Inside Tasmania's Famous Luxury Hotel: Saffire Freycinet

On Tasmania’s unsullied east coast, a bastion of design and luxury comes complete with generous hospitality, stunning views and inquisitive locals.

First impressions

The first thing you’ll notice about Saffire is that it’s a striking piece of architecture. Designed by Robert Morris Nunn @ Circa, Saffire comprises a series of 20 luxury villas with private courtyards, placed a discreet distance away from a monumental main lodge. It’s this building you’ll recognise from the photos – the lodge resembles a giant stingray-shaped spaceship that has gracefully landed in pretty native bushland adjacent to Freycinet National Park on Tasmania’s east coast, a 2.5-hour drive from Hobart.

It is a remarkable structure inside, too. Panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows make an artwork of views across intense aqua water to the Hazards, a cluster of pink granite hills on the opposite side of Coles Bay. A curved cathedral ceiling creates a dramatic sense of space, while natural materials like honed marble and timbers such as Tasmanian oak, grey iron bark, celery top pine and recycled Sydney blue gum enhance the organic nature of the build.

The location

While some may wonder why you’d head to Tasmania for a luxury resort holiday when you could be in the Whitsundays, those who’ve been to this remarkable location will need little encouragement to go back. Freycinet National Park is home to some of the most dramatic coastal cliffs in Australia, as well as one of the country’s most beautiful beaches, Wineglass Bay. The Lodge itself sits among eucalypt forest fronting Great Oyster Bay, a white-sand beach scattered with rust-red lichen-covered boulders.

But by no means is a stay at Saffire all about nature: the staff here are among the most genuinely friendly I’ve encountered (both in Australia and overseas). And they act on the little things – on a particularly chilly evening at the start of our stay, the photographer said a throw-away line about how perfect it would be to sit in front of the fire with a glass of glühwein. Next evening we climbed the stairs to find a vat of mulled wine bubbling away, ready and waiting for him.

Aerial view of picturesque beach and mountains on sunny morning. Freycinet Park, Tasmania. Australia

The room

The all-inclusive accommodation is superb – suites are spacious and manage to be both comfy and modern. All have deep bathtubs, king-size beds and wonderful views. It’s a perfect year-round lodge, too. If I had the budget (sadly, I don’t) I’d be more than happy to visit twice a year: once in summer, to explore the countryside on energetic day hikes; and again in winter, when the lodge’s impressive fireplace is ablaze and there is little reason to budge from one of the window-facing armchairs, where you can relax and watch the weather come in. (Although to be fair, Tasmanians tell me there is sunshine in this part of the state “300 days of the year.")

Saffire Freycinet luxury accommodation, Tasmania — Saffire Freycinet luxury, Tasmania

So the service, accommodation and scenery are all outstanding, but even still, my overwhelming recommendation for visiting Saffire would have to be the food, which is truly something special (see below).

Capacity

20 suites ensure a maximum of 40 guests at any time.

Accommodation

Most affordable room

Luxury Suites are priced from $2300 per night (for up to two people). They are 80 square metres and have a combined living/bedroom, double shower and bath, a courtyard and a sundeck with views to the Hazards, free wi-fi and an LCD TV. The Signature Suites offer greater living and deck space, whilst the Private Pavilions treats you to a separate living area and your own plunge pool. All room rates are all-inclusive and include all meals, drinks, complimentary minibar and most experiences, plus a voucher for any in-house Saffire Spa treatment.

best family-friendly places hotels resorts holiday with kids — There’s plenty of board and beach games to while away the time at Saffire Freycinet.

The best room in the house

The four Private Pavilions are priced from $2800 (including all meals and beverages). They are 140 square metres and have all of the above, plus a plunge pool, separate bedroom (with a second TV) and kitchenette (for $250 one of the chefs will cook for you in your suite and serve you at your private dining table). You also get a $200 credit voucher to use in the spa.

Best Features

The minibar

Complimentary minibars are a blessing. Consume whatever you want without a worry (as long as you have it on site, and don’t scoop it into your suitcase). There are locally made snacks, wines, Cascade beer, and McHenrys vodka and Overreem whisky.

The food & drink

Good luck finding room in your stomach, though. You’ve got multi-course breakfast, lunch and dinners to contend with, as well as afternoon teas of banana bread dropped into your room, pre-dinner drinks and canapés, and pots of herbal tea and handmade chocolates left in your room during the nightly turn-down service.

Communal lounge area

I love the communal lounge area. Bordered by a fireplace on one side and the view on the other, it’s a delightful space in which to socialise. There are traditional board games and chess boards (you’ll find chess boards in your room, too), as well as a wine aroma kit, which is a box of bottles filled with different scents. While rain fell down outside, we had great fun trying to guess what the contents of each bottle were.

Children are welcome

This is one of the few luxury lodges to welcome children of any age. While there’s no kids’ club per se, staff are only too happy to tailor activities to keep kids entertained. The Sapphire Lounge at Hobart airport is pretty special. It’s a big, airy, light-filled space with comfy lounges and complimentary tea, coffee and snacks where you can relax while you wait for your flight to be called. On site Saffire host Sandy is a delight – she can recommend things to do and see while you’re at the lodge as well as arrange transfers and make sure you’re good to go.

