Unearth the surprises of the Scenic Rim

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From camelcinos to Eweghurt, discover the dairy delights of the scenic rim, and plenty more surprises besides.

Known as the ‘green behind the gold’ or the ‘green cauldron’, Queensland’s Scenic Rim is an ancient volcanic land far removed from the glamour of the Gold Coast, less than a two-hour drive away. The traditional country of the Yugambeh people, with World Heritage-listed rainforest and six national parks spread over an area of some 4000 square kilometres, driving the region offers up scenery and surprises aplenty.

eweghurt towri sheep cheesery
Towri Sheep Cheesery’s famous Eweghurt.

Say cheese

Driving just over an hour from Brisbane, I come to the small village of Harrisville. It’s green, undulating country caressed by recent rains, a typical scene of rustic Australian charm. So far, so normal until I pass a sign reading Summer Land Camel Farm.

 

Down a dirt track I go and there they are: camels and more camels. Some come running to greet me, others just give me the inquisitive once-over and continue munching. How they all got here is a question for co-owner Jeff Flood. Over a camelcino in the on-site cafe (one hump or two?), Jeff tells me his story. He and business partner Paul Martin are scientists from different disciplines whose combined knowledge made this venture possible and viable, even through the tough times of the drought

camel scenic rim qld
A friendly face at Summer Land.

Summer Land is the largest commercial camel farm outside of the Middle East, with more than 550 animals, many having been ‘rescued’ from Central Australia and brought here to breed and produce nutritious, organic dairy products: milk, yoghurt, cheese – including a wonderful Persian feta – and a highly awarded skincare range. “We rear our camels with infinite care and treat them with great respect," says Jeff. For them, it’s living the good life… in Camelot.

 

If it’s sheep cheese you prefer (it’s a rarity in Australia because low yields mean high production costs), your next stop should be Towri Sheep Cheesery in Allenview. Here Carolyn and Dallas Davidson will proudly introduce you to their 350 specially bred sheep and the award-winning hand-crafted cheeses, including Ewe Blue, Black Sheep and Eweghurt, that they produce with their milk.

towri sheep chessery allenview qld
One of the Cheesery’s youngest residents.

Accommodating 12 guests in boutique comfort from late July, the Stables here will be available to book out in their entirety for a weekend of milking sheep, making cheese, cuddling lambs and collecting fresh eggs from the property’s chooks.

Wine or Beer? Or Both?

After all that cheese (including those stashed in your Esky) and invigorating fresh country air, you’ll be in the mood for a few tempting vintages. The Scenic Rim is renowned for its prize-winning wineries where you’ll find a variety of styles, including some excellent fortified wines; the port at Bunjurgen Estate is particularly moreish.

 

Meanwhile, Scenic Rim Brewery at Mt Alford specialises in liquid of an amber hue. Try crafty brews with names like Digga’s Pale Ale and Fat Man Maroon Ale, combined with a homemade deli takeaway lunch that can be enjoyed at a scenic picnic spot nearby.

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The Scenic Rim Food Scene

Talented chefs here are passionately embracing the area’s abundance of farm-fresh veggies, meats, relishes, jams and of course, the dairy products. Two of the best-known chefs are Daniel Groneberg and Richard Ousby, both with big-city credentials. Daniel, with over 27 years’ international experience, runs the kitchen at Kooroomba and his love of the “simple aspects of French country-style cooking" is well known. Richard is a recent arrival at The Overflow Estate 1895’s pretty lakefront cafe after a stellar cooking career at Stokehouse Melbourne and Brisbane, raising the bar with menu ideas as fresh as the produce available.

Walking Tracks to try

Food and wine are fine, but the real joy of a Scenic Rim visit is surely the magnificent Green Cauldron countryside, with its dramatic mountain ranges and verdant valleys. From sedate, well-marked tracks, to challenging mountain scrambles, you’ll love walking here.

scenic rim hike
Hiking the Scenic Rim.

