What it’s like to stay at Lord Howe Island’s most exclusive resort

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With its remote location, pristine environment, and restricted visitor numbers, UNESCO heritage listed Lord Howe Island is a dream destination for many, with Capella Lodge its most coveted resort.

Lord Howe Island is exclusive by its very nature. Positioned in the Tasman Sea, approximately 600km from the east coast of mainland Australia, the remote island paradise that’s been likened to Hawaii and labelled the ‘Galapagos of the South’ is rich with unique flora and fauna, and bountiful marine life contained within the world’s southernmost coral reef.

Caps to visitor numbers keep it this way but also ensure enough resources to sustain both island residents and holidaymakers alike. Because of this, accommodation styles are boutique and in high demand, especially Lord Howe Island’s most premium resort offering, Capella Lodge.

One of five luxurious Baillie Lodges dotted around Australia, and one of nine throughout the world, Capella Lodge aims to provide guests with a first-class connection to Lord Howe Island’s unique surrounds.

But what’s it really like to stay there? I checked into the resort’s Catalina suite to find out.

Location

an aerial view of Lord Howe Island
Be surrounded by secluded coves, beautiful peaks and beaches on Lord Howe Island.

Located at the far southwest of the island, which measures just 11km long and 2.8km at its widest point, Capella Lodge is positioned about as close to the foot of Lord Howe Island’s iconic peaks as you can get to appreciate the full majesty of Mount Lidgbird and Mount Gower.

Its elevated position on the hillside above ‘Lovers Bay’, means there are spectacular views of the South Pacific Ocean as well as neighbouring green pastures below.

Upon arrival, I acquaint myself with these views further on Gower’s Terrace – the deck area of the resort’s restaurant and bar. Welcome refreshments include a cold face towel scented with essential oils and a glass of champagne, though I opt for some fresh mango juice which is brought to me with some chicken and vegetable rice paper rolls.

Afterwards, I rise from my sunlounger to take a dip in the plunge pool, where I gaze out to lush kentia palms covering the mountainsides and surf breaking over the lagoon’s coral reef. It’s a communal space on the terrace, but expansive views plus only a handful of other guests about make it feel like I have the whole place to myself.

Style and character

the balcony on Capella Lodge overlooking the scenic views of Lord Howe Island
A stay at Capella Lodge will reward you with absolute bliss.

Inspired by the classic Aussie beach house and conceived by architect Justin Long in collaboration with interior architects Pike Withers, Capella Lodge’s design is light-filled and free flowing, with floor-to-ceiling windows, rustic timbers, and a blue and while colour scheme throughout. Inside, you’ll find works by Mambo artist Bruce Goold and handprinted fabrics and woodcuts by Julie Paterson.

It’s a theme that extends to the resort’s nine barefoot luxury suites which are separated from the main pavilion by boardwalks and tropical gardens. On the way to my suite, I spot an outdoor shower in one of these garden nooks – perfect for washing off sand after a trip to the beach.

The atmosphere here is also blissfully relaxed and without any of the stuffiness you might expect from a resort that comes with a price tag ranging from $1,900 to $4,800 a night.

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The room

the Catalina Suite at Capella Lodge, Lord Howe Island
The beach house-style Catalina Suite opens up to a lush balcony.

Suites at Capella Lodge range from introductory Capella Suites through to the resort’s top offering, Lidgbird Pavilion.

I’m staying in the Catalina Suite, which is split over two levels. Though perfect for families or groups of friends, I enjoy the extra space as I flit between upstairs and downstairs like one of the golden whistlers in the garden.

Upstairs, the loft-style bedroom comes with a king bed and an ensuite bathroom with products including handmade local soaps and Capella Spa toiletries. But it’s the prime views of the lagoon and Mounts Lidgbird and Gower that leave me awestruck. Plush armchairs positioned by the Juliet balcony entice you to linger here longer.

a hot tub surrounded by kentia palms and daybeds at Capella Lodge, Lord Howe Island
Step outside for a soothing dip in a hot tub surrounded by kentia palms.

Downstairs, there’s a second bedroom, a larger basalt stone bathroom with a rain shower, and a lounge area flowing to a decked courtyard. The outdoor space comes with daybeds and a hot tub surrounded by kentia palms, and after my full-day hike up Mount Gower the day before, I happily spend a few hours here, soaking tired muscles with a glass of Tasmanian sparkling. Along with other alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks from my in-room bar, there are goodies like freshly baked mini lemon meringues and chocolate chip Capella Cookies. My kitchenette also comes with other complimentary inclusions like gourmet cheeses, crackers, nuts, and herbal teas.

a look inside the Capella Suite, Lord Howe Island
The Capella Suite has a private deck that serves as a stylish refuge.

Like all Capella Lodge suites, mine comes with specially designed beds by AH Beard, a TV, a music system, wi-fi, a telephone with free calls anywhere in Australia, and a nightly ‘turndown’ service. It’s a lovely touch that adds an element of surprise when I return from dinner to find my room refreshed and the wonderful aroma that wafts from an oil burner glowing beneath dimmed lights.

