With its lush, green landscape folding into a quirky, historic townscape, there’s a certain magic to this hinterland hub that speaks to Imogen Eveson. And to you, voting it n0. 44 in your pick of Top 50 Aussie Towns.
For me, Bellingen might just be the perfect town. Perhaps that’s because I grew up in Glastonbury, New Age capital of England, so I feel right at home with Bello’s bohemian vibes.
On the Traditional Lands of the Gumbaynggir people, it lies on the wide and beautiful Bellinger River in verdant hinterland halfway between Sydney and Brisbane (and 30 minutes’ drive south-west of Coffs Harbour along the Waterfall Way).
Breathe in the majestic hinterland. (Image: Destination NSW)
The town prospered as a dairy farming community in the early 20th century – the rich soils of the surrounding valley plus ample sunshine and rainfall ensuring good pastureland – before an influx of people seeking an alternative lifestyle in the 1970s and ’80s weaved in DNA that changed its trajectory.
This hippie history is documented in a film, Bellingen – The Promised Land, that I watch one evening at the Art Deco Memorial Hall, and is evident today in eclectic shops like the Hemp Store and community-minded spaces like cafe, restaurant and live music venue 5 Church Street.
Bellingen is a place that will defy anyone not to contemplate a tree change when they visit, and this has been happening in earnest for the past couple of decades. Hippie has turned hipster and visitors today also have a range of boutique shops to browse and smart eateries to frequent.
Stroll the town’s heritage streetscape. (Image: Destination NSW)
Housed in a beautifully restored old timber church, Cedar Bar & Kitchen is the go-to spot for wine and nibbles or a refined share-plate meal on Fridays and Saturdays; sample craft beers and pizza in a converted factory at artisan brewery and boutique bar Bellingen Brewing Co. , and head to Tish Faco Cantina at happy hour for $6.50 tacos, schooners and frozen margaritas.
Stop for a craft beer and pizza at Bellingen Brewing Co. (Image: Destination NSW)
I spend a disproportionate amount of time sheltering from summer rain in Hyde Bellingen , drinking soy flat whites at its cafe and cultivating an interest in expensive flax linen sleepwear at its boutique.
But despite these trimmings, you can’t beat a classic country pub complete with generously proportioned bistro meals: in this, the 1901 Federal Hotel more than delivers.
The pull of Bellingen, of course, extends way beyond the heritage streetscape and busy roster of markets and festivals. It’s the landscape that inspires the creativity that drives the town and provides outdoor adventures aplenty: seek out swimming holes, kayak and canoe the river, and follow the Waterfall Way to the heritage-listed Dorrigo National Park.
Kayak the river with Bellingen Canoe Adventures. (Image: Destination NSW)
There’s an unknowable magic stitched into that confluence of rolling green and winding water. One that keeps pulling me, and many others, back.
Imogen Eveson is Australian Traveller’s Print Editor. She was named Editor of the Year at the 2024 Mumbrella Publish Awards and in 2023, was awarded the Cruise Line Industry Association (CLIA) Australia’s Media Award. Before joining Australian Traveller Media as sub-editor in 2017, Imogen wrote for publications including Broadsheet, Russh and SilverKris. She launched her career in London, where she graduated with a BA Hons degree in fashion communication from world-renowned arts and design college Central Saint Martins. She is the author/designer of The Wapping Project on Paper, published by Black Dog Publishing in 2014. Growing up in Glastonbury, home to the largest music and performing arts festival in the world, instilled in Imogen a passion for cultural cross-pollination that finds perfect expression today in shaping Australia’s leading travel titles. Imogen regularly appears as a guest on radio travel segments, including ABC National Nightlife, and is invited to attend global travel expos such as IMM, ILTM, Further East and We Are Africa.
Sunshine, sea breezes and sand-speckled locals: the Sutherland Shire is perfect for an idyllic Sydney summer.
The Sutherland Shire is one of Sydney’s most dynamic regions. Home to an eclectic mix of top-notch eateries and drinking holes, a flourishing arts scene, and striking land and seascapes, it’s a haven for foodies, culture seekers and outdoor enthusiasts alike.
It’s also an ever-evolving destination with a constant wave of new places to eat and drink, and under-the-radar pockets to explore – many of which are dog-friendly.
If you’re venturing to this gorgeous part of the world this summer, here’s your guide to what’s new and worth discovering.
Savour the summer dining scene
Pop into Fred’s After Hours.
The Shire’s buzzing dining scene is one of its biggest drawcards, and many of the region’s culinary highlights can be found in the sun-soaked beachside hub of Cronulla. A bunch of newcomers have recently set up shop, making the area ripe for culinary adventure.
Homer Rogue Taverna is exactly as its name suggests: a cheeky take on classic Greek food. Expect meze and mains bursting with bold flavours and a wine list packed with standout Greek drops.
