An Epic Weekend Away In The Murray Region

In the Murray region on the border of outback NSW/Victoria, community connection runs as deep as the ancient river flowing through it.

I’m taking menu suggestions from owner Katrina Myers moments after arriving at the luxurious Lost & Found Retreat in Barham, NSW, around an hour’s drive from Echuca in Victoria. The sleek and sustainable retreat was built in 2015 and it’s the perfect place to disconnect.

She’s just recommended the pork at Ivy Joyce, the hip restaurant I’m headed to later that night. “And if you like that, you’ll love this. It’s from the same place," says Katrina, stacking a packet of Bundarra bacon on top of my already overflowing arms, filled with locally sourced eggs and fresh bread. Ivy Joyce is owned by Kat’s friend, Lauren Mathers, and is known as another Murray region jewel.

the architectural exterior of Lost & Found, Barham, Murray, NSW — The architecturally designed Lost & Found Retreat is in the middle of an avocado orchard in Barham. (Image: Cindy Power Photography)

A local’s welcome

When I arrive at Ivy Joyce later that evening, I do as Katrina suggests and order the BBQ Bundarra pork denver with baked yams, broccolini and cocoa jus from the menu. Lauren, host and co-owner of Ivy Joyce with longtime friend Cynthia Burbury, talks me through the menu as the pork practically melts on my tongue. “All of our produce is local, either from us or local businesses. The pork is from Bundarra, my family’s farm. If you have any free time while you’re here, come visit! The piglets are adorable."

I feel like I’m talking to an old friend despite knowing Lauren for all of half an hour, and when she gets up to order me another piña colada, I almost feel like telling her to grab one for herself before remembering that she’s here to work.

After my visit from Katrina earlier and now my piglet-snuggling invitation from Lauren, I already feel like one of the locals. It’s a feeling that becomes familiar over my next three days in the Murray region of south east Australia, where strangers are welcomed as friends.

The Murray River

Barham (pronounced Bah-rum) sits on the banks of Australia’s longest river, the 2508-kilometre Murray, which acts as a natural border between NSW and Victoria. The Murray has long been a lifeline for the region, with communities building their lives along its shores for centuries.

The next morning – as I enjoy Katrina’s delicious delivery of local produce – I’m pondering the curvatures of the river while relaxing on the back deck, an exposed cement platform spattered with wide-leaved potted palms, wooden finishes and a solitary swinging wicker chair.

an outdoor deck with a hammock at Lost & Found, Barham, NSW — Lost & Found is a luxurious place to unwind. (Image: Cindy Power Photography)

The sun is still rubbing her eyes awake, her half-powered light casting faded gold and blue-tinged pinks across the weed meadow growing beyond the garden of clumped wild daisies. The constant dull buzz of bees intertwines with the warble of magpies as they flit through a grove of trees to my left, just a fraction of the orchard that makes up the family-run Barham Avocados farm.

“Ah, Barham Avocados. You must be staying at Katrina’s new retreat." Fifth-generation farmer Peter McDonald’s voice comes to me loud and clear through my headset. We’re exchanging pleasantries as we ascend above the vast, arid landscape and the snaking Murray River in a four-seater Cessna 172S. I’m not surprised to hear that Peter and Kat go way back.

an aerial view of the Murray River — Watch the Murray River snaking through the landscape from above.

The view from above

From my window, I can still see the effects of the unprecedented flood that devastated the region between November 2022 and February 2023. Vibrant fields of canary-yellow canola flowers spring back to life against still-broken red gums and demolished agricultural lands. Peter, who has been flying since his training as a commercial pilot in 2007, saw the destruction firsthand. He started Murray Darling Scenic Flights in 2022, after Covid-19 had hit and only a few months before the flood.

Aerial images from plane over Murray Darling Scenic Flights — You can still see the effects of the unprecedented flood that devastated the region. (Image: Murray Darling Scenic Flights)

“I started out doing one to two flights a week, but during the flood, I was flying around three times a day. People wanted to see what was happening from above."