Facilities

a person dipping in the pool while overlooking views over Lovers Bay and the twin peaks, Mounts Gower and Lidgbird, at Capella Lodge
Revel in commanding views over Lovers Bay and the twin peaks.

You won’t find a gym at Capella Lodge, but I’m told you don’t need one as the whole island is a playground. You will find a plunge pool on the Gower Terrace though, and a range of relaxing and rejuvenating island-inspired treatments at Capella Spa. Following my post-hike hot tub soak, the Melody Massage using Australian-made alkeme products is heaven for shoulders and calves.

Filled with books, board games, a fireplace, and sublime views, Kentia Lounge is perfect for those wanting to relax or socialise with other guests indoors, while for those who want outdoor adventure, Capella Lodge offers complimentary mountain bikes or e-bike and e-buggy hire for exploring the island.

sunloungers by the pool at Capella Lodge, Lord Howe Island
Soak up panoramic views of the island while lazing on sunloungers.

Backpacks and beach towels are also provided in suites for guest use, while beach umbrellas and chairs are available on request from reception.

With an Island Expeditions service offered at an extra charge, Capella Lodge can also provide a packed lunch to take on a hike or tour. Likewise, ready-made picnics or BBQ packs are available for those wanting to use the BBQ facilities dotted throughout the island.

I decide to go snorkelling at Ned’s Beach and opt to have my snorkel and fins delivered ahead of me, which makes my bike ride light and easy.

Complimentary airport transfers are available for guests, and there’s the option for chartered flights from the mainland at an extra cost.

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Food and drink

the Capella Restaurant with views of Lord Howe Island
The restaurant has floor-to-ceiling windows that deliver dramatic views of Lord Howe Island.

At sunset, I make my way to Capella Bar for the full selection of drinks and canapes included in guest rates. I choose a gin and tonic made with gin from the island’s distiller, Lord Howe Island Distilling Co. I then make my way to Gower’s Terrace to mingle with other guests before moving inside for dinner.

With a menu that changes daily, Capella Restaurant combines fresh island seafood and specialties with regional produce from the mainland. With the option to choose from an a la carte menu or four courses with matching wine, I opt for the latter and enjoy dishes curated by Capella Lodge’s executive chef, Dennis Tierney.

seafood and regional produce being served at Capella Restaurant
The menu combines fresh island seafood and specialties with regional produce.

Paired with a riesling from the Clare Valley, I start with scallop ceviche with sepia pearls, edamame and coconut, followed by a watermelon salad served with pistachio, pomegranate, rosewater, labneh and nasturtium. It’s an interesting clash of textures and flavours that somehow works just perfectly. My main is pork loin served with leek, pear, snake beans, and nasturtium. It’s paired wonderfully with an aged Tasmanian Cabernet Merlot. Finally, dessert is a mixture of chocolate, caramel and peanut, served in a shell of puffed rice. I can’t fault a thing and, feeling completely satisfied, I drift back to my suite.

I return the next morning, where breakfast consists of a choice of fresh daily juice or a specialty smoothie, lodge-baked pastries and fruits, and a choice from the a la carte selection. I go for fresh orange juice, granola with kiwi fruit yoghurt and poached eggs on sourdough with smoked bacon and slow roasted tomatoes, followed by a flat white made from coffee by Di Lorenzo.

Is Capella Lodge family-friendly?

a woman relaxing in a hammock on the balcony of Capella Lodge, Lord Howe Island
The lodge boasts unbeatable views of the island. (Image: James Vodicka)

Capella Lodge doesn’t cater for families with young children, but kids over 10 are welcome. Notably, the resort’s Catalina suite is perfect for families with the second bedroom on the ground floor giving options for king or twin beds.

Access for guests with disabilities?

Not specifically designed for people with disabilities, Capella Lodge’s suites are accessed via a boardwalk with stairs along the way. Guests with mobility limitations are advised to book the single-level Capella Suite. The main lodge, restaurant and outdoor terrace are on a single level.

Details

Best for: Couples, nature enthusiasts

Address: Lagoon Rd, Lord Howe Island

Cost: From $1900 per night

Bonita Grima
Bonita Grima is a freelance travel writer with a background in television and radio production. With a passion for immersive storytelling, Bonita believes travel has the power to challenge, inspire and educate us, and encourage empathy by providing a window into the worlds of others. Based in Margaret River, when not working on a story, you’ll find her at the beach, on a trail, drinking great coffee, discovering what’s new around town, or simply dreaming up the next adventure!
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3 vintage train journeys to step back in time and explore NSW

(Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

From country landscapes to the coast, Vintage Rail Journeys blends the grandeur of the golden age of rail travel with immersive local experiences.

