5 things you can only see or do in East Arnhem Land

East Arnhem Land is a stunning wilderness bound together by pockets of rich Yolngu culture, well worth a journey, if only to see thriving indigenous communities in action.

Here are five things you’ll want to know before the big journey, writes Steve Madgwick.

1. Think your family is complicated? The Yolngu kinship system…

Yolngu kinship system moity, Arnhem Land, Northern Territory — Think your family is complicated – the Yolgnu kinship system, the people of East Arnhem Land (photo: Elisse Hassey).

In the intricate Yolngu kinship system, each person is one of two classes known as a moiety – Dhuwa or Yirritja. The designation is regardless of clan and derives from the father’s side. Traditionally, everyone must marry outside their own moiety.

Next in the ID tree, everyone also has ‘clan’ and ‘skin’ names, which can make for intensely complex relationships (for an outsider to understand) between siblings. In some instances, certain brothers and sisters are not allowed to speak to each other directly.

The overall objective is for the two moieties to exist in harmony, like ‘Yothu Yindi’, mother and child. Confused? So are we.

Unless you live within this culture it could take years to grasp the nuances of this complex system.

2. Bawaka: the most beautiful beach in Australia?

Bawaka east Arnhem Land — Most beautiful beach in Australia… Don’t even think about swimming, though, at Bawaka, East Arnhem Land (photo: Elise Hassey).

East Arnhem Land has seriously raw natural beauty, but Bawaka, home to the Burarrawanga family, stands tall even in such auspicious company. A couple of very sandy hours’ drive south from Nhulunbuy brings you to the small settlement on palm-tree-strewn, pearl-white beaches.

Bawaka also hosts a variety of cross-cultural activities such as the two-day Gay’wu Women’s Program. You may also want to keep an eye out for resident coconut-loving crocodile ‘Nike’ at this eastern Port Bradshaw homeland.

The reptile was reportedly named in honour of Cathy Freeman’s Olympic heroics and can be seen sunbathing on the sand here.

3. A very different constitution

Buku-Larrnggay Mulka may be the best indigenous art centre in the country, thanks to its powerful variety of Yolngu bark paintings, weavings and jewellery. It also houses modern artefacts critical to Yolngu law and spirituality, headed by the Yirrkala Church Panels.

The two four-metre-tall painted boards (one for each moiety, with all clans represented) are akin to a constitution.

4. Garma: the must-go festival

Garma Festival Dancing, Arnhem Land, Northern Territory — Immersing yourself in Indigenous culture in Arnhem Land with Lirrwi Tourism (photo: Wayne Quilliam).

Everything about modern Yolngu culture is embodied in the annual Garma Festival, held in August (reasonably easy to get to by Arnhem Land standards, if you fly into Nhulunbuy).

It’s arguably Australia’s most important indigenous festival with ceremonies, celebrations and debates.

5. The ethics of dining on dugongs and turtle eggs

Digging for turtle eggs East Arnhem Land — Hard-won right: Waka Mununggurr digging for turtle eggs, East Arnhem Land (photo: Elise Hassey).

Inevitably you will be faced with difficult decisions in East Arnhem Land about eating animals not usually found on your plate.

Hunting and eating turtles and dugongs, for example, is integral to Yolngu culture, a controversial and hard-fought for right.

Waka Mununggurr was protecting his own part of Blue Mud Bay long before Anglo-Australian law allowed him to do so. “I used to chase a lot of Vietnamese, Filipino and Cambodians around those bays. I used to tell them not to be there."

A legal fight then began against commercial fishermen, which ended up in a five-year court battle. This effectively gave the Yolngu sea rights to the area.

Summer transforms the Northern Territory into a lush paradise of colour and life, as a visit during the ‘low-season’ reveals secrets the locals willingly share.

Waterlilies bloom, floodplains are alive with birdlife, waterfalls are gushing, and everywhere the green is dazzling. Summer in the Top End and the Red Centre is a kaleidoscope of unexpected wonders that delight and surprise visitors. Of course, the locals know only too well that the Northern Territory low season is often the best time to see and experience this amazing part of Australia.

Here are some of the reasons why savvy travellers – avoiding the crowds – are discovering a new dimension to the Territory. Remember that you’ll need a Parks Pass to visit national parks.

1. Take a dip in the Florence Falls waterhole

Wander through savanna woodland and monsoon forest to discover the perfect place to cool off – the waterhole at the base of spectacular Florence Falls in the magnificent Litchfield National Park , just 90 minutes’ drive from Darwin. The falls flow year-round but are most spectacular during the summer. Camping is available nearby but bookings are essential and must be made online before you visit.

Surrounded by lush forest, a woman cools off in Florence Falls, just one of many incredible things to do in the Northern Territory. — Cool off beneath the cascading waters of Florence Falls. (Image: Joshua Griffin)

2. Wind down at Buley Rock Hole

Another popular local swimming spot in Litchfield National Park is Buley Rock Hole , open year-round. This is a great place to wind down after exploring everything the park has to offer, including towering termite mounds. Wade through the rock pools, soak up the scenic bush or just lie back and relax as the cool water rolls over you.

