Snow days in Thredbo

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Since falling hard for Thredbo on a snow trip more than a decade ago, I’ve become a passionate advocate for Australia’s own winter wonderland.

Regrettably, I was a latecomer to snow holidays and their affiliated joys. While I’d always longed to frolic in water’s crystalline form, circumstance and a northern coastal upbringing kept me away until my mid-twenties.

By then, film-fuelled notions of knitted Fair Isle jumpers, mulled wine sipped by log fires and pine-hemmed gingerbread houses dusted in sugary snow were hard-set in my mind as benchmarks for wintry beauty.

First impressions

So, when in the early bloom of a new relationship, my then-boyfriend (spoiler: now husband) took me to Thredbo, expectations were high.

This must be true love and surely will unlock new levels of romance. There will be cute beanies, mountaintop embraces and I will, of course, be fabulous at snowboarding, impressing with my obvious agility.

I was unprepared for two things. First, a new nemesis in the form of chairlifts (more on that later). Second, the astonishing loveliness of the Australian snowfields, which was not at all the cliché I had in my mind. If you’ve been to Thredbo, you know that winding down into the valley through the Snowy Mountains from Jindabyne is a rush of anticipation that reveals a wildly undersold and, I personally think, under-celebrated landscape.

Thredbo landscape
The valley through the Snowy Mountains from Jindabyne is an under-celebrated landscape. (Image: Salty Wings)

Light bounces from the snow-cloaked gum trees, glinting and winking with the promise of smooth, white runs beyond. Streams trickle icily between soft alabaster banks, where sturdy, native grasses emerge like an echidna’s spikes. Beyond, chairlifts festoon the mountainside, their passengers dangling their heavy-booted legs as they chat excitedly about their next descent.

As the Snowies rise up behind forests of eucalypts, lit by the unmistakable vibrancy of an antipodean sun, the landscape is oddly foreign yet entirely familiar. We’re unaccustomed to seeing our sunburnt country soothed by a fluffy, white quilt, tucked into the corners of soaring mountain ranges, and so this scene has a wonderfully, almost surreal quality. It’s for that reason that I believe Thredbo is amply worthy of a visit.

Drone shot of Thredbo village and mountain
Seeing the scenery blanketed in snow has a wonderfully, almost surreal quality.

Naturally, there are other reasons, too. Not least the fact that this is a snow holiday that many east coasters can reasonably drive to – no passports or planes required. You also needn’t ski or snowboard to enjoy a winter interlude, as there’s so much amenity and activity built into the season’s calendar, from events and tours to gentle gondola rides and dinners at Eagles Nest, the highest restaurant in Australia.

Family standing on bridge looking over valley in Thredbo
Thredbo is amply worthy of a visit. (Image: Destination NSW)

Why Thredbo needs to be on your winter hit list

Since that first trip to Thredbo, when I fell in love with this pocket of NSW (and aforementioned future-husband), I’ve been surprised by how often people opt to travel overseas instead of coming here.

Granted, the season is short and competes with a European summer for the holiday time slot, but here falls snow – in your own backyard. It’s utterly worthy of a mini-break. Yes, it can cost a bit if you’re comparing apples to oranges and looking at lift passes overseas, where the seasons are much longer and more populated. But there are also bird specials and budget-friendly options. And things start to level out when you remember that you’re not paying for an overseas airfare.

Aerial view of skiers at Thredbo
Join snow-goers as they slice the slopes. (Image: Salty Wings)

Back to those ski lifts, which, while repeatedly defeating me also fast-tracked my new relationship. Not to greater levels of romance, mind you, but rather comfortability, as I never once dismounted with any shred of dignity. All pretence of sporting prowess was swiftly bulldozed and so aching was my body from the effort to remain upright on a snowboard that romance was sidelined in favour of beer at the end of the day. It was a good time.

Karel's sunrise at Thredbo
You could have a love-hate relationship with the chairlift.

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Memory making adventures

Fourteen years later, the relationship has endured, as have my fond memories of that first Thredbo trip. I didn’t want the resulting humans of that union to miss out on childhood snow times like I did, so we piled into the car and drove to the snow. Because, you know, you can do that in Australia.

Skier at Thredbo
Make fond memories at the snow.

As it turns out, my inability to exit a chairlift without skidding into a jumble of limbs has also endured. So, I enlisted the help of an instructor who gallantly persevered with my tuition as I maintained my spotless record of crashing out of the chair and into nearby snow-goers. It didn’t matter to me that my skill level hadn’t changed, what mattered was that Thredbo hadn’t changed. It was still the wonderland I remembered. A playground of otherworldly beauty where the Australian bush is marshmallowed with pillowy snow and the landscape captivates from the flats to white-dipped peaks.

Snow shoeing at Thredbo
Thredbo is a playground of otherworldly beauty.

