Australia’s First Wine Region Reveals its Undiscovered Side

Australia’s first wine region remains one of its favourites. But even for those of us who know the Hunter Valley well, it still holds surprises as it evolves while staying true to tradition.

There are certain points during a trip to the Hunter Valley that make you feel like you’ve stepped straight into a Frederick McCubbin painting. The Australian impressionist captured in brushstrokes an early Australian pastoral ideal in all its tawny shades of green and burnished golds offset by a blue sky or a marbled sunset. And despite being Australia’s most popular wine region, just over two hours from Sydney and an even quicker skip down the road from Newcastle, the Hunter still serves up these vistas in abundance and quick succession: revealed once you round a bend en route from one winery to another, kangaroos grazing in the grasses in your periphery.

The Hunter’s ability to surprise

Traditional Lands of the Wonnarua people and encompassing 2605 hectares of vineyards, the Hunter is a patchwork of smaller subregions each with its own nuances in terms of wine characteristics. I join a gathering at Carillion Wines at Tallavera Grove to celebrate the 16th annual Hunter Valley Legends Awards, which recognises the region’s past, present and future.

The sun rises over vineyards in Australia’s oldest wine country, the Hunter Valley. (Image: Destination NSW)

Here in Mount View, in what has poetically been described as the dress circle of the Hunter Valley, vines grow on terra rossa soils derived from underlying limestone that you’d more readily associate with South Australia’s Coonawarra cabernet sauvignon than in a glass of classic Hunter semillon, verdelho, chardonnay or shiraz. Such is the surprise you can still find here. And, as we look out towards the vineyards cushioned by rolling hills, the bucolic vista belies the region’s urban proximity. “Welcome to this beautiful part of the valley," says chef Robert Molines of adjoining restaurant Bistro Molines, gesturing to the view. “That’s why we turn up every day."

Stroll along Hunter Valley’s picturesque vineyards. (Image: Destination NSW)

With vines first planted from 1828, and on the map as a wine region both locally and internationally by the late 1800s, the Hunter Valley is Australia’s oldest and most visited surviving commercial wine region. Famous Australian wine names such as Wilkinson and Tyrrell are among the pioneering families still rooted in Hunter winemaking tradition today. And as I stand here right now among legends, including fourth-generation winemaker Bruce Tyrrell, I contemplate what has changed and what has stayed the same.

Tyrrell’s Wines was founded in 1858 and is one of the region’s pioneering wineries. (Image: Destination NSW)

A wine trail in Broke Fordwich reveals an indie side to the Hunter

A further revelation comes in the shape of another subregion of the Hunter Valley. Just 20 minutes from the hub of Pokolbin, where you’ll find institutions such as Brokenwood and Tyrrell’s, Broke Fordwich feels a world away. With unique basalt- and iron-rich soils producing idiosyncratic wines, it even has its own Geographical Indication (GI).

The landscape, framed by ridges and mountains, opens up into those McCubbin vistas again. “Isn’t this God’s country?" asks our driver, Peter Butler of Rover Coaches, emphatically. An old romantic who’s ever-ready with a story of a Hunter proposal or wedding, he loves to bring guests to this pocket of the valley: “People don’t know it’s here."

Shiraz and cabernet sauvignon grape varieties in Hunter Valley vineyards

Shiraz and cabernet sauvignon are among the red varietals in Hunter Valley vineyards.

Dotted with small, passionate businesses, Broke retains an indie streak. At Running Horse Wines, David Fromberg pours tastings to a soundtrack of alternative music while views of the equine-dotted paddocks flood in through huge shipping-container windows.

Family-run BARE Nature’sKin is an eclectic apothecary where you can stock up on handmade soaps and olive oil. French-inspired Krinklewood Estate is the Hunter’s first certified biodynamic winery: peacocks saunter between tables dotted around the sun-dappled courtyard while patrons linger over a cheese platter and basket press shiraz.

a peacock strolling around Krinklewood Estate

A peacock struts around Krinklewood Estate. (Image: Nikki To)

“We have a great community," says Karin Adcock, Winmark Wines owner and vigneron, who was instrumental in establishing a wine trail through the area. “It’s such an important thing for us to have a good wine trail that shows the world there’s a reason to come to Broke and many good places to visit. There’s a really good camaraderie between the vineyards and people are happy to help and share their knowledge."

guests sipping chardonnay in the sun at Winmark Wines

Sip chardonnay in the sun at the cellar door of the year Winmark Wines.

