Snow days in Thredbo

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Since falling hard for Thredbo on a snow trip more than a decade ago, I’ve become a passionate advocate for Australia’s own winter wonderland.

Regrettably, I was a latecomer to snow holidays and their affiliated joys. While I’d always longed to frolic in water’s crystalline form, circumstance and a northern coastal upbringing kept me away until my mid-twenties.

By then, film-fuelled notions of knitted Fair Isle jumpers, mulled wine sipped by log fires and pine-hemmed gingerbread houses dusted in sugary snow were hard-set in my mind as benchmarks for wintry beauty.

First impressions

So, when in the early bloom of a new relationship, my then-boyfriend (spoiler: now husband) took me to Thredbo, expectations were high.

This must be true love and surely will unlock new levels of romance. There will be cute beanies, mountaintop embraces and I will, of course, be fabulous at snowboarding, impressing with my obvious agility.

I was unprepared for two things. First, a new nemesis in the form of chairlifts (more on that later). Second, the astonishing loveliness of the Australian snowfields, which was not at all the cliché I had in my mind. If you’ve been to Thredbo, you know that winding down into the valley through the Snowy Mountains from Jindabyne is a rush of anticipation that reveals a wildly undersold and, I personally think, under-celebrated landscape.

Thredbo landscape
The valley through the Snowy Mountains from Jindabyne is an under-celebrated landscape. (Image: Salty Wings)

Light bounces from the snow-cloaked gum trees, glinting and winking with the promise of smooth, white runs beyond. Streams trickle icily between soft alabaster banks, where sturdy, native grasses emerge like an echidna’s spikes. Beyond, chairlifts festoon the mountainside, their passengers dangling their heavy-booted legs as they chat excitedly about their next descent.

As the Snowies rise up behind forests of eucalypts, lit by the unmistakable vibrancy of an antipodean sun, the landscape is oddly foreign yet entirely familiar. We’re unaccustomed to seeing our sunburnt country soothed by a fluffy, white quilt, tucked into the corners of soaring mountain ranges, and so this scene has a wonderfully, almost surreal quality. It’s for that reason that I believe Thredbo is amply worthy of a visit.

Drone shot of Thredbo village and mountain
Seeing the scenery blanketed in snow has a wonderfully, almost surreal quality.

Naturally, there are other reasons, too. Not least the fact that this is a snow holiday that many east coasters can reasonably drive to – no passports or planes required. You also needn’t ski or snowboard to enjoy a winter interlude, as there’s so much amenity and activity built into the season’s calendar, from events and tours to gentle gondola rides and dinners at Eagles Nest, the highest restaurant in Australia.

Family standing on bridge looking over valley in Thredbo
Thredbo is amply worthy of a visit. (Image: Destination NSW)

Why Thredbo needs to be on your winter hit list

Since that first trip to Thredbo, when I fell in love with this pocket of NSW (and aforementioned future-husband), I’ve been surprised by how often people opt to travel overseas instead of coming here.

Granted, the season is short and competes with a European summer for the holiday time slot, but here falls snow – in your own backyard. It’s utterly worthy of a mini-break. Yes, it can cost a bit if you’re comparing apples to oranges and looking at lift passes overseas, where the seasons are much longer and more populated. But there are also bird specials and budget-friendly options. And things start to level out when you remember that you’re not paying for an overseas airfare.

Aerial view of skiers at Thredbo
Join snow-goers as they slice the slopes. (Image: Salty Wings)

Back to those ski lifts, which, while repeatedly defeating me also fast-tracked my new relationship. Not to greater levels of romance, mind you, but rather comfortability, as I never once dismounted with any shred of dignity. All pretence of sporting prowess was swiftly bulldozed and so aching was my body from the effort to remain upright on a snowboard that romance was sidelined in favour of beer at the end of the day. It was a good time.

Karel's sunrise at Thredbo
You could have a love-hate relationship with the chairlift.

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Memory making adventures

Fourteen years later, the relationship has endured, as have my fond memories of that first Thredbo trip. I didn’t want the resulting humans of that union to miss out on childhood snow times like I did, so we piled into the car and drove to the snow. Because, you know, you can do that in Australia.

Skier at Thredbo
Make fond memories at the snow.

As it turns out, my inability to exit a chairlift without skidding into a jumble of limbs has also endured. So, I enlisted the help of an instructor who gallantly persevered with my tuition as I maintained my spotless record of crashing out of the chair and into nearby snow-goers. It didn’t matter to me that my skill level hadn’t changed, what mattered was that Thredbo hadn’t changed. It was still the wonderland I remembered. A playground of otherworldly beauty where the Australian bush is marshmallowed with pillowy snow and the landscape captivates from the flats to white-dipped peaks.

Snow shoeing at Thredbo
Thredbo is a playground of otherworldly beauty.

Still, in an effort to bypass any genetic lack of coordination, I enrolled my five-year-old son into Burton Riglets, the fantastic snowboarding school at Thredboland , which is set in the snowy playpen of Friday Flat. To the delight of my snow-sport enthusiast husband, the kid seemed a natural. But what I enjoyed most was watching his little face illuminate with sheer joy as his small hand formed around his first-ever snowball – which he then pegged with alarming accuracy and a questionable level of glee at his two-year-old sister.

