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Australia’s most unique public toilet is dubbed the Cistern Chapel

Visitors are busting to tour the toilets at Maryborough’s Town Hall, cheekily dubbed the Cistern Chapel.

If you’re anything like me, you avoid public toilets. That’s not the case with Maryborough’s Cistern Chapel. People flock to use the facility and as Nancy Bates says, “Almost everyone leaves here with a smile on their face."

How did this unique toilet come to be?

The Golden Throne
The Golden Throne. (Image: Joanne Karcz)

When community-minded Bates, former editor of the Fraser Coast Chronicle, went to use the toilets in late 2019, she thought, “Hell – this is in the middle of what is now a tourist precinct and it’s not good enough."  She wanted “toilets to pull people off the highway [and] see what other marvels, quirky attractions…we had to offer."

The wall-to-ceiling artworks on the walls took so long to complete that committee member Greig Bolderrow suggested dropping the original name ‘Divine Dunnies’ and calling the facility the ‘Cistern Chapel’. The name stuck.

Since opening in May 2022, thousands have passed through the doors to spend a penny or to be shown around by a “Flusher Usher."

What to expect in the Cistern Chapel

Maryborough's Cistern Chapel inside the Ladies' Loo
Local artist Akos Juhasz painted the murals in the ladies’ and men’s restrooms. (Image: Joanne Karcz)

Volunteer “Flusher Ushers" run the tours. They ensure the coast is clear for men to check out the ladies’ loo, where they’ll hear classical chamber music suited to the feminine theme. Murals depict women in soft white, flowing dresses as they smell and pick the flowers in a cottage garden. Fresh flowers in hand-carved wooden vases adorn the windowsill.

When I take a seat, it’s a little disconcerting that the woman on the wall appears to be watching me. A second cubicle, with walls of gold, houses a golden throne beneath a gilt-framed mirror.

Local artist, Akos Juhasz, painted the ladies’ and men’s toilets. The latter have an industrial feel. The first locomotive to be built in Queensland, the Mary Ann, was built in Maryborough and features on one wall. Beside it is the bespectacled face of Maryborough Mayor Billy Demaine, who defied the no vote in a 1935 referendum to make the city the second in Queensland to get a sewerage system.

Apollo with his magnifying glass in the male toilets.
(Image: Joanne Karcz)

The women in the planning committee had a bit of fun with the men’s loo. A statue of Apollo holds a magnifying glass in his outstretched hand above the urinals as Handel’s Water Music plays in the background.

Gary Madden, also a local, painted the whimsical scene in the parents’ room. It’s a fun place for little people who’ll enjoy finding the creatures hidden in the artwork. Butterflies, a frog, a willy wagtail. Little furry friends fly in the hot air balloons hanging from the ceiling.

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Where to find the Cistern Chapel

Maryborough's Cistern Chapel inside the Ladies' Loo
The cheekily named toiles have become an attraction in their own right. (Image: Joanne Karcz)

Maryborough, a city of Queensland’s Fraser Coast, is a short half-hour drive south of Hervey Bay and a three-hour drive north of Brisbane. The Cistern Chapel is on the side of the Town Hall alongside Town Hall Green.

There’s more to Maryborough than a unique toilet

St Mary of the Cross MacKillop mural on the mural trail
Find St Mary of the Cross MacKillop painted on the Maryborough Mural Trail. (Image: Joanne Karcz)

Visitors will meet a bronze statue of Duncan Chapman, the first ANZAC ashore at Gallipoli, when they discover the Gallipoli to Armistice Trail. Chapman was born in Maryborough.

Story Bank is housed in the former bank where Mary Poppins’ creator, P.L. Travers, was born. The whimsical interactive display will appeal to adults and children alike.

Only one of the 39 VCs awarded for the Gallipoli Campaign is on display outside the Australian War Memorial. You can see it in Maryborough’s Military and Colonial Museum.

Pop into the Visitor Information Centre in the City Hall to collect a map of the two-kilometre mural trail. There are 39 murals to discover. And while you’re there, ask about the free 90-minute Heritage Walking Tour.

Mary Poppins sliding down the banister in Story Bank
Mary Poppins sliding down the banister in Story Bank. (Image: Joanne Karcz)
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What it’s really like to stay on the world’s largest sand island

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

    The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

    But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

    Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

    Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

    Exploring K’gari

    ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island
    Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

    This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

    If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

    The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

    kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island
    Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

    If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

    While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise. Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

    The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

    Unwind at sunset

    two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort
    Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

    As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

    The Sunset Bar, located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

    When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

    Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

    Indulge and disconnect

    woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa
    Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

    The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

    Getting there

    kingfisher bay resort 4wd tour driving passed ss maheno on k'gari island
    The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.