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This quiet corner of coastal NSW is the perfect place to press pause

Credit: Taylah Darnell

How a weekend in the Shoalhaven taught me the art of doing less.

I wake early on Sunday, as I always do. I had hardwired my circadian rhythm long ago; my weekday alarm clock perpetually set to 6:15am. But instead of tossing back the duvet and climbing out of bed, I roll over to face the sliding glass doors of my Oceanside Balcony Suite.

Motel Molly in Mollymook, NSW
Wake up to sunlight drifting through the curtains at Motel Molly. (Credit: Elise Hassey)

It’s my second morning waking up at Motel Molly, a breezy boutique hotel less than 200 metres from the pine-lined shores of Mollymook Beach. I watch as streams of soft golden light pool in dappled patches on the bedspread. My body feels light, my mind quiet; my only pressing thought being the coffee I’m craving from the cafe down the street.

It’s not a feeling I’m used to. After calling Sydney home for more than a decade, I’d grown accustomed to the relentless pace of city living; working a nine-to-five and squeezing social plans, self-care and life admin into the gaps around it. But after just two days in the Shoalhaven region on NSW’s South Coast, I’m starting to remember what it feels like to slow down.

Arrive and unwind

I feel my shoulders begin to soften as soon as my partner veers off the Princes Highway. As if by the flick of a switch, bumper stickers are replaced with rolling paddocks, gum trees and weatherboard homes peeling with sun-bleached paint.

Milton hinterland on the South Coast of NSW
Turn inland at Milton for rolling paddocks of lush green grass. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

Wafts of eucalyptus and freshly mown grass mix with the unmistakable scent of sea salt, creating a distinctly Australian perfume that always feels like coming home.

It’s a strange sensation, considering I’ve just driven three hours from Sydney. But it’s also oddly comforting, like seeing an old friend after years apart and realising nothing has changed.

Keen to stretch our legs, we decide to find a spot to stop for lunch ahead of our hotel check-in. A quick search of Google Maps and we’re heading towards the nearest cafe.

Housed in a 19th-century converted cheese factory on sprawling farmland, Milkhaus is just 10 minutes outside of Milton in the heart of NSW’s South Coast. Its rotating menu is guided by the seasons, rooted in a paddock-to-plate philosophy that champions local produce.

Milkhaus in Milton, NSW
Stop by Milkhaus for delicious meals made with fresh seasonal produce. (Credit: Mikhail Zenon)

Our meals arrive fast – pulled pork and apple slaw for my partner, a hearty autumn vegetable galette for me – and we devour them even faster. Takeaway coffees in hand, we opt for a wander around the rest of the property to help our food settle.

I’m strolling among rows of vegetables in the kitchen garden when it happens once more, and again when we arrive at Motel Molly later that afternoon. An almost imperceptible softening, like someone is turning the volume down in my mind.

Motel Molly in Mollymook, NSW
Motel Molly eases guests into slow coastal living. (Credit: Elise Hassey)

It’s the kind of change that’s easy to miss. But after unpacking my bag and stepping onto the balcony, it’s the crash of waves from Mollymook Beach I hear, not the constant chatter in my head. It’s the fading of an autumn sunset I watch, instead of the glowing screen of my phone. It’s the start of a quiet unravelling back towards myself.

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Nourish body and mind

If the Shoalhaven’s slower pace invites you in, its wellness experiences encourage you to stay. But there’s no pressure to emerge on the other side a new person. Rather than promising a dramatic transformation, it’s a refreshingly grounded approach to wellness travel that simply asks you to slow down and be present.

Mollymook Beach, NSW
The Shoalhaven region simply invites visitors to slow down. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

Unfortunately, stillness has never quite come naturally to me, and old habits die hard. Yet as we arrive at The Heal Zone in Milton, I’m determined to surrender to the process. And if anyone can help me, it’s co-owner Nic Laidlaw.

Together with his partner Madi, Nic has built a space designed to help people reconnect with themselves. He walks us through a quick stretch and breathwork lesson before showing us around the rest of the studio, which we’ll have to ourselves for the next hour.

