The weather? Tropical. The people? Friendly. The overall vibe is what you’d expect a quintessentially Australian holiday to feel like. We know Townsville isn’t exactly a secret, but it certainly feels like one.
It’s 13 degrees back home in Sydney. Meanwhile, I’m in shorts and a T-shirt. My bare skin enjoying the sunshine. A whisper of tropical breeze stirs the palm trees above, while yachts shimmy through waters so blue they’re almost indistinguishable from the sky. It’s oh so quiet. Where is everyone?
A few weeks earlier, I’d been in Cairns for a family holiday. It was brilliant – equal parts poolside lounging and obligatory reef and rainforest explorations. It was also busy. It’s the middle of the Australian winter, after all, and southerners like us flock to Queensland when it’s cold and dreary back home.
But here I am in Townsville, still in winter, with not a soul obstructing my view of Magnetic Island as I enjoy my morning coffee. Later, I nab a front-row sun lounge at the rooftop infinity pool overlooking the Coral Sea – no hustling required. We don’t make dinner reservations, yet get a lovely table and incredible service. The sun is just as warm, the people just as friendly, the food a delight and the experiences top-notch. Townsville doesn’t seem to be on our collective radar – but perhaps it should be.
Under the radar
Embark on a scenic coastal drive. (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland)
The Ville Resort Casino features an infinity pool and a swim-up bar for cocktails with views of Magnetic Island. (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland)
Soak up serenity with uninterrupted views of the Coral Sea. (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland)
Still defined by its catchy 1980s slogan, ‘Beautiful one day, perfect the next’, the Sunshine State has long been our go-to winter destination. We’ve been lucky to spend time in many of its coastal hotspots: the surfy lifestyle of Burleigh Heads, the chic appeal of Noosa, the tropical vibes on Hamilton Island, and Cairns’ vibrant mix of reef and rainforest. These destinations are foolproof for a great coastal holiday – Queensland’s illuminati, if you will. But they can steal the limelight from other deserving towns.
Townsville was never on my radar until, in 2018, a photo of The Ville Resort Casino’s pool popped up on my feed, complete with a swim-up bar, swaying palms and purple bougainvillea, and compelled me to book a weekend stay. The 1986-built casino had undergone a $43 million rebrand, transforming it into a modern entertainment precinct designed by Woods Bagot. Its opening, alongside Reef HQ in 1987 and the world’s first floating hotel, the Four Seasons Barrier Reef Hotel, in 1988, marked a booming decade for the city. But it was The Ville’s 2018 transformation that proved a game-changer, raising the bar for accommodation and dining.
So when the opportunity to return to Townsville this year came up, I jumped at the chance. The town’s first five-star hotel, The Ardo, had opened in 2023, and I was excited to experience it with my sister – a very different trip from my previous visit with my toddler son. She, on the other hand, had zero expectations. Like many, she’d never thought of Townsville as a holiday option.
Why Townsville deserves more attention
Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.
AI Prompt
Stroll along the 2.5-kilometre foreshore of The Strand. (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland)
Go diving at the shipwreck of SS Yongala. (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland/Scuba Diver Life)
Pedal along the palm tree-lined beachfront promenade. (Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland)
Having experienced Townsville and Cairns within weeks of each other, I found that Townsville has a slower pace. It’s a big city with a small-town feel but is still packed with fun things to do. Its 2.2-kilometre waterfront precinct, The Strand, is an incredible feature of the city: it boasts a flat walking path, cafes, playgrounds, an epic water play area with slides for little kids, basketball courts, a skatepark, and a stinger-free ocean-filled rockpool. It’s easy to wander along The Strand but we hired Ario scooters (which you find parked around the city) and had so much fun getting around.
If you can tear yourself away from your hotel pool or The Strand, Castle Hill has several walking trails for all abilities. To access the summit, with views over the city and Coral Sea, the Goat Track is less than two kilometres return but it’s steep and comprises uneven steps. Castle Hill Road is an easier, paved road but it’s longer at 5.2 kilometres return. Time your walk to see the sun set over the Coral Sea from this vantage point (there’s truly something special about the sunsets here in Townsville – they are unforgettable).
The Great Barrier Reef can be reached within a 20–90-minute boat ride from Townsville. Snorkel among the Coral Sea’s marine wonders at Magnetic Island, go diving at the shipwreck of SS Yongala, take a scenic flight over the GBR, or see the world-first Museum of Underwater Art. Aside from the snorkelling, Magnetic Island has 23 beaches, beautiful hiking and a large koala population – it’s worthy of a day trip or an overnight stay.
On land, the former Reef HQ was demolished in and is being completely rebuilt as the Great Barrier Reef Aquarium. When it opens in 2029, it will be the world’s largest living coral aquarium.
