A night in the new Wildlife Retreat at Sydney’s Taronga Zoo

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Privileged access to the creatures of the bush – and the jungle – comes with luxe inclusions, expansive harbour views and a conscience.

It’s every child’s dream come true, to be locked inside a zoo once the gates have closed and the visitors have all gone home. And I’m living it. There is nothing nefarious about how I have found myself within the grounds of Sydney’s celebrated Taronga Zoo after dark; rather it is all well conceived and purposeful.

The back story

I am a guest at the Wildlife Retreat at Taronga , a new 62-room eco-retreat owned and operated by the Taronga Conservation Society Australia. It’s a privileged position to be in but a necessary one: as zoos around the world attempt to stay relevant in an age when our senses are heightened to the indignation of keeping majestic animals in enclosures, it is this melding of experience and education – with luxury inclusions and multimillion-dollar views thrown in for good measure – that is designed to ensure the future of places like Taronga, not to mention the vital work it does in conservation (another essential element to any zoo’s trope in the 21st century).

 

With compelling and necessary stories of conservation and citizen science to tell, it is pleasing that Taronga Conservation Society Australia has put such time and consideration into the Wildlife Retreat. Sitting on Cammeraigal country at the edge of Sydney Harbour, the five low-rise lodges, sustainably designed by leading Australian creatives Cox Architecture, sit surprisingly lightly within the environment. The accommodation ‘pods’ are clad in reconstituted timber and metal, their clean, modern lines softened with ample use of tactile blonde sandstone and native plantings.

 

In keeping with Taronga’s focus on sustainability, land care and social responsibility, advice was sought throughout the construction phase and will continue now it is up and running; the property is targeting a five-star Green Star rating.

The rooms are luxuriously appointed

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First impressions

The convivial hub of the property is the ‘nest’, a vast central lounge that is drenched by afternoon sun, its floor-to-ceiling windows framing uninterrupted city views; when night falls the Opera House, Harbour Bridge and city skyline twinkle and dance in the inky darkness. Cosy indoor/outdoor seating areas abound, and there is a bar in the corner ready to supply sundowners at a whim.
While the design and appointments dazzle upon arrival, it is the Sanctuary that confirms the Wildlife Retreat’s intentions. A purpose-designed and built native habitat created exclusively for guests, the space allows for unique encounters with a menagerie of Australian native animals. With a guide/keeper leading the way, we weave through the space, pausing to watch as one of the two resident echidnas (old man Robbie and the younger Wednesday) laps up its dinner with its long, thin tongue, all the while watched over by a duo of shy Tammar wallabies. Encountering our totally unique animals never fails to give me goosebumps, and getting so close is a lump-in-the-throat honour.

Taronga wildlife retreat
Expansive views from the communal lounge

There are animals here I have never even heard of – the red-necked pademelon for one – and those that are instantly emblematic of our country: we finish by watching one of the resident koalas waddle from one tree to another, almost as if it is looking for a more advantageous position to admire the view.

 

Throughout the walk we meet various keepers immersed in facts about their furry charges, and hear stories of how we can make a difference to the future of each one: advice as simple as “plant a tree" to ensure the survival of our koala population has me planning which variety of gum I am going to buy at the garden centre.

 

And that’s the whole point of the Wildlife Retreat: above and beyond offering up a new luxury Sydney stay, this is a brilliantly realised concept in making a real difference to the world through a hearts and mind conversion of its guests.

One of the Sanctuary’s echidnas

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The property

Each room they fill by offering up stylish accommodation, delicious food (the Me-Gal restaurant serves up a generous menu stacked with sustainable and local produce) and the opportunity to look into the eyes of a long-nosed potoroo results in another convert to the cause.

 

After a night spent listening to the whoops and squawks of the zoo’s birds, I rise to take an early morning tour around the grounds before the visitors arrive. While many of the animals are still slumbering, we pass by the gorilla enclosure to find two of the young males searching for their breakfast. I stand in silence and watch as they play, and feel the privilege of my exclusive access, and the responsibility that comes with it.

An en suite bathroom with a nature aspect

Details

Staying there

An overnight stay at the Wildlife Retreat at Taronga is priced from $790 for two adults and includes a two-course dinner, buffet breakfast, exclusive immersive animal experiences and complimentary general admission to the zoo. Proceeds from each and every stay support Taronga’s ongoing work caring for animals within its two zoos here in Australia (Taronga Zoo Sydney and Taronga Western Plains Zoo in Dubbo), as well as through conservation programs around the world.

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7 great day trips from your Coffs Coast homebase

    Meredith Bryan Meredith Bryan
    Make this dazzling stretch of beaches and natural wonders your home base for a grand adventure

    Whether you’re setting out solo, bringing a mate, or packing in the whole family, no road trip along Australia’s East Coast is complete without at least a few days spent exploring the Coffs Coast. A stunning stretch of NSW coastline nestled between ancient high-elevation rainforests and magnificent, undiscovered beaches, Coffs offers amazing biodiversity, stunning natural beauty, and heaps of local charm, without the crowds. Pull up in Coffs Harbour , your perfect home base for these unforgettable day-trips.

    1. Southern Beaches

    The Coffs region boasts 30 of Australia’s most beautiful, unspoiled beaches, directly abutting a dramatic tableau of mountains and rainforests. Drive South of Coffs Harbour to find up-and-coming surf destinations where it’s still possible to catch an empty wave. First up is the picturesque Sawtell village . Wander the famous fig-tree-lined main street packed with laid-back places to eat and drink. Enjoy panoramic views and seasonal whale sightings at Bonville Headland on the Southern end of the beach.