Lower Portals Track, Mt Barney National Park (7.4 kilometres/three hours)

 

Mee-Bor-Rum Circuit, Moogerah Peaks National Park, Mt French section (720 metres/15 minutes)

 

Mt Edwards Summit Trail, Moogerah Peaks National Park, Mt Edwards section (six kilometres/3.5 hours)

 

Rainforest Circuit and Mt Cordeaux Track, Main Range National Park, Cunninghams Gap (Rainforest Circuit 1.6 kilometres/30 minutes; Mt Cordeaux Track 6.8 kilometres/2.5 hours)

 

Palm Grove Circuit, Tamborine National Park, Palm Grove section (2.7 kilometres/one hour)

 

Curtis Falls Track, Tamborine National Park, Joalah section (1.1 kilometres/30 minutes)

 

Witches Falls Circuit, Tamborine National Park, Witches Falls section (3.6 kilometres/one hour)

 

Morans Falls, Lamington National Park, Green Mountains section (4.4 kilometres/1.5 hours)

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Getting there

The Scenic Rim region is a one-hour drive from Brisbane and the Gold Coast.

Staying there

The Scenic Rim brims with stylish locations to rest your head after a long day of indulging. Spicers Peak Lodge boasts top-class cuisine.

spicers peak lodge scenic rim qld
Spicers Peak Lodge.

O’Reilly’s Rainforest Retreat for great activities and walks.

 

Nightfall Camp for a unique luxury glamping experience.

 

For more information visit visitscenicrim.com.au

 

Discover the other destinations and experiences that made it into our Top 100 Ways to Holiday Here This Year special edition of Australian Traveller.

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Phil Hawkes
Phillip Hawkes somehow survived a career in tourism marketing, managing ad agencies and PR firms in many locations including London and New York, then finally 25 years based in Hong Kong. He morphed into a travel writer 15 years ago and has had over 120 articles published, focussing on experiences in Asia/Pacific and Europe.
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Tropical islands, good food & world-class shows: Your eventful guide to a holiday in Townsville

    Lee Mylne Lee Mylne
    Townsville is buzzing as the events capital of North Queensland, with a host of festivals, international sporting and arts events on offer.

    Perched between the Coral Sea, the towering pink monolith of Castle Hill, and fringed by ancient rainforest ranges, Townsville North Queensland is a genuine tropical playground.

    Here, find postcard-worthy landscapes all the way from nearby Magnetic Island to inland swimming holes and waterfalls – all dotted with an array of endemic wildlife. Get the heart racing with adrenaline water sports. Soak in a world-class arts scene. And take advantage of a culinary offering that punches well above its weight.

    And, then there’s the fact that Townsville has fast become the destination to an outstanding line-up of events – from live music to top-level sporting contests.

    Whether you have a weekend or weeks, there’s plenty here to fill your tropical getaway.

    Day 1: An eventful day

    Morning

    The Strand in townsville
    Explore The Strand.

    Daily flights offer easy connectivity from all capital cities to Townsville Airport, and within 10 minutes’ drive, you’re in the city centre. Start your stay by recharging with breakfast or coffee at the city’s newest spot, Botaniq Cafe, on the ground floor of the award-winning Bridgewater restaurant on the banks of Ross Creek.

    Start exploring on a breezy walk along the 2.5-kilometre foreshore of The Strand. Here, a waterfront path stretches all the way to the headland of Jezzine Barracks parklands. Admire more than 35 sculptures and artworks, as well as stunning views from the top of the park. Further along, Queens Gardens, established in 1870, offers a cool retreat and is Townsville’s oldest botanic garden.

    Stroll Gregory Street, off The Strand, for boutiques, homeware stores, cafes and restaurants, or follow a self-guided street art walking trail through the city centre, stopping to admire colourful works by big-name artists including Queenslander Fintan Magee.