As soon as Nic closes the door behind him, my partner catches my eye. It’s a knowing look, the kind that says ‘you’re not getting out of this.’ Suddenly, I deeply regret telling him I’d never done a cold plunge before. With countless sessions under his belt, he’s determined to get me in.

The Heal Zone, Milton
Dip into an ice bath before enjoying The Heal Zone's infrared sauna. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)
The Heal Zone in Milton
The writer braves her first cold plunge while her practiced partner watches on. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

The shock lasts only moments, but the sense of accomplishment I feel lingers long after I get out. Somewhere between the initial gasp and the warmth of the sauna that follows, I realise I’d been more afraid of the anticipation than the water itself.

The hardest part, it turns out, isn’t the cold. It’s deciding to feel the fear and do it anyway. Stepping into the icy water wasn’t nearly as difficult as convincing myself I could. And by the time I climb out, shivering and euphoric, I realise I’m capable of more than I give myself credit for.

Food at the Treehouse Cafe in Ulladulla, NSW
Dive into dishes that nourish the soul at local favourites like the Treehouse Cafe. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

This quiet sense of achievement stays with me for the rest of the weekend. While restorative massages soothe my tired muscles and long lunches at local cafes satisfy my soul, it’s the shift in mindset I feel most deeply. Here, wellness isn’t a performance. It’s a personal journey that is as much about your mind as it is your body.

Reconnect with nature

As I lay in bed on Sunday morning, watching the sun spill through the curtains, I feel at peace. I’ve eaten well, I’ve challenged myself, I’ve surrendered to the process, to the art of doing less.

But still, something hovers at the edge of my mind, just out of reach. It follows me as I tie my shoelaces and wander through the front garden of Motel Molly. It lingers as I order two large lattes at the Mollymook Beach Hut Cafe and grab a seat facing the sea.

Mollymook Beach Hut Cafe, NSW
Set up in the sun with your morning coffee at Mollymook Beach Hut Cafe. (Credit: Taylah Darnell)

I’m not sure if it’s that first sip of coffee, the rhythmic crash of the waves, or my partner casually inquiring about the day’s plans, but suddenly it comes to me. “Should we go for a walk?"

For as long as I can remember, nature has always been where I go for comfort, clarity and quiet. Whether life feels overwhelming or everything is falling into place, it somehow has a way of putting everything into perspective. It grounds me, softening the blows and amplifying the wins.

Which is why the weekend wouldn’t have felt complete without getting lost in the landscape. While we’d enjoyed a stand-up paddleboarding lesson on Ulladulla Harbour, a guided yoga session by the beach and even a wine tasting overlooking the rolling vineyards of Cupitt’s Estate, we hadn’t stopped and just, well, existed.

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Cupitt's Estate on NSW's South Coast
Treat yourself to wine tasting with a view at Cupitt's Estate. (Credit: Destination NSW)
Om Sweet Om yoga session on NSW's South Coast
Join a beachside yoga session with Om Sweet Om. (Credit: Maddi Trent)

Pulling into Murramarang National Park, I’m content with letting the path lead the way. Coffee cups empty and breakkie rolls devoured for fuel, we make our way down to Pretty Beach for the two-hour hike to Snake Bay. Apart from the occasional solo runner, there’s not another soul in sight.

The walking track traces the narrow strip of sand connecting the ocean and the bush, a patchwork of greens on one side and nothing but blue on the other. Garmin tracking his step count and heart rate, my partner forges ahead.

Murramarang National Park, NSW
The Pretty Beach to Snake Bay track hugs both land and sea. (Credit: Remy Brand)

But I’m in no hurry. I pause often – for the giant coastal banksias lining the track, the fairy wrens flitting in the scrub, the pink shells embedded in the sand. It’s only the grumble of my stomach and the blisters forming on my ankles that eventually coax me back to the car.

