This small coastal town is South Australia’s best-kept secret

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An unlikely tourist mecca on South Australia’s rugged Eyre Peninsula offers a unique immersion in an unrivalled aquatic environment.

What are the necessary ingredients for the perfect Aussie summer holiday? Nabbing a spot near a swimmable beach ranks pretty highly, as does ensuring the eskies are well-stocked with chilled seafood and even colder drinks. Maybe you can even throw in a few roos hopping around or a sunset over the water.

the Baird Bay Experience boat anchors, Eyre Peninsula, SA
The Baird Bay Experience boat anchors while guests explore the pristine underwater environment. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The sleepy town of Baird Bay, which lies three hours north of Port Lincoln on South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula, ticks all of these boxes. But it also boasts one more factor that lifts it above any competitors.

Though this small collection of holiday homes has a permanent population of just five, there are plenty more locals on the rocky islet where the sheltered bay meets the roaring Southern Ocean. And the 140 Australian sea lions are every bit as friendly as their human counterparts.

sea lions swimming in Baird Bay, Eyre Peninsula, SA
Swimming with sea lions is one of the ultimate bucket-list experiences to enjoy off the coast of South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

When I reach Jones Island after a 20-minute boat ride, two females and a large bull are swimming in the shallows. A few pups splash around closer to shore, while dozens of mature sea lions laze between the low scrub and craggy limestone protrusions.

Hopping into the water, our group slowly moves towards these curious beasts, which look comically clumsy when dragging themselves over the rocks, but are superbly graceful once they hit the water.

Before long, an immature bull swims right through the middle of the group before sitting on the bottom and regarding us thoughtfully. Though we’ve been told to stay at least a metre away, he’s under no such restrictions and comes face to face with several swimmers, his whiskers almost touching their faces.

sea lions up close
Engage with the natural world up close. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The other sea lions soon grow jealous of the attention he’s getting and several playful females join the fun. The sea lions corkscrew and pirouette around us effortlessly before leaping out of the water to show off their creamy bellies. I’m so caught up in the spectacle that I’m shocked when our guide, marine biologist Emma Wilkins, says we’ve been in the water for an hour.

But when we hop back onboard, I barely have time to finish a cup of hot chocolate before we’re back in the water, this time to watch 20 dolphins passing so closely I can make out the scratches and scars along their otherwise smooth grey backs.

dolphins swimming in Baird Bay, Eyre Peninsula
Swimming with dolphins is part of the Baird Bay Experience. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

“With most wildlife experiences, you’re wearing camo or tucked away in a hide," says Kat Bevan, one half of the husband-and-wife team that manages Baird Bay Experience. “But here, you’re in the animals’ habitat and they come right up to you. There’s nothing like it in the world!"

Baird Bay Experience manager Kat Bevan
Baird Bay Experience manager Kat Bevan is passionate about conservation. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

We’re tucking into a post-swim lunch of herb-crusted King George whiting with beetroot and citrus salad as I learn about some of the other regional highlights. Baird Bay Experience was relaunched late last year by luxury travel specialist The Tailor, and in addition to the sea lion and dolphin swims, it has two freshly renovated onsite villas that allow it to double as Australia’s newest all-inclusive lodge.

the outdoor lounge at one of the seaside villas, Baird Bay Experience
Guests of Seaside Villas are invited to unwind in the outdoor lounge. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

The rammed-earth buildings have seven bedrooms between them and are linked by a sunken barbecue area and inviting saltwater pool that looks over the bay. Any groups that book the villas have exclusive use of the property, and there are enough activities in the surrounding region to keep guests busy for weeks. They can try private surfing lessons, set up a cricket pitch on a sandbar in the middle of the bay or visit a local oyster farmer and bring back a few dozen fresh oysters to snack on.

Manager Brendon Bevan of Baird Bay Experience
Manager Brendon Bevan is committed to caring for the environment. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Kat can organise e-biking trips to Point Labatt to see herds of sea lions and New Zealand fur seals lazing on slabs of red granite. Or lead nature walks through the surrounding bush where “you go over a couple of sand dunes and then suddenly it’s all red sand and spinifex and you could be in inland Australia".

fishing and kayaking on Baird Bay
The bay is ideal for fishing and kayaking. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

I decide on a spot of fishing out the front of the villas with Kat’s husband Brendon, who takes me out on a pedal-powered kayak. I’m convinced Brendon has somehow set things to easy mode as I reel in one salmon trout after another along with a few trevallies.

pelicans on the Eyre Peninsula
Pelicans congregate on the Eyre Peninsula. (Image: Getty/Wildkirin Photography)

Guests can bring their catch back to be scaled and filleted, which, according to Kat, “provides a bit of theatre because all the pelicans come in and you can throw bits of fish to them". More importantly, inhouse chef Calvin Von Niebel can incorporate them into the next day’s menu.

