Top Towns for 2022: How three lavish accommodations reinvented Cairns

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With its trio of sustainable hotels and plethora of wining and dining options, Crystalbrook Collection is helping revitalise this perennially popular holiday spot.

Thanks in large part to this revitalisation, Cairns also came in at no.4 on your list of Top 50 Aussie Towns.

Find the complete list of the Top 50 Aussie Towns here.

The first taste of Crystalbrook

Crystalbrook Flynn is the fun one of the bunch: a social butterfly of a five-star hotel. True to form, there’s a giant chocolate freckle waiting to welcome me when I check into my Sea View Suite, where splashes of hot pink enliven a luxe coastal palette of sea greens and sand golds and a generous balcony places me right on the Cairns Esplanade with unbroken views of the Coral Sea.

fountain pool adjacent to the sea
Soak up panoramic sea views.

I soak in the tourism town’s sunshine and instant holiday vibes and, having inadvertently skipped both breakfast and lunch, devour the sweet treat with abandon. The modus operandi of Crystalbrook Collection is responsible luxury, and I feel similarly guilt-free about everything I do here.

chic interior of the Flynn bedroom
Have a luxurious stay at Crystalbrook Flynn. (Image: Mark Lane)

From a signature treatment at the Eléme Day Spa (I’m sold on the ‘risqué’ and lymph-stimulating Bust and Booty massage; when in Cairns, right?), which is followed swiftly by a conscious cocktail (a bio-fermented Recharge perhaps, activated with B vitamins and optionally spiked with local Wolf Lane Davidson Plum gin?), everything here – and in all Crystalbrook properties – is designed to be heavy on the indulgence and easy on the conscience.

And while the note scrawled on my room’s mirror – ‘Hey there wild child’ – appears as if written in lipstick, there’s no lip service here. Since its inception in 2018, Crystalbrook Collection has been doing things differently, with sustainability in mind, in the Australian hospitality space.

Crystalbrook’s eco-friendly accommodation offering

Operating an environment free of single-use plastic is second nature; Crystalbrook has saved almost 1.5 million plastic bottles from ending up in landfills and almost 4 million plastic amenity bottles.

It has gone a step further still in becoming the first hospitality group in Australia to achieve 100 per cent waste-free bathrooms, with all amenities either biodegradable or recyclable including toothbrushes made from sugarcane and corn starch.

room with panoramic sea views
Crystalbrook accommodation features cosy rooms with panoramic sea views. (Image: Mark Lane)

In-room coffee capsules are zero-waste thanks to a partnership with TerraCycle , key cards are made from recycled wood, coathangers from recycled cardboard and the use of technology, such as in-room iPads, has removed an estimated 90 per cent of the paper found in a typical five-star hotel room.

And with its Climate Calories initiative – which sees menu items labelled to indicate everything from locally sourced to ethical meats to minimised waste and culturally considered – in place across all 14 restaurants and bars in the collection, patrons can drink and dine in the knowledge they are mitigating their environmental impact.

meal at the Rocco Rooftop bar
Enjoy a sumptuous meal as you explore Cairns. (Image: Alexandra Gow)

The Crystalbrook Collection difference

First came Crystalbrook Riley, a five-star luxury resort in Cairns with a linger-worthy pool and show-stopping rooftop cocktail bar, Rocco, crowning a new landmark tower – its marine hues designed to reflect the landscape – unlike anything else on the city skyline.

bartender pouring a drink at Rocco
Enjoy your choice of signature cocktail at Rocco. (Image: Alexandra Gow)

Since then, the portfolio has expanded to include properties similarly sympathetic to their location (and each with a distinct personality expressed by its gender-neutral name) in Byron Bay, Brisbane, Newcastle and Sydney.

But its subsequent openings in Cairns – Crystalbrook Bailey in 2019 and Crystalbrook Flynn in 2020 – have helped shape the renaissance of one of Australia’s top tourism towns. With no international tourists pouring into Cairns, the pandemic proved a soft launch for this trio of sibling hotels, which set about quietly but radically transforming the face of tourism in the Tropical North Queensland hub.

wine with snack platter at Rocco Rooftop bar in Cairns
Have some wine at the Rocco rooftop bar. (Image: Alexandra Gow)

In a few short years, Crystalbrook has added not only 912 rooms, but also eight drinking and dining options to the city, which – having quickly become staples on the scene – are as much about appealing to locals as they are visitors.

On night one my travel companions and I dine in warm, convivial surrounds on site at Flynn’s Italian. The next night we attend the opening of an art exhibition at Crystalbrook Bailey , the creative one of the bunch, before heading to its steakhouse CC’s Bar & Grill , where diners tuck into beef farmed at the group’s own station, three hours west in the Atherton Tablelands .

flavourful meal
Savour a fusion of flavours in Cairns.

On our last night it’s a fresh, flavoursome al fresco meal of Asian-fusion cuisine on the esplanade at Crystalbrook Riley’s Paper Crane. Back at Crystalbrook Flynn, the market-style food and drinks hub Boardwalk Social opens right onto Cairns Esplanade and perfectly showcases the porous, centre-of-the-action attitude of the hotel.

The new Reef Magic pontoon

So too the hospitality group’s outward-looking ambition to be part of the city’s fabric. It aligns with the local council’s $28 million redevelopment of the esplanade, which has landed it with a new-look dining precinct, vertical gardens, a revamped lagoon area and more.

palm trees in Cairns
Lounge on the beach underneath tall palm trees.

The city’s many tourism operators have also used the pause to reinvent themselves. We amble down to Cairns Marina one bright morning and skip over the seas to Moore Reef, where the Reef Magic pontoon is newly moored.

Over the next five hours we explore this watery world at leisure. We check out the underwater observatory and scientific lab set up for reef research and projects, take a ride in a glass-bottomed boat to hear Dreamtime Creation stories of the Great Barrier Reef, snorkel the sheltered coral lagoon, where I spot not one but two sea turtles, and follow a marine biologist on a guided snorkel safari.

Owned by Australian-owned Experience Co Limited (EXP) , trips out to the Reef Magic pontoon are steered by local experts passionate about reef conservation including marine biologists and Indigenous guides. Designed over three levels and 100 square metres to stringent standards, it is powered using sustainable energy and carries an Advanced Eco Accreditation.

The Mandingalbay Ancient Indigenous Tours

The next day, we glide across Trinity Inlet and through the mangroves to the heart of traditional Crocodile Country to join a new Indigenous-owned walking tour. Although it has catered to the group market since 2015, Mandingalbay Ancient Indigenous Tours is now offering tours to independent travellers and its Hands On Country tour is an enriching journey through forest that doubles as a 50,000-year-old supermarket, hardware store and pharmacy and continues to provide food and resources for the Mandingalbay Yidinji people.

The best way to end the day

We’re joined on the walk by a well-travelled couple from Victoria who, as the tour ends and we arrive back in Cairns, say they’re off to spend the afternoon by the pool at Crystalbrook Riley . A day well spent. They’re among a growing trend of domestic tourists who are choosing to linger longer in a place so often used as a launching pad for other parts of Queensland’s hot tropics. And the offering is maturing to meet them with increased options for eating, sleeping and playing responsibly and a healthy splash of luxury thrown in.

Later, I sit on my balcony at Crystalbrook Flynn overlooking the esplanade and see it buzzing with life. Families splash in the lagoon or spread out on its grassy flanks. A cargo ship pulls out of the port. Swallows dart and waders pick at the mudflats on the foreshore. Cairns has emerged from its period of enforced hibernation looking brighter than ever. But for all its changes, there is so much here that is timeless.

Imogen Eveson
Imogen Eveson is Australian Traveller’s Print Editor. She was named Editor of the Year at the 2024 Mumbrella Publish Awards and in 2023, was awarded the Cruise Line Industry Association (CLIA) Australia’s Media Award. Before joining Australian Traveller Media as sub-editor in 2017, Imogen wrote for publications including Broadsheet, Russh and SilverKris. She launched her career in London, where she graduated with a BA Hons degree in fashion communication from world-renowned arts and design college Central Saint Martins. She is the author/designer of The Wapping Project on Paper, published by Black Dog Publishing in 2014. Growing up in Glastonbury, home to the largest music and performing arts festival in the world, instilled in Imogen a passion for cultural cross-pollination that finds perfect expression today in shaping Australia’s leading travel titles. Imogen regularly appears as a guest on radio travel segments, including ABC National Nightlife, and is invited to attend global travel expos such as IMM, ILTM, Further East and We Are Africa.
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8 experiences that make Moreton Bay the best getaway

From the moment you arrive in Moreton Bay, stunning natural vistas, fresh and tasty dining, history and more invite you to stay and play.

Untouched national park, mirror-like lagoons and endless stretches of beaches all make Moreton Bay experiences feel like you’ve stumbled across a secret Queenslanders collectively vowed not to tell. Yet it’s easily accessible. Explore further and discover hinterland farms, ancient rainforest, fresh seafood and more: there’s something on offer for every pace, interest and generation.

Just 20 minutes from Brisbane Airport, it’s hard to believe how underrated this Queensland getaway is. Here’s your ultimate guide to rediscover play with unmissable experiences in Moreton Bay.

1. G’Day Adventure Tours, Bribie Island

G’Day Adventure Tours’ Sea to Table Experience
Explore Bribie Island with G’Day Adventure Tours.

G’Day Adventure Tours’ Sea to Table Experience should be your first agenda item in Moreton Bay. Take a 4WD journey through the sandy tracks of Bribie Island’s beaches to the still, glassy waters of the island’s lagoons. Glide over perfect replicas of paperbarks and fluffy blue clouds mirrored in the lagoon waters in your kayak. Listen as native birdsong echoes around you.

Then, it’s on to Fort Bribie. During the Second World War, these concrete bunkers – now slowly being enveloped by the dunes – were the last line of defence for Moreton Bay.

End the day with a sun-dappled beach picnic of locally caught Queensland prawns and famous Moreton Bay bugs. As you head home, watch the dolphins playfully dart in and out of the surf.

2. Morgan’s Seafood at Scarborough

Morgan’s Seafood
It doesn’t get fresher than Morgan’s Seafood. (Image: Ezra Patchett)

Right on the Scarborough Boat Harbour, you’ll find Morgan’s Seafood . Between the luxury yachts, you’ll also spot trawlers and fishermen delivering their day’s catch right to Morgan’s. The family-owned and operated spot is one of the best places to try the region’s eponymous Moreton Bay bug. Or, sample more of the area’s direct-from-the-boat seafood fresh at their oyster and sushi bar. If you’re lucky, your visit might coincide with a day they’ve caught tuna.

Picture fish caught that day, prepared and then served to you as fresh sashimi as the sun sets over the unique silhouette of the Glasshouse Mountains.

3. Woorim Beach, Bribie Island

woorim beach bribie island
Hang 10, or relax, on Woorim Beach.

On Bribie’s eastern coastline, you’ll find Woorim Beach : aka the closest surf beach to Brisbane. Find a place on the sand by the patrolled area or wander further south to find a quiet spot and while the day away between the shaded dunes, the pages of your book and the peaceful sound of rolling waves.

Ask any local where to grab lunch, and they’ll direct you to Bribie Island Surf Club Bistro . Tuck into a fresh, local seafood platter, just metres from the beach.

4. D’Aguilar National Park

D’Aguilar National Park
Admire the landscapes of D’Aguilar National Park.

D’Aguilar National Park is a 40,000-hectare slice of greenery that stretches from urban Brisbane right up to Woodford (home of the Woodford Folk Festival). The vast expanse of park is home to ancient rainforests, eucalypt forests and shaded swimming spots hidden within gorges and under waterfalls. The area is significant for the Jinibara and Turrbal people, with ceremonial bora rings and dreaming trails all found within the park.

Carve out some time in your itinerary to explore the park’s many trails. The Maiala day-use area is the perfect starting point for walks for all levels of ability.

5. Arcade Wine Bar

arcade wine bar moreton bay
Sit down to a menu inspired by Italy.

Opposite the Redcliffe Jetty and down a laneway, you’ll find an unassuming wine bar. Venture inside and quickly fall in love with Arcade Wine Bar , one of the region’s most beloved local haunts.

Owners Danilo and Matt have a combined 50 years of sommelier experience, which they have poured into the menu, styling and wine list. More than just a hole-in-the-wall wine bar, Arcade Wine is an enoteca (a wine repository), whose walls are lined with bottles upon bottles of Italian wine varietals from every corner of Italy.

Settle in with a wine and work your way through the menu inspired by Danilo’s native Italy: traditional meatballs, their quick-to-sell-out terrine, or a selection of Italian cheeses, charcuterie and arancini.

6. Wamuran & Loop Rail Trail

Away from the ocean, tucked in the hinterland, is the Wamuran & Loop Rail Trail . Perfect for cyclists or walkers, the trail was built to showcase the history of the Caboolture to Kilcoy rail corridor (last operating in 1964) and makes for the perfect family day out. The trail runs for 10.5km and connects Wamuran and Caboolture via an accessible path.

Pass through former railroad, bridges and shaded bushland as you cut from A to B. Plus, visit in winter for a detour along the way to one of the many pick-your-own strawberry farms.

7. Farm Visits

Beaches, mountains and history make an enticing combination. But Moreton Bay also brings hinterland, family-friendly farms to the table. Trevena Glen is one of the area’s most loved, with bunnies, ponies, sheep, alpacas (and more) available to visit for the kids. For the adults, book a horse-riding session and be treated to a grazing platter as you watch the sun set over the mountains of D’Aguilar National Park.

At White Ridge Farm , find camels, putt-putt, train and tractor rides and all kinds of animals. The entire farm is paved, making it accessible for all.

8. Miss Sprinkles

Miss Sprinkles Gelato moreton bay
Pick your scoop at Miss Sprinkles Gelato.

An ice cream at the beach is one of life’s most perfect pleasures. While in town, stop by Miss Sprinkles for the locals’ pick of homemade gelato on the Scarborough foreshore.

The gelato here is made the authentic Italian way and scooped up just across from the beach. Or, settle in at their kitschy pink wooden tables for traditional gelato in the sunshine.  Aside from the homemade gelato, you’ll also find tarts, pies and even doggie gelato.

To start planning your Moreton Bay trip, or for more information, head to visitmoretonbay.com.au.