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The island where koalas crash your dinner reservation

A family was joined by an unexpected dinner guest when dining at Peppers Blue on Blue Resort on Magnetic Island.

I’m halfway through my cured salmon entrée at Peppers Blue on Blue Resort when I hear a commotion. Looking up, I’m surprised to see a small grey koala crawling out of the restaurant onto the verandah where my son and I are having dinner, soaking up the sunset over the marina and the bushy escarpment beyond.

The wayward marsupial ambles down the nearby ramp, before returning to glance at its reflection in the stackable glass doors. A fellow diner phones a wildlife rescue service, but by the time they arrive, the koala is long gone.

A family was joined by an unexpected dinner guest when dining at Peppers Blue on Blue Resort on Magnetic Island.

“Up for Unexpected" is the tagline of local tourism body Townsville Enterprise, and it couldn’t be more fitting for our visit.

But while the encounter caught me off guard, it didn’t completely shock me. Magnetic Island, off the coast of Townsville in North Queensland, has one of the largest concentrations of koalas in Australia.

On the way back to our room that night, I tell Deb at the front desk about our unusual dinner companion. “We had one in reception last week," she replies.

The prime season for koala spotting

Peppers Blue on Blue Resort on Magnetic Island
It’s not the first time a koala has visited Peppers Blue on Blue Resort. (Image: Descent Productions/ Tourism and Events Queensland)

We also happened to be there during dispersal season, which runs from August to March, when young koalas leave their mothers to establish new territories, and older koalas are also active trying to find mates. Unfortunately, it’s also known as “trauma season", when koalas are more vulnerable to risks such as car strikes and dog attacks as they move through unfamiliar areas.

My son and I are unabashed devotees of the hit Netflix TV series Izzy’s Koala World, which is filmed on Magnetic Island, so we’re no strangers to the challenges these furry locals face. The heartwarming doco follows the adventures of a young girl called Izzy Bee as she helps her mum – a veterinarian at Magnetic Island Koala Hospital – rescue, rehabilitate and release injured and orphaned koalas.

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Where to see koalas on Magnetic Island

The Koala Park on Magnetic Island
For a guaranteed sighting, visit The Koala Park on Magnetic Island. (Image: The Edit Suite/ Tourism and Events Queensland)

The Aussie icons can often be seen snoozing in treetops across the island, but the two-kilometre Forts Walk is widely regarded as the prime place to catch one. For a sure-thing encounter, make tracks to Magnetic Island Koala Park, which offers small-group tours led by expert rangers. During our two-hour wander, we’re treated to close-ups of overweight wombats, shy echidnas and even a freshwater crocodile.

Discover beautiful coves with Aquascene Magnetic Island
Discover beautiful coves with Aquascene Magnetic Island. (Image: Tourism and Events Queensland/ Jesse Lindemann)

The wildlife magic spills out onto the water as well. While cruising between some of the island’s 23 magical bays with Aquascene Magnetic Island, our guide Adam Hinks — who was crowned Australia’s Top Tour Guide in the 2024 Australia’s Top Tourism Towns Awards — notices a whale breaching on the horizon. We motor over and are treated to a spectacular display.

During a kayak tour at the turtle-filled Horseshoe Bay the next day, our guide Craig Crichton mentions he doesn’t have a TV at home. Instead, his kids are up at dawn, hiking the island’s bush trails in search of echidnas.

More than just wildlife

Aerial view of Magnetic Island
Magnetic Island is off the coast of Townsville. (Image: Mark Fitz/ Tourism and Events Queensland)

With its abundance of wildlife, it’s little wonder that Maggie — as locals affectionately call it — is a drawcard for nature lovers. But that’s really just the beginning. The island also basks in more than 300 days of sunshine a year and carries hints of South-East Asia on its northern side, with beachside massages and open-sided restaurants where you can view blazing orange sunsets.

There’s a laidback vibe here, and quirks around every corner, from toad racing at the Arcadia Village Hotel to the colourful Daihatsu Mira convertible hire cars that cruise its streets. On Maggie, the unexpected is definitely part of the adventure.

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Angela Saurine
Angela Saurine is a freelance writer based on Bundjalung Country in the village of Bangalow, in the Byron Bay hinterland. She began her career as a copykid at The Daily Telegraph in Sydney before setting off to explore the world – spending a few months as a ski bum in Whistler and living the expat life in London. On returning home, Angela climbed the ranks to land her dream role as national travel reporter at News Corp Australia. She’s since journeyed everywhere from Arnhem Land to Antarctica, and from Christmas Island to Easter Island, with a particular passion for Indigenous tourism, islands, snow, food and expedition cruising. Swimming with whale sharks at Ningaloo is at the top of her Aussie bucket list.
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Tropical islands, good food & world-class shows: Your eventful guide to a holiday in Townsville

    Lee Mylne Lee Mylne
    Townsville is buzzing as the events capital of North Queensland, with a host of festivals, international sporting and arts events on offer.

    Perched between the Coral Sea, the towering pink monolith of Castle Hill, and fringed by ancient rainforest ranges, Townsville North Queensland is a genuine tropical playground.

    Here, find postcard-worthy landscapes all the way from nearby Magnetic Island to inland swimming holes and waterfalls – all dotted with an array of endemic wildlife. Get the heart racing with adrenaline water sports. Soak in a world-class arts scene. And take advantage of a culinary offering that punches well above its weight.