Winmark Wines is fresh from winning Cellar Door of the Year at the 2023 Hunter Valley Legends Awards. Karin is breaking the mould with a winery – which translates to Field of Vines in her native Danish – dedicated solely to making best-in-class chardonnay with the help of leading viticulturist Liz Riley and vineyard manager David Grosser.

scenic vineyards over Yellow Rock and the Broke Fordwich wine region

Take in magical views over Yellow Rock and the Broke Fordwich wine region.

The mission? To introduce drinkers to the versatility of modern chardonnay (and banish any oak-driven preconceptions). The winery, which sits at the base of Yellow Rock, also does triple duty as an art gallery and accommodation complete with a tiny home and guest houses whose walls are lined with paintings; Karin, who brought Pandora jewellery to Australia, is an avid collector of art and sculpture.

That Karin doesn’t come from a winemaking background adds to the winning equation: she questions and innovates. And, from the boutique cellar door in the old storage shed to the barista coffee cart, activities for kids and sculpture walk, everything here is executed impeccably. “What gets me out of bed in the morning? Making people happy through exceptional experiences," says Karin.

It hasn’t quite nudged midday when I’m sipping chardonnay and eating homegrown olives pickled in fennel while looking out over the vines as Rosie the mini cavoodle darts around between tables. The sunsets here are said to be spectacular, with the light illuminating the dramatic sandstone escarpment. But Margan Wines down the road in Broke beckons for lunch at its elegant agri-dining restaurant and a tour of the property with Ollie Margan and 2023 Viticulturist of the Year, Nicolas Looby. In 2020, Ollie returned to the Hunter from Adelaide, where he ran cocktail bar Maybe Mae, to make wines at the family estate.

a chicken at Margan Estate, Hunter Valley

Estate-grown produce informs the menu at award-winning Margan Wines and Restaurant. (Image: Destination NSW)

He brings fresh ideas and a passion for sustainable, regenerative practices, with efforts focused on establishing an ecosystem that takes care of itself, he says. While traditional winemaking has been focused around a monoculture style of farming, the long-term plan is about improving soil vitality; currently, several biodynamic farming practices are employed and, as of 2020, Margan Wines set about converting its entire Broke property to organic. “You can evolve while respecting traditions," Ollie says.

Sampling wine in situ at Margan Estate. (Image: Hunter Valley Wine & Tourism Association)

A new generation of winemakers

Ollie is part of a new generation of winemakers who are finding space in a landscape steeped in history. For young-gun winemaker Emily Glover, who works at De Iuliis and is branching out with her own label, it’s about refocusing styles the region is famous for and building on wine with texture.

“The first release from Glover Wines embraces semillon in its traditional style. The result of attention to detail and a minimal-intervention approach is pristine young wine with subtle layers of texture," says Emily. “This style is made to be delicious and approachable as a young wine, but I hope will stand the test of time and sit among the other great wines of the Hunter Valley in years to come."

Hunter Valley alumni are spread all across Australia’s wine regions and are part of a proud tradition. Emily, who grew up locally, opted to stay and feels positive about more of the established winemakers opening up opportunities for young makers to cut their own groove. And others are making their own opportunities, too.

Mercedes Mendoza and Pierre Toumanoff started Stay n’ Sip, the Hunter Valley’s first after-hours wine-tasting service, in 2020 after meeting while studying at the Wine & Spirit Education Trust. They spotted a gap in the market: with wineries and cellar doors closed come 5pm, why not bring the wine to the visitors’ accommodation for an intimate tasting among friends?

Mercedes and Pierre, who previously worked at Krinklewood, work their Hunter connections to bring to the table exclusive wines that showcase the region and that you can’t buy elsewhere.

wine and cheese platter at Krinklewood Estate

Krinklewood Estate is a French-inspired biodynamic winery. (Image: Nikki To)

At Spicers Guesthouse, before enjoying a sumptuous dinner at in-house restaurant éRemo, we take our seats for a Gourmet Wine Tasting featuring drops from boutique cellar doors and private cellars matched with locally produced cheeses, honeycomb and chocolates. It’s a fun, interactive session that gets the whole group animated. “Even if you don’t speak the same language, open a bottle of wine and you understand each other," Pierre rightly says.