Still, in an effort to bypass any genetic lack of coordination, I enrolled my five-year-old son into Burton Riglets, the fantastic snowboarding school at Thredboland, which is set in the snowy playpen of Friday Flat. To the delight of my snow-sport enthusiast husband, the kid seemed a natural. But what I enjoyed most was watching his little face illuminate with sheer joy as his small hand formed around his first-ever snowball – which he then pegged with alarming accuracy and a questionable level of glee at his two-year-old sister.

A skier and a snowboarder at Thredbo
Enrol in lessons if it’s your first time hitting the slopes.

Freeze that image there, because if you’re a parent, that’s another reason why you should snow in Oz. Would I take two kids, one of them a toddler, on an international flight lugging snowboard bags and all manner of paraphernalia required to placate the ludicrous demands of children? Nope. But I can throw it all in the car and park directly at the snowfields. Even if you’re unencumbered by dependants, Thredbo is easy, beautiful and utterly magical. There’s nothing like seeing our dusty-green Australian bush softened by shimmering snowflakes. It’s enough to make you fall in love.

Thredbo sign
There’s no need to take kids overseas to see snow.

Where to stay in Thredbo

THREDBO ALPINE HOTEL

Lean into the ski village vibes at Thredbo Alpine Hotel with its chalet-style wood-panelled walls, easy access to lifts and cosy fireside bar.

Daytime exterior of Thredbo Alpine Hotel
Stay at Thredbo Alpine Hotel.

THREDBO ALPINE APARTMENTS

Great for groups, these self-contained village abodes make an ideal base for breaks in snow pursuits. Access to the Kosciuszko Express Chairlift is via a pedestrian bridge and you can easily shuttle to Friday Flat.

JINDABYNE

It’s just a 30-minute drive from Jindabyne to Thredbo, making the town a great and affordable place to stay with plenty of accommodation options.

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What to do in Thredbo

THREDBOLAND

Thredboland on Friday Flat is where skiing and snowboarding lessons for the young begin. The Snowsports School also caters to adults with private one-on-one or group lessons from beginners to advanced.

ON-MOUNTAIN EXPERIENCES

Each season, Thredbo launches its series of special experiences, from tours to dinners – don’t miss the four-course dinner at Kareela Hutte.

Kareela Hutte at Thredbo
Enjoy a four-course dinner at Kareela Hutte. (Image: Threbo Resort)

SATURDAY FIREWORKS

Coinciding with the adult flare run every Saturday is the fireworks display, which illuminates the ski fields with kaleidoscopic colour.

Where to eat and drink in Thredbo

MERRITTS MOUNTAIN HOUSE

Take the Merritts gondola for a good time with delicious fare and live music on the deck.

THE DENMAN

Set the mood to romance at The Denman’s casual but elegant Terrace Restaurant in the village. Stop by the bar first to recount the day’s triumphs before settling in for a well-finessed meal.

The Denman exterior at Thredbo
Set the mood for romance at The Denman.

Good to know

Get a jump on your holiday and book the early bird specials, which are released ahead of the opening season and offer significant discounts. Be mindful that opening week can be a risky time to go if snowfall hasn’t been abundant, so be prepared to just enjoy the beauty of the Snowies and the village vibe.

Thredbo guides in snow
Book the early bird specials to save money.

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Lara Picone
Working for many of Australia’s top publications, Lara Picone has had the distinct pleasure of writing, editing and curating content about the finer things in life for more than 15 years. Graduating from Macquarie University with a Bachelor of Arts in Communication, her editorial foundation began at Qantas: The Australian Way magazine, before moving on to learn the fast-paced ropes of a weekly magazine at Sunday Magazine and picking up the art of brand curation at donna hay magazine. Pivoting a near-problematic travel lust into a career move by combining it with storytelling and a curious appetite, her next role was as Deputy Editor of SBS Feast magazine and later Online Editor of SBS Food online. She then stepped into her dream job as Editor of Australian Traveller before becoming Online Editor for both International Traveller and Australian Traveller. Now as a freelancer, Lara always has her passport at-the-ready to take flight on assignment for the Australian Traveller team, as well as for publications such as Qantas Magazine, Escape and The Weekend Australian. As ever, her appetite is the first thing she packs.
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9 of the best Sydney hotel bars for a local adventure

(Credit: Nikki To)

    Lucy Cousins Lucy Cousins
    A great night out doesn’t need a road trip, just the right bar. Swap the long drive for an evening at these standout Sydney venues.

    If you’re thinking of a staycation or a long weekend (with foodie benefits), you can’t get much better than the bright lights and beautiful vistas of Sydney. From tucked-away bars to late-night hidden hangs, Australia’s (unofficial) favourite city is packed full of venues that make staying local feel like an adventure.

