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The island where koalas crash your dinner reservation

A family was joined by an unexpected dinner guest when dining at Peppers Blue on Blue Resort on Magnetic Island.

I’m halfway through my cured salmon entrée at Peppers Blue on Blue Resort when I hear a commotion. Looking up, I’m surprised to see a small grey koala crawling out of the restaurant onto the verandah where my son and I are having dinner, soaking up the sunset over the marina and the bushy escarpment beyond.

The wayward marsupial ambles down the nearby ramp, before returning to glance at its reflection in the stackable glass doors. A fellow diner phones a wildlife rescue service, but by the time they arrive, the koala is long gone.

A family was joined by an unexpected dinner guest when dining at Peppers Blue on Blue Resort on Magnetic Island.

“Up for Unexpected" is the tagline of local tourism body Townsville Enterprise, and it couldn’t be more fitting for our visit.

But while the encounter caught me off guard, it didn’t completely shock me. Magnetic Island, off the coast of Townsville in North Queensland, has one of the largest concentrations of koalas in Australia.

On the way back to our room that night, I tell Deb at the front desk about our unusual dinner companion. “We had one in reception last week," she replies.

The prime season for koala spotting

Peppers Blue on Blue Resort on Magnetic Island
It’s not the first time a koala has visited Peppers Blue on Blue Resort. (Image: Descent Productions/ Tourism and Events Queensland)

We also happened to be there during dispersal season, which runs from August to March, when young koalas leave their mothers to establish new territories, and older koalas are also active trying to find mates. Unfortunately, it’s also known as “trauma season", when koalas are more vulnerable to risks such as car strikes and dog attacks as they move through unfamiliar areas.

My son and I are unabashed devotees of the hit Netflix TV series Izzy’s Koala World, which is filmed on Magnetic Island, so we’re no strangers to the challenges these furry locals face. The heartwarming doco follows the adventures of a young girl called Izzy Bee as she helps her mum – a veterinarian at Magnetic Island Koala Hospital – rescue, rehabilitate and release injured and orphaned koalas.

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Where to see koalas on Magnetic Island

The Koala Park on Magnetic Island
For a guaranteed sighting, visit The Koala Park on Magnetic Island. (Image: The Edit Suite/ Tourism and Events Queensland)

The Aussie icons can often be seen snoozing in treetops across the island, but the two-kilometre Forts Walk is widely regarded as the prime place to catch one. For a sure-thing encounter, make tracks to Magnetic Island Koala Park, which offers small-group tours led by expert rangers. During our two-hour wander, we’re treated to close-ups of overweight wombats, shy echidnas and even a freshwater crocodile.

Discover beautiful coves with Aquascene Magnetic Island
Discover beautiful coves with Aquascene Magnetic Island. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland/ Jesse Lindemann)

The wildlife magic spills out onto the water as well. While cruising between some of the island’s 23 magical bays with Aquascene Magnetic Island, our guide Adam Hinks — who was crowned Australia’s Top Tour Guide in the 2024 Australia’s Top Tourism Towns Awards — notices a whale breaching on the horizon. We motor over and are treated to a spectacular display.

During a kayak tour at the turtle-filled Horseshoe Bay the next day, our guide Craig Crichton mentions he doesn’t have a TV at home. Instead, his kids are up at dawn, hiking the island’s bush trails in search of echidnas.

More than just wildlife

Aerial view of Magnetic Island
Magnetic Island is off the coast of Townsville. (Image: Mark Fitz/ Tourism and Events Queensland)

With its abundance of wildlife, it’s little wonder that Maggie — as locals affectionately call it — is a drawcard for nature lovers. But that’s really just the beginning. The island also basks in more than 300 days of sunshine a year and carries hints of South-East Asia on its northern side, with beachside massages and open-sided restaurants where you can view blazing orange sunsets.

There’s a laidback vibe here, and quirks around every corner, from toad racing at the Arcadia Village Hotel to the colourful Daihatsu Mira convertible hire cars that cruise its streets. On Maggie, the unexpected is definitely part of the adventure.

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Angela Saurine
Angela Saurine is a freelance writer based on Bundjalung Country in the village of Bangalow, in the Byron Bay hinterland. She began her career as a copykid at The Daily Telegraph in Sydney before setting off to explore the world – spending a few months as a ski bum in Whistler and living the expat life in London. On returning home, Angela climbed the ranks to land her dream role as national travel reporter at News Corp Australia. She’s since journeyed everywhere from Arnhem Land to Antarctica, and from Christmas Island to Easter Island, with a particular passion for Indigenous tourism, islands, snow, food and expedition cruising. Swimming with whale sharks at Ningaloo is at the top of her Aussie bucket list.
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Exploding supernovas & gold fever: discover the past at this outback Qld town

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    Under wide-open outback skies, discover a fossicking gem that’s managed to slip under the radar.

    While the name Clermont may feel new to even the most intrepid traveller, its gilded history stretches back centuries. You’ll find it just off the highway, humming quietly under the hazy veil of Queensland’s outback sun. It’s here, hemmed in by mountains and perched atop soil heavy with the earth’s treasures, that one of Australia’s most accessible outback adventures awaits.