    Afternoon

    concert in front of castle hill townsville events
    Time your trip for one of many Townsville events.

    For a casual lunch, stop in at Balabite for Mediterranean and Middle Eastern-inspired street food. Build your own pita with a choice of fillings, before enjoying a relaxing afternoon in preparation for one of Townsville’s big events.

    Whether it’s a concert from a big-name international band – think Foo Fighters or Guns ‘n’ Roses – or a night cheering on the Wallabies in the Rugby World Cup, there’s plenty to entertain you.

    Time your visit for events like the Townsville Folk Festival (June 12-14), Supercars Townsville 500 (July 10-12), Sealink Magnetic Island Race Week (August 27-September 2), North Australian Festival of Arts (September 25 – October 11) or see the Wallabies in the Rugby World Cup (coming in 2027).

    Day 2: Island dreaming

    Morning

    Pilgrim Sailing magnetic island
    Take a lunchtime sailing trip with Pilgrim Sailing.

    Fuel up with breakfast at Cbar on The Strand, looking out to your destination for the day: Magnetic Island (or ‘Maggie’ to the locals). Catch a quick ferry to spend the day exploring walking trails through national park, choosing from 23 beaches and trying a hand at the island’s water sports.

    The Forts Walk is the best place to see wild koalas in Australia, and you’re likely to find friendly wallabies at the Nelly or Geoffrey Bay headlands. Try guided snorkelling with Aquascene Magnetic Island or Pleasure Divers, or take a land-based tour with MI Ride Discovery Tours to the secluded west coast of the island.

    Pilgrim Magnetic Island offers four-hour lunchtime sailing trips aboard a 58-foot luxury yacht, dropping in to some of Magnetic Island’s remote bays for snorkelling or swimming and including gourmet grazing platters, drinks and ocean views.

    Afternoon

    picnic bay on magnetic island
    Head to Picnic Bay for delicious dining.

    Refuel after a morning of adventure. Seasalt Arcade at Picnic Bay has several good options. Savour craft brews and Latin tapas at Maggie Island Brewery, opt for bagels and light bites at Lava Lava cafe or fine dining at Restaurant Elsie.

    Now, it’s time to choose your own adventure. Stay the whole day on Maggie, or return to Townsville, where there’s plenty more to discover.

    Head to The Docks at Flinders Street Wharves for lunch. Spend the afternoon relaxing by the beach or join Poseidon Adventures for water sport adventures.

    Evening

    Ardo's Rooftop townsville
    End your day watching the sunset from Ardo’s Rooftop.

    However your day looked, end it with cocktails and canapes at Townsville’s Ardo Rooftop. Find something more substantial at the hotel’s elegant but casual Chef-hatted Japanese restaurant Terasu, where each dish is a work of art.

    Day 3: Natural delights

    Morning

    couple holiding hands at the top of castle hill in townsville
    Join the locals for an early walk to the peak of Castle Hill. (Credit: My Colourful World)

    Join the local early morning pilgrimage to hike up Castle Hill for the best 360-degree views in town, before heading to breakfast at Spirited Goat for gourmet treats and locally brewed coffee.

    A trip to Townsville wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the outer Great Barrier Reef. For those with time, Adrenalin Snorkel and Dive runs full-day trips to the Museum of Underwater Art for snorkellers and divers to admire the reef’s stunning collection of submerged sculptures on John Brewer Reef, about two hours by boat from Townsville.

    Afternoon

    Shorehouse restaurant townsville
    Stop into the award-winning Shorehouse.

    Round off your Townsville getaway with lunch at Shorehouse, awarded Best Restaurant in the North Queensland People’s Choice Awards every year since 2023. Dine on the deck to catch the breeze and sample modern Asian cuisine as you watch the world go.

    Keen for something more to extend your stay? There are always more adventures –new, familiar and with a twist – in the events capital of the North.

    Plan your eventful visit to Townsville North Queensland at townsvillenorthqueensland.com.au.