Executive chef Calvin Von Neibel at sea
Executive chef Calvin Von Neibel celebrates the bounty of the sea. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Even when guests return empty-handed, the former executive chef for the Ottolenghi group has enough local contacts to turn every meal into a mini geography lesson.

Streaky Bay oysters, Baird Bay Experience
Snack on freshly caught oysters. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

Freshly shucked Smoky Bay oysters arrive with mignonette and green nam jim, bluefin tuna from Sceale Bay is marinated in lime and coconut, Cook Islands style, and Port Kenny squid turns up in a salad with potatoes, zucchini flowers and gazpacho.

Add in Venus Bay prawns, blue swimmer crabs from Streaky Bay and whiting pulled out of the waters directly in front of the lodge and you have an embarrassment of riches, even in a region famed for its maritime bounty.

a white-sand beach on Streaky Bay
Streaky Bay is 50 kilometres to the north of Baird Bay. (Image: Getty/Mackenzie Sweetnam)

Dinners are accompanied by sublime views over the bay, which is turned into a shimmering golden platter by the setting sun. As the pelicans skim over the surface on their way home and mobs of western greys come out to graze, I’m hard-pressed to think of a better location for a summer getaway.

a sea lion swimming at sea with a boat behind it
Dive into the experience. (Image: David Edgar)

“Streaky Bay is the closest town, and that’s a quintessential laid-back Aussie fishing village where all the locals are friendly – almost like Summer Bay in Home & Away," Kat tells me.

“But even that feels a long way away. We’re in a very remote part of Australia that is off the beaten track and not really heard of. But it has awesome beaches, produce and wildlife… What more could you want?"

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

Baird Bay is about three hours north of Port Lincoln, with a pickup service available for overnight guests. Chartered flights can also be organised to Streaky Bay.

Playing there

Baird Bay Experience’s sea lion and dolphin swims run from 1 September to 30 June and cost $325, including wetsuit hire and a two-course lunch.

Staying there

the Eko Seaside Villa, Baird Bay
Eko Seaside Villa epitomises quiet luxury. (Image: Robert Lang Photography)

All-inclusive stays in one of the two villas at Baird Bay Seaside Villas are $2000 per person per night, for a minimum of two guests. That rate includes safari-style touring, chef-prepared meals, beverages and transfers from Streaky Bay.

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Alexis Buxton-Collins
Alexis Buxton-Collins spent his twenties working as a music journalist and beer taster before somehow landing an even dreamier job as a freelance travel writer. Now he travels the world from his base in Adelaide and contributes to publications including Qantas, Escape, The Guardian and Lonely Planet. Alexis has never seen a hill he didn't want to climb and specialises in outdoor adventures (he won the 2022 ASTW award for best nature/wildlife story for a feature on Kangaroo Island). When he's not scouring South Australia for the newest wineries and hikes, he's looking for excuses to get back to spots like Karijini and Ningaloo.
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Tropical islands, good food & world-class shows: Your eventful guide to a holiday in Townsville

    Lee Mylne Lee Mylne
    Townsville is buzzing as the events capital of North Queensland, with a host of festivals, international sporting and arts events on offer.

    Perched between the Coral Sea, the towering pink monolith of Castle Hill, and fringed by ancient rainforest ranges, Townsville North Queensland is a genuine tropical playground.

    Here, find postcard-worthy landscapes all the way from nearby Magnetic Island to inland swimming holes and waterfalls – all dotted with an array of endemic wildlife. Get the heart racing with adrenaline water sports. Soak in a world-class arts scene. And take advantage of a culinary offering that punches well above its weight.

    And, then there’s the fact that Townsville has fast become the destination to an outstanding line-up of events – from live music to top-level sporting contests.

    Whether you have a weekend or weeks, there’s plenty here to fill your tropical getaway.

    Day 1: An eventful day

    Morning

    The Strand in townsville
    Explore The Strand.

    Daily flights offer easy connectivity from all capital cities to Townsville Airport, and within 10 minutes’ drive, you’re in the city centre. Start your stay by recharging with breakfast or coffee at the city’s newest spot, Botaniq Cafe, on the ground floor of the award-winning Bridgewater restaurant on the banks of Ross Creek.

