The quirky outback delights of The Kidman Way

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There are possibly no two terms that are more emblematic of the Australian outback than heading at the ‘back o’ Bourke’ or going past the Black Stump.

Both of these have become colloquial shorthand for the remoteness and otherworldly allure of the outback experience as a whole and can be found on one majestic roadtrip through the heart of New South Wales.

The Kidman Way cuts a swath through central NSW from Jerilderie in the south to Bourke in the north and hides some rather fascinating offbeat and quintessentially outback towns. Here is our guide to finding the best on one of the state’s best road trips.

Murrumbidgee & Surrounds

Griffith & Surrounds

Carrathool & Surrounds

Cobar & Surrounds

Bourke & Surrounds

Sunset orchard in Griffith
Sun sets over a local orchard in Griffith. (Image: Destination NSW)

The 644-kilometre Kidman Way was named for pastoralist Sir Sidney Kidman, who in 1899 founded S. Kidman & Co, which would eventually become one of the world’s largest pastoral companies with land holdings estimated at anywhere between 220,000 kilometres square and 280,000 kilometres square – roughly the size of the entire United Kingdom, give or take – and long nurtured a vision for opening up the country’s vast inland.

The Paddle Vessel Jandra, Bourke
Jump onboard The Paddle Vessel Jandra and cruise down the Darling River in Bourke. (Image: Destination NSW)

Largely devoid of the ‘enterprise traffic’ of large trucks that clog many of Australia’s bitumen arteries, the Kidman Way is recognised as one of the country’s great outback drives.

Taking in the shires of Murrumbidgee, Griffith, Carrathool, Cobar and Bourke, the journey from one end to the other is best approached at a leisurely pace (plan on it taking at least five days), all the better to allow for ample time to appreciate the fascinating, quirky and largely undiscovered elements along the way.

Limone Dining, Griffith
Stop off at Griffith’s Limone Dining for a delicious feast. (Image: Destination NSW)

Murrumbidgee & Surrounds

Quirky fact: Coleambally is the youngest town in New South Wales, having been founded in June 1968, and getting its very own post office on April 1, 1970.

 

The passion project of the Altin family, Altina Wildlife Park is a Nationally Accredited Exotic and Native Animal Breeding Facility dedicated to bringing endangered animals back from the brink of extinction. Set out across 207 hectares of land on the banks of the Murrumbidgee River , the inhabitants here include everything from African crested porcupine to cheetah to red pandas to African lions, with plans for glamping and an expanded visitors centre well on their way. The personalised (and passionate) tour of the park on a horse-drawn carriage with staff leaves you in more awe of the ambition and work of this underappreciated Aussie gem.

Altina Wildlife Park, Altina
Altina Wildlife Park is dedicated to bringing endangered animals back from the brink of extinction.

Jerilderie holds the distinction of being the only town in New South Wales raided by Ned Kelly in 1879 when, over a three-day stretch, he robbed the bank of more than £2000, locked the local police in their own cells, and held more than 30 hostages while shouting the bar at the Royal Mail Hotel, among other things. You can walk in Kelly’s shoes by taking the self-guided Ned Kelly Raid Trail around the town, beginning at the Post and Telegraph Office and taking in 16 sites around town.

Ned Kelly Raid Trail, Jerilderie
You can walk in Kelly’s shoes by taking the self-guided Ned Kelly Raid Trail around the town.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Griffith & Surrounds

Quirky fact: Griffith’s City Park is home to the tallest climbing frame in the Southern Hemisphere (as well as a double flying fox and water splash park).

 

Water is the lifeblood of Griffith . John Oxley, an explorer back in 1817 dismissed the Griffith region as being ‘uninhabitable and useless to civilised man’. The Murrumbidgee Irrigation scheme was established in 1912 following construction of the Burrinjuck Dam, Berembed Weir and 139 kilometres of irrigation canals. This enabled Griffith to become a thriving oasis and the food bowl of Australia.

