This small coastal town is South Australia’s best-kept secret

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An unlikely tourist mecca on South Australia’s rugged Eyre Peninsula offers a unique immersion in an unrivalled aquatic environment.

What are the necessary ingredients for the perfect Aussie summer holiday? Nabbing a spot near a swimmable beach ranks pretty highly, as does ensuring the eskies are well-stocked with chilled seafood and even colder drinks. Maybe you can even throw in a few roos hopping around or a sunset over the water.

the Baird Bay Experience boat anchors, Eyre Peninsula, SA

The Baird Bay Experience boat anchors while guests explore the pristine underwater environment. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The sleepy town of Baird Bay, which lies three hours north of Port Lincoln on South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula, ticks all of these boxes. But it also boasts one more factor that lifts it above any competitors.

Though this small collection of holiday homes has a permanent population of just five, there are plenty more locals on the rocky islet where the sheltered bay meets the roaring Southern Ocean. And the 140 Australian sea lions are every bit as friendly as their human counterparts.

sea lions swimming in Baird Bay, Eyre Peninsula, SA

Swimming with sea lions is one of the ultimate bucket-list experiences to enjoy off the coast of South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

When I reach Jones Island after a 20-minute boat ride, two females and a large bull are swimming in the shallows. A few pups splash around closer to shore, while dozens of mature sea lions laze between the low scrub and craggy limestone protrusions.

Hopping into the water, our group slowly moves towards these curious beasts, which look comically clumsy when dragging themselves over the rocks, but are superbly graceful once they hit the water.

Before long, an immature bull swims right through the middle of the group before sitting on the bottom and regarding us thoughtfully. Though we’ve been told to stay at least a metre away, he’s under no such restrictions and comes face to face with several swimmers, his whiskers almost touching their faces.

sea lions up close

Engage with the natural world up close. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The other sea lions soon grow jealous of the attention he’s getting and several playful females join the fun. The sea lions corkscrew and pirouette around us effortlessly before leaping out of the water to show off their creamy bellies. I’m so caught up in the spectacle that I’m shocked when our guide, marine biologist Emma Wilkins, says we’ve been in the water for an hour.

But when we hop back onboard, I barely have time to finish a cup of hot chocolate before we’re back in the water, this time to watch 20 dolphins passing so closely I can make out the scratches and scars along their otherwise smooth grey backs.

dolphins swimming in Baird Bay, Eyre Peninsula

Swimming with dolphins is part of the Baird Bay Experience. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

“With most wildlife experiences, you’re wearing camo or tucked away in a hide," says Kat Bevan, one half of the husband-and-wife team that manages Baird Bay Experience. “But here, you’re in the animals’ habitat and they come right up to you. There’s nothing like it in the world!"

Baird Bay Experience manager Kat Bevan

Baird Bay Experience manager Kat Bevan is passionate about conservation. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

We’re tucking into a post-swim lunch of herb-crusted King George whiting with beetroot and citrus salad as I learn about some of the other regional highlights. Baird Bay Experience was relaunched late last year by luxury travel specialist The Tailor, and in addition to the sea lion and dolphin swims, it has two freshly renovated onsite villas that allow it to double as Australia’s newest all-inclusive lodge.

the outdoor lounge at one of the seaside villas, Baird Bay Experience

Guests of Seaside Villas are invited to unwind in the outdoor lounge. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

The rammed-earth buildings have seven bedrooms between them and are linked by a sunken barbecue area and inviting saltwater pool that looks over the bay. Any groups that book the villas have exclusive use of the property, and there are enough activities in the surrounding region to keep guests busy for weeks. They can try private surfing lessons, set up a cricket pitch on a sandbar in the middle of the bay or visit a local oyster farmer and bring back a few dozen fresh oysters to snack on.