    Start exploring on a breezy walk along the 2.5-kilometre foreshore of The Strand. Here, a waterfront path stretches all the way to the headland of Jezzine Barracks parklands. Admire more than 35 sculptures and artworks, as well as stunning views from the top of the park. Further along, Queens Gardens, established in 1870, offers a cool retreat and is Townsville’s oldest botanic garden.

    Stroll Gregory Street, off The Strand, for boutiques, homeware stores, cafes and restaurants, or follow a self-guided street art walking trail through the city centre, stopping to admire colourful works by big-name artists including Queenslander Fintan Magee.

    Afternoon

    concert in front of castle hill townsville events
    Time your trip for one of many Townsville events.

    For a casual lunch, stop in at Balabite for Mediterranean and Middle Eastern-inspired street food. Build your own pita with a choice of fillings, before enjoying a relaxing afternoon in preparation for one of Townsville’s big events.

    Whether it’s a concert from a big-name international band – think Foo Fighters or Guns ‘n’ Roses – or a night cheering on the Wallabies in the Rugby World Cup, there’s plenty to entertain you.

    Time your visit for events like the Townsville Folk Festival (June 12-14), Supercars Townsville 500 (July 10-12), Sealink Magnetic Island Race Week (August 27-September 2), North Australian Festival of Arts (September 25 – October 11) or see the Wallabies in the Rugby World Cup (coming in 2027).

    Day 2: Island dreaming

    Morning

    Pilgrim Sailing magnetic island
    Take a lunchtime sailing trip with Pilgrim Sailing.

    Fuel up with breakfast at Cbar on The Strand, looking out to your destination for the day: Magnetic Island (or ‘Maggie’ to the locals). Catch a quick ferry to spend the day exploring walking trails through national park, choosing from 23 beaches and trying a hand at the island’s water sports.

    The Forts Walk is the best place to see wild koalas in Australia, and you’re likely to find friendly wallabies at the Nelly or Geoffrey Bay headlands. Try guided snorkelling with Aquascene Magnetic Island or Pleasure Divers, or take a land-based tour with MI Ride Discovery Tours to the secluded west coast of the island.

    Pilgrim Magnetic Island offers four-hour lunchtime sailing trips aboard a 58-foot luxury yacht, dropping in to some of Magnetic Island’s remote bays for snorkelling or swimming and including gourmet grazing platters, drinks and ocean views.

    Afternoon

    picnic bay on magnetic island
    Head to Picnic Bay for delicious dining.

    Refuel after a morning of adventure. Seasalt Arcade at Picnic Bay has several good options. Savour craft brews and Latin tapas at Maggie Island Brewery, opt for bagels and light bites at Lava Lava cafe or fine dining at Restaurant Elsie.

    Now, it’s time to choose your own adventure. Stay the whole day on Maggie, or return to Townsville, where there’s plenty more to discover.

    Head to The Docks at Flinders Street Wharves for lunch. Spend the afternoon relaxing by the beach or join Poseidon Adventures for water sport adventures.

    Evening

    Ardo's Rooftop townsville
    End your day watching the sunset from Ardo’s Rooftop.

    However your day looked, end it with cocktails and canapes at Townsville’s Ardo Rooftop. Find something more substantial at the hotel’s elegant but casual Chef-hatted Japanese restaurant Terasu, where each dish is a work of art.

    Day 3: Natural delights

    Morning

    couple holiding hands at the top of castle hill in townsville
    Join the locals for an early walk to the peak of Castle Hill. (Credit: My Colourful World)

    Join the local early morning pilgrimage to hike up Castle Hill for the best 360-degree views in town, before heading to breakfast at Spirited Goat for gourmet treats and locally brewed coffee.

    A trip to Townsville wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the outer Great Barrier Reef. For those with time, Adrenalin Snorkel and Dive runs full-day trips to the Museum of Underwater Art for snorkellers and divers to admire the reef’s stunning collection of submerged sculptures on John Brewer Reef, about two hours by boat from Townsville.

    Afternoon

    Shorehouse restaurant townsville
    Stop into the award-winning Shorehouse.

    Round off your Townsville getaway with lunch at Shorehouse, awarded Best Restaurant in the North Queensland People’s Choice Awards every year since 2023. Dine on the deck to catch the breeze and sample modern Asian cuisine as you watch the world go.

    Keen for something more to extend your stay? There are always more adventures –new, familiar and with a twist – in the events capital of the North.

    Plan your eventful visit to Townsville North Queensland at townsvillenorthqueensland.com.au.