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This quiet corner of coastal NSW is the perfect place to press pause

Credit: Taylah Darnell

How a weekend in the Shoalhaven taught me the art of doing less.

I wake early on Sunday, as I always do. I had hardwired my circadian rhythm long ago; my weekday alarm clock perpetually set to 6:15am. But instead of tossing back the duvet and climbing out of bed, I roll over to face the sliding glass doors of my Oceanside Balcony Suite.

Motel Molly in Mollymook, NSW
Wake up to sunlight drifting through the curtains at Motel Molly. (Credit: Elise Hassey)

It’s my second morning waking up at Motel Molly, a breezy boutique hotel less than 200 metres from the pine-lined shores of Mollymook Beach. I watch as streams of soft golden light pool in dappled patches on the bedspread. My body feels light, my mind quiet; my only pressing thought being the coffee I’m craving from the cafe down the street.

It’s not a feeling I’m used to. After calling Sydney home for more than a decade, I’d grown accustomed to the relentless pace of city living; working a nine-to-five and squeezing social plans, self-care and life admin into the gaps around it. But after just two days in the Shoalhaven region on NSW’s South Coast, I’m starting to remember what it feels like to slow down.

Arrive and unwind

I feel my shoulders begin to soften as soon as my partner veers off the Princes Highway. As if by the flick of a switch, bumper stickers are replaced with rolling paddocks, gum trees and weatherboard homes peeling with sun-bleached paint.

Milton hinterland on the South Coast of NSW
Turn inland at Milton for rolling paddocks of lush green grass. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

Wafts of eucalyptus and freshly mown grass mix with the unmistakable scent of sea salt, creating a distinctly Australian perfume that always feels like coming home.

It’s a strange sensation, considering I’ve just driven three hours from Sydney. But it’s also oddly comforting, like seeing an old friend after years apart and realising nothing has changed.

Keen to stretch our legs, we decide to find a spot to stop for lunch ahead of our hotel check-in. A quick search of Google Maps and we’re heading towards the nearest cafe.

Housed in a 19th-century converted cheese factory on sprawling farmland, Milkhaus is just 10 minutes outside of Milton in the heart of NSW’s South Coast. Its rotating menu is guided by the seasons, rooted in a paddock-to-plate philosophy that champions local produce.

Milkhaus in Milton, NSW
Stop by Milkhaus for delicious meals made with fresh seasonal produce. (Credit: Mikhail Zenon)

Our meals arrive fast – pulled pork and apple slaw for my partner, a hearty autumn vegetable galette for me – and we devour them even faster. Takeaway coffees in hand, we opt for a wander around the rest of the property to help our food settle.

I’m strolling among rows of vegetables in the kitchen garden when it happens once more, and again when we arrive at Motel Molly later that afternoon. An almost imperceptible softening, like someone is turning the volume down in my mind.

Motel Molly in Mollymook, NSW
Motel Molly eases guests into slow coastal living. (Credit: Elise Hassey)

It’s the kind of change that’s easy to miss. But after unpacking my bag and stepping onto the balcony, it’s the crash of waves from Mollymook Beach I hear, not the constant chatter in my head. It’s the fading of an autumn sunset I watch, instead of the glowing screen of my phone. It’s the start of a quiet unravelling back towards myself.

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Nourish body and mind

If the Shoalhaven’s slower pace invites you in, its wellness experiences encourage you to stay. But there’s no pressure to emerge on the other side a new person. Rather than promising a dramatic transformation, it’s a refreshingly grounded approach to wellness travel that simply asks you to slow down and be present.

Mollymook Beach, NSW
The Shoalhaven region simply invites visitors to slow down. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

Unfortunately, stillness has never quite come naturally to me, and old habits die hard. Yet as we arrive at The Heal Zone in Milton, I’m determined to surrender to the process. And if anyone can help me, it’s co-owner Nic Laidlaw.

Together with his partner Madi, Nic has built a space designed to help people reconnect with themselves. He walks us through a quick stretch and breathwork lesson before showing us around the rest of the studio, which we’ll have to ourselves for the next hour.

As soon as Nic closes the door behind him, my partner catches my eye. It’s a knowing look, the kind that says ‘you’re not getting out of this.’ Suddenly, I deeply regret telling him I’d never done a cold plunge before. With countless sessions under his belt, he’s determined to get me in.

The Heal Zone, Milton
Dip into an ice bath before enjoying The Heal Zone's infrared sauna. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)
The Heal Zone in Milton
The writer braves her first cold plunge while her practiced partner watches on. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

The shock lasts only moments, but the sense of accomplishment I feel lingers long after I get out. Somewhere between the initial gasp and the warmth of the sauna that follows, I realise I’d been more afraid of the anticipation than the water itself.

