Australian Traveller was among the first to join the Ngaro Track Walk in Comfort, a 32-kilometre, three-day island walk that connects Whitehaven Beach, Hill Inlet and rainforest trails on Whitsunday Island.
Australia’s multi-day hiking scene is going gangbusters, with trails opening everywhere from Uluru to the Coffs Coast. The latest is the Ngaro Track, a 32-kilometre trek across Queensland’s idyllic Whitsunday Island opened in May 2026. Self-sufficient hikers can tackle this three-day route independently, but I’m here to vouch for the Ngaro Track Walk in Comfort, a supported guided hike with World Expeditions, the track’s exclusive commercial operator.
The track from above. (Credit: Matt Horspool)
Taking walkers deep into the largest island in the Whitsundays, the Ngaro Track offers a chance to slow down and connect with nature and the stories of the island’s Ngaro Traditional Custodians. The Ngaro Track Walk in Comfort allows walkers to carry a lighter pack so you can focus on enjoying the mesmerising scenery and soaking up the knowledge of your expert guides.
What to expect on the Ngaro Track
The hike will take you from beach to rainforest. (Credit: Matt Horspool)
Bowarri Yamba (Moon Camp) camping site along the Ngaro Track. (Credit: Matt Horspool)
Wake up to a view. (Credit: Matt Horspool)
Watch the sun rise over the ocean. (Credit: Matt Horspool)
Uphill climbs are rewarded with spectacular views over the Whitsundays. (Credit: Matt Horspool)
End the day back at Dhula Yamba (Tree Camp). (Credit: Matt Horspool)
Each day on the Ngaro Track, open April to October, involves hiking a newly built trail arcing across the south-eastern corner of the island national park. Fifteen new walkers are permitted on the track daily, but guided walks (including the Ngaro Track Full Pack Guided Hike) have exclusive access, meaning your group will have the trail and camps to yourselves.
Starting near the southern tip of Whitehaven Beach – voted Australia’s best beach in the Australian Traveller Readers’ Choice Awards 2025 – the Ngaro Track Walk in Comfort kicks off with a climb to a stunning lookout then continues through dry rainforest to the elevated Bowarri Yamba (Moon Camp), our group’s favourite. Two camp hosts hike ahead to set up tents with comfy stretcher beds and prepare a hearty dinner so you can relax and watch the moon rise.
Campsites have been thoughtfully built into the landscapes. (Credit: Matt Horspool)
Beginning with a cooked breakfast, day two follows the contours of the coast, weaving through groves of hoop pines and grass trees – and past the odd goanna – before ascending to the lichen-encrusted boulders of Whitsunday Craig (353m) for a picnic lunch with stellar views. There are more viewpoints to enjoy as the track continues down to Dhula Yamba (Tree Camp) tucked in a solitaire palm forest fringing Torres Herald Bay, where you can swim if you opt to carry a supplied stinger suit (a year-round requirement for swimming on guided walks).
You’ll get a bird’s-eye view of it all. (Credit: Matt Horspool)
The third and final day is the longest. Taking you from one side of the island to the other, the undulating track includes the Whitsundays’ only mangrove boardwalk and crosses several creeks, though they weren’t running during our walk. We took a short detour to scoff our falafel salad lunch wraps on Murmuru Bari (Round Rock) with a unique view of the dreamy blues of Hill Inlet before pushing on to the inlet’s silica sands. I couldn’t resist diving into the shimmering aquamarine water before our 1.5-hour boat ride back to the mainland.
Both of the track’s campsites are anchored by an architecturally designed hardwood communal cooking and dining area that blends into the landscape. Camping platforms are comfortably spaced and each camp has a water tank and twin composting toilets, but no showers. Mobile reception on the track is limited, which I (mostly) embraced as a digital detox. Hiking through lush landscapes and learning some of the stories connected to this wild and beautiful island offered a much more meaningful connection.
Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.
AI Prompt
Is the Ngaro track hike ethical?
On the walk, learn about the Ngaro People’s enduring custodianship of the seascape. (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland)
The Ngaro Track was co-designed with the island’s Traditional Ngaro Custodians to ensure cultural heritage is safeguarded and stories are shared respectfully. Even the name is significant, with ‘track’ signifying the Ngaro Dreaming tracks that follow Ngaro Songlines. The track has also played a role in reviving the Ngaro language. Working together, Ngaro families chose names for several special places on the route that hadn’t been officially named before.
The track is also dotted with hardwood posts carved with art and stories supplied by Ngaro families, revealing their continuing connection to this island landscape. Hikers can help to protect this storied Country by staying on the marked path, not touching or removing natural objects or cultural artefacts, leaving no trace and walking with respect at all times.
Travel Details
Only 15 people are allowed to hike the trail per day. (Credit: Matt Horspool)
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Tour cost
The Ngaro Track Walk in Comfort starts from AUD$2195 pp/twin share, including meals and transfers. You can book online via World Expeditions.
Itinerary
Day 1: Pick-up Airlie Beach, boat from Shute Harbour to Whitsunday Island, then hike from Whitehaven Beach to Bowarri Yamba/Moon Camp (8.3 kilometres).
Day 2: A hill climb and views galore en route to Dhula Yamba/Tree Camp (10.8 kilometres).
Day 3: A cross-island trek to Tongue Point, culminating at Hill Inlet (12.8 kilometres). Boat back to Shute Harbour/Airlie Beach.
How difficult is the Ngaro Track?
The hike ranges from Grades 3, 4 and 5 across different sections. (Credit: Matt Horspool)
This moderate walk is graded between Grades 3, 4 and 5 across different sections. Walkers should expect undulating and at times hilly terrain, limited signage and variable footing as the track winds through a diversity of ecosystems.
