains – five ridges run north to south, with abrupt, orange slopes which tumble right into Halls Gap – and for the fact there’s 20,000 years of traditional rock art. Across these mountains there are more than 200 recorded sites to see, created by the Djab Wurrung, Jardwadjali and Gunditjmara peoples. It’s just like our outback… but three hours from Melbourne.

    I’ve come here for a chance at renewal after the chaos of my life in America’s third-largest city, Chicago, where I live for now, at the whim of a relative’s cancer journey. Flying into Melbourne’s airport, it only takes an hour’s drive to feel far away from any concept of suburbia. When I arrive in Halls Gap two hours later, the restaurant I’m eating at clears out entirely by 7:45pm; Chicago already feels a lifetime ago.

    The trails and treasures of the Grampians

    sunrise at Grampians National Park /Gariwerd
    Grampians National Park /Gariwerd covers almost 2000 square kilometres. (Image: Ben Savage)

    Though the national park covers almost 2000 square kilometres, its best-known landmarks are remarkably easy to access. From my carpark here, among the cockatoos and kangaroos on the fringe of Halls Gap, it only takes 60 seconds’ driving time before I’m winding my way up a steep road through rainforest, deep into the mountains.

    Then it’s five minutes more to a carpark that serves as a trailhead for a hike to one of the park’s best vantage points, The Pinnacles . I walk for an hour or so, reacquainting myself with the smells and the sounds of the Aussie bush, before I reach it: a sheer cliff’s edge lookout 500 metres up above Halls Gap.

    walking through a cave, Hollow Mountain
    Overlooking the vast Grampians landscape from Hollow Mountain. (Image: Robert Blackburn)

    There are hikes and there are lookouts and waterfalls all across this part of the park near town. Some are a short stroll from a carpark; others involve long, arduous hikes through forest. The longest is the Grampians Peaks Trail , Victoria’s newest and longest iconic walk, which runs 160 kilometres – the entire length of Grampians National Park.

    Local activities operator Absolute Outdoors shows me glimpses of the trail. The company’s owner, Adrian Manikas, says it’s the best walk he’s done in Australia. He says he’s worked in national parks across the world, but this was the one he wanted to bring his children up in.

    “There’s something about the Grampians,” he says, as he leads me up a path to where there’s wooden platforms for tents, beside a hut looking straight out across western Victoria from a kilometre up in the sky (these are part of the guided hiking options for the trail). “There are things out here that you won’t see anywhere else in Australia.” Last summer, 80 per cent of the park was damaged by bushfire, but Manikas shows me its regrowth, and tells me of the manic effort put in by volunteers from town – with firefighters from all over Australia – to help save Halls Gap.

    wildflowers in Grampians National Park
    Spot wildflowers. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    We drive back down to Halls Gap at dusk to abseil down a mountain under the stars, a few minutes’ walk off the main road into town. We have headlamps, but a full moon is enough to light my way down. It takes blind faith to walk backwards down a mountain into a black void, though the upside is I can’t see the extent of my descent.

    Grampians National Park at sunset
    Grampians National Park at sunset. (Image: Wine Australian)

    The stargazing is ruined by the moon, of course, but you should see how its glow lights up the orange of the sandstone, like in a theme park. When I’m done, I stand on a rocky plateau drinking hot chocolate and listening to the Aussie animals who prefer nighttime. I can see the streets of Halls Gap off in the distance on this Friday night. The restaurants may stay open until 8pm tonight.

    What else is on offer in The Grampians?

    a boat travelling along the Wimmera River inDimboola
    Travelling along the Wimmera River in Dimboola. (Image: Chris McConville)

    You’ll find all sorts of adventures out here – from rock climbing to canoeing to hiking – but there’s more to the Grampians than a couple of thousand square kilometres of trees and mountains. Halls Gap may be known to most people, but what of Pomonal, and Dimboola, and Horsham? Here in the shadow of those big sandstone mountains there are towns and communities most of us don’t know to visit.

