Catching bulls in Cape York

Michele MaddisonBy Michele Maddison
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You read that right: catching bulls in Cape York…  Michele Maddison takes us along on the ride of her life.

Tranquillity. As you pry your eyes open, lying in your swag by the river, sunbeams filter through the trees and birds join in the early morning choir. Swat – go away fly, you’re destroying my oasis of peace. Suddenly over the embankment comes the roar of the Landy engine, oasis gone. It was time to get up and embark on a day of outback adventure… bull-catching.

Michele and her bull-catching compatriots in action, sleeping out in swags alongside their beloved (and impressively bull-barred) Wildfire.

How do you catch a bull?

Now, for a greenhorn like myself, I couldn’t even begin to imagine what this entailed. I thought riding around in a Landy (affectionately named Wildfire) looking like something off a Mad Max film set couldn’t be too hard. I mean, there’s no doors, a missing windshield, a huge V-shaped object protruding out front (that’s one heck of a bull bar) and no padding on the metal seats – but lucky I have extra city-slicker padding of my own.

One of the shrinking waterholes spotted on Michelle’s trip during the dry season.

We’re on Southwell Station, 200km from Pormpuraaw on Cape York, accessible by 4WD and light aircraft only. We’re cruising along the tracks of the 200km2 station, not another soul in sight. It’s the dry season, shrinking watering holes pass by, giant termite mounts, dry grasslands, crisp Australian bushlands, and did I mention the dust? Apart from admiring the raw beauty of the bush we had to keep an eye out for the elusive bull. Who, I might add, hasn’t seen humans before.

Bull-spotting and breakaways

A bull is spotted, and it would have to be in the thickest part of the bush? Greenhorn one, that would be me, gets thrown in the front as Grandpa vacates by standing behind a tree. I’m wondering if maybe I should be joining him. Greenhorn two, my friend Adrian, stays braced in the back between the two steel bench seats. We get told to hold on, keep your eyes on the bull, and tell the driver when a breakaway appears. “Breakaway? What’s a breakaway?"

 

“That would be a huge hole in the ground, caused through erosion. They keep popping up in different spots depending on each wet season."

 

Basically, the whole Wildfire, with us in it, could be swallowed up and we get to meet the Hobbit in Middle Earth. Okay, slight exaggeration, but you get my meaning. This is slightly hindered by the bush sometimes covering these so called breakaways. The fact that Wildfire is ploughing through, at speed, to get to the bull the quickest way possible has my knuckles white on the bar in front of me. If I had hackles, they’d be standing on end. My heart is pumping but there’s a huge smile on my face. I must be mad.

Catching the bull

Wildfire and bull start to count in on the bush tango: 1, 2, 3, 4… we go straight, to the left, straight, to the right, left, right, straight, left again at a cruising altitude from ground zero to about 60km/h, knuckles getting whiter.

 

Our adrenalin levels rise as we get closer, then someone yells; “Watch out for that tree!" Oh, right, so that’s the reason the big bull bar is at the front, so we can go through those. “Mmm, I believe that was a eucalyptus," I think as I spit leaves from my mouth. I was getting a little hungry anyways.

 

After the excitement of eating eucalyptus, we’ve momentarily lost the bull, but he’s soon spotted again and I actually think he’s grinning. He got away with that one. However, we don’t give up that easy. It was time for the waltz to get him. This love affair was over, and we meant business.

 

Round, around and around again we go. Suddenly both parties halt. Wildfire and bull stare off. Greenhorns get reminded that if the bull goes for you, don’t jump on the lap of the driver, dive for the back. Now I’m eyeballing those huge horns and I realise why my husband decided to stay camp-side. Mental note for next time.

 

The dance resumes, and we catch our partner by surprise and Wildfire has the bull. Everything happens so fast, the next thing we know the brave ones are back in the car, bull tied to the tree awaiting collection by the tractor and trailer that follows later.

Time for another round

The catch for the day is loaded onto the trailer.

We pick up Grandpa, who’s made us a lovely billy tea while waiting for us to finish the dance. I think my heart is still running over the legal limit but feel so alive, I can’t wait to do it again. We finish our tea then head off to spot more bulls. We proceed to find another 12, not a bad catch for the day.

 

Hours later we pull up outside the homestead and recap our remarkable day. No feeling in my extra city-slicker padding? Check. More Australian bush in my hair, down my polo shirt than I care to mention? Check. New hair colour – dust beige, when pat on head like talc powder escaping? Check. A huge smile you can’t wipe off my face? Double check.

Southwell Station
Michelle based herself at Southwell Station.

I may have started out the greenhorn but left with a brand new respect for the people who live on the stations in the Cape York. Would I do it again? In a heartbeat!

Michele Maddison
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What it’s really like to stay on the world’s largest sand island

    Kassia ByrnesBy Kassia Byrnes
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    Exploring the world’s largest sand island starts with the perfect K’gari homebase.

    The morning light is still soft, but it’s already a perfect sunny day. We left our K’gari homebase at Kingfisher Bay Resort  with our guide, Peter Meyer, at 9 am to make the most of our time to explore all that the world’s largest sand island holds. The size of K’gari is hard to grasp until you arrive here. This is no sandbar. Stretching 120 kilometres, unique lakes, mangrove systems, rainforest, 75 Miles of beach, historic shipwrecks, small townships and even one of Queensland’s best bakeries are all hidden within its bounds.

