An Epic Weekend Away In The Murray Region

In the Murray region on the border of outback NSW/Victoria, community connection runs as deep as the ancient river flowing through it.

I’m taking menu suggestions from owner Katrina Myers moments after arriving at the luxurious Lost & Found Retreat in Barham, NSW, around an hour’s drive from Echuca in Victoria. The sleek and sustainable retreat was built in 2015 and it’s the perfect place to disconnect.

She’s just recommended the pork at Ivy Joyce, the hip restaurant I’m headed to later that night. “And if you like that, you’ll love this. It’s from the same place," says Katrina, stacking a packet of Bundarra bacon on top of my already overflowing arms, filled with locally sourced eggs and fresh bread. Ivy Joyce is owned by Kat’s friend, Lauren Mathers, and is known as another Murray region jewel.

the architectural exterior of Lost & Found, Barham, Murray, NSW

The architecturally designed Lost & Found Retreat is in the middle of an avocado orchard in Barham. (Image: Cindy Power Photography)

A local’s welcome

When I arrive at Ivy Joyce later that evening, I do as Katrina suggests and order the BBQ Bundarra pork denver with baked yams, broccolini and cocoa jus from the menu. Lauren, host and co-owner of Ivy Joyce with longtime friend Cynthia Burbury, talks me through the menu as the pork practically melts on my tongue. “All of our produce is local, either from us or local businesses. The pork is from Bundarra, my family’s farm. If you have any free time while you’re here, come visit! The piglets are adorable."

I feel like I’m talking to an old friend despite knowing Lauren for all of half an hour, and when she gets up to order me another piña colada, I almost feel like telling her to grab one for herself before remembering that she’s here to work.

After my visit from Katrina earlier and now my piglet-snuggling invitation from Lauren, I already feel like one of the locals. It’s a feeling that becomes familiar over my next three days in the Murray region of south east Australia, where strangers are welcomed as friends.

The Murray River

Barham (pronounced Bah-rum) sits on the banks of Australia’s longest river, the 2508-kilometre Murray, which acts as a natural border between NSW and Victoria. The Murray has long been a lifeline for the region, with communities building their lives along its shores for centuries.

The next morning – as I enjoy Katrina’s delicious delivery of local produce – I’m pondering the curvatures of the river while relaxing on the back deck, an exposed cement platform spattered with wide-leaved potted palms, wooden finishes and a solitary swinging wicker chair.

an outdoor deck with a hammock at Lost & Found, Barham, NSW

Lost & Found is a luxurious place to unwind. (Image: Cindy Power Photography)

The sun is still rubbing her eyes awake, her half-powered light casting faded gold and blue-tinged pinks across the weed meadow growing beyond the garden of clumped wild daisies. The constant dull buzz of bees intertwines with the warble of magpies as they flit through a grove of trees to my left, just a fraction of the orchard that makes up the family-run Barham Avocados farm.

“Ah, Barham Avocados. You must be staying at Katrina’s new retreat." Fifth-generation farmer Peter McDonald’s voice comes to me loud and clear through my headset. We’re exchanging pleasantries as we ascend above the vast, arid landscape and the snaking Murray River in a four-seater Cessna 172S. I’m not surprised to hear that Peter and Kat go way back.

Watch the Murray River snaking through the landscape from above.

The view from above

From my window, I can still see the effects of the unprecedented flood that devastated the region between November 2022 and February 2023. Vibrant fields of canary-yellow canola flowers spring back to life against still-broken red gums and demolished agricultural lands. Peter, who has been flying since his training as a commercial pilot in 2007, saw the destruction firsthand. He started Murray Darling Scenic Flights in 2022, after Covid-19 had hit and only a few months before the flood.

Aerial images from plane over Murray Darling Scenic Flights

You can still see the effects of the unprecedented flood that devastated the region. (Image: Murray Darling Scenic Flights)

“I started out doing one to two flights a week, but during the flood, I was flying around three times a day. People wanted to see what was happening from above."

I’m breathless as we loop around the pastel-pink Lake Tyrrell, over mallee gums and ancient wetlands, the Murray River and all its offshoots never too far from sight. But as stunning as the panoramic aerial views are, some things are better seen from the ground.

The sunset-hued waters of Lake Tyrrell look stunning from above. (Image: Murray Darling Scenic Flights)

Roots run deep at Restdown Wines

I pull up next to a dusty ute and am instantly giddy about the dog in its tray. The sun is beating down and I’m already swatting flies out of my face when I open the car door, but nothing can distract me from making friends with the kelpie. I let her sniff my hand before scratching her head, a welcomed gesture that makes her behind wiggle harder from frantic tail wags. “That’s Gracie. She’s excited to meet you."