That afternoon, we veer back onto the Princes Highway, heading towards Sydney. Tomorrow, my alarm will ring at 6:15am. I’ll get ready for work, commute, answer emails, chase deadlines and fall back into familiar routines. But my body feels rested. My mind is quiet. And I can always come back. Sometimes, that’s all we need to keep going.

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Taylah Darnell
Taylah Darnell is Australian Traveller's Writer & Producer. She has been passionate about writing since she learnt to read, spending many hours either lost in the pages of books or attempting to write her own. This life-long love of words inspired her to study a Bachelor of Communication majoring in Creative Writing at the University of Technology Sydney, where she completed two editorial internships. She began her full-time career in publishing at Ocean Media before scoring her dream job with Australian Traveller. Now as Writer & Producer, Taylah passionately works across both digital platforms and print titles. When she's not wielding a red pen over magazine proofs, you can find Taylah among the aisles of a second-hand bookshop, following a good nature trail or cheering on her EPL team at 3am. While she's keen to check out places like Scotland and North America, her favourite place to explore will always be her homeland.
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8 reasons it’s time to explore Lismore’s vibrant villages

(Image: Visit Lismore)

    Angela Saurine Angela Saurine
    Think you know Lismore? Think again. From pop-up feasts to a buzzing nightlife to a thriving arts scene, discover a new side of the Northern Rivers.

    Scratch beneath the surface of Lismore and its surrounding villages and you’ll discover a side of the Northern Rivers many travellers don’t expect. Here lies a region bursting with creativity, where vibrant street art, innovative eateries and enriching cultural experiences shape everyday life. Best of all, it’s authentic, and can be enjoyed without the crowds. Here are eight reasons why it deserves a closer look.

    1. Nights come to life

    Lismore's vibrant villages have Patrons enjoying a night out at Eltham Hotel.
    Stay out a little longer and experience the vibrant nightlife. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    The Lismore region stirs after the sun sets, with wine bars, pub gigs, pop-up dinners and live music events at atmospheric country pubs and halls. The Eltham Hotel is a hinterland institution, its verandah regularly echoing with rootsy live music. Nimbin Bush Theatre’s Sonic Bloom nights bring pop-up dinners, films and DJ sets. The Channon Tavern hosts weekend sessions, while Il Carretto’s pizza nights fill Clunes Cafe on Thursday nights and Bexhill Hall on Fridays. Rider Taco Pop Up also brings a laid-back Mexican feast to Clunes, where guests spread out on the grass or gather in the old hall to share freshly made tacos.

    2. A thriving arts and culture scene

    Racing on Molesworth Steet, Lismore for the BBCC Lismore Cycling Festival. Lismore's vibrant villages is filled with murals.
    Follow the Art & Culture Trail. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    The Northern Rivers has long attracted artists, makers and free thinkers, and nowhere is that creative energy more evident than in Lismore and its neighbouring hamlets. The city’s Art & Culture Trail shines a spotlight on the city’s flourishing arts scene, linking galleries, studios and public art across the region. Start at the Lismore Regional Gallery, which has a dynamic mix of contemporary works and community-focused exhibitions. Also keep an eye out for events at The Quad, an open-air space that lights up with live music, projections and family-friendly events. Beyond the city, discover the colourful street murals of Nimbin, browse local art at Blue Knob Gallery or get your hands dirty during a clay workshop at Silt Studio.

    3. Boutique shopping

    Inside Two Ravens Antiques & Collectables in Lismore's vibrant villages.
    Uncover one-of-a-kind finds. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    For travellers who love discovering independent labels and one-of-a-kind finds, Lismore and its nearby villages offer a treasure trove of boutiques. Here, you’ll find everything from clothes and hand-crafted trinkets to books and homewares, each store reflecting the personality of its makers and curators. Highlights include Hanging Rock Flowers, where seasonal blooms meet beautifully chosen artisan gifts, and Two Ravens Antique and Vintage, where a collection of objects whisper stories of the past. Little Polli and the Blackbird offers whimsical fashion and homewares, while Folk Modern champions eclectic textiles and global finds and Valley of the Craftsmen showcases refined handmade artistry.