Embrace slow living in this underrated QLD gem. (Credit: Megan Arkinstall)
Spend an afternoon by the pool. (Credit: Megan Arkinstall)
The Pavilion sits on a premier waterfront location. (Credit: Megan Arkinstall)
Townsville has a plethora of dining options, with delicious food and superb service. Stand-outs for us included Shorehouse, which has an Asian fusion menu and an atmospheric tropical setting across from The Strand; cool neighbouring cafes The Spirited Goat and Happy Place for coffee and all-day breakfast; the newly opened Flinders Street Wharves for a happening pub vibe with casual food; and Miss Songs, an Asian restaurant within The Ville where the food and service was top-notch and the French Martini too easy to swig.
As for accommodation, it’s a battle between The Ville or Ardo Hotel – it just depends what kind of holiday you’re after. The Ville is stylish but playful, with a fabulous pool area, entertainment and multiple dining options (it’s perfect for families or travelling who love a happening vibe). Next door, The Ardo is its ultra-sophisticated counterpart – all sleek lines, neutral tones and a rooftop pool to die for (it’s great for couples, an adults’ escape or for anyone seeking solitude and luxury).
The verdict
Townsville is the kind of place you dream of escaping to during the Aussie winter, but a weekend in summer didn’t disappoint either. A big city with a slower pace, Townsville has all the hallmarks of a great coastal escape: a tropical climate, fantastic dining options, fun activities and a laidback vibe. You can head out to the Great Barrier Reef, go koala spotting on Magnetic Island, wander along the Strand, or spend an afternoon by the pool with a good book and a cocktail or two. As far as underrated places in Australia go, Townsville must be on the podium.
Want to see more stories from Australian Traveller in your Google search results?
Tick the box next to "Australian Traveller". That's it.
Megan Arkinstall is a freelance travel writer who you’ll often find at the beach, bushwalking or boating with her young family. She loves reliving travel memories through writing, whether that be sipping limoncello in a sun-drenched courtyard of Monterosso or swimming with green turtles in the aquamarine waters of Tropical North Queensland.
From poolside bites and tasting flights to seafood plates and dry-aged steaks, a foodie adventure on Hamilton Island is worth every bite.
Hamilton Island’s sun-lacquered shores have long magnetised travellers craving an escape from reality. But what’s less expected – and more interesting – is just how assuredly this Whitsundays idyll delivers on the culinary front. Dialling up the flavour as much as the barefoot allure, the Hamilton Island food scene offers world-class dining and drinking options, spanning slick fine-dining moments to just-caught seafood served within sight of the sea. Let’s dig in.
Catseye Pool Club
Catseye Pool Club offers stunning beach views. (Image: Kara Rosenlund)
Framing the electric blues of Catseye Beach from The Sundays hotel, Catseye Pool Club is Hamilton Island’s latest culinary prodigy. Shown to our table, we thread through rattan chairs, Zellige tiles and tumbling greenery that opens up to Coral Sea shimmer.
The poolside restaurant is the brainchild of Sydney-based chef duo Josh and Julie Niland, who have brought their relaxed yet elevated dining ethos north. The menu – designed to bring people together – is made for sharing, each hero ingredient orbited by a palette of sides to mix, match and layer as you please.
My thyme cocktail – woody with scotch, lifted by lime leaf – pairs perfectly with the charcoal grilled prawns entree, which is served with tumeric and lemongrass marinade, macadamia satay sauce and a thai-leaning sour green mango salad. Each forkful lands differently, but all are a delight. Then comes the coral trout. True to Josh Niland’s ‘scale-to-tail’ philosophy, the fish is presented whole in a theatrical crescent, a tiny fork stuck into its cheek in a nod to Niland’s declared prize cut. Ribbons of zucchini resembling gauzy curtains bring brightness and snap, while kasundi lends depth and warmth. It’s tongue-tantalising, special occasion dining with humanity.
Sails Restaurant
Settle into casual poolside dining. (Credit: Nikki To)
A more casual poolside dining scene awaits at nearby Sails Restaurant, where Eastern Mediterranean flavours are dished up with an island twist. Chermoula chicken skewers and barramundi souvlaki lie on the more filling side of the menu, while the sumac squid and stone-bread flatbread with za’atar – arriving alongside pomegranate molasses, beetroot hummus and crushed macadamias – are perfect light bites after a dip in the pool. And don’t miss the garlic lemon scallops.
The setting is equally part of the draw. Sunlight floods the high-ceilinged dining room, while outdoor tables look out across the glittering expanse of Catseye Beach. Holidaymakers in oversized sunglasses sip spritzes beneath umbrellas, the gentle clink of plates mixing with splashes from the adjacent pool. It’s the kind of place you’ll want to linger long after lunch.
Bommie
Head to the Hamilton Island Yacht Club for a taste of Bommie. (Credit: Nikki To)
Tucked into a sleek curved wing of the Hamilton Island Yacht Club, Bommie delivers experiential fine dining with a sense of occasion. Led by award-winning Executive Chef Ryan Locke, the seasonal menu champions local and native Australian ingredients whipped up into a modern display of creative precision.