Life in Griffith revolves around food and wine. The town holds many festivals throughout the year showcasing the fruits of their labour. One of the quirkiest displays is the annual citrus sculptures during Spring Fest where more than 100,000 oranges and rubber bands are used to make these amazing works of art.

The annual citrus sculptures, Griffith
More than 100,000 oranges and rubber bands are used to make these amazing works of art. (Image: Andrew Mclean)

Griffith is one of Australia’s most vibrant cosmopolitan centres. With a population over 26,000, Griffith exudes a rich blend of culture and traditions, today more than 70 nationalities make up its cultural tapestry which includes Italian, Indian, Afghani and Pacific communities. Your tastebuds can travel the world, no passport required all whilst in the main street of Griffith. You can’t leave without enjoying a ‘rocket toppa’ pizza, a bowl of gnocchi and a cannoli. Leaving hungry is never an option.

Zecca restaurant, Griffith
Your tastebuds can travel the world, no passport required all whilst in the main street of Griffith. (Image: Karly Sivewright)

Carrathool & Surrounds

Quirky fact: The Black Stump Hotel in Merriwagga has the tallest bar in the Southern Hemisphere; in a precursor to the traditional drive through, the bar here was a ride through, said to be built so that local stockmen could ride their horses up to the bar and order a drink without dismounting.

 

Part outdoor gallery, part junkyard, Wally’s Junk Art Gallery at Rankins Springs, 75 kilometres from Griffith, is the domain of local artist Raymond Lamont, known to all as Wally.

His totally unique sculptures, everything from animals and airplanes to life-sized people, are created using all manner of vintage bits and pieces, from tractor and machinery parts to old railway plates to disused gas bottles and light bulbs. There’s a $6.50 entry fee, but you get a cup of coffee and a chat with Wally for free!

 

Situated in a valley of the Cocoparra Ranges in Rankins Springs, Selby is a 3000 hectares-plus certified-organic farm owned by Ron and Andrea Finch, located near Rankins Springs.

You can stay the night in The Shack, the renovated shearers’ quarters, arriving to home-baked goodies (courtesy of Andrea) and feasting on a breakfast that includes farm fresh eggs (when the resident hens oblige). Spend your days walking, relaxing and feeding the sheep, and at night gaze at the sky to your heart’s content.

Mustering sheep at sunset, Carathool
Mustering sheep at sunset. (Image: G Rixon)

Cobar & Surrounds

Quirky fact: There are 99 countries in the world that are smaller than Cobar (total land size 45,609 kilometres square) including Switzerland, Denmark and Lebanon. Perhaps fittingly, Cobar also has its very own currency, the Cobar Quid, a minted medallion that can be exchanged for goods and services at participating local businesses to encourage residents to shop local.

Cobar sign, Cobar
Cobar also has its very own currency, the Cobar Quid.

Held in Cobar every April, the Grey Mardi Gras celebrate everything 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, with live music, fashion, food and entertainment. The roster of events includes a buffet dinner dance, picnic concert, markets, Sunday fun day and, of course, a parade. Dressing up is strongly recommended.

Grey Mardi Gras, Cobar
The Grey Mardi Gras celebrate everything 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, with live music, fashion, food and entertainment.

In its heyday, the Great Cobar Copper Mine was processing ore at a staggering rate of 1000 tons per day, employed 2000 people and provided lighting for the whole town via its electric generators. There’s a museum to visit at the now retired site, and you can see the main mine shaft nearby (now fenced off) which plunges down to 430 metres.

Great Cobar Copper Mine, Cobar
The Great Cobar Copper Mine at sunset.

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Bourke & Surrounds

Quirky fact: It was the Scottish/Australian poet Will Ogilvie, a contemporary of Banjo Paterson and Henry Lawson (and friend of Harry ‘Breaker’ Morant), who coined the now iconic term ‘back o’ Bourke’ in his poem, At the back o’ Bourke.