Manager Brendon Bevan of Baird Bay Experience

Manager Brendon Bevan is committed to caring for the environment. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Kat can organise e-biking trips to Point Labatt to see herds of sea lions and New Zealand fur seals lazing on slabs of red granite. Or lead nature walks through the surrounding bush where “you go over a couple of sand dunes and then suddenly it’s all red sand and spinifex and you could be in inland Australia".

fishing and kayaking on Baird Bay

The bay is ideal for fishing and kayaking. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

I decide on a spot of fishing out the front of the villas with Kat’s husband Brendon, who takes me out on a pedal-powered kayak. I’m convinced Brendon has somehow set things to easy mode as I reel in one salmon trout after another along with a few trevallies.

pelicans on the Eyre Peninsula

Pelicans congregate on the Eyre Peninsula. (Image: Getty/Wildkirin Photography)

Guests can bring their catch back to be scaled and filleted, which, according to Kat, “provides a bit of theatre because all the pelicans come in and you can throw bits of fish to them". More importantly, inhouse chef Calvin Von Niebel can incorporate them into the next day’s menu.

Executive chef Calvin Von Neibel at sea

Executive chef Calvin Von Neibel celebrates the bounty of the sea. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Even when guests return empty-handed, the former executive chef for the Ottolenghi group has enough local contacts to turn every meal into a mini geography lesson.

Streaky Bay oysters, Baird Bay Experience

Snack on freshly caught oysters. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Freshly shucked Smoky Bay oysters arrive with mignonette and green nam jim, bluefin tuna from Sceale Bay is marinated in lime and coconut, Cook Islands style, and Port Kenny squid turns up in a salad with potatoes, zucchini flowers and gazpacho.

Add in Venus Bay prawns, blue swimmer crabs from Streaky Bay and whiting pulled out of the waters directly in front of the lodge and you have an embarrassment of riches, even in a region famed for its maritime bounty.

a white-sand beach on Streaky Bay

Streaky Bay is 50 kilometres to the north of Baird Bay. (Image: Getty/Mackenzie Sweetnam)

Dinners are accompanied by sublime views over the bay, which is turned into a shimmering golden platter by the setting sun. As the pelicans skim over the surface on their way home and mobs of western greys come out to graze, I’m hard-pressed to think of a better location for a summer getaway.

a sea lion swimming at sea with a boat behind it

Dive into the experience. (Image: David Edgar)

“Streaky Bay is the closest town, and that’s a quintessential laid-back Aussie fishing village where all the locals are friendly – almost like Summer Bay in Home & Away," Kat tells me.

“But even that feels a long way away. We’re in a very remote part of Australia that is off the beaten track and not really heard of. But it has awesome beaches, produce and wildlife… What more could you want?"

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Baird Bay is about three hours north of Port Lincoln, with a pickup service available for overnight guests. Chartered flights can also be organised to Streaky Bay.

Playing there

Baird Bay Experience’s sea lion and dolphin swims run from 1 September to 30 June and cost $325, including wetsuit hire and a two-course lunch.

Staying there

the Eko Seaside Villa, Baird Bay

Eko Seaside Villa epitomises quiet luxury. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

All-inclusive stays in one of the two villas at Baird Bay Seaside Villas are $2000 per person per night, for a minimum of two guests. That rate includes safari-style touring, chef-prepared meals, beverages and transfers from Streaky Bay.

Alexis Buxton-Collins spent his twenties working as a music journalist and beer taster before somehow landing an even dreamier job as a freelance travel writer. Now he travels the world from his base in Adelaide and contributes to publications including Qantas, Escape, The Guardian and Lonely Planet. Alexis has never seen a hill he didn't want to climb and specialises in outdoor adventures (he won the 2022 ASTW award for best nature/wildlife story for a feature on Kangaroo Island). When he's not scouring South Australia for the newest wineries and hikes, he's looking for excuses to get back to spots like Karijini and Ningaloo.
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SA’s first off-grid island resort to add 22 luxury cabins with ocean views

Island life just got even sweeter.

Once a humble sheep farm established in the 19th century, Louth Island is now the site of an opulent eco-conscious property that’s redefining Australia’s luxury accommodation landscape.