    But first, one of the island’s most iconic sights: the pure silica sand and crystal clear waters of Lake McKenzie.

    Laying eyes on it for the first time, I’m finally able to confirm that the photos don’t lie. The sand is pure white, without the merest hint of yellow. The water fades from a light halo of aqua around the edges to a deeper, royal blue, the deeper it gets (not that it’s particularly deep, six metres at most). The surface remains surprisingly undisturbed, like a mirror.

    Arriving with our guide before 10 am means that no one else is around when we get here. Which means we have the pleasure of breaking the smooth surface with our own ripples as we enter. As a self-confessed wimp with chilly water temperatures, my fears are quickly assuaged. Even in the morning, the water stays around 23 degrees – perfect for lazing about all day. But we have more sights to see.

    Exploring K’gari

    ariel of in lake mckenzie on k'gari fraser island
    Relax in the warm waters of Lake McKenzie. (Image: Ayeisha Sheldon)

    This was the Personalised 4WD tour offered by Kingfisher Bay Resort, and my absolute top pick of experiences. Over the course of the day, we had the freedom to create our own bespoke itinerary (plus a provided picnic lunch along the way), with an expert guide who had plenty of stories and local expertise to give context to what we were looking at. From the history of the SS Maheno shipwreck, which survived the First World War only to be washed ashore by a cyclone in 1935, to a detailed description of how an island made of sand could sustain such diverse flora.

    If it’s your first time to K’gari, the Beauty Spots Tour is another great option. Departing daily from Kingfisher Bay Resort (you’ll start to notice a trend, as many of the tours do start and end here), an air-conditioned, 4WD bus takes guests to the island’s most iconic locations, including the best places to swim, like Lake McKenzie and Eli Creek. The latter offers a gentle current, perfect for riding with a blow-up tyre out towards the ocean.

    The next day, for a look at a completely different side of K’gari, I joined one of Kingfisher Bay Resort’s Immersive Ranger-guided tours to kayak through the mangroves of Dundonga Creek. This long, snake-like stretch of creek winds its way inland from the ocean outlet we entered by, at times too narrow for three kayaks to be side-by-side. Small insects buzz from leaf to leaf, while birds call overhead. Occasional bubbles indicate we’ve passed some fish that call this place home.

    kayak tour through the mangroves at k'gari island
    Learn about the island’s mangroves from your Ranger. (Image: Reuben Nutt/ TEQ)

    If kayaking isn’t for you – or if, like me, you simply want more – other ranger-led experiences include nature walks and a dedicated Junior Eco Ranger Program for kids ages five to 12 (these run every weekend, and daily over the peak December holidays). Just ask for a timetable of upcoming tours when you check in.

    While during whale season, Hervey Bay Whale Watch & Charters operates tours from the hotel’s jetty to get up close to the famous Humpback Highway of Hervey Bay, from 7 November to 31 May, attention turns to the Aqua Oasis Cruise . Departing from the resort every Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday for resort guests, adventure along the island’s remote western coast, pointing out wildlife like dolphins, turtles, flying fish and eagles along the way.

    The cruise drops anchor so guests can jump into the water using the boat’s equipment – from SUP boards to inflatable slides and jumping platforms. Then refuel with a provided lunch, of course.

    Unwind at sunset

    two people drinking cocktails at sunset bar, kingfisher bay resort
    Unwind at the Sunset Bar. (Image: Sean Scott)

    As much as days on K’gari can be filled with adventure, to me, the afternoons and evenings there are for unwinding. Sunsets on K’gari are absolutely unbelievable, with Kingfisher Bay on the west side being the best spot to catch the colours.

    The Sunset Bar , located at the start of the resort’s jetty and overlooking the beach, is the ultimate location for sundowners. Let chill beats wash over you as you sip on cool wines, beers and cocktails in a relaxed, friendly vibe. Personally, a cheese board was also absolutely called for. As the sun sinks, the sand, sea and horizon turn a vibrant shade of orange, with the jetty casting a dramatic shadow across the water.

    When the show is over, head back to the hotel for dinner at the Asian-fusion Dune restaurant, or the pub-style Sand + Wood. But if your appetite is still whetted for more lights and colours, the evening isn’t over yet.

    Settle into the Illumina stage for Return to Sky, an immersive light and sound show leading viewers on a captivating journey through K’gari’s stories and landscapes.

    Indulge and disconnect

    woman setting up massage room at kingfisher bay resort Island Day Spa
    Find bliss at Island Day Spa. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Of course, there is a type of traveller who knows that balance is important, day or night. While Kingfisher Bay Resort offers more than one pool for guests to spend all day lounging by (they’ll even serve you food and drinks while you do it), you’ll find me at the Island Day Spa.

    The masseuses could match the magic hands of any big city spa, and I felt the warm welcome as I walked into the light, breezy reception. Choose from a range of botanical facials, beauty treatments and soothing massages using traditional techniques (obviously, I couldn’t go past a relaxing massage). All products used contain organic, native botanical ingredients with nutrient-rich plant extracts to soothe skin and mind. To really indulge, try out one of the packages, couples treatment or even a pre-wedding day offering.

    Getting there

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    The world of K’gari awaits. (Image: Jessica Miocevich)

    Getting to K’gari is shockingly easy. Find daily flights into Hervey Bay from Brisbane, Melbourne and Sydney. Kingfisher Bay Resort offers a shuttle bus between the airport, their headquarters in Hervey Bay and the ferry to take you to K’gari.