    And, then there’s the fact that Townsville has fast become the destination to an outstanding line-up of events – from live music to top-level sporting contests.

    Whether you have a weekend or weeks, there’s plenty here to fill your tropical getaway.

    Day 1: An eventful day

    Morning

    The Strand in townsville
    Explore The Strand.

    Daily flights offer easy connectivity from all capital cities to Townsville Airport, and within 10 minutes’ drive, you’re in the city centre. Start your stay by recharging with breakfast or coffee at the city’s newest spot, Botaniq Cafe, on the ground floor of the award-winning Bridgewater restaurant on the banks of Ross Creek.

    Start exploring on a breezy walk along the 2.5-kilometre foreshore of The Strand. Here, a waterfront path stretches all the way to the headland of Jezzine Barracks parklands. Admire more than 35 sculptures and artworks, as well as stunning views from the top of the park. Further along, Queens Gardens, established in 1870, offers a cool retreat and is Townsville’s oldest botanic garden.

    Stroll Gregory Street, off The Strand, for boutiques, homeware stores, cafes and restaurants, or follow a self-guided street art walking trail through the city centre, stopping to admire colourful works by big-name artists including Queenslander Fintan Magee.

    Afternoon

    concert in front of castle hill townsville events
    Time your trip for one of many Townsville events.

    For a casual lunch, stop in at Balabite for Mediterranean and Middle Eastern-inspired street food. Build your own pita with a choice of fillings, before enjoying a relaxing afternoon in preparation for one of Townsville’s big events.

    Whether it’s a concert from a big-name international band – think Foo Fighters or Guns ‘n’ Roses – or a night cheering on the Wallabies in the Rugby World Cup, there’s plenty to entertain you.

    Time your visit for events like the Townsville Folk Festival (June 12-14), Supercars Townsville 500 (July 10-12), Sealink Magnetic Island Race Week (August 27-September 2), North Australian Festival of Arts (September 25 – October 11) or see the Wallabies in the Rugby World Cup (coming in 2027).

    Day 2: Island dreaming

    Morning

    Pilgrim Sailing magnetic island
    Take a lunchtime sailing trip with Pilgrim Sailing.

    Fuel up with breakfast at Cbar on The Strand, looking out to your destination for the day: Magnetic Island (or ‘Maggie’ to the locals). Catch a quick ferry to spend the day exploring walking trails through national park, choosing from 23 beaches and trying a hand at the island’s water sports.

    The Forts Walk is the best place to see wild koalas in Australia, and you’re likely to find friendly wallabies at the Nelly or Geoffrey Bay headlands. Try guided snorkelling with Aquascene Magnetic Island or Pleasure Divers, or take a land-based tour with MI Ride Discovery Tours to the secluded west coast of the island.

    Pilgrim Magnetic Island offers four-hour lunchtime sailing trips aboard a 58-foot luxury yacht, dropping in to some of Magnetic Island’s remote bays for snorkelling or swimming and including gourmet grazing platters, drinks and ocean views.

    Afternoon

    picnic bay on magnetic island
    Head to Picnic Bay for delicious dining.

    Refuel after a morning of adventure. Seasalt Arcade at Picnic Bay has several good options. Savour craft brews and Latin tapas at Maggie Island Brewery, opt for bagels and light bites at Lava Lava cafe or fine dining at Restaurant Elsie.

    Now, it’s time to choose your own adventure. Stay the whole day on Maggie, or return to Townsville, where there’s plenty more to discover.

    Head to The Docks at Flinders Street Wharves for lunch. Spend the afternoon relaxing by the beach or join Poseidon Adventures for water sport adventures.

    Evening

    Ardo's Rooftop townsville
    End your day watching the sunset from Ardo’s Rooftop.

    However your day looked, end it with cocktails and canapes at Townsville’s Ardo Rooftop. Find something more substantial at the hotel’s elegant but casual Chef-hatted Japanese restaurant Terasu, where each dish is a work of art.

    Day 3: Natural delights

    Morning

    couple holiding hands at the top of castle hill in townsville
    Join the locals for an early walk to the peak of Castle Hill. (Credit: My Colourful World)

    Join the local early morning pilgrimage to hike up Castle Hill for the best 360-degree views in town, before heading to breakfast at Spirited Goat for gourmet treats and locally brewed coffee.

    A trip to Townsville wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the outer Great Barrier Reef. For those with time, Adrenalin Snorkel and Dive runs full-day trips to the Museum of Underwater Art for snorkellers and divers to admire the reef’s stunning collection of submerged sculptures on John Brewer Reef, about two hours by boat from Townsville.

    Afternoon

    Shorehouse restaurant townsville
    Stop into the award-winning Shorehouse.

    Round off your Townsville getaway with lunch at Shorehouse, awarded Best Restaurant in the North Queensland People’s Choice Awards every year since 2023. Dine on the deck to catch the breeze and sample modern Asian cuisine as you watch the world go.

    Keen for something more to extend your stay? There are always more adventures –new, familiar and with a twist – in the events capital of the North.

    Plan your eventful visit to Townsville North Queensland at townsvillenorthqueensland.com.au.