Top Towns for 2022: How three lavish accommodations reinvented Cairns

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With its trio of sustainable hotels and plethora of wining and dining options, Crystalbrook Collection is helping revitalise this perennially popular holiday spot.

Thanks in large part to this revitalisation, Cairns also came in at no.4 on your list of Top 50 Aussie Towns.

Find the complete list of the Top 50 Aussie Towns here.

The first taste of Crystalbrook

Crystalbrook Flynn is the fun one of the bunch: a social butterfly of a five-star hotel. True to form, there’s a giant chocolate freckle waiting to welcome me when I check into my Sea View Suite, where splashes of hot pink enliven a luxe coastal palette of sea greens and sand golds and a generous balcony places me right on the Cairns Esplanade with unbroken views of the Coral Sea.

fountain pool adjacent to the sea
Soak up panoramic sea views.

I soak in the tourism town’s sunshine and instant holiday vibes and, having inadvertently skipped both breakfast and lunch, devour the sweet treat with abandon. The modus operandi of Crystalbrook Collection is responsible luxury, and I feel similarly guilt-free about everything I do here.

chic interior of the Flynn bedroom
Have a luxurious stay at Crystalbrook Flynn. (Image: Mark Lane)

From a signature treatment at the Eléme Day Spa (I’m sold on the ‘risqué’ and lymph-stimulating Bust and Booty massage; when in Cairns, right?), which is followed swiftly by a conscious cocktail (a bio-fermented Recharge perhaps, activated with B vitamins and optionally spiked with local Wolf Lane Davidson Plum gin?), everything here – and in all Crystalbrook properties – is designed to be heavy on the indulgence and easy on the conscience.

And while the note scrawled on my room’s mirror – ‘Hey there wild child’ – appears as if written in lipstick, there’s no lip service here. Since its inception in 2018, Crystalbrook Collection has been doing things differently, with sustainability in mind, in the Australian hospitality space.

Crystalbrook’s eco-friendly accommodation offering

Operating an environment free of single-use plastic is second nature; Crystalbrook has saved almost 1.5 million plastic bottles from ending up in landfills and almost 4 million plastic amenity bottles.

It has gone a step further still in becoming the first hospitality group in Australia to achieve 100 per cent waste-free bathrooms, with all amenities either biodegradable or recyclable including toothbrushes made from sugarcane and corn starch.

room with panoramic sea views
Crystalbrook accommodation features cosy rooms with panoramic sea views. (Image: Mark Lane)

In-room coffee capsules are zero-waste thanks to a partnership with TerraCycle, key cards are made from recycled wood, coathangers from recycled cardboard and the use of technology, such as in-room iPads, has removed an estimated 90 per cent of the paper found in a typical five-star hotel room.

And with its Climate Calories initiative – which sees menu items labelled to indicate everything from locally sourced to ethical meats to minimised waste and culturally considered – in place across all 14 restaurants and bars in the collection, patrons can drink and dine in the knowledge they are mitigating their environmental impact.

meal at the Rocco Rooftop bar
Enjoy a sumptuous meal as you explore Cairns. (Image: Alexandra Gow)

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The Crystalbrook Collection difference

First came Crystalbrook Riley, a five-star luxury resort in Cairns with a linger-worthy pool and show-stopping rooftop cocktail bar, Rocco, crowning a new landmark tower – its marine hues designed to reflect the landscape – unlike anything else on the city skyline.

bartender pouring a drink at Rocco
Enjoy your choice of signature cocktail at Rocco. (Image: Alexandra Gow)

Since then, the portfolio has expanded to include properties similarly sympathetic to their location (and each with a distinct personality expressed by its gender-neutral name) in Byron Bay, Brisbane, Newcastle and Sydney.

But its subsequent openings in Cairns – Crystalbrook Bailey in 2019 and Crystalbrook Flynn in 2020 – have helped shape the renaissance of one of Australia’s top tourism towns. With no international tourists pouring into Cairns, the pandemic proved a soft launch for this trio of sibling hotels, which set about quietly but radically transforming the face of tourism in the Tropical North Queensland hub.

wine with snack platter at Rocco Rooftop bar in Cairns
Have some wine at the Rocco rooftop bar. (Image: Alexandra Gow)

In a few short years, Crystalbrook has added not only 912 rooms, but also eight drinking and dining options to the city, which – having quickly become staples on the scene – are as much about appealing to locals as they are visitors.

On night one my travel companions and I dine in warm, convivial surrounds on site at Flynn’s Italian. The next night we attend the opening of an art exhibition at Crystalbrook Bailey, the creative one of the bunch, before heading to its steakhouse CC’s Bar & Grill, where diners tuck into beef farmed at the group’s own station, three hours west in the Atherton Tablelands.

flavourful meal
Savour a fusion of flavours in Cairns.

On our last night it’s a fresh, flavoursome al fresco meal of Asian-fusion cuisine on the esplanade at Crystalbrook Riley’s Paper Crane. Back at Crystalbrook Flynn, the market-style food and drinks hub Boardwalk Social opens right onto Cairns Esplanade and perfectly showcases the porous, centre-of-the-action attitude of the hotel.

The new Reef Magic pontoon

So too the hospitality group’s outward-looking ambition to be part of the city’s fabric. It aligns with the local council’s $28 million redevelopment of the esplanade, which has landed it with a new-look dining precinct, vertical gardens, a revamped lagoon area and more.

palm trees in Cairns
Lounge on the beach underneath tall palm trees.

The city’s many tourism operators have also used the pause to reinvent themselves. We amble down to Cairns Marina one bright morning and skip over the seas to Moore Reef, where the Reef Magic pontoon is newly moored.

Over the next five hours we explore this watery world at leisure. We check out the underwater observatory and scientific lab set up for reef research and projects, take a ride in a glass-bottomed boat to hear Dreamtime Creation stories of the Great Barrier Reef, snorkel the sheltered coral lagoon, where I spot not one but two sea turtles, and follow a marine biologist on a guided snorkel safari.

Owned by Australian-owned Experience Co Limited (EXP), trips out to the Reef Magic pontoon are steered by local experts passionate about reef conservation including marine biologists and Indigenous guides. Designed over three levels and 100 square metres to stringent standards, it is powered using sustainable energy and carries an Advanced Eco Accreditation.

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The Mandingalbay Ancient Indigenous Tours

The next day, we glide across Trinity Inlet and through the mangroves to the heart of traditional Crocodile Country to join a new Indigenous-owned walking tour. Although it has catered to the group market since 2015, Mandingalbay Ancient Indigenous Tours is now offering tours to independent travellers and its Hands On Country tour is an enriching journey through forest that doubles as a 50,000-year-old supermarket, hardware store and pharmacy and continues to provide food and resources for the Mandingalbay Yidinji people.

The best way to end the day

We’re joined on the walk by a well-travelled couple from Victoria who, as the tour ends and we arrive back in Cairns, say they’re off to spend the afternoon by the pool at Crystalbrook Riley. A day well spent. They’re among a growing trend of domestic tourists who are choosing to linger longer in a place so often used as a launching pad for other parts of Queensland’s hot tropics. And the offering is maturing to meet them with increased options for eating, sleeping and playing responsibly and a healthy splash of luxury thrown in.

Later, I sit on my balcony at Crystalbrook Flynn overlooking the esplanade and see it buzzing with life. Families splash in the lagoon or spread out on its grassy flanks. A cargo ship pulls out of the port. Swallows dart and waders pick at the mudflats on the foreshore. Cairns has emerged from its period of enforced hibernation looking brighter than ever. But for all its changes, there is so much here that is timeless.

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Imogen Eveson
Imogen Eveson is Australian Traveller’s Print Editor. She was named Editor of the Year at the 2024 Mumbrella Publish Awards and in 2023, was awarded the Cruise Line Industry Association (CLIA) Australia’s Media Award. Before joining Australian Traveller Media as sub-editor in 2017, Imogen wrote for publications including Broadsheet, Russh and SilverKris. She launched her career in London, where she graduated with a BA Hons degree in fashion communication from world-renowned arts and design college Central Saint Martins. She is the author/designer of The Wapping Project on Paper, published by Black Dog Publishing in 2014. Growing up in Glastonbury, home to the largest music and performing arts festival in the world, instilled in Imogen a passion for cultural cross-pollination that finds perfect expression today in shaping Australia’s leading travel titles. Imogen regularly appears as a guest on radio travel segments, including ABC National Nightlife, and is invited to attend global travel expos such as IMM, ILTM, Further East and We Are Africa.
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Exploding supernovas & gold fever: discover the past at this outback Qld town

    Kassia Byrnes Kassia Byrnes
    Under wide-open outback skies, discover a fossicking gem that’s managed to slip under the radar.

    While the name Clermont may feel new to even the most intrepid traveller, its gilded history stretches back centuries. You’ll find it just off the highway, humming quietly under the hazy veil of Queensland’s outback sun. It’s here, hemmed in by mountains and perched atop soil heavy with the earth’s treasures, that one of Australia’s most accessible outback adventures awaits.

    Thanks to deposits of gold, copper and gemstones – souvenirs left by exploding supernovas and the heave of tectonic plates – Clermont became a centre point of Queensland’s Gold Rush. And now? Australia’s fossicking capital is yours to discover.

