The Birdsville Track - Australian Traveller

Photographer Marty Schoo gets his wheels dirty on one of Australia’s most iconic and historic drives.

The Birdsville Track and the Australian Outback it crosses can be desolate yet so spectacularly diverse, with landscapes ranging from intricate red dunes and blazing gibber deserts to seasonal rivers and lakes filled with abundant floodwaters.

First opened in the 1800s as part of the route for transporting cattle south from the Northern Territory, the long and dusty track allowed hardy Afghan cameleers to open up Central Australia with supplies, and helped cattle baron Sydney Kidman make his millions. It also created legends like outback mailman Tom Kruse, who delivered mail once a fortnight from 1936. His famous Leyland Badger truck finally expired in 1957.

The Outback is currently greener than it’s ever been, so our first day’s driving takes us past a full Lake Harry (usually dust), a wet Clayton River crossing and a Tirari Desert ferry ride across a flooded Cooper Creek!

After an enjoyable day’s drive, the Mungerannie Hotel is a fantastic spot to refuel, set up camp and refresh with a cool drink, a tasty pre-booked meal and an evening dip in the hot springs – the local pool is fed by warm artesian water.

The next day we drive through the expansive, green-tinged Strzelecki and Sturt Stony Deserts before we arrive, exhausted by the meditations of the road, at Birdsville on the mighty Diamantina River.

We end our journey inspired by the track’s history, and invigorated by the wide open spaces. Less (traffic) really is more.

The route:

The Birdsville Track runs from Marree, SA, to Birdsville, Qld, 12km north of the SA border. The total road distance is about 510km, and it is best broken into a two-day trip. You can top up with petrol (and get new tyres if you need them) at the halfway point of Mungerannie, 210km north of Marree and 301km south of Birdsville. While 4WDs are still recommended, the corrugated dirt road provides a dream run compared to the early days.

The details

When to go

Daytime temperatures are at their most bearable from April to October. In December, January and February, average daily temperatures reach over 36°C – which would put any car’s air conditioning to the test.

Where to stay

Don’t get too excited: there are no flash boutique hotels or luxury lodges out here. Expect basic facilities offered with a good dose of outback hospitality.

Before you head off

Under new ownership, the Marree Hotel offers basic accommodation south of Lake Eyre. Railway Terrace, Marree, SA. Contact: (08) 8675 8344

Halfway

The Mungerannie Hotel has motel-style rooms with a shared ablutions block or campsites next to the Derwent River. Birdsville Track, Mungerannie, SA. Contact: (08) 8675 8317

At trip’s end

The historic, much-loved Birdsville Hotel has 27 motel-style rooms, three offering disabled access. Contact: (07) 4656 3244

The Birdsville Caravan Park , Florence St, Birdsville, Qld. Contact: (07) 4656 3214

For more information

Visit Wirrarri Visitor Information Centre, Birdsville, Qld. Contact: (07) 4656 3300

This new, family-friendly Hamilton Island resort embraces life in the slow lane.

White sand beaches, gentle waves and getting on ‘island time’ have always made Hamilton Island the first spot that comes to mind when thinking of Queensland’s Whitsundays. Always a place to recharge and relax, modern wellness travel here means so much more than a spa treatment or green juice. And a new kind of tropical island stay has now arrived on Hamilton Island.

pool at The Sundays Hamilton Island — Learn to slow down and rejuvinate. (Image: Kara Rosenlund)

The Sundays reimagines laid-back luxury, combining boutique, beachfront accommodation with an encouragement to slow down and appreciate life’s simple pleasures so every day feels like Sunday.

Laid-back luxury

The Sundays is nestled into the picturesque gardens on the northern end of Catseye Beach. Despite a feeling of being away from it all, the resort is a conveniently short walk from Hamilton Island’s main resort centre and restaurants, so guests can have the best of both worlds.

This new boutique stay is all about savouring the now. From complimentary sunrise yoga to moonlight movies for kids and a daily sundae ritual by the beachside pool, it makes a compelling case for doing less, better.