At Thomas Wines’ cellar door, third-time Winemaker of the Year Andrew ‘Thommo’ Thomas introduces us to his Like A Version bracket of semillon. A concept borrowed from Triple J radio’s Friday morning segment, here he presents the ‘original’ and a ‘cover version’ from one of the Hunter Valley’s most iconic semillon vineyards.

Guest winemakers include Ollie Margan and the Barossa’s Reid Bosward in collaboration with Thommo’s winemaker son, Daniel Thomas. We sample and compare notes. “It’s my nod to the lo-fi movement," Thommo says, “but at the same time, reinforcing why we do what we do." Offering a true sense of place, classic styles are still worth celebrating.

a man harvesting shiraz grapes at Thomas Wines

Harvesting shiraz grapes at Thomas Wines. (Image: Elfes Images)

A look back to the past

Back at Mount View, with those idyllic views from Carillion Wines, I speak to 2023 Tourism Industry Living Legend John Stevens, recognised for his 35-year commitment to tourism in the region including the development of The Vintage, and to Bruce Tyrrell, another living legend.

Bruce remembers when the Hunter was all dirt roads and a handful of wineries. The building of the freeway has been the biggest change, he says, cutting the four-and-a-half hour trip from Sydney in half and opening the region up to more visitors. In 2012, he and John worked together on the Vineyard Vision masterplan, which course-corrected the direction of evolving the valley. “It kept the fabric of what the valley was all about, and not overdeveloped," says John.

Tyrrell’s Wines is one of the oldest and most successful wineries in the region. (Image: Destination NSW)

“We need to continue to specialise in what we do – high-quality wine," says Bruce, while moving towards sustainable winegrowing; Tyrrell’s is part of Sustainable Winegrowing Australia and is aiming to become certified sustainable by the end of 2023. So some things have changed in Australia’s most enduring wine region, but thankfully much has stayed the same, too. “It’s about preserving the rural outlook," says Bruce, as we drink in the view.

Family-owned Tyrrell’s Wines is a Hunter institution. (Image: Destination NSW)

A Traveller’s Checklist

Getting there

It takes about two hours via the M1 Motorway to get to the Hunter Valley from Sydney and one hour from Newcastle.

Staying there

Château Élan at The Vintage is located mere steps away from the manicured fairways so you can play and stay in Pokolbin.
Spicers Guesthouse draws on the soft and subdued palette of the Hunter Valley for inspiration and has all the style and substance of a property in the Spicers stable.

Château Élan at The Vintage. (Image: Destination NSW)

Family-run Tower Lodge is a unique and stylish luxury stay in the heart of Pokolbin, offering 14 suites, a fine dining restaurant, an outdoor pool and front-row seats to the best of the Hunter.

an aerial view of the outdoor pool at Tower Lodge

The outdoor pool at Tower Lodge offers respite and wellness between wine tastings. (Image: Hamilton Lund Photographer)

Playing there

Broke Fordwich wine trail encourages visitors to plot their own course to discover regional revelations, such as Winmark Wines and other hidden gems.

The Stay n’ Sip team will tailor a private, tutored wine-tasting experience and deliver it at your accommodation.

Experiences at Tower Lodge include everything from the flight of a lifetime in a helicopter or hot air balloon, to a chic-nic in the vines – all from a luxe base.

Balloon Aloft now operates NSW’s first wheelchair-accessible hot air balloon flight from the Hunter Valley.

The Hunter Valley has more than 50 wineries and cellar doors with accessible toilets, grab rails or ramps, as well as a raft of easy-access eateries and attractions.

Eating there

Bistro Molines has a vibe that has been perfected by restaurateurs Robert and Sally Molines to match the sort of place you might find in Provence.

Bistro Molines is a charming restaurant with bucolic vineyard views. (Image: Destination NSW)

Margan Restaurant & Winery is a must while in the Hunter: the family-run estate is acclaimed as much for its agri-dining experience as its environmental stewardship.

food and drinks on the table at Margan Restaurant & Winery

Margan Restaurant & Winery is known for its paddock-to-plate dining.

The Lane Retreat gives guests VIP access to two of the region’s best wineries, an award-winning restaurant, an alfresco pizzeria, and an onsite gourmet pantry for a foodie-fuelled weekend that is low on fuss and big on value.