The hardest part, it turns out, isn’t the cold. It’s deciding to feel the fear and do it anyway. Stepping into the icy water wasn’t nearly as difficult as convincing myself I could. And by the time I climb out, shivering and euphoric, I realise I’m capable of more than I give myself credit for.

Food at the Treehouse Cafe in Ulladulla, NSW
Dive into dishes that nourish the soul at local favourites like the Treehouse Cafe. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

This quiet sense of achievement stays with me for the rest of the weekend. While restorative massages soothe my tired muscles and long lunches at local cafes satisfy my soul, it’s the shift in mindset I feel most deeply. Here, wellness isn’t a performance. It’s a personal journey that is as much about your mind as it is your body.

Reconnect with nature

As I lay in bed on Sunday morning, watching the sun spill through the curtains, I feel at peace. I’ve eaten well, I’ve challenged myself, I’ve surrendered to the process, to the art of doing less.

But still, something hovers at the edge of my mind, just out of reach. It follows me as I tie my shoelaces and wander through the front garden of Motel Molly. It lingers as I order two large lattes at the Mollymook Beach Hut Cafe and grab a seat facing the sea.

Mollymook Beach Hut Cafe, NSW
Set up in the sun with your morning coffee at Mollymook Beach Hut Cafe. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

I’m not sure if it’s that first sip of coffee, the rhythmic crash of the waves, or my partner casually inquiring about the day’s plans, but suddenly it comes to me. “Should we go for a walk?"

For as long as I can remember, nature has always been where I go for comfort, clarity and quiet. Whether life feels overwhelming or everything is falling into place, it somehow has a way of putting everything into perspective. It grounds me, softening the blows and amplifying the wins.

Which is why the weekend wouldn’t have felt complete without getting lost in the landscape. While we’d enjoyed a stand-up paddleboarding lesson on Ulladulla Harbour, a guided yoga session by the beach and even a wine tasting overlooking the rolling vineyards of Cupitt’s Estate, we hadn’t stopped and just, well, existed.

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Cupitt's Estate on NSW's South Coast
Treat yourself to wine tasting with a view at Cupitt's Estate. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Om Sweet Om yoga session on NSW's South Coast
Join a beachside yoga session with Om Sweet Om. (Credit: Maddi Trent)

Pulling into Murramarang National Park, I’m content with letting the path lead the way. Coffee cups empty and breakkie rolls devoured for fuel, we make our way down to Pretty Beach for the two-hour hike to Snake Bay. Apart from the occasional solo runner, there’s not another soul in sight.

The walking track traces the narrow strip of sand connecting the ocean and the bush, a patchwork of greens on one side and nothing but blue on the other. Garmin tracking his step count and heart rate, my partner forges ahead.

Murramarang National Park, NSW
The Pretty Beach to Snake Bay track hugs both land and sea. (Credit: Remy Brand)

But I’m in no hurry. I pause often – for the giant coastal banksias lining the track, the fairy wrens flitting in the scrub, the pink shells embedded in the sand. It’s only the grumble of my stomach and the blisters forming on my ankles that eventually coax me back to the car.

That afternoon, we veer back onto the Princes Highway, heading towards Sydney. Tomorrow, my alarm will ring at 6:15am. I’ll get ready for work, commute, answer emails, chase deadlines and fall back into familiar routines. But my body feels rested. My mind is quiet. And I can always come back. Sometimes, that’s all we need to keep going.

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Taylah Darnell
Taylah Darnell is Australian Traveller's Writer & Producer. She has been passionate about writing since she learnt to read, spending many hours either lost in the pages of books or attempting to write her own. This life-long love of words inspired her to study a Bachelor of Communication majoring in Creative Writing at the University of Technology Sydney, where she completed two editorial internships. She began her full-time career in publishing at Ocean Media before scoring her dream job with Australian Traveller. Now as Writer & Producer, Taylah passionately works across both digital platforms and print titles. When she's not wielding a red pen over magazine proofs, you can find Taylah among the aisles of a second-hand bookshop, following a good nature trail or cheering on her EPL team at 3am. While she's keen to check out places like Scotland and North America, her favourite place to explore will always be her homeland.
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After dark: 6 experiences along the Murray lighting up the night

(Credit: Serena Munro)

    Gemma Kaczerepa Gemma Kaczerepa
    See the Murray region in an entirely different light by exploring its night-time experiences and attractions.

    By day, the mighty Murray River is a majestic and ever-changing sight, with river red gums and wetlands stretching along 2500 kilometres. But by night, its cities, towns, villages and landscapes totally transform.

    From Albury Wodonga to Mildura, and everywhere in between, you’ll be in for a multi-sensory and memorable treat encompassing mesmerising light shows, guided ghost tours and vibrant celebrations that capture the nocturnal magic of the river.

    This is no ordinary nighttime adventure; the region becomes an entirely different world when the sun sets. Discover six must-do activities along the Murray that can only be enjoyed after dark.

