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The creative Tweed Valley town that’s becoming a cultural hotspot

Set between mountain and river in the Tweed Valley, the artful town of Murwillumbah was always destined to be cool.

Cradled in a caldera at the foot of Wollumbin (Mt Warning) and curling along beside the Tweed River, Murwillumbah is ahead of the game in terms of geographical assets.

But this 1840s-era town rises to meet its pretty landscape with an impressive assortment of Art Deco buildings – within which are housed an ever-increasing number of curated boutiques, cool artist studios and top-class eateries. Keep reading to discover the top things to do in Murwillumbah.

Could Murwillumbah be the Tweed’s coolest town?

Wollumbin (Mt Warning)
Wollumbin (Mt Warning) overlooks the streets of Murwillumbah.

For a long while, the time-warp buildings huddled along Wollumbin and Murwillumbah streets languished in various degrees of disregard. But of course, treasures never stay buried for long, even in this hinterland hub set on cane and cattle country.

Wander the main street and you’ll find a mixed bag of amblers, from well-to-do country women to hip young parents, artsy types and even the occasional staff-toting wizard. It all adds to the charm as they pop in and out of the many wholefood stores, workwear retailers, barber shops and well-merchandised op shops.

Thanks in part to the Northern Rivers Rail Trail that starts here, Murwillumbah’s inherent beauty and elegantly dilapidated heritage are starting to draw people in from the coast.

As such, the town is in mid-gentrification mode and still feels like a cool tip-off in the way Redfern or Fitzroy once did. It’s a veritable crucible for hip status with its artist population, a somewhat gritty undercarriage and a CBD of untapped potential.

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Embrace creativity at M|Arts Precinct

pottery displayed at M| Arts Precinct
The precinct is full of covetable finds.

A hip hood in its own right, this corner collection of artists’ workshops, boutiques and eateries feels more like something you’d find in Sydney’s Surry Hills than The Tweed hinterland.

A huge range is contained within the sprawling block, including local cheesemonger Kat Harvey Cheese, a two-storey fashion and homewares emporium, Empire Revival, The Bespoke Linen Co. and the Six & Four Wine Store that sells small-batch organic drops.

Feast on Italian fare at Pasta’bah

Pasta’bah exterior
Pasta’bah has a pasta bar and deli tucked behind Mur’bah’s main street. (Credit: Sally Singh Creative)

Pasta’bah all began with eggs. The eggs from Fabian Fabbro and Jodie Vickers’ Woodland Valley Farm go into the beautiful homemade pasta, which the couple have peddled at local markets for years.

Now they have a pasta bar and deli tucked behind Mur’bah’s main street. Come in and fill your basket with continental goodies and grab a panuozzo (a Neapolitan-style street-food sandwich), bowl of pasta or a fresh cannolo that’s filled while you wait.

Indulge in Bistro Livi’s culinary delights

pasta at Bistro Livi
Indulge in exquisite dishes at Bistro Livi. (Credit: Jessie Prince)

Buffed to culinary perfection, this destination diner is set in a sunny corner of the M|Arts Precinct. Consistently setting the table with fare that’s a deft assembly of flavours gathered from local producers, the team here has easy-going hospitality in hand.

This is a place where you don’t have to look at the menu online before arriving – just trust that everything is good.

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Sample Sayu’s Japanese flavours

Japanese fare at Sayu
Sayu serves up modern Japanese fare.
sayu japanese restaurant
The restaurant is decked out in moody tones.
Japanese fare at Sayu
Settle in for an arvo session.

Sake flows at this neighbourhood izakaya serving modern Japanese fare. The classic rib-stickers of gyoza, karaage and katsu do the work when you’re opting in for pints of cold Sapporo.

Step across concrete floors into a space defined by tactile stone and moody, minimal hues. Pull up to a wooden-slab table or settle in for an arvo session in a booth. 

Find your next favourite read at Slow Books

Japanese pop culture and modern fiction at Slow Books
Find a balanced collection of Japanese pop culture and modern fiction. (Credit: Sally Singh Creative)

This welcoming store is a bright, cosy place to discover a new favourite novel, sit with a pour-over coffee, browse the art or just inhale that delicious new-book scent.

Here you’ll find a balanced collection, with everything from gorgeous kids’ books to Japanese pop culture and modern fiction – all with covers begging to be judged for their design aesthetic.

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Lara Picone
Working for many of Australia’s top publications, Lara Picone has had the distinct pleasure of writing, editing and curating content about the finer things in life for more than 15 years. Graduating from Macquarie University with a Bachelor of Arts in Communication, her editorial foundation began at Qantas: The Australian Way magazine, before moving on to learn the fast-paced ropes of a weekly magazine at Sunday Magazine and picking up the art of brand curation at donna hay magazine. Pivoting a near-problematic travel lust into a career move by combining it with storytelling and a curious appetite, her next role was as Deputy Editor of SBS Feast magazine and later Online Editor of SBS Food online. She then stepped into her dream job as Editor of Australian Traveller before becoming Online Editor for both International Traveller and Australian Traveller. Now as a freelancer, Lara always has her passport at-the-ready to take flight on assignment for the Australian Traveller team, as well as for publications such as Qantas Magazine, Escape and The Weekend Australian. As ever, her appetite is the first thing she packs.
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3 vintage train journeys to step back in time and explore NSW

(Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

From country landscapes to the coast, Vintage Rail Journeys blends the grandeur of the golden age of rail travel with immersive local experiences.