Down sides

If I have a complaint at all about Saffire itself, it’s that it doesn’t have a pool. Well, at least not a big, breathtaking communal pool. The four premium suites do have private plunge pools but they aren’t the most inviting or practical of set-ups. Resembling dark, narrow rectangular water features, they are hidden away in a private internal courtyard where bathers have nothing to look at but the fence (on the upside, they are heated – a blessing in winter).

Freycinet Peninsula and Wineglass Bay from the air, Tasmania.

Meanwhile, while you submerge yourself in what unkindly could be described as a sensory deprivation tank, you’re fully aware that on the opposite side of your pavilion there is an utterly wasted, totally fabulous view. But really, in my opinion, the only way Saffire could be bettered is to install a huge, sculptural, infinity-edged communal pool that is sympathetic to both the architecture and the landscape.

The Food

Palate Restaurant

Book at least one dinner at Palate Restaurant to experience the seasonal menu of delicious Tasmanian produce.

Freycinet Marine Farm

Head to Freycinet Marine Farm and snag a spot on the deck to enjoy incredibly fresh seafood.

The Devil’s Corner Cellar Door

The Devil’s Corner Cellar Door offers up more fresh seafood at the Fishers, and wood-fired pizza and good coffee in Tombolo Cafe.

Activities

Self-guided activities include mountain biking, hiking, kayaking, archery and fishing (you can catch salmon, flathead and flounder straight off the beach).

Complimentary guided activities include a tour of nearby Freycinet Marine Oyster Farm, a two-hour walk to Wineglass Bay, wine tastings at Freycinet Winery and bird-watching at Pelican Bay. You can also go behind the scenes in the kitchen for a chef’s cooking class and learn how to create great cocktails in a mixology class.

Signature experiences cost extra but deserve the extra outlay. There’s a three-hour adventure cruise out to uninhabited Schouten Island, which is also part of Freycinet National Park.

For thrill-seekers, a half-day quad-biking expedition along 4WD tracks through the National Park to Friendly Beaches. I did this one and I can report that I am not going to be doing Angelina Jolie out of any action movie roles any time soon. I could blame recent rains that caused multiple washouts (we had to turn back before we got to Friendly Beaches because one river crossing was too deep) but the truth is I drive like a grandma. It was great fun though, once I loosened up.

Hobart has quietly become our coolest capital, but the real wonder lies just beyond the city limits.

In the cool shade of Kunyani/ Mt Wellington, Hobart has earned a reputation. Home to culture-defining Dark MOFO, the city blends rugged, raw wilderness and rule-breaking galleries. But, step beyond the thrumming capital’s border and you’ll find a new perspective: historic towns, Jurassic-era cliffs and a UNESCO City of Gastronomy. With ALL Accor as your home away from home, fill your days with epicurean odysseys and wild scenery on the best day trips from Hobart.

Where to stay

Behind every good road trip is the perfect home base. Somewhere central to review your camera roll, make the most of Hobart’s dining scene and relax before setting off again.

For modern, Tasmanian-inspired design, book a stay at the Movenpick Hotel Hobart . Standing at the Salamanca Markets, look to the Hobart skyline and the award-winning hotel will catch your eye. As the third-tallest building in the CBD, the views across the harbour toward Antarctica are totally unique to your room. Here, end each day at the daily free chocolate hour (plus a free Movenpick ice cream for the little ones).

For a more budget-conscious option, head to the picture book, sandstone buildings of Macquarie Street. Nestled along the buzzing, historic streetscape, you’ll find Tasmania’s biggest hotel: the Ibis Styles . Return home each day to defrost in one of the hotel’s two saunas. Make use of the proximity to MONA, or take an easy stroll to the candy-coloured cottages of Battery Point between your adventures.

A stylish, Tasmanian-inspired bedroom at Mövenpick Hotel Hobart, your perfect base for relaxing after the best day trips from Hobart. — Elevate your Hobart stay with sleek style at Mövenpick.

1. Bruny Island

Craggy cliffs and tropical-hued, white sand beaches signal your arrival to Bruny Island/ Lunawanna-Alonnah.

Start your day trip at the island’s most iconic spot, the Neck Game Reserve. Scale the Trunganini steps to gaze out over the teensy stretch of land that juts through the sea connecting the two ends of the island.

Catch a rare glimpse of the white furred wallabies that call Bruny Island home at Adventure Bay. Then, for ocean-fresh oysters, pull into the drive-thru window at Get Shucked . Sample Bruny Island cheese at the cellar door before catching the ferry home with an esky full of local produce.

Bruny Island Neck is an isthmus of land connecting north and south Bruny Island. — Begin your adventure with a climb and a view. (Image: Elise Weaver)

2. Mount Wellington

At 1271 metres, Mount Wellington watches protectively over Hobart. Follow the winding road to climb through alpine forest and tufts of snow to reach the summit. Gaze down over Hobart and out to sea, or over your shoulder to the southwestern wilderness.

Reset your adrenaline with a mountain bike ride back down. