Hotel Review: Hinchinbrook Wilderness Lodge, QLD

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HINCHINBROOK WILDERNESS LODGE is currently closed as it has been destroyed by cyclones and fire. We hope it will be reborn soon.

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Escape to Hinchinbrook Island Wilderness Lodge, an island tree house in far north Queensland for a taste of extreme arboreal luxury.

It’s to be our luxury escape, a little sanity break from the tiny caravan we’re currently calling home as we trip around the Australian countryside. No matter how much you love someone, living in such a confined space has its limits.

 

It is therefore with lofty expectations and high spirits that my husband and I board the ferry from Cardwell across to Hinchinbrook Island on the Great Barrier Reef off the coast of north Queensland. We’ve chosen Hinchinbrook over Queensland’s many other islands largely because of its reputation as a rugged wilderness area. Hinchinbrook covers nearly 400km2, all of which is national park, making it the world’s largest island national park.

 

It’s totally undeveloped except for the Hinchinbrook Island Wilderness Lodge, a small low-key resort on the northern peninsula, Cape Richards. The resort offers some older self-contained beach cabins, but it was the tree houses that caught our eye. Linked by a series of wooden walkways, these lofty cabins sit above the main lodge area, nestled among the treetops, with views over the island and pretty Orchid Beach below. Our caravan safely stored, we’re looking forward to life in a tree house for the next few days.

 

As we approach the island the sheer scale of the landmass is impressive. Steep forest-covered granite mountains rise dramatically from white beaches and mangrove-lined shores. The island’s highest peak, Mount Bowen, stretches into the overcast sky, clouds clinging to its upper slopes like white fairy floss on a stick. A brisk wind chops the water and, encouraged by our enthusiastic and informative skipper, we keep our eyes peeled for resident dugongs.

 

Our first impressions of the resort unfortunately aren’t quite as good. We’re greeted pleasantly but after the obligatory “welcome drink" the young lass showing us to our much-anticipated tree house can’t actually seem to find our cabin. We walk back and forth along the boardwalk exchanging nervous glances as she flits between the different tree houses searching for our room number. In the end my husband bolts up a rather steep set of stairs and yells down that he’s found it.

 

Upon entering our tree house, any problems we’ve just experienced quickly fade into the background. We’ve managed to score one of the best on the island and grin at each other as we climb to our high cabin through rocks and tree trunks. The tree house has been built to blend with the environment and a large boulder forms part of the bedroom wall, while the wooden balcony is shaped around the surrounding trees.

 

There are timber floors and glass windows form the front wall of both the bedroom and the comfortable lounge area, making the most of the vista. Admittedly the building is a little rundown and in need of some TLC; a few doors and windows don’t work properly and for the money we’re spending (the price of a high quality hotel room) we’d expected a little more polish. Nevertheless, the location and novelty factor make up for the shortcomings.

 

While on the island, when we aren’t playing in our tree house, we embark on some great rainforest walks which empty onto deserted beaches, watch the prolific local bird and animal life, relax in deck chairs on Orchid Beach and make the most of the resort canoes. We also take a guided hike to Nina Peak – one of the island’s lower and more accessible mountains, accessed from beautiful Ramsay Beach (reached via a boat trip from the lodge). It’s a worthwhile climb with wonderful views and a fantastic spot for a picnic at the top.

 

Our friendly guide, Wilson, adds to the experience with his extensive knowledge of the island and surrounds. In the evenings we more than replenish our energy at the resort restaurant. A full meal package at Hinchinbrook is pricey, so not wanting to totally crack the budget we’ve brought food across with us for breakfast and lunch, and indulge in meals out at night. The food is exceptionally good, from creative entrees to wonderful mains featuring freshly caught fish and, my favourite, decadent melt-in-the-mouth chocolate desserts. The meals outclass the restaurant service, which is adequate but nothing more.

 

Before we know it, it’s time to return to our more humble living quarters and we board the ferry back to Cardwell. Overall we’re glad we chose Hinchinbrook. The island is a true retreat, rich in natural beauty with plenty to offer outdoor types. Plus, if you decide to spend a little extra, you can play in a tree house designed just for grownups.

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The Details:

Where: Hinchinbrook Island Wilderness Lodge. Off the coast of Cardwell, north Qld.
Best months to go: Dry season, May-Sept, the resort closes during the wet season from Jan 14 to April 1.
Cost: 1-bedroom Tree House $350 per night, 2-bedroom Tree House $410 per night.
Phone: 1800 777 021
Website: www.hinchinbrookresort.com.au

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Tropical islands, good food & world-class shows: Your eventful guide to a holiday in Townsville

    Lee Mylne Lee Mylne
    Townsville is buzzing as the events capital of North Queensland, with a host of festivals, international sporting and arts events on offer.

    Perched between the Coral Sea, the towering pink monolith of Castle Hill, and fringed by ancient rainforest ranges, Townsville North Queensland is a genuine tropical playground.

    Here, find postcard-worthy landscapes all the way from nearby Magnetic Island to inland swimming holes and waterfalls – all dotted with an array of endemic wildlife. Get the heart racing with adrenaline water sports. Soak in a world-class arts scene. And take advantage of a culinary offering that punches well above its weight.