Travelling aboard the historic Southern Aurora train is the ultimate scenic journey through regional NSW. Operated by Vintage Rail Journeys, the former Southern Aurora is a step back in time, from the lovingly restored carriages to the Off Train Experiences that spotlight local history, artisanal crafts and regional producers.

Once the overnight express that ferried passengers between Sydney and Melbourne throughout the 1960s, this train has been revived to its former mid-century glory, from the cabin layouts to the original lettering. Today, the train takes passengers on scenic and historic five-day journeys – starting and ending in Sydney – through three distinct regions of NSW: The Riverina, Golden West and North Coast.

Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train carriage
Be transported into the golden age of travel. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

One of the most magical parts of travelling with Vintage Rail Journeys is waking up on the train. Each night, the train stables at a station so guests can enjoy a restful night’s sleep in stillness, before departing again at dawn. Passengers awake to the gentle motion of the carriage, flicking open the blinds to watch the landscape unfold at sunrise. There is no better way to start the day.

The onboard experience come evening time is just as picturesque. Guests enjoy the all-inclusive food and beverages, nursing cocktails in the Art Deco-inspired lounge carriage or lingering over a three-course dinner in the dining carriage. Outside the window, Eastern grey kangaroos bound across open plains and flocks of cockatoos scatter from the gumtrees. It’s an old-world way of travelling, a slower pace that’s increasingly rare amid the frenzy of modern life. From coastal sojourns to adventures through agrarian landscapes, these are the multi-day Vintage Rail Journeys itineraries transporting guests back in time.

The Riverina

Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train travelling through nsw
Travel through the agricultural heartland of NSW. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

The Riverina is the agricultural heartland of NSW. Over five days, Vintage Rail Journeys takes passengers through the region to experience its celebrated produce, wines and local history. Travelling in a loop through the Central West, guests can sample sweets at the Junee Liquorice & Chocolate Factory, housed inside a former flour mill, tour an olive grove alongside a second-generation olive farmer, and enjoy tastings at family-owned wineries where the grapes are harvested mere metres away.

The Riverina is also a region shaped by passionate local historians. The Fairground Follies museum in Bowral houses one of the world’s largest collections of mechanical music and carnival memorabilia – a riot of colour and nostalgia tucked away where you’d least expect it. Meanwhile, Temora Rural Museum offers a glimpse into the history of everyday life in rural NSW. It’s home to the NSW & ACT Ambulance Museum (yes, a museum within a museum), packed with ambulances that span the past 120 years (including horse-drawn!). And seeing it all aboard a vintage train makes it feel not just like you’re visiting history, but living inside of it.

North Coast

Forest Sky Pier
Take in the views from Forest Sky Pier. (Credit: Destination NSW)

This five-day journey is all about ocean views and slowing down in tune with the rhythm of coastal life. As you make your way north from Sydney, the water is never too far from sight, whether Vintage Rail Journeys is tracing the Gloucester River or travelling alongside sweeping stretches of coastline. You’ll want to sit by a window as the train passes through the Coffs Harbour region – it’s one of the most scenic stretches of the whole journey.

Guests can also disembark at Coffs Harbour to take in the beauty of the Great Dividing Range at the Forest Sky Pier – a surreal lookout point that looks like a runway disappearing into the sky. The train continues onward to Byron Bay, where guests can disembark to explore the iconic beach town at their own pace. And on the return journey to Sydney, keep your eyes peeled for dolphins – they’re known to frequent the Kooragang Wetlands near Newcastle, which guests visit on a lunch cruise on the final day.

Golden West

winery experience in new south wales
Jump off the train for a winery experience. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

Travelling through the Golden West by rail is like stepping into a Frederick McCubbin painting – a nod to the golden era of rail travel. This five-day journey evokes the era of Australian Impressionism, passing through some of the country’s most painterly landscapes while tracing a path through history.

Starting in Sydney, the train makes its way to the Hawkesbury River, where the train crosses a historic rail bridge over the bronze, glassy waters below. Guests disembark here to cruise the brackish inlet aboard a historic postal boat before returning to the train to continue into Gold Rush country. Ahead lie grand heritage towns and historic estates, including the 1870s Abercrombie House in Bathurst.

Special event journeys

meal onboard Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train
Enjoy all-inclusive dining and beverages on the way to special events. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

Regional NSW is home to some truly one-of-a-kind events, and Vintage Rail Journeys offers a memorable way to get there. Planning a trip to the Bathurst Repco 1000? Vintage Rail Journeys’ special itinerary combines accommodation, dining and transport into one seamless experience. Guests take the scenic route to Bathurst, where the train becomes a unique home base for the event, complete with transfers, all-inclusive dining and beverages, and three days of reserved grandstand seating before returning to Sydney Central Station.

For something a little more playful, guests can also join fellow Elvis enthusiasts on a special overnight journey to Parkes for the town’s iconic annual Elvis Festival. It’s a vintage rail journey – with a little added rock ‘n’ roll.

Step back into the golden age of rail travel at vintagerailjourneys.com.au.