    Thanks to deposits of gold, copper and gemstones – souvenirs left by exploding supernovas and the heave of tectonic plates – Clermont became a centre point of Queensland’s Gold Rush. And now? Australia’s fossicking capital is yours to discover.

    Getting there

    car driving along Capricorn Way in queensland
    Take a drive through Queensland’s Mackay Isaac region. (Image: Sean Scott/ TEQ)

    You’ll find Clermont in Queensland’s Mackay Isaac region. To get here, it’s an easy three-hour drive over sealed roads from Mackay. Or, if you’re heading from the Sapphire Fields of Emerald, the drive will carve out just over an hour from your day.

    Whether you’re road-tripping through outback Queensland or just tracing your way through all that Australia has to offer, Clermont is remote but easily accessible.

    Best accommodation in Clermont

    Theresa CreekDam in clermont
    Camp by Theresa Creek Dam. (Image: Riptide Creative/ TEQ)

    All accommodation comes with a generous helping of country hospitality here. The choice is yours between modern hotels, parking up the camper or pitching a tent.

    Theresa Creek Dam lies just outside town. Begin each day with crisp country air and bright outback sunrises. Spend the night under the sparkling country stars and your days out on the dam fishing or kayaking. Even if you aren’t camping, be sure to save space in your itinerary for an afternoon on the red dirt shore.

    To stay closer to town, opt for a central hotel to base yourself between exploring and fossicking, like Smart Stayzzz Inn and Clermont Country Motor Inn.

    Things to do in Clermont

    three people on a tour with Golden Prospecting
    Join a tour with Golden Prospecting.

    One does not visit Clermont without trying their hand at fossicking. There are strict rules when it comes to fossicking, so stick to areas dedicated for general permission and make sure you obtain your license beforehand. Try your luck at McMasters, Four Mile, Town Desert, McDonald Flat and Flat Diggings. To increase your odds, sign on for a tour with the expert team at Golden Prospecting. They’ll give you access to exclusive plots and expert advice along the way.

    Once you’ve tried your luck on the gold fields, head to the Clermont Township and Historical Museum. Each exhibit works like an archaeologist’s brush to dust away the layers of Clermont’s history. Like the steam engine that painstakingly relocated the entire town inch by inch to higher ground after it was decimated by flooding in 1916. See the tools that helped build the Blair Athol mine, historic fire engines, shearing sheds and all sorts of relics that make up Clermont’s story.

    The historic Copperfield Chimney offers a change of pace. Legend has it that fossickers found a solid wall of copper here, over three metres high, kick-starting Queensland’s first-ever copper mine.

    Bush Heli Services flying over clermont queensland
    See Clermont from above with Bush Heli Services. (Image: Riptide Creative/ TEQ)

    For hiking, nearby Dysart is the best place to access Peak Range National Park. Here, mountainous horizons stretch across the outback as if plucked from another world. Set off for a scenic drive along the Peak Downs Highway for access to countless geological wonders. Like the slanting rockface of Wolfang Peak. Summit it, and you’ll find yourself looking out across a scene surely conjured up by Banjo Paterson. Dry scrub dancing in the warm breeze, grazing cattle, eucalypts and the gentle creak of windmills. Don’t miss visiting Gemini Peaks, either, for one of the park’s best vistas, and a blanket of wild flowers after rain.

    Then, take to the skies with a scenic helicopter tour with Bush Heli-Services. Shift your perspective and cruise above all the sights from your trip. Spots like Lords Table Mountain and Campbell’s Peak are best viewed from the skies.

    Before you head home, be sure to explore the neighbouring townships. Spend a lazy afternoon in the shade of Nebo Hotel’s wrap-around verandahs. The hotel’s 1900s dance hall has since been replaced with one of the area’s biggest rodeo arenas, so consider timing your trip to line up with a boot scootin’ rodeo. Or, stop by a ghost town. Mount Britton was once a thriving town during the 1880s Gold Rush. It’s been totally abandoned and now lies untouched, a perfect relic of the Gold Rush.

    Best restaurants and cafes in Clermont

    meal at Commercial Hotel
    Stop into the Commercial Hotel Clermont.

    Days spent fossicking, bushwalking and cramming on history call for excellent coffee and hearty country meals. Luckily, Clermont delivers in spades.

    Lotta Lattes Cafe is beloved by locals for a reason. Start your days here for the best caffeine fix in town and an impeccable brunch menu.

    For a real country meal, an icy cold beer and that famed country hospitality, head straight to the town’s iconic hotel: the Commercial Hotel (known endearingly to locals as ‘The Commie’). It’s been a staple in Clermont since 1877. The hotel even survived the flood of 1916 when it was sawn in two and moved to higher ground.

    Naturally, time spent in the outback must include calling into the local bakery. For delicious pies and a tantalising array of sweet treats, make Bluemac Bakehouse your go-to while in town.

    Discover more of The Mackay Isaac region, and start planning your trip at mackayisaac.com.