From star-stamped skies to subterranean landscapes sculpted over millions of years, the Dubbo region possesses some of  Mother Nature’s most extraordinary handiwork.

My first visit to Dubbo ended in crushing disappointment, a bitterness I only felt as I steered my car north beyond the jagged mountain range of the Warrumbungles and the city lights quickly surrendered to an inky expanse. 

For several days, I’d only ever looked forward – at elephants bathing at Taronga Western Plains Zoo, at my hands running over the ridges of Old Dubbo Gaol’s clay 19th-century bricks, at the cockpit of an emergency aircraft at the Royal Flying Doctor Service Visitor Experience – but as an entire universe of silvery fish revealed itself to me on the drive, I realised I’d made a grave mistake. I should have been looking up.  

The fact that Warrumbungle National Park was declared Australia’s first Dark Sky Park on account of its clear night skies, low humidity, high altitude and distance from light-polluting cities a short time later, in 2016, only confirmed it. 

Returning for Australia’s first Dark Sky Park

Since then my children have become teenagers, and now we head back to follow in the footsteps of stargazers and astronomers who’ve sought and found refuge in galaxies, nebulas and star clusters.  

Just two hours north of Dubbo is all it takes, and although many arrive early to take advantage of the national park’s hiking trails (with its dramatic volcanic formations, the challenging 14.5-kilometre Breadknife and Grand High Tops walk is considered The Trail) or to do a guided tour of Siding Spring Observatory, we instead make a beeline for Milroy Observatory.  

Here, 10 kilometres outside the Coonabarabran township, Donna Burton – better known as ‘Donna the Astronomer’ – doesn’t so much as lead 90-minute tours to showcase other planets and the Milky Way, but invites kids young and middle-aged to dream about what could be ‘out there’ as they drink in the night through outdoor telescopes.  

“I think I can see the Death Star!" I hear a little boy squeal as his father weaves an elaborate Star Wars Warrumbungles-edition story George Lucas himself would approve of. My own girls, I notice, have gone worryingly quiet – until my eldest pulls away, eyes as wide as saucers, and whispers, “It reminds me of that famous Champagne quote you’re always going on about." “Come quickly, I am tasting the stars?" (It was said to be uttered by Dom Pierre Pérignon when he took his first sip of Champagne). “Yes, that! There are so many stars you feel like you could poke out your tongue and taste them." Blame the power of suggestion, but by the time we drive away I’m convinced my own tongue feels a little fizzy.  

Time travelling in Dubbo and beyond

They say time travel is not yet possible but I’m not so sure, because back in Dubbo, where my husband is desperate to tackle modern-day terrain on the Central West Cycle Trail, I discover Indigenous Wiradjuri experiences at the Western Plains Cultural Centre that can transport me back at least 40,000 years. And when we drive a little further south to Wellington Caves – a vast limestone underworld teeming with fossils of Diprotodon (an extinct marsupial bearing a ‘possessed beaver’ aesthetic) and Thylacoleo carnifex – we can go back 400 million years yet still enjoy a flat white at the onsite cafe.  

If this were anywhere else, condensing millions of years of geology and curious animal history in one accessible place could be seen as a challenge; at Wellington Caves, all it requires is a hard hat and a check that you can handle the step-heavy physicality of either its guided Cathedral or Gaden Cave Tour. We opt for the former, and its 15-metre-tall crystal formation provides the ultimate wow factor. The opportunity also presents to play paleontologist at the onsite Fossil Discovery Lab, or to wind our way around the Fossil Trail, but with the kids exploring the cave’s coral petrifactions, I take a moment to pause and marvel at how elastic time can be.  

Nearby treasure towns 

The Dubbo region may present an opportunity to travel millennia in one day, but it’s far from the only town where nature performs endless magic. Tack on the following destinations to complete your ultimate NSW holiday. 

Narrabri 

Head near the volcanic wilderness of Mount Kaputar National Park, some 260 kilometres north of Dubbo, and you’ll find a destination that offers both relaxed country town ambience and all the thrilling nature activities you can handle.  

Famous for the organ pipe ‘design’ of its 750-metre Sawn Rocks walking track, Narrabri’s hiking, canoeing, cycling and horseback riding are also popular options for active travellers.  

Others might prefer visiting the Australia Telescope Compact Array to view its 22-metre radio telescope dishes up close, or the Narrabri Old Gaol and Museum.  

Lightning Ridge 

Alice in Wonderland has nothing on the curiosities of the quirky outback town of Lightning Ridge, 349 kilometres north of Dubbo, which is as celebrated for its rare black opals as it is for its unusual art offerings.  

Before you get down to the serious business of finding gems at one of the designated public fossicking areas, it’s best to do a self-drive tour; marked by painted car doors, you can follow the trail to check out top sights, such as Amigo’s Castle and the underground sculptures of Chambers of the Black Hand.  

Another trip highlight? Visiting the Lightning Ridge Artesian Bore Baths by night, where you can lie back and relax in bubbling 40°C water as you gaze up at a canopy of stars.  

Moree 

Welcome to Moree, Australia’s artesian spa capital. This tranquil world – set on the banks of the Mehi river, 362 kilometres northeast of Dubbo – is where Art Deco architecture, paddock-to-plate dining and, yes, multiple hot springs come together to create the ultimate getaway.  

With its wealth of birding and fishing opportunities, the Gwydir Wetlands State Conservation Area might be the star of the show, but Moree Artesian Aquatic Centre and its mineral-rich hot pools (naturally heated to about 39°C–41°C) is not to be missed. 

Travel details

How to get there 

At the junction of the Newell, Mitchell and Golden Highways, Dubbo is 395 kilometres from Sydney along the Mitchell Highway. It’s serviced by both Dubbo Regional Airport and NSW TrainLink, with services connecting Dubbo with Sydney and regional NSW. 

Where to stay 

Stargazing is made that much sweeter with a stay in the luxurious two- or three-bedroom lodges at Dark Sky Eco Retreat in the foothills of the Warrumbungles. The retreat features fireplaces and plunge spas, while a range of tours –
from stargazing to emu safaris – are available onsite. 

What to do 

The one-hour Cathedral Cave Tour descends through spectacular limestone chambers via 300 stairs through the Wellington Caves system. A medium level of fitness and mobility is required.  

Where to eat 

Mornings are best kicked off with a visit to Press, a progressive cafe and coffee roaster serving seasonal fare in Dubbo’s CBD.