Buley Rockhole, Litchfield National Park — Let the cool water wash over you. (Image: Tourism Australia)

3. Tour the Tiwi Islands

The Tiwi Islands , a scenic 80km flight from Darwin across the narrow Clarence and Dundas Straits, reveal a different side to the Territory, with their own distinctive culture. Take a day tour with Tiwi by Design to visit Bathurst Island and learn about creation stories, the Mission days, World War II history and the islanders’ obsession with AFL!

Take a ‘behind-the-scenes’ tour of Tiwi Design’s screen-printing workshop and pick up a great souvenir in the form of art. Choose from contemporary or traditional Tiwi designs and a wide range of work including carvings, paintings, pottery, printmaking, bark paintings and tunga (bark baskets).

A creative moment shared inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing space. — Take a peek inside Tiwi Design’s screen-printing studio. (Image: Tourism NT)

4. Dine in Darwin

Foodies are spoilt for choice in multi-cultural Darwin. Try Sri Lankan flavours at Ella by Minoli, where Masterchef contestant Minoli De Silva creates delectable dishes, or head to Charlie’s of Darwin for gin-tasting, cocktails and more. Bowls of fragrant laksa, excellent coffee, fresh vegetables and authentic crafts are all part of a weekend visit to Darwin’s Parap Markets , Rapid Creek Markets and the Nightcliff Markets .

Prefer to catch your own dinner? Book a Top End fishing charter to bag a barramundi – and from October register for the annual Million Dollar Fish competition. Hooking one of the tagged barra released each year in waterways across the Territory could win you up to $1 million.

A bowl of Laksa. — Eat your way through multicultural Darwin. (Image: Tourism NT)

5. Up close with Uluṟu

The magnificent monolith Uluṟu is even more magical when the summer rains fall. When it rains on The Rock, the locals come out to watch – consider yourself lucky if that happens when you visit. Waterfalls cascading off the sides of Uluṟu is a sight that relatively few tourists see.

There’s so much to do at Uluṟu, from guided walks to learn the stories of the Aṉangu people and the ancient landscape they live in to scenic flights for a bird’s-eye view or a leisurely walk around the base of Uluṟu. Book ahead to spend the evening wandering through the Field of Light installation by Bruce Munro.

A closer look at Uluru and uncover its ancient stories, sacred sites, and striking natural beauty – one of the most iconic things to do in the Northern Territory. — Discover the details that make Uluṟu truly sacred. (Image: Tourism NT)

6. Drive the Red Centre Way

From Alice Springs, take an epic road trip along the Red Centre Way, taking in Uluru and Watarrka National Park, home to the magnificent Kings Canyon. Allow at least a week to drive through the red heart of Australia by 4WD, a little longer on the sealed road by 2WD vehicle, travelling through ochre deserts, palm-lined valleys and dramatic gorges. Stop off at waterholes for a refreshing dip along the way.

Kings Canyon offers hiking options for all levels of fitness, from the three-hour Rim Walk atop soaring sandstone walls to the gentler Kings Creek Walk. Either way, you’ll have breathtaking views.

SEIT Outback Australia is a small group touring specialist offering exciting, adventurous, exclusive and specialised iconic, pioneering and cultural touring in the Red Centre of Australia, giving you the time to learn, absorb and relax in the heart of Australia.<br /><br />This innovative tour company focuses on providing clients with the ultimate interpretive touring experiences with a range of products and customised touring itineraries for small groups and bespoke private charters.<br /><br />The company bases its philosophies from the key words of Spirit, Emotion, Intellect and Task (SEIT). — Drive through Australia’s heart. (Image: Outback Australia Tours)

7. Take a walk at Kata Tjuṯa

Head out early to tackle the Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuṯa . This natural wonder, also known as The Olgas, is a labyrinth of soaring ochre domes that glow golden at sunrise and sunset (the walk may be closed during the middle of the day as temperatures rise).

Walking trails range from easy to longer, more difficult tracks. At the Kata Tjuṯa dune viewing area, take in the panoramic view of the domes. The longest of the trails is the Valley of the Winds Walk, a 7.4km circuit that winds between the domes and through creek beds. It’s moderately difficult and steep in places, but offers stunning views – and occasional encounters with kangaroos.

The Valley of the Winds Walk at Kata Tjuta is one of the most awe-inspiring things to do in the Northern Territory, especially at sunrise when the domes glow golden. — Step into the golden light of Kata Tjuṯa. (Image: Tourism NT)

8. Explore Tjoritja/West MacDonnell Ranges

Tjoritja/West MacDonnell National Park lies 135km west of Alice Springs, with many fascinating natural features to beguile visitors. The ‘West Macs’ formations include chasms, gorges and waterholes – take your swimsuit for a dip at Ormiston Gorge waterhole, open year-round. The Ormiston Pound Walk is a three to four-hour circuit that leaves from the visitor centre and loops back along the gorge via the main waterhole. Other places of interest in the park include Simpsons Gap , Standley Chasm , Ellery Creek Big Hole and Glen Helen .

Soaking in the serenity of Ormiston Gorge, these two travellers enjoy one of the most scenic things to do in the Northern Territory. — Take the plunge at Ormiston Gorge waterhole. (Image: Joshua Griffin Litchfield)

Start planning the NT road trip of a lifetime at northernterritory.com