    And who knew that the Grampians is home to Victoria’s most underrated wine region ? My disconnection this morning comes not in a forest, but in the tasting rooms and winery restaurants of the district. Like Pomonal Estate, barely 10 minutes’ drive east of Halls Gap, where UK-born chef Dean Sibthorp prepares a locally caught barramundi with lentil, pumpkin and finger lime in a restaurant beside the vines at the base of the Grampians. Husband-and-wife team Pep and Adam Atchison tell me stories as they pour their prize wines (shiraz is the hero in these parts).

    dining at Pomonal Estate
    Dine in a restaurant beside vines at Pomonal Estate. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Three minutes’ drive back down the road, long-time mates Hadyn Black and Darcy Naunton run an eclectic cellar door out of a corrugated iron shed, near downtown Pomonal. The Christmas before last, half the houses in Pomonal burnt down in a bushfire, but these locals are a resilient lot.

    The fires also didn’t stop the construction of the first art centre in Australia dedicated to environmental art in a nature-based precinct a little further down the road (that’s Wama – the National Centre for Environmental Arts), which opened in July. And some of the world’s oldest and rarest grape vines have survived 160 years at Best’s Wines, outside the heritage town of Great Western. There’s plantings here from the year 1868, and there’s wines stored in century-old barrels within 150-year-old tunnels beneath the tasting room. On the other side of town, Seppelt Wines’ roots go back to 1865. They’re both only a 30-minute drive from Halls Gap.

    Salingers of Great Western
    Great Western is a charming heritage town. (Image: Griffin Simm)

    There’s more to explore yet; I drive through tiny historic towns that barely make the map. Still part of the Grampians, they’re as pretty as the mountains behind them: full of late 19th-century/early 20th-century post offices, government offices and bank buildings, converted now to all manner of bric-a-brac stores and cafes.

    The Imaginarium is one, in quirky Dimboola, where I sleep in the manager’s residence of an old National Australia Bank after a gourmet dinner at the local golf club, run by noted chef and teacher, Cat Clarke – a pioneer of modern Indigenous Australian cooking. Just south, I spend an entire afternoon at a winery, Norton Estate Wines, set on rolling calico-coloured hills that make me think of Tuscany, chit-chatting with owners Chris and Sam Spence.

    Being here takes me back two decades, when I lived here for a time. It had all seemed as foreign as if I’d driven to another planet back then (from Sydney/Warrane), but there seemed something inherently and immediately good about this place, like I’d lived here before.

    And it’s the Australian small-town familiarity of the Grampians that offers me connection back to my own country. Even in the better-known Halls Gap, Liz from Kerrie’s Creations knows I like my lattes with soy milk and one sugar. And while I never do get the name of the lady at the local Ampol station, I sure know a lot about her life.

    Kookaburras on a tree
    Kookaburras are one of some 230 bird species. (Image: Darren Donlen)

    You can be a local here in a day; how good is that? In Chicago, I don’t even know who my neighbour is. Though each day at dusk – when the kangaroos gather outside my villa, and the kookaburras and the black cockatoos shout out loud before settling in to sleep – I prefer the quieter connection I get out there in the bush, beneath these orange mountains.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Staying there

    Sleep beside the wildlife on the edge of Halls Gap at Serenity .

    Playing there

    abseiling down Hollow Mountain
    Hollow Mountain is a popular abseiling site.

    Go abseiling under the stars or join a guided hike with Absolute Outdoors . Visit Wama , Australia’s first environmental art centre. Check out Dimboola’s eccentric Imaginarium .

    Eating there

    steak, naan bread and beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap serves a great steak on naan bread.

    Eat world-class cuisine at Pomonal Estate . Dine and stay at much-revered icon Royal Mail Hotel in Dunkeld. The ‘steak on naan’ at Halls Gap brewhouse Paper Scissors Rock , can’t be beat.

    Dunkeld Arboretum in Grampians National Park
    The serene Dunkeld Arboretum.

    For Halls Gap’s best breakfasts head to Livefast Cafe . Sip local wines at Great Western’s historic wineries, Best’s Wines , Seppelt Wines and Norton Estate Wines .

    two glasses of beer at Paper Scissors Rock in Halls Gap
    Sink a cold one at Paper Scissors Rock.