This underrated NSW hike takes you through 2 coastal national parks

By Emily Murphy
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This little-known coastal track is hiding in plain sight. 

Tucked between South West Rocks and the sleepy surf hamlet of Hat Head lies a walking trail so wild and scenic, it cuts through not one but two coastal NSW national parks – and somehow still flies under the radar. 

The Smoky Cape Range Walking Track is the kind of walk that makes you feel like you’ve truly earned your morning coffee. This 5.5-kilometre one-way track winds through a ridgeline flanked by Arakoon and Hat Head national parks, offering sweeping ocean views, rugged terrain, rainforest pockets and a side of convict history for good measure. 

If you haven’t heard of it, you’re not alone – this little-known walk is one of the most underrated on the Mid North Coast. 

Two national parks, one unforgettable walk 

Little Bay picnic area in Arakoon National Park

Start at Little Bay picnic area in Arakoon National Park. (Image: Michael Van Ewijk/DCCEEW)

Starting near the historic Overshot Dam at Little Bay picnic area in Arakoon National Park, the trail ascends through coastal heathlands, rainforests and grassy woodlands. As you traverse the ridge, you’ll transition into Hat Head National Park, where the landscape shifts to lush rainforests and expansive ocean vistas. The trail culminates at the iconic Smoky Cape Lighthouse, perched dramatically above the Pacific Ocean. 

This walk is not just a physical journey but also a cultural one. The land holds deep significance for the Dunghutti people, the Traditional Custodians of the area. Walking through these parks offers a chance to reflect on the rich Aboriginal heritage and the natural beauty that has been preserved for generations. 

Wildlife and seasonal spectacles 

Eastern grey kangaroo at sunset beachside camping with great fishing and beaches perfect for whale watching and swimming in Arakoon National Park

Spot wildlife on the walk. (Image: Nick Cubbin/DCCEEW)

Depending on the season, the trail offers different natural spectacles. In spring, the heathlands burst into a kaleidoscope of wildflowers, attracting a variety of bird species.  

From May to November, the cliffs become prime vantage points for whale watching, as humpback and southern right whales migrate along the coast. Keep an eye out for wallabies, echidnas and the occasional goanna basking in the sun. 

A lighthouse steeped in history

Smoky Cape Lighthouse, Smoky Cape, South West Rocks, Hat Head National Park

Smoky Cape Lighthouse is one of the state’s tallest. (Image: Jessica Robertson/DCCEEW)

Upon reaching the Smoky Cape Lighthouse, you’re greeted by one of the tallest lighthouses in NSW, built in 1891. This heritage-listed structure offers not only a sweeping 360-degree view of Hat Head National Park and the wild coast below but also a glimpse into maritime history.  

For those interested in delving deeper, the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service offers guided tours of the lighthouse. Led by knowledgeable rangers, these 45-minute tours provide insights into the lighthouse’s history and operations. Tours are scheduled on select dates throughout the year, and bookings are essential.  

Even better? There’s a car park nearby, so if you want to do the track one way, you can arrange a pick-up at the lighthouse end and make it a point-to-point hike instead of an out-and-back. 

Stay a little longer 

Kangaroo in front of Smoky Cape Lighthouse, Smoky Cape, South West Rocks, Hat Head National Park

You can stay at the Smoky Cape Lighthouse Keepers’ Cottages. (Image: Robert Mulally/DCCEEW)

To fully immerse yourself in the area’s charm, consider staying at the Smoky Cape Lighthouse Keepers’ Cottages. This historic accommodation offers both bed and breakfast and self-contained options, providing a unique opportunity to stay in a working lighthouse precinct. Situated high above Smoky Beach, the cottages are perfect for whale watching in winter and enjoying the tranquillity of the national park year-round. 

What to know before you go

Views of North Smoky Beach from Smoky Cape Lighthouse in Hat Head National Park, Arakoon

This walk is best suited for those with bushwalking experience. (Image: Destination NSW)

This is a Grade 4 trail, meaning it’s best suited to fit walkers with some bushwalking experience. You’ll want decent footwear, plenty of water and a charged phone with offline maps. 