Even the architecture is designed to harmonise with the surrounding tropical landscape, pairing soft curves with a grounded coastal style that shows off the panoramic Coral Sea views and adds to the hotel’s calm aesthetic.

Plus, with direct flights to Hamilton Island from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane in under two and a half hours, as well as complimentary hotel transfers from the airport or marina, getting here is as easy as the vacation itself.

balcony view from room at The Sundays — Enjoy fantastic views from your balcony or terrace. (Image: Sharyn Cairns)

Perfectly designed rooms with amazing views

Every small detail has been considered in the creation of the 59 guest rooms and suites, from in-room amenities by LEIF to walls adorned with custom artworks by First Nations andHungarian artist Tiarna Herczeg. There’s even a signature in-room scent by The Raconteur.

Designed by Hamilton Island’s own designer, Carrie Williams, the result is relaxed Australian style using natural textures and soft hues to lull guests into a mellow state. This soothing palette runs throughout the resort, from its sun lounges to the shaded cabanas.

Every room and suite has been built with a balcony or terrace, perfectly framing postcard-perfect views of the surrounding reef and lush greenery.

inside a room at The Sundays — Stylish rooms feature natural, soothing tones. (Image: Sharyn Cairns)

Excellent activities and amenities

Each day has been planned with a relaxed structure, so guests can get involved in as much or as little as they wish.

Greet each day with morning yoga, pilates and island walks. Recharge with daily (and deliciously complimentary) sundaes by the pool. Wind down with moonlight movies twice a week and take advantage of family-focused features.

Guests have complimentary access to a range of water sports – from stand-up paddle boards to catamarans – so they can get their blood pumping before relaxing by the resort pool.

Or take a few extra steps to set up for a day on the sand without any crowds at the exclusive, guest-only beach. Settle in with a poolside aperitif for a front-row view of the stunning Catseye Bay.

aerial shot of The Sundays pool and catseye beach — Find picturesque Catseye Beach on your doorstep. (Image: Kara Rosenlund)

Delectable dining

What is rejuvenation if not a hearty choice of fresh, delectable dishes? That’s what guests will discover at The Sundays’s onsite restaurant, Catseye Pool Club .

Open all day for hotel guests and lunch and dinner for island diners, this relaxed yet elevated menu was created by acclaimed culinary duo, Josh and Julie Niland. It celebrates that community feeling of mealtimes while championing seasonal Australian produce.

“The vision behind [Catseye Pool Club] reflects so much of what I value – bringing people together to create memories in beautiful surroundings,” explains Josh.

table spread including a lobster dish from Catseye Pool Club, The Sundays — Enjoy classic Aussie meals with a twist at Catseye Pool Club. (Image: Kara Rosenlund)

Based on elevated versions of classic Aussie family dinners, expect refined simplicity. Think roasted Sun Farms Sommerlad chicken with sides like chicken fat roast potatoes, gravy and tomato and grilled bread salad, or barbecued line-caught Bowen coral trout with garlic saltbush and Warrigal greens.

A day spent by the pool can be complemented by a dedicated poolside menu, featuring wood-fired souvas. Don’t want to leave the room? Kick back and soak in the views with tasty treats delivered straight to your door, whether you’re after a full breakfast or late night snack.

view from catseye pool club at The Sundays hamilton island — Enjoy dinner and a view. (Image: Kara Rosenlund)

Exploring the island

While daily life at The Sundays is very much about the art of staying still, guests who seek more can explore the island with ease.

Take a day trip to the striking Whitehaven Beach, or see the iconic Heart Reef from above on a helicopter tour. Pop over to Hamilton Island’s championship golf course for a hit, or explore over 12 kilometres of the island’s stunning nature and wildlife. Later, slow the pace back down with a visit to Spa wumurdaylin .

Looking for more tasty treats? Visit one of the island’s restaurants – there are more than 20 to choose from.

Hikers on passage peak hike on hamilton island — Take on the beautiful hikes of Hamilton Island. (Image: Nick Leary)

Book your stay at The Sundays through hamiltonisland.com.au.