    Getting there

    car driving along Capricorn Way in queensland
    Take a drive through Queensland’s Mackay Isaac region. (Image: Sean Scott/ TEQ)

    You’ll find Clermont in Queensland’s Mackay Isaac region. To get here, it’s an easy three-hour drive over sealed roads from Mackay. Or, if you’re heading from the Sapphire Fields of Emerald, the drive will carve out just over an hour from your day.

    Whether you’re road-tripping through outback Queensland or just tracing your way through all that Australia has to offer, Clermont is remote but easily accessible.

    Best accommodation in Clermont

    Theresa CreekDam in clermont
    Camp by Theresa Creek Dam. (Image: Riptide Creative/ TEQ)

    All accommodation comes with a generous helping of country hospitality here. The choice is yours between modern hotels, parking up the camper or pitching a tent.

    Theresa Creek Dam lies just outside town. Begin each day with crisp country air and bright outback sunrises. Spend the night under the sparkling country stars and your days out on the dam fishing or kayaking. Even if you aren’t camping, be sure to save space in your itinerary for an afternoon on the red dirt shore.

    To stay closer to town, opt for a central hotel to base yourself between exploring and fossicking, like Smart Stayzzz Inn and Clermont Country Motor Inn.

    Things to do in Clermont

    three people on a tour with Golden Prospecting
    Join a tour with Golden Prospecting.

    One does not visit Clermont without trying their hand at fossicking. There are strict rules when it comes to fossicking, so stick to areas dedicated for general permission and make sure you obtain your license beforehand. Try your luck at McMasters, Four Mile, Town Desert, McDonald Flat and Flat Diggings. To increase your odds, sign on for a tour with the expert team at Golden Prospecting. They’ll give you access to exclusive plots and expert advice along the way.

    Once you’ve tried your luck on the gold fields, head to the Clermont Township and Historical Museum. Each exhibit works like an archaeologist’s brush to dust away the layers of Clermont’s history. Like the steam engine that painstakingly relocated the entire town inch by inch to higher ground after it was decimated by flooding in 1916. See the tools that helped build the Blair Athol mine, historic fire engines, shearing sheds and all sorts of relics that make up Clermont’s story.

    The historic Copperfield Chimney offers a change of pace. Legend has it that fossickers found a solid wall of copper here, over three metres high, kick-starting Queensland’s first-ever copper mine.

    Bush Heli Services flying over clermont queensland
    See Clermont from above with Bush Heli Services. (Image: Riptide Creative/ TEQ)

    For hiking, nearby Dysart is the best place to access Peak Range National Park. Here, mountainous horizons stretch across the outback as if plucked from another world. Set off for a scenic drive along the Peak Downs Highway for access to countless geological wonders. Like the slanting rockface of Wolfang Peak. Summit it, and you’ll find yourself looking out across a scene surely conjured up by Banjo Paterson. Dry scrub dancing in the warm breeze, grazing cattle, eucalypts and the gentle creak of windmills. Don’t miss visiting Gemini Peaks, either, for one of the park’s best vistas, and a blanket of wild flowers after rain.

    Then, take to the skies with a scenic helicopter tour with Bush Heli-Services. Shift your perspective and cruise above all the sights from your trip. Spots like Lords Table Mountain and Campbell’s Peak are best viewed from the skies.

    Before you head home, be sure to explore the neighbouring townships. Spend a lazy afternoon in the shade of Nebo Hotel’s wrap-around verandahs. The hotel’s 1900s dance hall has since been replaced with one of the area’s biggest rodeo arenas, so consider timing your trip to line up with a boot scootin’ rodeo. Or, stop by a ghost town. Mount Britton was once a thriving town during the 1880s Gold Rush. It’s been totally abandoned and now lies untouched, a perfect relic of the Gold Rush.

    Best restaurants and cafes in Clermont

    meal at Commercial Hotel
    Stop into the Commercial Hotel Clermont.

    Days spent fossicking, bushwalking and cramming on history call for excellent coffee and hearty country meals. Luckily, Clermont delivers in spades.

    Lotta Lattes Cafe is beloved by locals for a reason. Start your days here for the best caffeine fix in town and an impeccable brunch menu.

    For a real country meal, an icy cold beer and that famed country hospitality, head straight to the town’s iconic hotel: the Commercial Hotel (known endearingly to locals as ‘The Commie’). It’s been a staple in Clermont since 1877. The hotel even survived the flood of 1916 when it was sawn in two and moved to higher ground.

    Naturally, time spent in the outback must include calling into the local bakery. For delicious pies and a tantalising array of sweet treats, make Bluemac Bakehouse your go-to while in town.

    Discover more of The Mackay Isaac region, and start planning your trip at mackayisaac.com.