This underrated NSW hike takes you through 2 coastal national parks

Emily Murphy Emily Murphy
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This little-known coastal track is hiding in plain sight. 

Tucked between South West Rocks and the sleepy surf hamlet of Hat Head lies a walking trail so wild and scenic, it cuts through not one but two coastal NSW national parks – and somehow still flies under the radar. 

The Smoky Cape Range Walking Track is the kind of walk that makes you feel like you’ve truly earned your morning coffee. This 5.5-kilometre one-way track winds through a ridgeline flanked by Arakoon and Hat Head national parks, offering sweeping ocean views, rugged terrain, rainforest pockets and a side of convict history for good measure. 

If you haven’t heard of it, you’re not alone – this little-known walk is one of the most underrated on the Mid North Coast. 

Two national parks, one unforgettable walk 

Little Bay picnic area in Arakoon National Park
Start at Little Bay picnic area in Arakoon National Park. (Image: Michael Van Ewijk/DCCEEW)

Starting near the historic Overshot Dam at Little Bay picnic area in Arakoon National Park, the trail ascends through coastal heathlands, rainforests and grassy woodlands. As you traverse the ridge, you’ll transition into Hat Head National Park, where the landscape shifts to lush rainforests and expansive ocean vistas. The trail culminates at the iconic Smoky Cape Lighthouse, perched dramatically above the Pacific Ocean. 

This walk is not just a physical journey but also a cultural one. The land holds deep significance for the Dunghutti people, the Traditional Custodians of the area. Walking through these parks offers a chance to reflect on the rich Aboriginal heritage and the natural beauty that has been preserved for generations. 

Wildlife and seasonal spectacles 

Eastern grey kangaroo at sunset beachside camping with great fishing and beaches perfect for whale watching and swimming in Arakoon National Park
Spot wildlife on the walk. (Image: Nick Cubbin/DCCEEW)

Depending on the season, the trail offers different natural spectacles. In spring, the heathlands burst into a kaleidoscope of wildflowers, attracting a variety of bird species.  

From May to November, the cliffs become prime vantage points for whale watching, as humpback and southern right whales migrate along the coast. Keep an eye out for wallabies, echidnas and the occasional goanna basking in the sun. 

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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A lighthouse steeped in history

Smoky Cape Lighthouse, Smoky Cape, South West Rocks, Hat Head National Park
Smoky Cape Lighthouse is one of the state’s tallest. (Image: Jessica Robertson/DCCEEW)

Upon reaching the Smoky Cape Lighthouse, you’re greeted by one of the tallest lighthouses in NSW, built in 1891. This heritage-listed structure offers not only a sweeping 360-degree view of Hat Head National Park and the wild coast below but also a glimpse into maritime history.  

For those interested in delving deeper, the NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service offers guided tours of the lighthouse . Led by knowledgeable rangers, these 45-minute tours provide insights into the lighthouse’s history and operations. Tours are scheduled on select dates throughout the year, and bookings are essential.  

Even better? There’s a car park nearby, so if you want to do the track one way, you can arrange a pick-up at the lighthouse end and make it a point-to-point hike instead of an out-and-back. 

Stay a little longer 

Kangaroo in front of Smoky Cape Lighthouse, Smoky Cape, South West Rocks, Hat Head National Park
You can stay at the Smoky Cape Lighthouse Keepers’ Cottages. (Image: Robert Mulally/DCCEEW)

To fully immerse yourself in the area’s charm, consider staying at the Smoky Cape Lighthouse Keepers’ Cottages . This historic accommodation offers both bed and breakfast and self-contained options, providing a unique opportunity to stay in a working lighthouse precinct. Situated high above Smoky Beach, the cottages are perfect for whale watching in winter and enjoying the tranquillity of the national park year-round. 

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What to know before you go

Views of North Smoky Beach from Smoky Cape Lighthouse in Hat Head National Park, Arakoon
This walk is best suited for those with bushwalking experience. (Image: Destination NSW)

This is a Grade 4 trail, meaning it’s best suited to fit walkers with some bushwalking experience. You’ll want decent footwear, plenty of water and a charged phone with offline maps. 