Gracie the kelpie greets visitors to Restdown Wines. (Image: Angus Gaffey)

I look up to see a man in dusty jeans, boots and a well-loved hat. Don Hearn greets me with a firm handshake and the kindest smile; he co-owns the 450-hectare Restdown Wines vineyard in Thule with his wife, Jo. “We’re on Barapa Barapa Country here," Don tells us as we begin the trail around the winery’s dedicated wetland system on our guided walk. And the evidence is everywhere, from earth mounds used for cooking to scar trees dating back hundreds of years. Don and Jo work closely with the local Barapa Barapa community to ensure it stays that way.

Don with Gracie the kelpie on a tractor at Restdown Wines, Barham

Don tags Gracie the kelpie along with him around the vineyard. (Image: Destination NSW/Visit River Country)

After learning so much with Don outside, we sit down in the cellar door for a crash course on wine from Jo. Gracie lies outside, worn out from her adventure through the wetlands with us. Over sips of wild merlot produced at Restdown Wines’ vineyard, I discover, much to my amusement, that Don’s dad was pilot Peter’s first football coach.

wine tasting and cheese platter at Restdown Wines, Barham

Sample on signature merlot and cheese at Restdown Wines. (Image: Destination NSW)

My partner and I burst out in simultaneous laughter – on our way to the vineyard we’d joked that someone we had met along the way would inevitably know whoever we were about to meet. We were right, and glad about it – the veins of this community run deep, just like the river that pumps through its heart.

two people standing in the middle of a vineyard at Restdown Wines, Barham

Don and Jo Hearn managed to keep Restdown Wines a growing success.

A community like no other

While this vast, arid and plentiful land is rare and wonderful, the people here are unlike any I’ve experienced elsewhere. An interconnected web of kindness and generosity. A willingness to help out a neighbour, whether that be dropping off extra vegetables, flying friends over floods, or simply coaching a couple of football games.

As I fly out of Bendigo back to Sydney, I feel the plane subtly level out and I’m back in that Cessna, watching Peter handle it with ease over the undulating lands of country NSW/Victoria. I’m thinking about the people I’ve met and, with a shock, realise that I never made it out to snuggle Lauren’s piglets. But I quickly settle back into my seat. I know these kinds of invitations, from these kinds of people, don’t have a deadline. I can stop by when I’m next in town.

The contours of Mungo National Park. (Image: Destination NSW)

The World Heritage-listed site must be seen to be believed.

I’m sure I speak for many of us when I say I’ve always wondered what it would be like to visit the moon. Seeing it in the evening sky always conjures up feelings of whimsy and wonder in me – a mystic, dreamy place just begging to be explored. Unfortunately, also like the majority of us, I can’t afford to just jump in a rocket and zoom on up there.

But what if I told you there’s a place right here on Earth that effortlessly encapsulates this ethereal atmosphere? I didn’t believe it either, until I visited Mungo National Park myself, one of Australia’s most underrated national parks.

Where is Mungo National Park?

Mungo National Park is in Ouback NSW, just over 200 kilometres from the Victorian border town of Mildura or a 10-hour drive from Sydney. The World Heritage-listed site spans 240,000 hectares across the picturesque Riverina Murray region.

Mungo National Park spans 240,000 hectares. (Image: Destination NSW)

For those in the know, Mungo is definitely worth the road trip, with many people travelling to the region purely to witness its lunar-like landscapes. But this ancient, Ancestral place flies relatively under the radar in the grand scheme of things, often overlooked in favour of its Aussie counterparts.

Don’t believe me? Well, while places like Kakadu National Park, Blue Mountains National Park and Daintree National Park see from 200,000 to 6 million visitors a year, just 37,000 people visit Mungo annually. But for what it lacks in numbers, Mungo more than makes up for in beauty, history and cultural significance.

Why visit Mungo National Park?

While the topography of Mungo National Park alone is reason enough to visit, its history is equally as staggering. This is a place where megafauna once roamed, a land that lays claim to the oldest collection of fossilised human footprints ever uncovered – dating back to the Ice Age.

Mungo is a culturally significant site for its Traditional Owners. (Image: Destination NSW)

The archaeological discoveries of Mungo Man and Mungo Lady also rewrote history. Discovered in 1968 and 1974 respectively by geologist Jim Bowler, the remains are the oldest known examples of ritual burials in the world, dating back over 40,000 years.

