This small coastal town is South Australia’s best-kept secret

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An unlikely tourist mecca on South Australia’s rugged Eyre Peninsula offers a unique immersion in an unrivalled aquatic environment.

What are the necessary ingredients for the perfect Aussie summer holiday? Nabbing a spot near a swimmable beach ranks pretty highly, as does ensuring the eskies are well-stocked with chilled seafood and even colder drinks. Maybe you can even throw in a few roos hopping around or a sunset over the water.

the Baird Bay Experience boat anchors, Eyre Peninsula, SA
The Baird Bay Experience boat anchors while guests explore the pristine underwater environment. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The sleepy town of Baird Bay, which lies three hours north of Port Lincoln on South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula, ticks all of these boxes. But it also boasts one more factor that lifts it above any competitors.

Though this small collection of holiday homes has a permanent population of just five, there are plenty more locals on the rocky islet where the sheltered bay meets the roaring Southern Ocean. And the 140 Australian sea lions are every bit as friendly as their human counterparts.

sea lions swimming in Baird Bay, Eyre Peninsula, SA
Swimming with sea lions is one of the ultimate bucket-list experiences to enjoy off the coast of South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

When I reach Jones Island after a 20-minute boat ride, two females and a large bull are swimming in the shallows. A few pups splash around closer to shore, while dozens of mature sea lions laze between the low scrub and craggy limestone protrusions.

Hopping into the water, our group slowly moves towards these curious beasts, which look comically clumsy when dragging themselves over the rocks, but are superbly graceful once they hit the water.

Before long, an immature bull swims right through the middle of the group before sitting on the bottom and regarding us thoughtfully. Though we’ve been told to stay at least a metre away, he’s under no such restrictions and comes face to face with several swimmers, his whiskers almost touching their faces.

sea lions up close
Engage with the natural world up close. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The other sea lions soon grow jealous of the attention he’s getting and several playful females join the fun. The sea lions corkscrew and pirouette around us effortlessly before leaping out of the water to show off their creamy bellies. I’m so caught up in the spectacle that I’m shocked when our guide, marine biologist Emma Wilkins, says we’ve been in the water for an hour.

But when we hop back onboard, I barely have time to finish a cup of hot chocolate before we’re back in the water, this time to watch 20 dolphins passing so closely I can make out the scratches and scars along their otherwise smooth grey backs.

dolphins swimming in Baird Bay, Eyre Peninsula
Swimming with dolphins is part of the Baird Bay Experience. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

“With most wildlife experiences, you’re wearing camo or tucked away in a hide," says Kat Bevan, one half of the husband-and-wife team that manages Baird Bay Experience. “But here, you’re in the animals’ habitat and they come right up to you. There’s nothing like it in the world!"

Baird Bay Experience manager Kat Bevan
Baird Bay Experience manager Kat Bevan is passionate about conservation. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

We’re tucking into a post-swim lunch of herb-crusted King George whiting with beetroot and citrus salad as I learn about some of the other regional highlights. Baird Bay Experience was relaunched late last year by luxury travel specialist The Tailor, and in addition to the sea lion and dolphin swims, it has two freshly renovated onsite villas that allow it to double as Australia’s newest all-inclusive lodge.

the outdoor lounge at one of the seaside villas, Baird Bay Experience
Guests of Seaside Villas are invited to unwind in the outdoor lounge. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

The rammed-earth buildings have seven bedrooms between them and are linked by a sunken barbecue area and inviting saltwater pool that looks over the bay. Any groups that book the villas have exclusive use of the property, and there are enough activities in the surrounding region to keep guests busy for weeks. They can try private surfing lessons, set up a cricket pitch on a sandbar in the middle of the bay or visit a local oyster farmer and bring back a few dozen fresh oysters to snack on.

Manager Brendon Bevan of Baird Bay Experience
Manager Brendon Bevan is committed to caring for the environment. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Kat can organise e-biking trips to Point Labatt to see herds of sea lions and New Zealand fur seals lazing on slabs of red granite. Or lead nature walks through the surrounding bush where “you go over a couple of sand dunes and then suddenly it’s all red sand and spinifex and you could be in inland Australia".

fishing and kayaking on Baird Bay
The bay is ideal for fishing and kayaking. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

I decide on a spot of fishing out the front of the villas with Kat’s husband Brendon, who takes me out on a pedal-powered kayak. I’m convinced Brendon has somehow set things to easy mode as I reel in one salmon trout after another along with a few trevallies.

pelicans on the Eyre Peninsula
Pelicans congregate on the Eyre Peninsula. (Image: Getty/Wildkirin Photography)

Guests can bring their catch back to be scaled and filleted, which, according to Kat, “provides a bit of theatre because all the pelicans come in and you can throw bits of fish to them". More importantly, inhouse chef Calvin Von Niebel can incorporate them into the next day’s menu.