 

The grave of the bushranger Midnight, who was shot and killed on 2 October 1878, can be found to the west of the village of Enngonia. Midnight, also known as Thomas/Alexander Law, George Gibson and Henry Wilson, was responsible for the murder of Senior Sergeant Thomas Wallings, a father of eight children, who was shot while attempting to capture the bushranger after his escape from Parramatta Gaol.

Aerial view over Bourke
An aerial view over Bourke.

But this wasn’t the first shoot out to take place in Enngonia; on October 6, 1868 the notorious bushranger Captain Starlight (real name Frank Pearson) was involved in a gun fight at the Shearer’s Inn during which he shot Constable John McCabe after the trooper confronted him and fellow bushranger Charles Rutherford.

The officer died almost a month later from his injuries, and Pearson was found hiding in cave in December; the details of this story (and many more) are recounted at the interactive Back O’ Bourke Exhibition Centre.

Back-O-Bourke-gallery, Bourke
The details of this story (and many more) are recounted at the interactive Back O’ Bourke Exhibition Centre.

Get out of the car and stretch your legs at Gundabooka National Park. The headliner here is the Mulgowan (Yappa) Aboriginal Art site walking track, with stunning rock paintings by the local Ngemba and Paakandji people depicting animals, dancers, hand stencils and hunting tools.

Having conquered the track, spend a little extra time to check out the nearby Gundabooka Range and Mulareenya Creek , where traditional ceremonies were once held.

It’s not an Aussie drive worth writing about if there isn’t something ‘big’ to wonder at along the way.

Given its reputation as a top quality yabby fishing spot, it was only a matter for time before a giant version of the crustacean cropped up on the landscape, specifically on the Warrego River at Fords Bridge.

Stop for a photo and then grab lunch at the nearby Warrego Hotel, built in 1913 from mud brick, the only pub of its type thought to be still standing.

Catania Fruit Salad Farm, Griffith
Driving through Catania Fruit Salad Farm, near Griffith. (Image: Destination NSW)
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Dive into summer with hikes, great bites and wellness in The Tweed

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    Warmer days call for slowing down and relaxing in nature. Discover why The Tweed is the ultimate destination to do just that.

    As the end of the year draws near, the need for rest and restoration grows ever more prominent. For many, that means heading into nature – and there’s plenty of science to back up the benefits of doing so. It quite literally makes us happier as it reduces stress hormones, lowers our blood pressure and more. And what better place to lean into this feel-good effect than during summer in The Tweed (in the Northern Rivers region of NSW)? Blending sparkling beaches, riverside towns and hinterland villages, this area has nature covered, while also offering top activities and dining options.

    Slip, slop, slap.

    And of course, pack your SPF. We Are Feel Good Inc’s Ultra-Light Mineral Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50 is a lightweight and fast-absorbing formula that keeps your skin hydrated and shielded, thanks to nourishing Coconut Oil and Vitamin E. But it’s also helping preserve the natural beauty around you on your Tweed vacation, thanks to 30 per cent ocean waste packaging.

    Discover eight experiences that make The Tweed the perfect place for summer.

    1. Underwater worlds

    two people swimming after turtle on the tweed
    Get a chance to swim with the locals.

    There’s something about the ocean that calls to us as humans, and what’s below the surface is even more magical.

    Green, hawksbill and loggerhead turtles (not to mention an abundance of other marine life) all use the protected waters around Cook Island, near Fingal Head, as their foraging ground, making it the perfect place to dive and snorkel to spot these adorable creatures.

    Join Cooly Eco Adventures on a guided snorkelling tour that combines unforgettable turtle encounters with an inspiring look into marine conservation.

    2. Farm-to-table dining

    table spread at Potager restaurant
    Treat your taste buds at Potager. (Image: Cara Sophie)

    Respecting the land and nature also means appreciating its abundance of food. From farm-to-table cafes and boutique breweries to river cruises and restaurants championing local produce, dining around The Tweed often means engaging with the best local producers.