A skier and a snowboarder at Thredbo
Enrol in lessons if it’s your first time hitting the slopes.

Freeze that image there, because if you’re a parent, that’s another reason why you should snow in Oz. Would I take two kids, one of them a toddler, on an international flight lugging snowboard bags and all manner of paraphernalia required to placate the ludicrous demands of children? Nope. But I can throw it all in the car and park directly at the snowfields. Even if you’re unencumbered by dependants, Thredbo is easy, beautiful and utterly magical. There’s nothing like seeing our dusty-green Australian bush softened by shimmering snowflakes. It’s enough to make you fall in love.

Thredbo sign
There’s no need to take kids overseas to see snow.

Where to stay in Thredbo

THREDBO ALPINE HOTEL

Lean into the ski village vibes at Thredbo Alpine Hotel with its chalet-style wood-panelled walls, easy access to lifts and cosy fireside bar.

Daytime exterior of Thredbo Alpine Hotel
Stay at Thredbo Alpine Hotel.

THREDBO ALPINE APARTMENTS

Great for groups, these self-contained village abodes make an ideal base for breaks in snow pursuits. Access to the Kosciuszko Express Chairlift is via a pedestrian bridge and you can easily shuttle to Friday Flat.

JINDABYNE

It’s just a 30-minute drive from Jindabyne to Thredbo, making the town a great and affordable place to stay with plenty of accommodation options.

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What to do in Thredbo

THREDBOLAND

Thredboland on Friday Flat is where skiing and snowboarding lessons for the young begin. The Snowsports School also caters to adults with private one-on-one or group lessons from beginners to advanced.

ON-MOUNTAIN EXPERIENCES

Each season, Thredbo launches its series of special experiences, from tours to dinners – don’t miss the four-course dinner at Kareela Hutte .

Kareela Hutte at Thredbo
Enjoy a four-course dinner at Kareela Hutte. (Image: Threbo Resort)

SATURDAY FIREWORKS

Coinciding with the adult flare run every Saturday is the fireworks display , which illuminates the ski fields with kaleidoscopic colour.

Where to eat and drink in Thredbo

MERRITTS MOUNTAIN HOUSE

Take the Merritts gondola for a good time with delicious fare and live music on the deck.

THE DENMAN

Set the mood to romance at The Denman ’s casual but elegant Terrace Restaurant in the village. Stop by the bar first to recount the day’s triumphs before settling in for a well-finessed meal.

The Denman exterior at Thredbo
Set the mood for romance at The Denman.

Good to know

Get a jump on your holiday and book the early bird specials , which are released ahead of the opening season and offer significant discounts. Be mindful that opening week can be a risky time to go if snowfall hasn’t been abundant, so be prepared to just enjoy the beauty of the Snowies and the village vibe.

Thredbo guides in snow
Book the early bird specials to save money.
Lara Picone
Working for many of Australia’s top publications, Lara Picone has had the distinct pleasure of writing, editing and curating content about the finer things in life for more than 15 years. Graduating from Macquarie University with a Bachelor of Arts in Communication, her editorial foundation began at Qantas: The Australian Way magazine, before moving on to learn the fast-paced ropes of a weekly magazine at Sunday Magazine and picking up the art of brand curation at donna hay magazine. Pivoting a near-problematic travel lust into a career move by combining it with storytelling and a curious appetite, her next role was as Deputy Editor of SBS Feast magazine and later Online Editor of SBS Food online. She then stepped into her dream job as Editor of Australian Traveller before becoming Online Editor for both International Traveller and Australian Traveller. Now as a freelancer, Lara always has her passport at-the-ready to take flight on assignment for the Australian Traveller team, as well as for publications such as Qantas Magazine, Escape and The Weekend Australian. As ever, her appetite is the first thing she packs.
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Where to eat, sleep and visit on Grand Pacific Drive, and beyond

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    The ultimate road trip begins and ends on NSW’s stunning Grand Pacific Drive.

    Whales, charming villages, fine wine and stunning natural vistas: there’s a lot to love about a road trip along the Grand Pacific Drive in New South Wales. Winding from the Royal National Park through Wollongong, Shellharbour, Kiama and Shoalhaven before heading inland to the Southern Highlands, this scenic drive makes for an unforgettable road trip.

    But like all great road trips, it’s not just about the drive but the stops made along the way. From incredible farm-to-plate (and grape-to-glass) dining options to unbeatable natural vistas and quaint towns with beautiful accommodation, there’s plenty to explore en route.

    Shellharbour Marina
    Spend time in Shellharbour Marina.

    Where to eat

    What is a road trip without incredible food? Whether you’re after fresh seafood, slow-cooked paddock-to-plate feasts or delicious wines, you’ll find something around every bend along Grand Pacific Drive.

    Restaurant Santino is a local Wollongong secret we can’t keep quiet any longer. With a fresh take on Italian cuisine, servings are hearty and flavours are comforting. The chitarra with blue swimmer crab, garlic, chilli, parsley and crustacean oil is a crowd favourite.