    1. Share in ghostly tales

    Port After Dark tour Murray at night
    Hold on to your nerve when learning local ghost stories. (Credit: Campaspe Shire Council)

    If you’re up for something a little more spine-tingling, Port After Dark in Echuca is your best bet. Rumour has it that the Port of Echuca Wharf and the buildings around it have long been home to lingering ghosts and mysterious events – like the vengeful woman said to haunt an old tramway bridge and spirits searching for stolen money through the town centre.

    You can hear all about them on this guided lantern tour, which takes place on Wednesday and Saturday nights after dark. The stories are atmospheric and intriguing – you may even spot a ghost or two yourself. If you’d like a more intimate experience, private tours are also available to groups of 15 or more.

    2. Wander art installations

    Bruce Munroe's Fibre Optic Symphoinic Orchestra Murray at night
    See Bruce Munro’s immersive art installation. (Credit: Serena Munro)

    Right near the Perry Sandhills, sits an experience that feels almost otherworldly. Artist Bruce Munro (of Uluru’s Field of Lights fame) has created a Fibre Optic Symphonic Orchestra, a network of 80 Hills Hoists illuminated with fibre optic light combined with the sounds of an orchestra. The clotheslines glow and pulse in time to the specially composed score, immersing you in a dreamscape of light and sound.

    For a different light experience, you’ll find stillness at Trail of Lights, also curated by Munro. Located just 30 minutes away on Lock Island in Mildura, thousands of lights stretch over the landscape, spotlighting both the river and a series of Munro’s sculptures. The trail is intended to be a peaceful and meditative setting for wandering and reflecting.

    3. Learn through lasers

    Heartbeat of the Murray at night
    Travel 30 million years into the Murray’s past at Heartbeat of the Murray. (Credit: Ewen Bell)

    Discover a fascinating history in this dual act of lights and projections on the banks of the Little Murray River. Legends of the Mallee is a multimedia show in Swan Hill combining lasers and lights, which tells the story of the region’s rich past. Learn about the Wamba Wamba and Wadi Wadi Peoples who first inhabited the area, as well as the figures and events that shaped the Mallee of today.

    The river steals the spotlight in the Heartbeat of the Murray, a multimedia spectacle inside the Pioneer Settlement encompassing lights, lasers, sound and special effects against the natural backdrop. Through a sequence of large-scale animated projections, you’ll go back 30 million years to explore the Murray River’s formation before travelling to the present to learn how it supports modern communities.

    4. Light up the lake

    Lake Mulwala Laser Light Show Murray at night
    Watch the lights and lasers of Lake Mulwala. (Credit: Mulwala Water Ski Club)

    Travelling with kids? Head to Yarrawonga Mulwala and nearby Lake Mulwala for the family-friendly Laser Light & Sound Show. Lights and lasers are projected over the lake and onto curtains of fog, creating a colourful and high-energy visual display. The show suits all ages and tastes, set to a mix of songs that everyone knows and loves.

    You can take in the spectacle from either the grassy banks of the lake or book a table at the Mulwala Water Ski Club’s Malibu Deck Cafe, serving pub-style food and refreshing drinks, including excellent classic cocktails. If you’re watching from the foreshore, the show is entirely free, making it a great budget-friendly option.

    5. Be captivated by local culture

    Bullanginya Dreaming Murray at night
    Soak in the culture of the Bangerang People. (Credit: Laser Vision)

    Set aside an evening to explore Bullanginya Dreaming in Cobram Barooga – you’ll want ample time to take in the stories and symbolism of this immersive laser light and sound trail. The 1.8-kilometre trail explores the storytelling and culture of the Bangerang People, who have long cared for the lands around Bullanginya Lagoon in Barooga. The trail features 12 activations – each telling a different story – and combines dramatic lights and lasers with water and fire.

    Intertwined with the visual displays are Bangerang narratives, giving you meaningful insight into the area’s Indigenous heritage. It’s designed to be explored over 90 or so minutes, encouraging you to move slowly and thoughtfully.

    6. Discover a winter glow

    winterglow festival
    See the streets of Albury Wodonga come to life after dark. (Credit: Visit Albury Wodonga)

    Albury Wodonga comes alive as the weather drops, with an annual celebration of the season on Saturday, 15 August. WinterGlow takes over the CBD and features a vibrant program of things to see, do, learn, eat and drink.

    Take part in hands-on workshops that let you try different art forms and crafts. Feast on street food and winter warmers from local eateries. Browse for artisan wares at the night markets. Watch musical acts on the main stage. Or get involved in different activations, including a silent disco and giant maze. Artificial snow will be falling to add to the festive atmosphere.

    Even wandering the streets and laneways and soaking up the late-night energy will leave you feeling enchanted.

    Start planning a day-to-night adventure along the Murray at visitthemurray.com.au.