    4. Diverse food offerings

    Bartenders at the The Levee Lounge and Bar, Lismore
    Settle in for an evening of great drinks and live tunes. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    Lismore’s dining scene is celebrated for its paddock-to-plate produce, global cuisines and cafe culture. At Two Mates Brewing small-batch beers are crafted for easy afternoons, often best enjoyed with a food truck bite, while The Levee Lounge and Bar brings a touch of Melbourne-style polish to town, with cocktails and wine served against the hum of live music.

    Heritage bones meet a modern buzz at The Bank Cafe & Espresso, while smoked meats and fried chicken take centre stage at The Stockpot Kitchen. Housed in a former butter factory, Channon Tavern is the ideal place to while away the day on the grass by Terania Creek, and the The Eltham Hotel offers an upscale food menu with old school charm.

    Find Annies Country Bakery in Modanville on Lismore’s Great Pie Trail, serving award-winning pies, open every day, it’s a great stop on a scenic drive on route to nearby national parks and Rocky Creek Dam. Or pop into Clunes Cafe for regular hosted dinners, each with its own unique flair. Listen to live music while you’re there, and maybe even join in a line dance.

    5. Alternative lifestyles reign

    Streetscape of Nimbin with buskers, Northern Rivers
    Discover a place where freedom, art and community are part of everyday life. (Image: The Legendary Pacific Coast)

    This area has long been a free-spirited community, where counterculture values and creative expression shape everyday life. Its roots trace back to the 1973 Aquarius Festival, when thousands gathered in the hills near Nimbin and the one-time dairy town’s once-quiet streets were painted in kaleidoscopic colour. Many never left, establishing communes and laying the foundations of a community built on sustainability and freedom. Events such as the annual Nimbin MardiGrass festival keep its activist, grassroots spirit alive, while continuing to welcome diverse travellers in search of something a little different.

    6. Breathtaking nature on the doorstep

    Person enjoying a walk through the rainforest in Nightcap National Park.
    Step into a world of ancient forests. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    Lismore acts as the gateway to some of Australia’s most spectacular ancient Gondwana rainforests and untouched wilderness. Nearby Nightcap National Park offers UNESCO-listed rainforest walks and waterfalls, while Rocky Creek Dam is a tranquil spot for picnics and birdlife – and you may even spot a platypus if your timing is right. Whian Whian State Conservation Area reveals lush subtropical trails and hidden swimming holes, while the Northern Rivers Rail Trail winds through farmland and forest, passing historic railway bridges along the way.

    7. Boutique stays

    Contained in Nimbin Accommodation.
    Experience award-winning eco stays. (Image: Contained in Nimbin)

    Accommodation in the Lismore region tends to favour character over gloss, with stays that trade uniform luxury for a stronger sense of place and personality. Lismore Gateway Motel and Invercauld House offer easy comfort close to Lismore CBD, while The Eltham Hotel pairs a lively pub atmosphere with individually designed rooms that reflect the building’s heritage character. Nightcap Ridge secluded luxury eco retreat and Rummery Park Campground in Whian Whian State Conservation Area, and Contained in Nimbin’s award-winning eco cabins, all bring you closer to nature.

    8. Form community connections

    Crowds enjoying the Lismore Lantern Parade on the North Coast.
    Celebrate winter solstice at the Lismore Lantern Parade. (Image: Visit Lismore)

    If you are wanting to immerse yourself more in the community, there are some standout events that embrace Lismore’s individuality. Lismore is known for its markets, so they’re a great place to start. The fire twirling at Lismore’s weekly Thursday produce markets makes for a particularly fun spectacle.

    Friday Meet and Make offers relaxed crafting at The Artisans Table, while Fire Twirling in The Quad delivers a high energy evening spectacle. The legendary Tropical Fruits New Years Eve Festival is a bold celebration of inclusion; Lismore Lantern Parade glows through streets with handmade lanterns on the winter solstice and Italian festival LisAmore! brings music and romance to the town.

    Start planning the ultimate getaway at visitlismore.com.au