There’s not much signage, so download a trail map ahead of time or use AllTrails. It’s around two to three hours one-way if you take your time to stop at the scenic points (and you should). 

Note: Limited mobile reception in some areas; plan accordingly. 

Make a weekend of it 

Screw Pine Trees (Pandanus tectorius var. australianus), also known as Beach Pandan or Breadfruit are scattered along the rocky headlands along the Little Bay to Smoky Cape track in Hat Head National Park
Make the most of your time in the region. (Image: John Spencer/DCCEEW)

South West Rocks is the perfect base for this walk, with beachfront holiday parks, cosy cabins and local cafes to refuel in after your hike. Add in a sunset swim at Trial Bay or a visit to the hauntingly beautiful ruins of Trial Bay Gaol, and you’ve got yourself one very memorable nature escape. 

Not many walks let you cross between two national parks, pass a heritage lighthouse and feel like you’ve got the whole place to yourself. But this one does. And it’s right there, hiding in plain sight. 

Emily Murphy
Emily Murphy is Australian Traveller's Email & Social Editor, and in her time at the company she has been instrumental in shaping its social media and email presence, and crafting compelling narratives that inspire others to explore Australia's vast landscapes. Her previous role was a journalist at Prime Creative Media and before that she was freelancing in publishing, content creation and digital marketing. When she's not creating scroll-stopping travel content, Em is a devoted 'bun mum' and enjoys spending her spare time by the sea, reading, binge-watching a good TV show and exploring Sydney's vibrant dining scene. Next on her Aussie travel wish list? Tasmania and The Kimberley.
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Your guide to what’s new and exciting this summer on the Central Coast

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
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    From serene natural beauty to vibrant nightlife, with plenty of arts and culture in between, the NSW Central Coast has been enjoying a serious glow up.

    Just one hour from Sydney, the Central Coast has long been the perfect seaside getaway. And with its ECO Destination certification with a focus on sustainability, it’s a trip travellers can feel good about, too. Recently, new and exciting openings have turned the Central Coast into a place where incredible natural beauty is still on the table, but so is a vibrant and sophisticated arts, dining and nightlife scene.

    Find out what’s new to discover on the Central Coast.

    1. Gosford’s glow up

    room at voco gosford
    Book into voco and experience the best of Gosford.

    Long-time Central Coast lovers will hardly recognise Gosford these days. While always boasting gorgeous water views, a range of revamps and new openings have turned it into a busy hub of arts and culture, with an increasingly diverse and vibrant nightlife.

    Landmark lifestyle hotel voco Gosford is the perfect home base for a Central Coast getaway. At this IHG hotel overlooking sparkling Brisbane Water, guests can spend sunny days soaking in the rooftop pool (or just sipping a cocktail beside it). When it comes to meals, you can enjoy multiple venues serving up everything from modern Australian fare to fine-dining Japanese.

    Venture out to lay eyes on the Central Coast’s first permanent Moving Image Gallery (MIG) . Opened this year inside the Gosford Regional Gallery , the immersive space is a showcase of screen-based and digital art. While at the gallery, wander around the Edogawa Commemorative Garden, a traditional Japanese strolling garden complete with teahouse, koi pond and an ornamental bridge.

    Meanwhile, the revamped Gosford Regional Library has even more than books to discover. Now, it’s one of the best in the southern hemisphere – find exhibitions, historical archives and community initiatives for all ages at this perfect family-friendly escape.

    2. Newcomers to the dining scene

    table full of food at Amarilla restaurant terrigal
    Treat yourself to sundowners and snacks at Amarilla.

    The Central Coast has long been the perfect destination for gourmands, with everything from casual eats to fine dining elevating the local offerings. And three new destinations have been added to the map.

    Amarilla at The Haven in Terrigal is the perfect seaside venue for sundowners, with blissed-out beats providing the soundtrack. Book in for golden hour and choose bites from a Spanish tapas menu made for sharing. Do as the locals do and wash it all down with sangria – the Sunday Sangria Sessions have become a local institution.