I’m breathless as we loop around the pastel-pink Lake Tyrrell, over mallee gums and ancient wetlands, the Murray River and all its offshoots never too far from sight. But as stunning as the panoramic aerial views are, some things are better seen from the ground.

an aerial view of Lake Tyrrell — The sunset-hued waters of Lake Tyrrell look stunning from above. (Image: Murray Darling Scenic Flights)

Roots run deep at Restdown Wines

I pull up next to a dusty ute and am instantly giddy about the dog in its tray. The sun is beating down and I’m already swatting flies out of my face when I open the car door, but nothing can distract me from making friends with the kelpie. I let her sniff my hand before scratching her head, a welcomed gesture that makes her behind wiggle harder from frantic tail wags. “That’s Gracie. She’s excited to meet you."

Gracie the kelpie at Restdown Wines — Gracie the kelpie greets visitors to Restdown Wines. (Image: Angus Gaffey)

I look up to see a man in dusty jeans, boots and a well-loved hat. Don Hearn greets me with a firm handshake and the kindest smile; he co-owns the 450-hectare Restdown Wines vineyard in Thule with his wife, Jo. “We’re on Barapa Barapa Country here," Don tells us as we begin the trail around the winery’s dedicated wetland system on our guided walk. And the evidence is everywhere, from earth mounds used for cooking to scar trees dating back hundreds of years. Don and Jo work closely with the local Barapa Barapa community to ensure it stays that way.

Don with Gracie the kelpie on a tractor at Restdown Wines, Barham — Don tags Gracie the kelpie along with him around the vineyard. (Image: Destination NSW/Visit River Country)

After learning so much with Don outside, we sit down in the cellar door for a crash course on wine from Jo. Gracie lies outside, worn out from her adventure through the wetlands with us. Over sips of wild merlot produced at Restdown Wines’ vineyard, I discover, much to my amusement, that Don’s dad was pilot Peter’s first football coach.

wine tasting and cheese platter at Restdown Wines, Barham — Sample on signature merlot and cheese at Restdown Wines. (Image: Destination NSW)

My partner and I burst out in simultaneous laughter – on our way to the vineyard we’d joked that someone we had met along the way would inevitably know whoever we were about to meet. We were right, and glad about it – the veins of this community run deep, just like the river that pumps through its heart.

two people standing in the middle of a vineyard at Restdown Wines, Barham — Don and Jo Hearn managed to keep Restdown Wines a growing success.

A community like no other

While this vast, arid and plentiful land is rare and wonderful, the people here are unlike any I’ve experienced elsewhere. An interconnected web of kindness and generosity. A willingness to help out a neighbour, whether that be dropping off extra vegetables, flying friends over floods, or simply coaching a couple of football games.

As I fly out of Bendigo back to Sydney, I feel the plane subtly level out and I’m back in that Cessna, watching Peter handle it with ease over the undulating lands of country NSW/Victoria. I’m thinking about the people I’ve met and, with a shock, realise that I never made it out to snuggle Lauren’s piglets. But I quickly settle back into my seat. I know these kinds of invitations, from these kinds of people, don’t have a deadline. I can stop by when I’m next in town.

an aerial view of Mungo National Park — The contours of Mungo National Park. (Image: Destination NSW)

The heavens take centre stage at this Outback NSW glamping lodge.

Crane your neck. Look up. If it’s nighttime in a major Australian city, you might see a faint dusting of stars. Now imagine yourself out in the bush. Here, those stars aren’t just scattered dots – instead, they’re smudged across the sky in endless, glittering streaks. Welcome to Wilderluxe Lake Keepit , a new glamping lodge in one of the most picturesque corners of outback NSW.

Between its eight stargazing tents, Gilay Guest Lounge, and shared tales of the Dreamtime night sky, this retreat is designed to exist in harmony with the breathtaking lake and surrounding landscape. Intrigued? Here’s everything you need to know.

Bathed in warm light, a couple watches the sun dip beyond the horizon. — Watch the sky melt into magic at Wilderluxe.