I’m watching kangaroos graze in the last light of day from the deck of my Lakeview Studio at The Lane Retreat, wine in hand. I arrived a couple of hours earlier with my husband for a two-night stay at the Hunter Valley’s newest winery accommodation.

I’ve been travelling to the Hunter Valley wine region for over 20 years, and I would like to think I’m well-versed in how to do it well, but one thing I’ve found it has often lacked is access to diverse accommodation options. That’s been slowly changing in recent years with the opening of unique affordable glamping sites, luxury stays in renovated vintage train carriages, and the new five-star-plus hotel planned for Ben Ean Estate.

The 60 lakeside studios scattered alongside the historic Palmers Lane vineyard at The Lane Retreat are the newest addition to the region, and I’ve heard nothing but good things since it first welcomed guests at the end of 2023. Now, I finally get to test it out firsthand.

Location

Aerial view of The Lane Retreat in Hunter Valley

The studio retreats are nestled between vineyards and a lake with the Broken Back Range as its backdrop.

Located on one of Bimbadgen’s award-winning vineyards on Palmers Lane in Pokolbin, The Lane Retreat claims the craggy mountain peaks of Broken Back Range as its backdrop, a picture-perfect lake frequented by paddling ducks and elegant black swans, plus kangaroos can easily be spotted bounding through the vineyards and grazing around the retreat. It’s an eight-minute drive to Polkolbin Village and is perfectly positioned for a visit to any of the region’s 90-plus wineries.

Style and character

External view of The Lane Retreat studios

The design of the studio retreats reflects the beauty of the environment from every angle.

The eco-conscious charcoal cabins (they’re fitted with solar panels and run on tank water) are designed to optimise access to the natural beauty of the property through the use of glass in the floor-to-ceiling windows, doors and panels. From the outside, the reflection of the mountains, vineyard and sky gives the illusion that the studios are blending into their surroundings. While inside, we’re treated to unbeatable Hunter Valley views – sunset and sunrise offer primetime entertainment. The 60 studio retreats, owned by the Mulpha Group, were originally built to offer onsite accommodation to complement the Bimbadgen Palmers Lane wedding venue. And if you’re lucky enough to be staying during a wedding, it makes for a lovely vibe on arrival, as the high energy and excitement of wedding guests are palpable.

Facilities and services

A free door-to-door shuttle service is provided to guests.

A complimentary door-to-door shuttle service transports guests between the group’s cellar doors for tastings and dinner reservations. A service we make use of on the first night of our stay for an early evening Signature Tasting at Bimbadgen Estate, followed by dinner at the winery’s pizzeria that connects to the tasting room via the Tuscan courtyard. It was such a treat not to force one of us to be the designated driver or pay extra for a shuttle service. While we also had access to the shuttle between Emma’s Cottage and the accommodation the next day, I decided I’d prefer to drive us, but booked the free service again for dinner that night at Esca back at Bimbadgen Estate.

A gourmet platter with goods from the Pantry at Lane Retreat

Pick up all manner of delicious supplies from the gourmet pantry onsite to enjoy back in your room.

It’s a five-minute stroll to The Pantry for a barista-made espresso coffee in the morning. But it’s also perfect for picking up a bottle of wine, beer, mixers, soft drinks or Night Merchant gin. There’s a range of snacks, including lollies and chips, as well as locally made treats like Cocoa Nibs chocolates and all the provisions needed to make a delicious cheese platter. I enjoyed browsing the homewares and gifts for sale, too.

View of the heated pool at The Lane Retreat

Pack swimmers to enjoy the heated pool all year round.

There is a heated swimming pool (that I wasn’t brave enough to use during my visit) at the heart of the retreat, and the metal water bottles supplied in your room can be refilled here with cold filtered water.

The room

Interior of Studio Retreat at The Lane Retreat in the Hunter Valley

The king-sized AH Beard mattress provides unbeatable comfort.

We stayed at No. 32 in a Lakeview Studio Retreat, and when it comes to standout features, I’m torn between the bathroom and the bed. The double showers with two rain shower heads are an indulgent touch given the size of the studio room, as are the double vanities, heated towel rails and toiletries by Melbourne natural skincare company Hunter Lab. The AH Beard king-sized mattress was extremely comfortable. Rarely do I prefer a hotel bed over my own, but this one delivered.