    And, then there’s the fact that Townsville has fast become the destination to an outstanding line-up of events – from live music to top-level sporting contests.

    Whether you have a weekend or weeks, there’s plenty here to fill your tropical getaway.

    Day 1: An eventful day

    Morning

    The Strand in townsville
    Explore The Strand.

    Daily flights offer easy connectivity from all capital cities to Townsville Airport, and within 10 minutes’ drive, you’re in the city centre. Start your stay by recharging with breakfast or coffee at the city’s newest spot, Botaniq Cafe, on the ground floor of the award-winning Bridgewater restaurant on the banks of Ross Creek.

    Start exploring on a breezy walk along the 2.5-kilometre foreshore of The Strand. Here, a waterfront path stretches all the way to the headland of Jezzine Barracks parklands. Admire more than 35 sculptures and artworks, as well as stunning views from the top of the park. Further along, Queens Gardens, established in 1870, offers a cool retreat and is Townsville’s oldest botanic garden.

    Stroll Gregory Street, off The Strand, for boutiques, homeware stores, cafes and restaurants, or follow a self-guided street art walking trail through the city centre, stopping to admire colourful works by big-name artists including Queenslander Fintan Magee.

    Afternoon

    concert in front of castle hill townsville events
    Time your trip for one of many Townsville events.

    For a casual lunch, stop in at Balabite for Mediterranean and Middle Eastern-inspired street food. Build your own pita with a choice of fillings, before enjoying a relaxing afternoon in preparation for one of Townsville’s big events.

    Whether it’s a concert from a big-name international band – think Foo Fighters or Guns ‘n’ Roses – or a night cheering on the Wallabies in the Rugby World Cup, there’s plenty to entertain you.

    Time your visit for events like the Townsville Folk Festival (June 12-14), Supercars Townsville 500 (July 10-12), Sealink Magnetic Island Race Week (August 27-September 2), North Australian Festival of Arts (September 25 – October 11) or see the Wallabies in the Rugby World Cup (coming in 2027).

    Day 2: Island dreaming

    Morning

    Pilgrim Sailing magnetic island
    Take a lunchtime sailing trip with Pilgrim Sailing.

    Fuel up with breakfast at Cbar on The Strand, looking out to your destination for the day: Magnetic Island (or ‘Maggie’ to the locals). Catch a quick ferry to spend the day exploring walking trails through national park, choosing from 23 beaches and trying a hand at the island’s water sports.

    The Forts Walk is the best place to see wild koalas in Australia, and you’re likely to find friendly wallabies at the Nelly or Geoffrey Bay headlands. Try guided snorkelling with Aquascene Magnetic Island or Pleasure Divers, or take a land-based tour with MI Ride Discovery Tours to the secluded west coast of the island.

    Pilgrim Magnetic Island offers four-hour lunchtime sailing trips aboard a 58-foot luxury yacht, dropping in to some of Magnetic Island’s remote bays for snorkelling or swimming and including gourmet grazing platters, drinks and ocean views.

    Afternoon

    picnic bay on magnetic island
    Head to Picnic Bay for delicious dining.

    Refuel after a morning of adventure. Seasalt Arcade at Picnic Bay has several good options. Savour craft brews and Latin tapas at Maggie Island Brewery, opt for bagels and light bites at Lava Lava cafe or fine dining at Restaurant Elsie.

    Now, it’s time to choose your own adventure. Stay the whole day on Maggie, or return to Townsville, where there’s plenty more to discover.

    Head to The Docks at Flinders Street Wharves for lunch. Spend the afternoon relaxing by the beach or join Poseidon Adventures for water sport adventures.

    Evening

    Ardo's Rooftop townsville
    End your day watching the sunset from Ardo’s Rooftop.

    However your day looked, end it with cocktails and canapes at Townsville’s Ardo Rooftop. Find something more substantial at the hotel’s elegant but casual Chef-hatted Japanese restaurant Terasu, where each dish is a work of art.

    Day 3: Natural delights

    Morning

    couple holiding hands at the top of castle hill in townsville
    Join the locals for an early walk to the peak of Castle Hill. (Credit: My Colourful World)

    Join the local early morning pilgrimage to hike up Castle Hill for the best 360-degree views in town, before heading to breakfast at Spirited Goat for gourmet treats and locally brewed coffee.

    A trip to Townsville wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the outer Great Barrier Reef. For those with time, Adrenalin Snorkel and Dive runs full-day trips to the Museum of Underwater Art for snorkellers and divers to admire the reef’s stunning collection of submerged sculptures on John Brewer Reef, about two hours by boat from Townsville.

    Afternoon

    Shorehouse restaurant townsville
    Stop into the award-winning Shorehouse.

    Round off your Townsville getaway with lunch at Shorehouse, awarded Best Restaurant in the North Queensland People’s Choice Awards every year since 2023. Dine on the deck to catch the breeze and sample modern Asian cuisine as you watch the world go.

    Keen for something more to extend your stay? There are always more adventures –new, familiar and with a twist – in the events capital of the North.

    Plan your eventful visit to Townsville North Queensland at townsvillenorthqueensland.com.au.