The findings also scientifically proved that Aboriginal culture has existed here since time immemorial. Mungo National Park is on the Traditional Lands of the Paakantji, Ngiyampaa and Mutthi Mutthi people and remains a culturally and spiritually significant site for Traditional Owners. It is symbolic of Australian history, representing the timeless connection First Nations people have with Country.

Must-see sights in Mungo National Park

Mungo can be experienced in a variety of ways, with many visitors opting to explore the national park on their own. I recommend joining at least one of the Indigenous-led guided tours with NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service. It’s a great way to learn about the land’s history and culture, as well as get the most out of your time at Mungo. Here are a few highlights.

Lake Mungo

Middens found in Mungo National Park in NSW

Ancient middens can still be found within the sand dunes. (Image: Destination NSW)

Lake Mungo is one of 17 arid lake beds within the region. It held a vast amount of water and marine life around 50,000 years ago, but has long since dried and fossilised. The now eroded sand dunes that tower around the park’s circumference continuously reveal evidence of an area once thriving with prehistoric life.

Mungo Woolshed

Built in 1869 using an ingenious drop-log cypress pine construction, this historic woolshed harks back to when Gol Gol pastoral station brought thousands of sheep to the region. The farming activity on this dramatic but delicate land helped archaeologists discover the secrets buried beneath its red-ochre surface.

Walls of China

The awe-inspiring Walls of China attract many visitors. (Image: Destination NSW)

Arcing around the eastern edge of the lake, the Walls of China is Mungo’s star attraction, where visitors most often describe a lunar-like appearance. Its low curve of sandy hills, or lunette, rises up out of the Earth like pinnacles, sculpted by millennia of sand-soaked winds.

Red Top Lookout

Head to Red Top Lookout in time for sunset for unparalleled views over Mungo. The fading light renders its tapestry of deep ravines and rising hills in all shades of orange, pink and purple, mirroring the magic of the moon.

Mungo Loop Track

See the highlights along the Mungo Loop Track. (Image: Destination NSW)

Get acquainted with this awe-inspiring desert landscape by driving, or better yet, cycling the 70-kilometre Mungo Loop Track. Cross the ancient lakebed to the Walls of China before tracing its shores, taking in the iconic dunes and mallee trees of Outback NSW.

The Meeting Place

Head to the Meeting Place at Mungo Visitor Centre to learn about Mungo Man and Mungo Lady. While the remains are kept private for cultural reasons, the lunette-shaped viewpoint here commemorates their resting place and that of countless Aboriginal Ancestors. You’ll also see casts of the park’s ancient fossilised human footprints.

Mungo wildlife

Mungo is home to adorable red kangaroos. (Image: Destination NSW)

Many species call Mungo home, and spotting them is like a game of wildlife bingo. There are over 100 species of bird here, from mulga parrots to pink cockatoos. It’s also a prime place to see red kangaroos and emus. If you’re lucky, you may also spot short-beaked echidnas, fat-tailed dunnarts, pygmy possums, carpet pythons, mallee dragons and more.

How to get to Mungo National Park

The closest major city centre to Mungo National Park is Mildura in Victoria, around a 2.5-hour drive away. You will inevitably encounter unsealed roads that are usually in good condition, but always check traffic updates and carry adequate food and water.

A small plane in Mungo National Park in NSW

Take a scenic flight to see Mungo from above. (Image: Destination NSW)

If you’re coming from Sydney, it’ll take you up to 11 hours to reach Mungo. You can stop in trending detour destinations like Goulburn and Wagga Wagga to rest and refuel. I’d also highly recommend flying with Murray Darling Scenic Flights from either Echuca or Swan Hill. You’ll see Mungo in all its glory from above, as well as nearby natural landmarks like Lake Tyrrell, one of Australia’s most mesmerising pink lakes.

Where to stay at Mungo National Park

Mungo Lodge is a 10-minute drive from the Mungo Visitor Centre. The sprawling 77-hectare property is well-appointed with large family rooms, deluxe cabins and glamping tents, as well as an onsite restaurant and bar.

Mungo Lodge in Mungo National Park in NSW

Book a stay in one of Mungo Lodge’s cosy cabins. (Image: Destination NSW)

The Mungo Shearers’ Quarters offer rustic accommodation in the heart of the park. Stay in a cosy cabin with access to communal kitchens and bathrooms. BYO bedding.

Two kilometres out of Mungo National Park is Main Camp. Located off Arumpo Road, the campground boasts plenty of unpowered sites and includes picnic tables, barbecues and non-flush toilets. Pre-booking is not available.

A weekend away in the Murray region to fill your cup