Bathrooms of studio retreats at The Lane Retreat

Oversized bathrooms are a much-appreciated indulgence.

Soothing greens and terracotta feature heavily throughout the interiors – from the art to soft furnishings and the sofa. There is also a dining table for two and a kitchenette that includes a fridge, microwave, coffee machine and kettle, as well as all the basics: cutlery, mugs, plates, bowls and glassware.

Food and drink

Breakfast provisions at The Lane Retreat

Delicious breakfast provisions are left for guests in the kitchenette.

There is no onsite restaurant, but The Pantry provides the perfect walkable option for snacks, coffee and drinks. Breakfasts are also taken care of with gourmet breakfast hampers included. We had Brookfarm muesli topped with Paris Creek Farms organic blueberry yoghurt, fresh sourdough with jams and butter and cold-pressed juice and milk.

Wood-fired pizzas are pumped out to happy customers in the Tuscan courtyard.

Bimbadgen Estate has two dining options: the award-winning flagship restaurant, Esca, and a pizzeria. The estate is a short drive away (make use of the free shuttle service) and we dined at both during our stay. The pizzas were cooked to doughy perfection and a glass of the 2019 Signature Shiraz paired with it beautifully.

The menu at Esca changes with the seasons. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Esca Bimbadgen delivered one of the best meals I’ve had in the Hunter. The award-winning fine dining restaurant’s menu changes with the seasons, and you can choose between the Signature Experience, which includes five courses and a wine pairing option or select from the à la carte menu. We opted for the latter and chose garlic buttered king prawns with romesco and capers; kingfish ceviche topped with sesame dressing, tomato water, strawberries and bonito flakes; and shared rosé panna cotta with candied pastry, rhubarb and macerated strawberries for dessert.

Build your own gourmet platter to enjoy alongside a tasting at Emma’s Cottage. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Emma’s Cottage, Bimbadgen’s other cellar door, serves up a build-your-own grazing platter to dine in or take away. The menu features Binnorie Cheese, salumi tuffle, Hunter Valley Foods quince paste, Pepe Sayo butter, Mount Zero mixed olives, as well as fresh baguettes, crackers, chutneys and more. But I’d recommend staying and enjoying your platter with a tasting of the Alter Wines, Bimbadgen’s alter ego; here, the winemakers get to be a bit more experimental with what they produce, with excellent results.

Does The Lane Retreat have access for guests with disabilities?

Yes. The Studio Retreat – Accessible features a fully accessible room and bathroom.

Is the Lane Retreat family-friendly?

The lakeside views are pretty even in the rain. (Image: Katie Carlin)

Families are welcome to book. The studio retreats are designed to sleep two and are more suited to couples or friends, but each studio is clustered together with three or four others, so you’ll be accommodated well when travelling as a group or for a multi-generational family getaway.

Is the Lane Retreat pet-friendly?

Dogs are welcome at The Lane Retreat for an additional fee per night. There are also terms and conditions to abide by.

Does the Lane Retreat offer wedding accommodation?

Yes. The Lane Retreat can accommodate up to 120 guests across 58 individual retreats. They also offer a Bridal Preparation Suite for the day, and if you host your wedding at Bimbadgen Palmers Lane venue, guests get a discounted rate for their stay.

Details

Friends by the firepit at The Lane Retreat

Take advantage of the winter escape package.

Best for: Romantic winery stays or Hunter Valley wedding accommodation

Address: 409 Palmers Lane, Pokolbin, NSW

Getting there: The Lane Retreat is a 2.5-hour drive north of Sydney. Newcastle Airport is a 50-minute drive from the Hunter Valley and direct flights are available from Melbourne, Brisbane and Adelaide.

Price: The Lane Retreat is currently offering The Winter Escape Package, priced from $341 per night when staying a minimum of two nights in a premium studio retreat. The package also includes breakfast provisions for two people, a bottle of Bimbadgen Shiraz, a S’mores Kit to toast by the outdoor fire pit, a wood-fired pizza lunch at Bimbadgen for two and a late checkout until noon. The offer is subject to availability, some blackout dates apply and is valid for stays until August 31, 2025.

Check-in process: You check in online prior to arrival and receive a unique code to access your studio (twin share and fully accessible options are also available).

Discover the best things to do in the Hunter Valley while you’re there.

Australia’s first wine region reveals its undiscovered side