    Nearby Bongil Bongil National Park boasts seven kilometres of empty beach, along with hiking and cycling trails through beachfront rainforests – keep an eye out for koalas living in the trees. Boambee Beach and Boambee Creek Reserve are great for families, with shallow waters perfect for kayaking and SUPing, plus an off-leash dog beach.

    family eating lunch in sawtell
    Experience small-town charm in Sawtell.

    2. Orara Valley Tourist Trail

    The Orara Valley Tourist Trail has it all: hinterland bushwalks, birdwatching, horse riding, pristine swimming holes and rolling green pastures dotted with dairy farms and historic villages. And it’s only 15 minutes west of Coffs Harbour.

    Sample produce at a roadside stall, stop into Coramba Hotel for a quintessential country pub lunch, or try the Idle in Cafe in Nana Glen for coffee and scones. Then spend the afternoon kayaking the Orara River or mountain biking on Mt Coramba. If you’re feeling adventurous, follow the 4WD touring route along the Orara Escarpment in Bindarri National Park , a rugged landscape with dazzling views that winds through untouched eucalypt rainforests and waterfalls.

    A family sitting by the Orara Valley Tourist Trail.
    Explore the green heart of Coffs.

    3. Dorrigo National Park

    Enjoy a classic day trip from Coffs to forest bathe in some of the oldest subtropical rainforests in the world at Dorrigo National Park, part of the World Heritage-listed Gondwana Rainforests. These million-year-old ecosystems promise rare bird sightings, towering strangler figs, and epic walking tracks and picnic spots. Try the 6.6 km Wonga Walk to experience dreamy Crystal Shower Falls (where you can walk behind the falls) and the Skywalk Lookout, which offers spectacular views of the valley and coast. Then stop in Dorrigo town for a homey lunch. It’s worth noting that a section of the road between Ulong and Dorrigo – which dates to the 1880s – is unsealed, adding to the area’s end-of-the-earth allure but making travel difficult in adverse weather conditions. Alternatively, head to Dorrigo via the delightful township of Bellingen .

    Three people standing at the SkyWalk lookout.
    Wander the Skywalk.

    4. Northern Beaches

    For another tranquil expanse of sun, sand and surf breaks, head north to Woolgoolga (Tourism Australia’s Best Mainland Beach for 2025. Taste the coffee and local-produce breakfast at one of several cafes, then spot whales during their migration season along the Woolgoolga Whale Trail to the headland. Emerald Beach offers clear blue waters and another headland walk, perfect for taking in views of South Solitary Island, a dramatically rocky-cliffed island with a historic lighthouse. Red Rock, some 40km north of Coffs and named for its striking coastal rock formations, boasts a gorgeous estuary reserve that’s perfect for languorous days spent picnicking, swimming, fishing, and connecting with the relaxed local pace.

    Freshly caught seafood by the beach, with sparkling ocean views.
    Enjoy fresh seafood overlooking Woolgoolga Beach.

    5. Jetty precinct

    You could easily spend a whole day exploring the Jetty precinct – from its foreshores to the marina to Muttonbird Island. Start with fresh fish and chips from local institution Coffs Harbour Fisherman’s Co-op , before browsing the popular Harbourside Markets held every Sunday on the foreshores.

    Take a scenic walk along the breakwall to Muttonbird Island , a cultural and ecological treasure with panoramic views and rich Gumbaynggirr heritage. The Giidany Miirlarl Education Space shares the island’s ancient stories, or join a guided moonlight tour to see the seasonal return of the muttonbirds.

    Back at the Jetty Strip, find a buzzing mix of cafes, bars and restaurants with cuisines from around the world, open from morning until late. Don’t miss The Jetty Pavilion , a favourite for its unique menu blending modern Australian cuisine with vibrant world flavours.

    walk to muttonbird island from coffs harbour
    Walk the path where land meets sea and sky.

    6. Grafton

    Head inland from mid-October to early November to catch Grafton’s jacaranda season, when the town’s streets and parks are covered in purple. Even better, time your trip between 24 October and 2 November to attend the famous Jacaranda Festival, with special food items, performances and more. At any time of year, follow the self-guided Grafton Heritage Trail to discover the town’s historic buildings, landmarks and stories. Or get the blood pumping with a trip along the longest mapped white-water trail in Australia – the Clarence Canoe and Kayak Trail. Book a tour with Exodus Adventures .

    woman walking through jacaranda trees in grafton
    Time your Grafton trip to see the jacarandas in full bloom. (Image: @myclarencevalley)

    7. Nambucca

    Just south of Coffs Harbour sits Nambucca, the ideal town for a relaxed, coastal day trip. Hire a canoe, kayak or boat to explore over 80 kilometres of waterways stretching from the hinterland to the ocean. For those who prefer to stay on dry land (or double up their adventure for the day), stretch your legs along the V-Wall – a scenic coastal walk along the Nambucca River – dotted with boulders painted by the community, sharing messages, art and local stories. Stop along the way to buy Sydney rock oysters direct from local farmers, or try your own hand at fishing. Before heading back to Coffs, refuel on fresh seafood and wood-fired pizzas at Matilda’s in Nambucca .

    a boat zooming through Nambucca Heads
    Explore Nambucca’s waterways. (Image: Seen Australia)

    Visit coffscoast.com and download the Coffs Coast Explorer App for more daytrips and trails.