Since first opening its doors in 2023, Rumi on Louth has expanded in carefully crafted stages, each more impressive than the last. And now, with the unveiling of its brand-new cabins, the resort is poised to elevate the experience once again.

The current accommodation options

While the future is looking particularly bright for guests of Rumi on Louth, the current accommodation options are nothing to sneeze at. Presently, the resort boasts a one-bedroom ocean view suite with an open-plan kitchenette, in-suite bar, en suite with rain shower and king-size bed.

Rumi on Louth in South Australia

Wake up to views of the sea from your one-bedroom suite.

There are also four ocean view king rooms available, each offering rain showers, king-size beds and in-room amenities like coffee machines and 65-inch flatscreens. No matter what room you stay in, you’ll be treated to floor-to-ceiling windows that soak in uninterrupted ocean views across the pristine Spencer Gulf.

For larger groups, the gorgeous private retreat is the ideal escape. It features one queen-size and eight king-single rooms, two bathrooms, a fully equipped kitchen, spacious living area, split-system air conditioning and large private deck with outdoor furnishings.

Earlier this year, Rumi on Louth’s founder Che Metcalfe also revealed his $20-million plans for 23 earth-sheltered villas and a VIP residence with its own private beach and horizon pool. But clearly, that was just the beginning.

The new cabins

Just when you thought it couldn’t get more impressive, another chapter begins. South Australian entrepreneur and former CEO of Uniti Group, Che Metcalfe, who bought Louth Island in 2021, has just announced additional accommodation for the eco-resort.

Rumi on Louth in South Australia

The new cabins will join 23 private earth-sheltered villas.

Rumi on Louth will add 22 new ocean view cabins to its portfolio during its next phase of development, with hot tubs and a tennis court to match. While not a lot is known about the specific design of these new cabins or how they will differ from the existing rooms and upcoming villas, Metcalfe’s track record hints at something special. In adherence to its core ethos, the rooms will be fully off-grid and sustainable, too.

Rumi on Louth in South Australia

Rumi on Louth is completely powered by solar energy.

Rumi on Louth is completely powered by solar energy, equipped with advanced compost/recycling systems and even has its own desalination plant. The addition of chicken coops and vegetable gardens will also help the eco-resort on its mission to restore and revegetate Louth Island.

This forward-thinking approach has already landed the resort among Australia’s best eco-retreats, so guests can enjoy their stay knowing it won’t leave an environmental footprint.

The rest of the resort

If you can tear yourself away from your room, there’s plenty to keep you occupied across the 135-hectare property. Current guests can indulge at the onsite day spa, dine at the two-hatted Samphire restaurant and partake in a variety of signature experiences.

Rumi on Louth in South Australia

Dine on fresh local produce at two-hatted Samphire restaurant.

From dreamy beach picnics and cooking masterclasses to catamaran cruises and kayak fishing, you’re spoilt for choice. Or simply wile away the day at Louth Island’s stunning secluded beach.

When plans were revealed for Rumi’s earth-sheltered villas at the start of 2025, an extensive blueprint for new resort-style facilities came with it. Think pickleball courts, a Japanese-style onsen and a five-star restaurant, plunge pools, saunas and private cabanas, as well as a map of walking trails around the island.

Rumi on Louth in South Australia

Enjoy a private cabana on the beach.

The details

Rumi on Louth is situated on Louth Island, just a few kilometres off the coast of Port Lincoln in South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula. It is completely self-sufficient, off-grid and sustainable, with conservation and regeneration at its heart.

The resort is only accessible by boat – guests will be picked up from Port Lincoln Airport and transported to the resort via its amphibious water vessel, Sealegs. Day visitors are also welcome, but transport to the jetty for pick up must be arranged independently.

Rumi on Louth in South Australia

Louth Island is only accessible via boat transfer.

Reservations are open now, with room prices varying from $630 per night in an ocean view king room to $945 per night for the one-bedroom ocean view suite. The private retreat can be booked from $2500 per night with a minimum stay of two nights.

No date of completion has been confirmed for the second phase of development, but with the green light granted, construction is now moving ahead. Watch this space!