Getting to Wilderluxe Lake Keepit

Wilderluxe Lake Keepit is in the NSW Northern Tablelands, bordered by the Great Dividing Range. The lake itself is hard to miss: this mammoth body of water is two-thirds the size of Sydney Harbour.

Just 40 minutes from Tamworth and close to Gunnedah, it’s on the inland route between Sydney and Byron Bay. Drive or take one of the daily flights to Tamworth’s airport.

Aerial view of Wilderluxe. — Let vast waters and towering ranges set the scene for your escape.

Wilderluxe Lake Keepit rooms

Don’t settle for a paltry room when you can sleep directly under the cosmos. Wilderluxe offers eight domed ‘Star Tents’ , all named after Aboriginal sky stories – like Djirri Djirri, the sacred messenger bird, Baiame, the Sky Father and great creator, and Dhinawan, the Emu in the Sky constellation.

On a clear night, use your tent’s retractable roof for gazing above or wander to the outdoor bathtub on your private deck to soak under the night sky. No need to go anywhere. You can stay put come evening with a kitchenette inside and a gas barbecue on the deck.

A couple gazes up at a sky ablaze with stars at Wilderluxe. — Sleep beneath the stars.

Style and character

When it comes to aesthetics, Wilderluxe Lake Keepit stays on trend. The encampment blends with its surroundings, building up layers of minimalist visuals that mirror the ever-changing curves of the water.

Earthy tones, natural materials and timber finishes also anchor the retreat in its bushland surrounds. It’s enough to deepen the sense of calm you’ll experience as you drive off-grid, and this is only heightened as you spot kangaroos grazing at dawn or hear the chatter of native birds by the lake.

The dreamy sunset at Wilderluxe. — Go off-grid in style at Wilderluxe Lake Keepit.

Wilderluxe Lake Keepit dining

‘Dinner and a show’ hits differently with the property’s Big Sky dinner experience . Hosted in the Gilay Lounge, enjoy complimentary drinks and a grazing table with the host, followed by a screening of Big Sky Dreaming, a film produced exclusively for Wilderluxe guests in which Kamilaroi storyteller Uncle Len Waters narrates tales of the Dreaming above.

Once your imagination has been fed, it’s time to take a seat fireside for a glass of Australian port and a serving of s’mores.

Keen to explore the wider area? Staff can provide barbecue and picnic hampers, stuffed with regional meats, cheeses and organic local fare.

Wilderluxe Lake Keepit facilities

While you could very well spend all your time in your tent, sometimes it’s time to hit pause on the celestial show. Instead, make your way up to the Gilay Guest Lounge, where you can relax on the deck overlooking the lake or the outdoor fire pits. It’s a great way to unwind and clink glasses with other stargazers.

The Gilay Lounge with the view of the lake. — Unwind by the fire and raise a glass at Gilay Lounge.

Wilderluxe Lake Keepit experiences

No need to turn nocturnal; when the sun rises, there are still plenty of ways to touch the sky.

Lake Keepit hosted the 2020 Women’s World Gliding Championships, and it’s one of the best places in Australia to stretch your wings. The local Soaring Club operates year-round, meaning you can book a gliding experience any day of the year – or opt for a scenic flight to take in the vast beauty from above.

Prefer to keep your feet on solid ground? There are plenty of walking and cycling trails in and around the area. Luckily, bikes are part of the Wilderluxe package. All you have to do is ask a staff member for their favourite route, throw a picnic onto the back and cycle off into the great beyond.

Alternatively, nab a stand-up paddleboard (SUP) or kayak and head out onto the lake. Or, if you’re feeling lucky, borrow a fishing rod and try your chances.

A person kayaking through serene waters. — Paddle into peace.

The details

A two-night minimum twin-share accommodation package includes Big Sky dinner and drinks experience, plus daily continental breakfast. As well as access to leisure equipment including mountain bikes, kayaks, SUPs and fishing gear.

The interiors of the glamping tent. — Let nature restore you, while luxury takes care of the rest.

Start planning your outback glamping adventure at wilderluxe.com.au.

A weekend away in the Murray region to fill your cup