Freds Providore – a Cronulla favourite for casual cafe fare and excellent coffee – is now open late from Thursday to Sunday. Come sundown, it morphs into Fred’s After Hours, serving a refined European-inspired menu, wines, cocktails and a laid-back yet polished vibe.
Bobbys is a slick destination right on Cronulla Beach, where you can grab a plate of freshly-caught seafood and a summery cocktail while cooling off in the sea breeze.
And if you’re after a bit of everything, the sprawling and multifaceted Parc Pavilion is a melting pot of dining experiences. It blends a cafe, bistro, bar, Italian restaurant and a host of regular events, all tied together in a cool coastal setting.
Got a Saturday morning to spare? The Shire Farmers Market in Sutherland is a must-do ritual, letting you (and your four-legged friend) browse fresh produce, flowers and gourmet treats against a backdrop of live music and local chatter.
Dive into ocean pools
The ocean pools beckon.
Given its prime coastal positioning, the Shire teems with crystal-clear ocean pools and enclosed bathing spots. Silver Beach Tidal Baths offers a netted
swimming experience in Botany Bay. Tucked beside a small sandy beach, the tidal baths at Gunnamatta Park are calm and shallow – making them an ideal setting for less confident swimmers.
Just a hop and a skip away is Shelly Park Ocean Pool, a magical rock pool carved in the ocean. It’s well-suited to young kids and offers sweeping views towards the open sea.
Experience local arts and culture
See the art at Hazelhurst Arts Centre, then enjoy a picnic with or without your pooch.
Hazelhurst Arts Centre in Gymea is elegantly positioned within a lush garden landscape, serving as the Sutherland Shire’s premier destination for arts and culture. This summer, experience the Art on Paper Award 2025 – a celebration of innovation and creativity through the versatile medium of paper.
Set within the leafy surrounds of Hazelhurst Arts Centre, Hazel Kitchen & Bar has curated the ultimate picnic experience. Think abundant cheese platters, artisan charcuterie boards, fresh OJ and a thoughtfully chosen wine list, all available to take away and enjoy in the art-filled gardens just beyond the restaurant. Best of all, four-legged friends are welcome to join the fun.
Next, venture south to the artsy village of Bundeena for the monthly Bundeena and Maianbar Art Trail . This self-guided journey through local artists’ studios offers a glimpse into their work and creative spaces.
Relish the dog-friendly atmosphere
Let the dog off-leash at Greenhills Dog Beach.
The Sutherland Shire is a bona fide playground for pups and their humans. Find a string of dog-friendly beaches popular with locals, visitors and pups alike. Silver Beach in Kurnell is a peaceful pocket, allowing dogs off-leash without restriction. While Horderns Beach in Bundeena and Greenhills Beach in Cronulla are equally serene and provide off-leash access (be sure to check times and seasonal restrictions before you go).
If you’re planning to make a weekend of it, book yourself and your pooch into Quest Cronulla . With stylish and spacious pet-friendly accommodation, thoughtful amenities, and a prime location just steps from Cronulla Esplanade and a variety of dog-friendly cafes, it’s the perfect spot to rest after a full day of exploring.
Get into nature
Find natural beauty in Royal National Park. (Image: Destination NSW)
You’re spoiled for choice when it comes to outdoor escapes: imagine rugged bushwalks, breezy beachside tracks, meandering cycling trails and lookouts galore. The best part? Many of them are perfectly suited to dogs.
Take your canine to Cronulla Esplanade – the Shire’s version of the famed Bondi to Coogee Walk. This eight-kilometre route takes you past the region’s most picturesque beaches, offering panoramic vistas and an electric energy. It heaves with locals every morning and weekend, getting their steps in with a coffee in one hand and a dog leash in the other.
If you’re travelling without furry friends, stop by the Royal National Park. You’ll be engulfed in ancient bushland, craggy cliffs, towering rock formations, diverse wildlife and twisting tracks. The Jibbon Loop Track is a highlight, with spectacular views over the sea. Alternatively, the Karloo Track forms a loop that winds through untamed bush, freshwater pools and waterfalls. Re-lace your walking shoes or grab a bike to follow The Bundeena Drive to Marley Walk past freshwater pools and creeks, on to scenic beach views of Little Marley Beach.
The stretch along Cronulla bursts with postcard-perfect beaches, each offering a different flavour. With rolling waves, regular patrol and a steady stream of beachgoers, Cronulla Beach and North Cronulla Beach are buzzy and built for all kinds of swimmers. Elouera Beach is a quieter option, attracting early-morning surfers hoping to catch the perfect wave.
If you prefer a side of dramatic scenery, visit Wanda or Greenhills – in addition to ocean panoramas, both are backed by towering golden dunes and wild scrub. Looking for something more subdued? Shelly Beach Ocean Pool is a relaxed – yet no less captivating – retreat.