Executive chef Calvin Von Neibel at sea
Executive chef Calvin Von Neibel celebrates the bounty of the sea. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Even when guests return empty-handed, the former executive chef for the Ottolenghi group has enough local contacts to turn every meal into a mini geography lesson.

Streaky Bay oysters, Baird Bay Experience
Snack on freshly caught oysters. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Freshly shucked Smoky Bay oysters arrive with mignonette and green nam jim, bluefin tuna from Sceale Bay is marinated in lime and coconut, Cook Islands style, and Port Kenny squid turns up in a salad with potatoes, zucchini flowers and gazpacho.

Add in Venus Bay prawns, blue swimmer crabs from Streaky Bay and whiting pulled out of the waters directly in front of the lodge and you have an embarrassment of riches, even in a region famed for its maritime bounty.

a white-sand beach on Streaky Bay
Streaky Bay is 50 kilometres to the north of Baird Bay. (Image: Getty/Mackenzie Sweetnam)

Dinners are accompanied by sublime views over the bay, which is turned into a shimmering golden platter by the setting sun. As the pelicans skim over the surface on their way home and mobs of western greys come out to graze, I’m hard-pressed to think of a better location for a summer getaway.

a sea lion swimming at sea with a boat behind it
Dive into the experience. (Image: David Edgar)

“Streaky Bay is the closest town, and that’s a quintessential laid-back Aussie fishing village where all the locals are friendly – almost like Summer Bay in Home & Away," Kat tells me.

“But even that feels a long way away. We’re in a very remote part of Australia that is off the beaten track and not really heard of. But it has awesome beaches, produce and wildlife… What more could you want?"

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Baird Bay is about three hours north of Port Lincoln, with a pickup service available for overnight guests. Chartered flights can also be organised to Streaky Bay.

Playing there

Baird Bay Experience’s sea lion and dolphin swims run from 1 September to 30 June and cost $325, including wetsuit hire and a two-course lunch.

Staying there

the Eko Seaside Villa, Baird Bay
Eko Seaside Villa epitomises quiet luxury. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

All-inclusive stays in one of the two villas at Baird Bay Seaside Villas are $2000 per person per night, for a minimum of two guests. That rate includes safari-style touring, chef-prepared meals, beverages and transfers from Streaky Bay.

Alexis Buxton-Collins
Alexis Buxton-Collins spent his twenties working as a music journalist and beer taster before somehow landing an even dreamier job as a freelance travel writer. Now he travels the world from his base in Adelaide and contributes to publications including Qantas, Escape, The Guardian and Lonely Planet. Alexis has never seen a hill he didn't want to climb and specialises in outdoor adventures (he won the 2022 ASTW award for best nature/wildlife story for a feature on Kangaroo Island). When he's not scouring South Australia for the newest wineries and hikes, he's looking for excuses to get back to spots like Karijini and Ningaloo.
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Your guide to a summer staycation in Sydney

Discover the magic of a Sydney staycation in summer at The Fullerton Hotel Sydney.

Sydney City is magical in summer. Warm summer evenings beg to be spent sipping cool cocktails at one of many al fresco and rooftop bars. Ferries and buses are ready to transport travellers to the best nearby beaches for salty days on the sand. National parks and rainforests are waiting to be explored. And the city’s events calendar is packed, from live music to cultural attractions. All elements that call for a Sydney staycation.

Discover where to eat, stay and play for the perfect local getaway.

Where to stay

The Fullerton Hotel Sydney

the Fullerton Hotel Sydney
Sleep inside a 151-year-old icon.

Amid the bustle of the perfect Sydney staycation, one needs a place to escape to and recharge. Enter, The Fullerton Hotel Sydney . The hotel is an icon in its own right – nestled inside the 151-year-old building that was originally Sydney’s General Post Office, its heritage-listed sandstone walls and Victorian renaissance grandeur have been carefully preserved – providing a rare chance to sleep within Sydney’s history.

Despite its fascinating history, the hotel isn’t short on modern, luxurious comforts. Rooms and suites are available in both the modern high-rise with gorgeous views over the clock tower and lively city below, or inside the historical post office building itself.

the Fullerton Hotel Sydney Heritage Long Suite bathroom
Heritage rooms maintain their old-world style.

Either way, guests can enjoy sophisticated touches, including a deluxe bed and pillow menu, Harman Kardon Bluetooth speakers, a digital concierge, a Vittoria coffee machine and amenities from the Balmain bathroom collection.