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Sarah Reid is a multi-award-winning freelance travel writer, author and positive-impact travel advocate. When she’s not out exploring or writing about her adventures (read all about them at sarahreid.com.au), you’ll find her at the beach in her Byron Bay hometown or savouring a glass of Aussie vino in the sun.
There’s more to Australia’s Garden City than meets the eye.
With Victorian-era and traditional Queenslander buildings, an abundance of manicured gardens and the famous Carnival of Flowers painting the streets in vibrant colours each spring, Toowoomba is one of the most charming regional cities in Queensland Country.
While its beauty alone is reason enough to visit, there are lesser-known sides to Toowoomba that locals love most, from its burgeoning culinary scene to its artistic flair. Located just a 90-minute drive from Brisbane (or a direct flight from Sydney), it’s all too easy to discover on a long weekend away.
1. There’s an awesome local arts scene
Find incredible works of art around Toowoomba’s streets. (Credit: Nathan McNeil)
Australia’s second largest inland city is a flourishing arts and culture hub waiting to be discovered. Over 100 vibrant street art murals and graffiti works decorate the city, and they’re best viewed along Bank Lane and Searles Walk.
As a regional city, Toowoomba has direct access to incredibly fresh produce that’s shaping its culinary scene. At sunset, head to the verandah at Rosalie House Cellar Door Restaurant for a grazing-style dining experience and to discover Queensland’s underrated wine scene. Indulge in dishes such as Warilba lamb rump and roasted pumpkin with ginger-roasted potatoes and lime yoghurt, paired with their delicious cool-climate wines.
For a more relaxed affair, sweet tooths should make a beeline for award-winning The Baker’s Duck. Be sure to try their cult favourite strawberry cheesecake danish; you’ll learn why 35,000 of these treats are sold annually.
3. Small bars are doing big work
Pop into small bars like Uno Más.
Toowoomba doesn’t disappoint with fantastic pubs, but discerning drinkers can take happy hour to the next level at one of the city’s impressive small bars. Savour Spanish-style bites paired with a thoughtful line-up of wines at the newly opened Uno Más Tapas & Wine Bar. On Thursdays, head to Cork & Lever to tap your feet to live music over creative cocktails made with their all-Australian gin collection. And enjoy elevated toasties and premium drops at the cosy Press’d Coffee & Wine. Or try newly opened The Book Pour.
4. There’s no shortage of fabulous stays
Chill out in beautiful surrounds at Bunnyconnellen. (Credit: Salt Media)
Whether you prefer the buzz of the city centre or retreating to the hinterland, there are stylish stays aplenty to settle into in this idyllic corner of the world. Apartment-style living can be found at Quest Toowoomba; partly housed in a heritage church building in the city, it’s a comfortable and convenient base. And at The Arbour Boutique Apartments, spacious rooms are injected with old-world charm.
In the hinterland, enjoy bucolic bliss at the boutique Bunnyconnellen, where an 1880s farmhouse and self-contained cottage are backdropped by rolling hills. And at the secluded Ravensbourne Escape, one-bedroom studios, two-bedroom chalets and three-bedroom holiday homes overlook Ravensbourne National Park and the Brisbane and Lockyer Valleys.
5. It’s a nature-lovers paradise
Tackle Table Top Mountain. (Credit: Ariana Potamianakis)
Toowoomba is hugged by national parks, making it a haven for nature lovers. On its doorstep you’ll find the extinct volcanic peak Table Top Mountain, where keen hikers can tackle the challenging two-kilometre return trail which rewards them with 360° views of the Lockyer Valley and surrounds.
For a more gentle experience, Ravensbourne National Park offers peaceful walking trails within lush rainforest. It’s a top spot for bird watching as there are over 110 bird species that call the area home, including the paradise riflebird. Crows Nest National Park is home to platypus and koalas, and its refreshing natural swimming spots, like Kauyoo Pool, are a great place to beat the heat.
6. Wellness enthusiasts are well looked after
Toowoomba’s cool and calm energy lends itself to a wellness-focused getaway. Slated to open in August 2026, soak in the serenity at Vikasati Toowoomba, a bathhouse oasis with outdoor hot and cold magnesium pools, ice baths and Finnish saunas. Rest and recharge at City Cave Toowoomba, which offers float therapy, infrared sauna and massage services, or visit Kalm Springs for LED therapy, cryotherapy and float therapy.
7. It’s preserved its 19th-century charm
Learn all about the history of Cobb+Co.
History buffs can step back in time at Toowoomba’s fascinating cultural and historical museums.
Explore 50,000 years of Darling Downs and Toowoomba history at the Queensland Museum Cobb+Co; it’s known for its impressive National Carriage Collection of 47 restored horse-drawn vehicles, which were put to use for Queensland’s urban expansion. Visitors can also try their hand at blacksmithing or leadlighting in heritage workshops, refuelling with traditional scones at the onsite cafe.
Train enthusiasts can celebrate the golden era of rail travel on a heritage steam locomotive thanks to the volunteer-driven, community-led organisation DownsSteam Toowoomba. Vintage train rides range from a two-hour journey between Toowoomba Station and DownsSteam Railway Museum to an overnight adventure from Toowoomba to the Southern Downs and Granite Belt
8. There are vintage gems waiting to be found
Whether it’s to pick up a unique piece for your home or a one-of-a-kind accessory for a loved one, you’re guaranteed to find something special in one of Toowoomba’s antique and vintage stores. Range Antiques sells everything from furniture, rugs and lamps to fine porcelain, jewellery and art, while Toowoomba Antiques & Collectables is a treasure trove of Art Deco, farmhouse, retro and mid-century modern pieces.