    Also in Terrigal, Little Miss has brought a premium Mediterranean menu to the waterfront. Try the wagyu tartare with Greek caviar or butter-poached lobster and tomato bisque, paired with inventive cocktails and a handpicked selection of Lebanese wines.

    Over in Ettalong, Bar Toto is perfect for pre- or post-dinner drinks. This award-winning cocktail bar is known for its creative concoctions, along with craft beer, wine and antipasti platters to snack on. The interior sets the mood, with dim lighting and wooden furnishings.

    3. New Central Coast experiences

    winemaker at Firescreek Botanical Winery
    Book an experience at Firescreek Botanical Winery.

    It’s entirely possible (and recommended) to spend a Central Coast getaway relaxing on one of its many peaceful and pristine beaches. But for those who crave more, there’s a long list of options to keep you busy.

    Pop into the iconic Australian Reptile Park to see the new Weigel Venom Centre, a state-of-the-art facility that’s home to over 200 of the country’s most venomous snakes.

    Get out on the water with Sail Central Coast , which offers 20 years of expertise in yacht charters. Book the Sunset Sail & Dine yacht charter for a private afternoon cruising the waterways of Bouddi National Park and Brisbane Water, stopping at Anchor on Hardys for a two-course meal with a cocktail.

    For something completely different, Firescreek Botanical Winery is now offering an Aboriginal Storytelling and Wine Tasting Experience. Learn about local cultures, stories and traditions from an Aboriginal Elder, then enjoy a botanical-inspired wine tasting led by a local winemaking expert.

    4. Central Coast accommodation

    view from a cottage at Noonaweena
    Sleep in the hinterland at Noonaweena.

    There’s simply too much to experience on the Central Coast to only stay for one day. Turn your trip into a relaxing getaway by the beach.

    Allawah , a retreat on the banks of the Hawkesbury River, is accessible only by boat. This secluded two-bedroom cottage is the perfect place to unwind, allowing you to spend lazy days fishing, kayaking, paddling or unwinding with a book on your own private jetty.

    In the Kulnura hinterland, Noonaweena features a range of accommodation styles, from a luxe glamping bell tent to cottages and a treetop suite. It’s a leader in green travel, with 10 years of certification from Eco Tourism Australia. Relax in the onsite wellness centre or get active on various courts and in the gym facilities.

    To stay by the ocean at Toowoon Bay, book into Kim’s Beachside Resort . This adults-only property offers a luxury escape nestled within a sub-tropical rainforest. Along with 36 private timber bungalows, indulge in massages or reiki treatments at the dedicated spa, or stop by the cocktail bar and à la carte restaurant.

    5. Shopping on the Central Coast

    Umina’s Centred Ceramics central coast
    Try your hand at Umina’s Centred Ceramics’ pottery courses.

    For those after unique trinkets, handmade treasures and beautiful homewares, the Central Coast is a haven.

    Markets on the Central Coast have a special flavour. Wander the Umina Beach Markets at twilight, where you’ll find small businesses from the local areas, and the Norah Head Ocean View Markets , where you can soak up good food, live music and artisan finds by the beach after sunset. ‘Tis the season for the Christmas twilight edition of the Avoca Beachside Markets, celebrating the season with pop-up bars, tasty treats and plenty of unique gift options from local artists and producers.

    Galleria Ettalong has also added to the Central Coast’s recent makers and creators renaissance, wrapping cinemas, a dining precinct and over 40 boutique shops into one area.

    Sign up for a pottery course at Umina’s Centred Ceramics , or peruse the shop for a range of one-of-a-kind pottery made on the premises for a special souvenir.

    For more eclectic arts and homewares, pop into Blue Bird Collective Co . This marketplace supports over 35 small, local and handmade businesses, artists and creatives. Take the time to check out fashion, jewellery and homewares that won’t be found anywhere else.

    Start planning your coastal getaway at lovecentralcoast.com .