Travelling aboard the historic Southern Aurora train is the ultimate scenic journey through regional NSW. Operated by Vintage Rail Journeys, the former Southern Aurora is a step back in time, from the lovingly restored carriages to the Off Train Experiences that spotlight local history, artisanal crafts and regional producers.

Once the overnight express that ferried passengers between Sydney and Melbourne throughout the 1960s, this train has been revived to its former mid-century glory, from the cabin layouts to the original lettering. Today, the train takes passengers on scenic and historic five-day journeys – starting and ending in Sydney – through three distinct regions of NSW: The Riverina, Golden West and North Coast.

Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train carriage
Be transported into the golden age of travel. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

One of the most magical parts of travelling with Vintage Rail Journeys is waking up on the train. Each night, the train stables at a station so guests can enjoy a restful night’s sleep in stillness, before departing again at dawn. Passengers awake to the gentle motion of the carriage, flicking open the blinds to watch the landscape unfold at sunrise. There is no better way to start the day.

The onboard experience come evening time is just as picturesque. Guests enjoy the all-inclusive food and beverages, nursing cocktails in the Art Deco-inspired lounge carriage or lingering over a three-course dinner in the dining carriage. Outside the window, Eastern grey kangaroos bound across open plains and flocks of cockatoos scatter from the gumtrees. It’s an old-world way of travelling, a slower pace that’s increasingly rare amid the frenzy of modern life. From coastal sojourns to adventures through agrarian landscapes, these are the multi-day Vintage Rail Journeys itineraries transporting guests back in time.

The Riverina

Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train travelling through nsw
Travel through the agricultural heartland of NSW. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

The Riverina is the agricultural heartland of NSW. Over five days, Vintage Rail Journeys takes passengers through the region to experience its celebrated produce, wines and local history. Travelling in a loop through the Central West, guests can sample sweets at the Junee Liquorice & Chocolate Factory, housed inside a former flour mill, tour an olive grove alongside a second-generation olive farmer, and enjoy tastings at family-owned wineries where the grapes are harvested mere metres away.

The Riverina is also a region shaped by passionate local historians. The Fairground Follies museum in Bowral houses one of the world’s largest collections of mechanical music and carnival memorabilia – a riot of colour and nostalgia tucked away where you’d least expect it. Meanwhile, Temora Rural Museum offers a glimpse into the history of everyday life in rural NSW. It’s home to the NSW & ACT Ambulance Museum (yes, a museum within a museum), packed with ambulances that span the past 120 years (including horse-drawn!). And seeing it all aboard a vintage train makes it feel not just like you’re visiting history, but living inside of it.

North Coast

Forest Sky Pier
Take in the views from Forest Sky Pier. (Credit: Destination NSW)

This five-day journey is all about ocean views and slowing down in tune with the rhythm of coastal life. As you make your way north from Sydney, the water is never too far from sight, whether Vintage Rail Journeys is tracing the Gloucester River or travelling alongside sweeping stretches of coastline. You’ll want to sit by a window as the train passes through the Coffs Harbour region – it’s one of the most scenic stretches of the whole journey.

Guests can also disembark at Coffs Harbour to take in the beauty of the Great Dividing Range at the Forest Sky Pier – a surreal lookout point that looks like a runway disappearing into the sky. The train continues onward to Byron Bay, where guests can disembark to explore the iconic beach town at their own pace. And on the return journey to Sydney, keep your eyes peeled for dolphins – they’re known to frequent the Kooragang Wetlands near Newcastle, which guests visit on a lunch cruise on the final day.

Golden West

winery experience in new south wales
Jump off the train for a winery experience. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

Travelling through the Golden West by rail is like stepping into a Frederick McCubbin painting – a nod to the golden era of rail travel. This five-day journey evokes the era of Australian Impressionism, passing through some of the country’s most painterly landscapes while tracing a path through history.

Starting in Sydney, the train makes its way to the Hawkesbury River, where the train crosses a historic rail bridge over the bronze, glassy waters below. Guests disembark here to cruise the brackish inlet aboard a historic postal boat before returning to the train to continue into Gold Rush country. Ahead lie grand heritage towns and historic estates, including the 1870s Abercrombie House in Bathurst.

Special event journeys

meal onboard Vintage Rail Journeys Southern Aurora train
Enjoy all-inclusive dining and beverages on the way to special events. (Credit: Krista Eppelstun)

Regional NSW is home to some truly one-of-a-kind events, and Vintage Rail Journeys offers a memorable way to get there. Planning a trip to the Bathurst Repco 1000? Vintage Rail Journeys’ special itinerary combines accommodation, dining and transport into one seamless experience. Guests take the scenic route to Bathurst, where the train becomes a unique home base for the event, complete with transfers, all-inclusive dining and beverages, and three days of reserved grandstand seating before returning to Sydney Central Station.

For something a little more playful, guests can also join fellow Elvis enthusiasts on a special overnight journey to Parkes for the town’s iconic annual Elvis Festival. It’s a vintage rail journey – with a little added rock ‘n’ roll.

Step back into the golden age of rail travel at vintagerailjourneys.com.au.

 

Blue Pool, Bermagui NSW

Part of The best of regional NSW