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Found: a 1,000-bottle wine bar inside a secluded Northern Rivers rainforest retreat

Secluded by 250 acres of ancient rainforest, an ultra-romantic hideaway is harbouring a secret. A newly opened, impressively well-stocked wine cellar and bar, helmed by a hospitality veteran, is giving nature lovers another reason to head for the Tweed hinterland.

At Crystal Creek Rainforest Retreat, in Upper Crystal Creek in Northern New South Wales, guests wake to a gentle soundtrack of birdsong and the burbling creeks that slither across the landscape. While by night, they can unwind by a crackling fire in a lounge space that’s home to an expansive wine cellar brimming with top-notch drops.

Though it’s common to spot wildlife beyond the large glass windows that encase your spacious and contemporary cabin-esque accommodation at this rainforest-encircled retreat, it’s rare to cross paths with another human at this secluded spot. That is, unless you choose to set foot in the retreat’s new bar lounge and wine cellar, where you’re likely to meet Matt Semark, a hospitality stalwart and the property’s manager alongside his wife, Ani. Semark’s also responsible for curating the newly installed wine collection.

A two-level timber-clad wine cellar and bar with a pool table in the middle
The new bar lounge and wine cellar is a cosy spot to sample a range of drops from France to Australia.

“I’ve gotten a lot of enjoyment from recommending wines and hearing the positive comments from guests. I find our guests have more confidence going off-piste when we discuss their preferences and tastes one-on-one. Then I can recommend alternatives based on their personal tastes. From my culinary background and personal wine journey, I’ve learnt a fair bit along the way and do enjoy opening guests up to new wines," Semark says.

The cellar’s wines have a European leaning, based on Semark’s proclivity towards French and Italian varietals – though he has ensured there are plenty of top-notch Australian drops, too.

Semark says, “We’ve partnered with our good friend Doctor Justin Ardill, from South Australia’s Clare Valley, to offer a complimentary bottle of his wine – under the label Reillys Wines – to our guests. We also showcase nine styles of his delicious wines in our wine cellar, including his award-winning Riesling."

A timber wine cellar and bar with bar stools
The space features carefully crafted details embedded in handmade wooden furnishings.

Having recently relocated his family to the Northern Rivers from the Caribbean, Semark’s also ensured there’s a solid selection of rums (both local and Caribbean-sourced). And yet, teetotalers can rest assured they have been catered to, with an exciting choice of non-alcoholic drinks on hand, too.

In the bar and lounge spaces, and throughout the on-site accommodation, the eager eye will spot the carefully crafted details embedded in handmade wooden furnishings – with designs that reflect the abundant wildlife beyond each building’s walls. These well-made furniture pieces are the handiwork of Chris Ball, who owns the retreat alongside his antiques and furniture business.

Rainforest views from a suite at Crystal Creek Rainforest Retreat Bar Lounge and Wine Cellar
Crystal Creek Rainforest Retreat offers guests spectacular rainforest views.

Restless travellers can make the most of the retreat’s hiking trails that stretch across the large property – varying in difficulty – spanning 8 kilometres of rainforest. E-bikes are also available for those hoping to explore the region a little more widely, or wishing to visit a neighbouring cafe.

Guests can opt to soak in a heated plunge pool on their mountain-view lodge’s deck, fill a bath with hot water and aromatic bath salts, light their indoor fireplace, or lie back in a hammock suspended over the creek and while away a day immersed in this naturally striking setting.

Hammocks hanging over a creek at Crystal Creek Rainforest Retreat
Lie back in a hammock suspended over the creek.

Come nightfall, glow worms glitter on the creek’s edge, and guests are invited to grab a torch and a blanket to enjoy the natural light show.

Massages are available to book, as is the mollifying (and appetising) experience of a Creekside Pavilion Lunch. Like a treehouse cantilevered over a creek, the pavilion presents an ideal perch for leisurely daytime dining. Bathe in the cooling rockpools below, then enjoy antipasto and charcuterie platters accompanied by your drink of choice, before reclining on the sheltered daybed swaddled by nature – all set to the soundscape provided by the creek and rainforest.

A Luxury Mountain View Lodge Bedroom at Crystal Creek Rainforest Retreat
A Luxury Mountain View Lodge Bedroom.

While self-catering is an easy option, with well-equipped kitchens available to the avid cook, pre-ordered meals designed for private dining – think lamb shanks, tagines, curries and fajitas – can be discreetly delivered to your room on request. Barbecue hampers and picnic baskets make light work of lunches, and breakfast baskets are ideal for slow mornings (after a sleep-in, of course).

Despite its remote feel, Crystal Creek Rainforest Retreat is a short, 15-minute drive from the centre of Murwullimbah – a perfect spot to stock up on a snacks and comfort dishes from the likes of Kat Harvey Cheese, Pasta’bah, one of the town’s excellent bakeries, and coffee from Keith. On your way out, peruse its gift stores, art galleries and road-trip between its neighbouring towns.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Sonya Gellert
Sonya Gellert is a writer whose insatiable appetite has seen her travel the world in pursuit of great culinary experiences to share on the page (and plate). Sonya's been the travel editor at a national food magazine, a restaurant and hotel reviewer, a freelance lifestyle writer and a life-long glutton.
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3 vintage train journeys to step back in time and explore NSW

(Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

From country landscapes to the coast, Vintage Rail Journeys blends the grandeur of the golden age of rail travel with immersive local experiences.