The team at this five-star hotel provides excellence and a quality experience for all their guests, while amenities like a gym help with a well-rounded stay. For a peaceful moment with sweeping city views, enter The Fullerton Club Lounge on level 28. This private haven for dining and relaxation is available to any guests staying on the hotel’s club floors and suites.

Add to this a central location in the CBD’s Martin Place, with easy access to Sydney’s top attractions, and convenience meets style.

Where to drink & dine

1. The Bar

the Fullerton Hotel afternoon tea at the bar
Indulge in the Fullerton Signature Afternoon Tea.

Inside The Fullerton Hotel Sydney’s lobby, The Bar does more than sling a few delicious cocktails (although it certainly does that well). Its brown leather chairs and glass ceiling create the perfect, almost al fresco, setting for the Fullerton Signature Afternoon Tea .

Served daily from 12 to 4 pm, the afternoon tea is a nod to the cherished social occasion it once was during the Victorian Renaissance era. People like to dress up for this afternoon tea, and if you’re lucky, a pianist often sits down at the on-site grand piano, just adding to the elegance.

The afternoon tea is served high tea style, offering reimagined British flavours of the Victorian Renaissance era with a unique blend of  Australia’s culinary heritage. A sweet layer offers delights like a Malted Milk Envelope (a milk mousse layered between two biscuits), Bakewell Pudding (a super tasty egg-based pudding), and Apple Charlotte.

On the savoury layer, expect finger sandwiches with fillings like cucumber, egg and smoked salmon. While classic pinwheels and stuffed eggs almost make the menu. And, of course, all finished off with traditional scones served with cream and mixed berry jam.

Can’t fit in a whole afternoon tea? Be sure to at least order a slice of the 32-layered chocolate cake, a decadent mix of dark chocolate crémeux, fresh whipped cream, and Valrhona Azélia chocolate sauce. ⁣

2. The Place

the Fullerton Hotel the place dining
Dine in the stunning GPO atrium.

On level one of The Fullerton Hotel Sydney lives The Place – the hotel’s restaurant, in an atrium overlooking the former GPO. Here, dine on Modern Australian cuisine – think fresh, local seafood and a Riverina steak sandwich – along with a touch of Singaporean signature dishes, like Thai-style green curry or chicken satay. All in the shadow of the GPO clock tower, enjoying the GPO atrium’s natural light.

3. Local gelato

Couple enjoying ice-creams at First Fleet Park, The Rocks
Enjoy ice cream in the sunshine. (Image: Destination NSW)

What is summer without ice cream and/or gelato? Luckily, there are plenty of options just a short walk from The Fullerton Hotel Sydney, whether you’re craving a midday pick-me-up or an after-sun treat.

What to do/see

1. GPO Heritage Tour

the Fullerton Hotel Sydney lobby
Be awed by the building’s history.

Want to know more about the building you’re staying in? The Fullerton Hotel Sydney offers a complimentary 90-minute GPO Heritage Tour. Follow a knowledgeable tour guide to discover the stories, tales and legends of the former Sydney General Post Office building.

From the iconic clock tower (completed in 1891) to the black-and-white tiled staircase at 1 Martin Place, which was once the main entrance to the GPO and today serves as a prominent feature of the building to the 24 stone faces (mascarons) on the Martin Place side of the building. Part of the 1880s-era facade (designed by architect James Barnet), each represents different states, countries and continents.

2. Circular Quay

aerial of circular quay sydney
Catch a ferry from Circular Quay. (Image: Destination NSW)

An easy walk or light rail ride away from The Fullerton Hotel Sydney, lies the bustling Circular Quay. Here, you can sit for a drink and nibbles at the Opera Bar, or head into the iconic house itself for a show. It’s also a major ferry port, becoming your gateway to Sydney’s beaches, Luna Park and even Sydney Zoo.

3. Royal Botanic Gardens

view of circular quay from Sydney's Royal Botanic Garden
Wander through Sydney’s Royal Botanic Garden. (Image: Destination NSW)

Just beyond Circular Quay, discover Sydney’s Royal Botanic Garden. Wander through this 30-hectare, heritage-listed, botanical garden – exploring its differing sections, from Australian native botanicals to garden beds of vibrant flowers to towering groves of international trees.

It’s also the perfect place for a picnic, so pick up supplies before you come and enjoy a spot on the grassy meadow looking out into the harbour.

4. Theatre Royal

a show at Theatre Royal
Take in a show at Theatre Royal. (Image: Daniel Boud)

Just a one-minute walk from The Fullerton Hotel Sydney, take in a show at Theatre Royal. Built in 1976, the theatre has been offering a broad range of entertainment since the 1990s. Expect a show roster that ranges from the classics (like Cats) to the modern) like Pretty Woman: The Musical).

Start planning a summer stay in Sydney worth remembering at fullertonhotels.com/fullerton-hotel-sydney.