    1. El Vista, Circular Quay

    bar tender at El Vista, Circular Quay sydney hotel bars
    Enjoy tasty cocktails and gorgeous Sydney views. (Credit: Mario Francisco)

    This welcoming bar by the Maybe Sammy team offers a fun buzz and jaw-dropping harbour views. Part of the Pullman Quay Grand Sydney Harbour, this lounge bar sits above Circular Quay with the harbour on one side and the Botanical Gardens on the other. You may start here for pre-dinner drinks, but you won’t want to leave before the early hours. If the 1960s Acapulco vibe isn’t enough, the views will be – the Sydney Harbour Bridge is so close it hardly fits in the window, while ferries glide by all night.

    2. Bar Allora, CBD

    Bar Allora, CBD Sydney hotel bars
    Settle in for a taste of Italy.

    Inspired by Milan in the 1980s, Bar Allora brings Italian style and culture to the CBD. Although it’s officially part of the Mantra 2 Bond Street hotel, it’s designed to look and feel like you’ve travelled to Italy for all-day dining. Think espresso in the morning, aperitivo in the afternoon and Negronis late into the night. Accompany your liquid diet with Italian-style small plates and pastas with a modern twist.

    3. Percy, Pyrmont

    Percy Sydney hotel bars
    Spanish-style tapas and wine is the name of the game. (Credit: Steven Woodburn)

    Taking centre stage in the luxe foyer of the Woolstore 1888 Hotel in Pyrmont, Percy is a popular Spanish-style tapas and wine bar serving food that makes you want to linger. The restored 138-year-old wool store creates an atmospheric backdrop to your glass of merlot with exposed timber beams, brick and the echoes of Sydney’s past. With an air of Barcelona, expect low conversations, creative dining and the city moments away.

    4. The Crudo Bar at Flaminia, CBD

    The Crudo Bar at Flaminia, CBD Sydney hotel bars
    Seafood lovers should head to The Crudo Bar. (Credit: Nikki To)

    Grab a seat at the beautifully designed crudo bar, taking centre stage in Giovanni Pilu’s latest CBD restaurant, Flaminia. Enjoy a glass of chilled Vermentino from Sardinia or prosecco from the hills of Treviso, matched with freshly shucked oysters. Complement your seafood with a range of special dressings, influenced by iconic Italian port cities. It’s the perfect spot for a pre- or post- glass of wine before visiting the Sydney Opera House.

    5. Mee So, Sydney Central

    Mee So sydney
    Enjoy Japanese-influenced food and drinks.

    For something a little different, Mee So is a modern, neon-lit Japanese-influenced bar in the Ibis Sydney Central. Serving bold flavours and umami-heavy dishes alongside sake and yuzu-infused cocktails, this Tokyo-esque venue offers an escape from the busy streets outside. Order steaming ramen, a Japanese whisky, and make a corner of Mee So yours for the night.

    6. Bar Morris, Haymarket

    Bar Morris sydney
    Settle into old-world European glamour.

    Housed in a 1929 heritage-listed building, Bar Morris brings old-world European glamour to the Hotel Morris Sydney, part of Accor’s Handwritten Collection. More of a destination than a pitstop, this bar leans into its Art Deco past with velvet features, intimate lighting and bold brass finishes. Here you can order smaller plates like burrata, cured meats, and seasonal seafood to match your martini.

    7. Pumphouse, Darling Harbour

    Pumphouse sydney
    Enjoy a tipple inside a building from the 1880s.

    When you first walk into Pumphouse, you’ll quickly notice the high ceilings, exposed brick and industrial-style decor. Officially part of the busy Novotel Darling Square, this busy local hang doesn’t feel like it; it’s housed inside a former hydraulic pumping station from the 1880s – hence the name – and is a local institution. Grab a seat if you can and order off the classic modern Australian menu, before trying one of the many craft beers on tap to wash it down.

    8. Wentworth Bar, CBD

    Wentworth Bar sydney hotel bars
    Drink where the celebrities once did.

    Designed for big groups and late-night cocktails, this open-air terrace bar is part of the Sydney Sofitel Wentworth – one of Sydney’s most iconic hotels. Once the watering hole of royals and celebrities, this mid-century building has recently been refurbished to be sleek, modern and inviting. The stunning rooftop bar attracts Sydneysiders who love to watch the sunset with a table full of Vietnamese and French-inspired dishes.

    9. Monica Rooftop Bar, Paddington

    Monica Rooftop Bar, Paddington sydney
    See the city skyline, drink in hand.

    Sitting pretty on top of a restored 110-year-old theatre, Monica is a Hollywood-style rooftop bar with views across Paddington and the city skyline. Part of the 25hrs The Olympia hotel, this isn’t a quick drink kind of place; it’s a ‘let’s stay all night’ kind of venue. Weekend DJs will take you from sunset to late-night conversations, while you graze on ceviche, grilled meats or sharing plates.

    For more information on how to enjoy Sydney for a long weekend, visit ALL.com.