Travelling aboard the historic Southern Aurora train is the ultimate scenic journey through regional NSW. Operated by Vintage Rail Journeys, the former Southern Aurora is a step back in time, from the lovingly restored carriages to the Off Train Experiences that spotlight local history, artisanal crafts and regional producers.

Once the overnight express that ferried passengers between Sydney and Melbourne throughout the 1960s, this train has been revived to its former mid-century glory, from the cabin layouts to the original lettering. Today, the train takes passengers on scenic and historic five-day journeys – starting and ending in Sydney – through three distinct regions of NSW: The Riverina, Golden West and North Coast.

Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train carriage
Be transported into the golden age of travel. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

One of the most magical parts of travelling with Vintage Rail Journeys is waking up on the train. Each night, the train stables at a station so guests can enjoy a restful night’s sleep in stillness, before departing again at dawn. Passengers awake to the gentle motion of the carriage, flicking open the blinds to watch the landscape unfold at sunrise. There is no better way to start the day.

The onboard experience come evening time is just as picturesque. Guests enjoy the all-inclusive food and beverages, nursing cocktails in the Art Deco-inspired lounge carriage or lingering over a three-course dinner in the dining carriage. Outside the window, Eastern grey kangaroos bound across open plains and flocks of cockatoos scatter from the gumtrees. It’s an old-world way of travelling, a slower pace that’s increasingly rare amid the frenzy of modern life. From coastal sojourns to adventures through agrarian landscapes, these are the multi-day Vintage Rail Journeys itineraries transporting guests back in time.

The Riverina

Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train travelling through nsw
Travel through the agricultural heartland of NSW. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

The Riverina is the agricultural heartland of NSW. Over five days, Vintage Rail Journeys takes passengers through the region to experience its celebrated produce, wines and local history. Travelling in a loop through the Central West, guests can sample sweets at the Junee Liquorice & Chocolate Factory, housed inside a former flour mill, tour an olive grove alongside a second-generation olive farmer, and enjoy tastings at family-owned wineries where the grapes are harvested mere metres away.

The Riverina is also a region shaped by passionate local historians. The Fairground Follies museum in Bowral houses one of the world’s largest collections of mechanical music and carnival memorabilia – a riot of colour and nostalgia tucked away where you’d least expect it. Meanwhile, Temora Rural Museum offers a glimpse into the history of everyday life in rural NSW. It’s home to the NSW & ACT Ambulance Museum (yes, a museum within a museum), packed with ambulances that span the past 120 years (including horse-drawn!). And seeing it all aboard a vintage train makes it feel not just like you’re visiting history, but living inside of it.

North Coast

Forest Sky Pier
Take in the views from Forest Sky Pier. (Credit: Destination NSW)

This five-day journey is all about ocean views and slowing down in tune with the rhythm of coastal life. As you make your way north from Sydney, the water is never too far from sight, whether Vintage Rail Journeys is tracing the Gloucester River or travelling alongside sweeping stretches of coastline. You’ll want to sit by a window as the train passes through the Coffs Harbour region – it’s one of the most scenic stretches of the whole journey.

Guests can also disembark at Coffs Harbour to take in the beauty of the Great Dividing Range at the Forest Sky Pier – a surreal lookout point that looks like a runway disappearing into the sky. The train continues onward to Byron Bay, where guests can disembark to explore the iconic beach town at their own pace. And on the return journey to Sydney, keep your eyes peeled for dolphins – they’re known to frequent the Kooragang Wetlands near Newcastle, which guests visit on a lunch cruise on the final day.

Golden West

winery experience in new south wales
Jump off the train for a winery experience. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

Travelling through the Golden West by rail is like stepping into a Frederick McCubbin painting – a nod to the golden era of rail travel. This five-day journey evokes the era of Australian Impressionism, passing through some of the country’s most painterly landscapes while tracing a path through history.

Starting in Sydney, the train makes its way to the Hawkesbury River, where the train crosses a historic rail bridge over the bronze, glassy waters below. Guests disembark here to cruise the brackish inlet aboard a historic postal boat before returning to the train to continue into Gold Rush country. Ahead lie grand heritage towns and historic estates, including the 1870s Abercrombie House in Bathurst.

Special event journeys

meal onboard Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train
Enjoy all-inclusive dining and beverages on the way to special events. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

Regional NSW is home to some truly one-of-a-kind events, and Vintage Rail Journeys offers a memorable way to get there. Planning a trip to the Bathurst Repco 1000? Vintage Rail Journeys’ special itinerary combines accommodation, dining and transport into one seamless experience. Guests take the scenic route to Bathurst, where the train becomes a unique home base for the event, complete with transfers, all-inclusive dining and beverages, and three days of reserved grandstand seating before returning to Sydney Central Station.

For something a little more playful, guests can also join fellow Elvis enthusiasts on a special overnight journey to Parkes for the town’s iconic annual Elvis Festival. It’s a vintage rail journey – with a little added rock ‘n’ roll.

Step back into the golden age of rail travel at vintagerailjourneys.com.au.