    Keep it local in Shellharbour with a menu all about fresh local produce at Relish on Addison . From South Coast oysters and blue swimmer crab linguine to crispy pork belly, surf and turf takes on an elevated meaning here.

    Kiama’s neighbourhood wine and cocktail bar, Little Betty’s , is just as good for a tasty share plate as it is for creative cocktails. The signature Grilled Octopus with burnt honey, garlic confit and sautéed Asian greens is worth a trip on its own.

    Only the best will do in Shoalhaven, where multi-award-winning Bangalay Dining uses native Australian ingredients to bring its dishes to life. Start with the Smoked trout croquette before moving on to the sautéed potato gnocchi. Don’t forget the white chocolate mousse for dessert.

    Meanwhile, the Southern Highlands are full of culinary highlights. From dining on incredibly fresh, local fare (we’re talking ingredients plucked from the team’s on-site kitchen garden or sourced through local producers) at Eschalot Restaurant in Berrima to creating gin blends at Millsheds Distillery .

    bangalay dining shoalhaven
    Taste native flavours at Bangalay Dining.

    Exploring nature

    Scenery is everything when hitting the road, and Grand Pacific Drive serves it up in spades. Drivers don’t even have to leave the car to enjoy the iconic ocean views from Seacliff Bridge (but several lookouts make it easy to stop).

    Seaside Kiama boasts stunning beaches and famous blowholes. But travellers can also swap ocean for rainforest when taking the Minnamurra Rainforest walk, culminating in a picturesque waterfall. Or soar overhead at Illawarra Fly Treetop Adventures .

    The scenic coastal drive along Sea Cliff Bridge, Clifton.
    Cruise along the stunning Grand Pacific Drive.

    Between May and November, 30,000 whales make their way passed the South Coast between May and November. Spot them from the coastal shores or join a whale-watching cruise from Shellharbour Marina or Jervis Bay. Dive in with Woebegone Freedive .

    Shellharbour’s Killalea Regional Park is home to a traditional bush tucker and medicine walk with Aboriginal tour group, Gumaraa . Learn Indigenous healing practices and gain a deeper appreciation for the rich heritage and wisdom of the land’s Traditional Owners.

    Wollongong is the perfect place for hikers, with the 6.5-kilometre Wodi Wodi track serving up views, settler history and a variety of landscapes in one loop. If you prefer, skip the walk and pull up at Bald Hill Lookout for expansive views south towards Wollongong (and a hang-glider or two).

    For something truly unique, join the Highland Cow experience at The Swallow’s Nest in the Southern Highlands. In a brand-new offering, get a taste of farm life and help groom and feed these gorgeous creatures.

    kiama coast walk people with dog
    Wander the Kiama Coast Walk.

    Unique experiences

    No need to choose between an adrenaline rush or a culture fix, Grand Pacific Drive serves up both.

    Soar into aviation history at Shellharbour’s HARS Aviation Museum .  Tour the museum, then join a guided walk onto the wing of the record-breaking Qantas Boeing 747 and see the significant historic aircraft up close.

    If ever there was a place to skydive, it’s in Wollongong. Dive from 15,000 feet (tandem, of course) with Sky Dive Wollongong and see the coastal beauty of this region from above.

    Shoalhaven’s Bundanon Art Museum has to be one of the most unique offerings in the country. The legacy of artist Arthur Boyd and more than just a gallery, find eco-accommodation, fine dining, award-winning architecture and community here.

    Kiama’s Crooked River Estate is about more than just delicious wine.  Grab a picnic blanket and enjoy casual food and drinks with live music at Kick Back Fridays , every week.

    Between June and August, the Southern Highlands’ Robertson attracts novice truffle hunters. Join the hunt at family-owned and operated Robertson Truffles (alternatively, you can order truffle treats online, if your sense of adventure isn’t up for it).

    Freshly dug truffles at Terra Preta Truffles, Braidwood.
    Discover hidden gems beneath the soil in the Southern Highlands. (Image: Destination NSW)

    Where to stay

    Road trips are the ultimate promotion for slow travel, encouraging visitors to take their time, enjoy the journey and stop along the way to really immerse themselves in local towns.

    Find history and elegance at Berida Hotel in the Southern Highlands. Intimately set amongst gardens, but still close to the main street of Bowral, this 1920s private residence turned boutique hotel is the perfect stay.

    Stay in one of Barranca’s private villas with views of rolling farmland overlooking the dramatic escarpment at Kangaroo Valley or be surrounded by native bushland (a short walk from the beach) in Jervis Bay.

    Speaking of beachside escapes, Headlands Hotel Austinmer Beach delivers unrivalled access to Wollongong’s beaches. These serviced apartments enjoy coastal views from spacious balconies.

    For something completely different again, check in at Cicada Luxury Camping . Stay in safari-style or large bell tents, each with a private fire pit and top-notch kitchen facilities. Outside, enjoy spectacular countryside views.

    Cicada Luxury Camping
    Unwind at Cicada Luxury Camping. (Image: DNSW)

    Discover more and plan your ultimate road trip along the Grand Pacific Drive and beyond at grandpacificdrive.com.au/grand.