Inside the dim-lit dining room, guests can choose between the Tasting Menu or Chef’s Signature Degustation. Sourdough with pine oil sets the tone for the six-course tasting menu, beautifully presented in a bed of pine needles alongside smoked paperbark butter. I love how the squid ink choux pastry is served with flavour-popping native finger lime, which our waiter encourages us to eat caviar-style. Standout moments continue with the wattle-seed-crusted venison elevated by red fruit and pickled beetroot swirls; the meat is perfectly pink in the middle and an homage to the island’s history as a deer farm.
Pebble Beach
qualia Resort guests can dine at Pebble Beach. (Credit: Lean Timms)
Exclusive to qualia Resort guests for lunch and dinner, Pebble Beach is Hamilton Island’s most serene expression of seasonal island dining. Ocean-facing chairs dot a timber deck that spills straight onto the resort’s private beach, while crystalline turquoise waters stretch to meet distant islands – a scene far prettier than any postcard could capture.
The recently refreshed menu doubles down on seasonality and bright, layered flavours. While the more substantial T-bone steak with hazelnut honey carrots tempts, we go lighter: Coffin Bay oysters with Champagne foam and keffir lime dust kick us off splendidly, followed by Byron Bay burrata served with balsamic and caramelised figs. The fennel and orange salad topped with succulent grilled chicken is utterly delectable, but it’s the zingy, oh-so-fresh soft shell fish tacos that I can’t stop thinking about. It all goes down a treat with a glass of delicate Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve Champagne.
Beach Club Restaurant
Book in advance for Beach Club Restaurant. (Credit: Nikki To)
A lunch or dinner table at Beach Club Restaurant is best booked in advance – and it’s easy to see why. Looking out over the hotel’s palm-fringed infinity pool, the restaurant spotlights elegant contemporary Australian cuisine with a stellar (also Aussie-leaning) wine list to match.
I am completely enamoured by the grilled Queensland prawns, which are brought to life with a smoked compound, local fried curry leaves and lime. Digging into the butter-soft lamb rump served atop pea ragout and parsley Paris mash feels like a warm, nostalgic hug. And dessert – vanilla bean ice cream drizzled with hot salted honey and apple gel – ends the night on a high note.
Expect warm and discreet service; our waiter Marco tells us that the tiny decorative starfish on our table are there to help the staff remember whether we prefer sparkling or still water, so they don’t need to bother us by asking multiple times.
Talk & Taste with Courtenay Morgan-Fletcher
Join this immersive wine experience. (Credit Eleanor Edström)
There’s more to Hamilton Island’s foodie scene than restaurant reservations alone. For wine-curious travellers seeking something a little more immersive, Beach Club has recently introduced Talk & Taste – a tutored tasting hosted by Bommie Assistant Manager and wine enthusiast Courtenay Morgan-Fletcher. Held twice weekly for a maximum of eight guests, the experience explores Australian wine culture through four thoughtfully selected drops paired with native-inspired bites.
We opt for the white wine and seafood option. Alongside pours from Eden Valley and Launceston, a nibbling platter arrives featuring sashimi, salmon roe, Mooloolaba prawn ceviche and palate-cleansing ginger. The seafood is pristine and pared back, allowing the wines to take centre stage.
The real highlight, however, is discovering just how nuanced winemaking can be. Courtenay speaks of viticulture as both art and science: harvest grapes a week too late and ripeness tips into ruin; plant the same varietal on different elevations and the sun, slope and water flow will shape entirely different expressions. Pinot noir, she explains, with its delicate skin and high water content, yields lighter fruit-forward wines, while thicker-skinned shiraz delivers depth and structure. I leave feeling fascinated and inspired by Courtenay’s evident passion.
coca chu
Get a taste of Southeast Asian flavours. (Credit: Nikki To)
Sweet and hot. Sour and salty. Dining at ever-popular coca chu is a sensation-swirling experience that’s not to be missed if you’re a sucker for punchy Southeast Asian flavours. Located at the Main Pool end of Catseye Beach, this lively hangout is all swaying lanterns, driftwood, high beamed ceilings and giant open windows that let in the balmy ocean breeze.
Drawing from hawker traditions, the grilled betel leaf is a neat, vibrant mouthful of chilli fried cashews and spiced beef. The tofu surprises – soft beneath a tumble of dill, mint and coriander, and glossed in moreish peanut sauce. The massaman curry is pure comfort: creamy, fragrant, fall-apart meat. It’s generous and expressive cooking that I, for one, cannot get enough of.
Marina Cafe
Take in harbour views and comfort food.
Sometimes, all you crave on holidays is a bacon and egg roll done properly and a creamy fruit smoothie. Boasting harbour views, an easygoing atmosphere and clean modern interiors, Marina Cafe is a popular local haunt for a reason. The casual menu lures families and couples alike with its all-day brekky, seasonal salads and sandwiches – from a roasted pumpkin bowl to prosciutto and rocket on herby focaccia.
The acai bowl, topped with toasted nuts and berries, is a refreshing start to my day. Whether you sit in or takeaway, it’s a good-vibes-guaranteed place to refuel before or after your Whitsundays adventures.