    The award-winning Potager Restaurant , part of The Hinterland Collection , is the perfect example; beginning life as a kitchen garden, the passion to champion local producers is woven into every dish. Vegetables, fruit and herbs are picked from the garden or sourced from other local producers, the seafood comes from the Northern Rivers, and meat is sourced from ethical local producers. Even the cocktail list features local distillers.

    Extend your stay with a night (or several) at boutique on-site accommodation, Potager House . This French-inspired country four-bedroom retreat boasts stunning views of the surrounding hills and nearby ocean, as well as a large pool, outdoor entertaining area and infrared sauna.

    3. Water wellness

    Waterguru Mindfulness in the Mangroves summer on the tweed
    Find mindfulness in mangroves. (Image: Matt Johnson)

    You’ll find mindfulness while floating around the mangroves of Kingscliff’s Cudgen Creek at any time, but Watersports Guru offers an immersive experience to help guests do so with more intent. Join a 90-minute guided session on a stand-up paddleboard to reconnect with nature and relax through breathwork, gentle movement and sensory awareness.

    If you’re feeling more adventurous, Watersports Guru also offer Kayak fishing adventures or join a Sea Turtle Odyssey experience.

    4. Restorative seaside stays

    woman relaxing in spa at Halcyon Wellness, halcyon house
    Unwind at Halcyon Wellness.

    The Tweed encourages locals and visitors alike to slow down. To really indulge, a seaside stay is a must. Halcyon House has understood the assignment, blending a wellness philosophy centred on balance and self-discovery with luxurious surrounds. Stay in one of 22 rooms and suites (each individually designed by eclectic interior designer Anna Spiro) right on the beachfront. Book restorative treatments at the onsite spa, Halcyon Wellness, relax by the pool, dine at the hatted Paper Daisy restaurant and just let The Tweed work its magic.

    While Blue Water Motel offers a relaxed coastal escape, just steps from Kingscliff Beach. Settle in stylish rooms, recently restyled by Jason Grant, nodding to the cool of Kingscliff with a fun retro vibe. Hire a bike from reception to explore the surrounding area.

    5. Tasty drops

    Husk Farm Distillery
    Join a Farm to Bottle tour. (Image: Salsingh Photography)

    The owners at Husk Farm Distillery aren’t just about creating high-quality rum: they’re also farmers themselves. In fact, they create one of the world’s only single estate, farm-to-bottle spirits. Join a Farm to Bottle tour to discover the sustainable ‘full circle’ distilling practices used here, and even get hands-on with your own cane knife to help harvest and juice your own stalk of cane. And, of course, a welcome drink plus complimentary tastings along the way.

    6. Rail trail adventures

    Cycle the Northern Rivers Rail Trail.
    Cycle the Northern Rivers Rail Trail.

    Exploring the rolling green slopes and historic towns of the 24-kilometre Tweed section of the Northern Rivers Rail Trail is one of the best ways to connect with the region’s lush hinterland and interesting heritage. In this section of the trail, discover the area’s railway history at heritage-listed Murwillumbah Railway Station, and traverse by 18 railway bridges and through two railway tunnels.

    Linking vibrant towns and villages with the larger hub of Murwillumbah, this section of the trail is covered in asphalt or compacted gravel, making it accessible for all ages and abilities, from prams to adaptive bikes. 

    7. Linger longer

    surfer at fingal heads the tweed
    Enjoy beachside locations, like Fingal Heads.

    Linger longer at one of the seven idyllic beach, river and creekside locations of Tweed Holiday Parks – including at Tweed Heads, Kingscliff Beach, Hastings Point and Pottsville South. All just steps from the water’s edge, they make the ideal base to unwind, or head out for exploration of The Tweed. Choose from luxury waterfront cabins, accessible cabins, surfari tents (yes, they are basically glamping tents) or spacious sites for caravans, motorhomes and campervans or tents.

    Tweed Holiday Parks
    Stay for longer and indulge in plat at Tweed Holiday Parks.

    Find your feel-good summer in The Tweed at visitthetweed.com.au .