There’s not much signage, so download a trail map ahead of time or use AllTrails. It’s around two to three hours one-way if you take your time to stop at the scenic points (and you should). 

Note: Limited mobile reception in some areas; plan accordingly. 

Make a weekend of it 

Screw Pine Trees (Pandanus tectorius var. australianus), also known as Beach Pandan or Breadfruit are scattered along the rocky headlands along the Little Bay to Smoky Cape track in Hat Head National Park

Make the most of your time in the region. (Image: John Spencer/DCCEEW)

South West Rocks is the perfect base for this walk, with beachfront holiday parks, cosy cabins and local cafes to refuel in after your hike. Add in a sunset swim at Trial Bay or a visit to the hauntingly beautiful ruins of Trial Bay Gaol, and you’ve got yourself one very memorable nature escape. 

Not many walks let you cross between two national parks, pass a heritage lighthouse and feel like you’ve got the whole place to yourself. But this one does. And it’s right there, hiding in plain sight. 

Emily Murphy is Australian Traveller's Email & Social Editor, and in her time at the company she has been instrumental in shaping its social media and email presence, and crafting compelling narratives that inspire others to explore Australia's vast landscapes. Her previous role was a journalist at Prime Creative Media and before that she was freelancing in publishing, content creation and digital marketing. When she's not creating scroll-stopping travel content, Em is a devoted 'bun mum' and enjoys spending her spare time by the sea, reading, binge-watching a good TV show and exploring Sydney's vibrant dining scene. Next on her Aussie travel wish list? Tasmania and The Kimberley.
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This NSW coastal walk has secluded beaches, wildflowers and whale watching

    By Emily Murphy
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    Rugged headlands, hidden beaches and sweeping ocean views.

    Tucked inside Hat Head National Park, Connors Walking Track is one of those quintessential North Coast hikes that rewards you at every turn. Beginning near the famous Trial Bay Gaol at South West Rocks, the 3.7-kilometre one-way trail hugs the clifftops and leads walkers across windswept headlands, heathland and shaded forest before spilling out onto the golden arc of Gap Beach.

    Why it’s worth the walk

    This isn’t a trek that demands heavy boots or a packed lunch; it’s a short hike you can squeeze into a morning or afternoon. But don’t be fooled: what it lacks in distance, it makes up for in difficulty. The coastal walk is on a relatively rough track, with short, steep hills, occasional steps and natural obstacles along the way.

    You’ll pass lookouts with front-row views over the Pacific Ocean, and in whale season (May to November), you might even catch the telltale blow of a humpback passing offshore. The trail weaves through banksia and eucalypt forest before opening onto exposed headlands where the sea breeze is at its fiercest. At its finish, Gap Beach is a wild, unpatrolled stretch of sand that feels a world away from South West Rocks.

    How to do it

    Scenic coastal views from Little Bay Picnic Area, South West Rocks

    You can start the walk from Little Bay picnic area. (Image: Destination NSW)

    Start the walk from Trial Bay Gaol or Little Bay picnic area and allow one to two hours one way. Some hikers opt for a return trip, while others arrange a pick-up at the other end to keep things easy. The track is well-marked, but you’ll need some bushwalking experience and a moderate level of fitness to tackle the steep sections and sandy approach to the beach.

    If you’ve got more energy to burn, Connors Walking Track connects with other trails in Hat Head National Park, including the Smoky Cape Range Walking Track, giving you options to extend your adventure.

    Need-to-know

    Green hills covered with juicy grass by the ocean, beautiful beach surrounded by cliffs in Australia, Connors Beach in Hat Head National Park, NSW

    Connors Walking Track is a must-do hike in northern NSW. (Image: Getty Images / Jakub Maculewicz)

    Distance: 3.7 kilometres one way
    Time: 1-2 hours
    Difficulty: Grade 4
    Experience required: Yes
    Start/finish: Trial Bay Gaol or Gap Beach
    Best for: Coastal views, whale spotting, wildflowers

    Connors Walking Track is one of the North Coast’s most rewarding short hikes, a chance to lace up your shoes and, in under two hours, be transported from historic ruins to windswept headlands to an untouched stretch of sand. If you’re heading to South West Rocks, consider this your must-do walk.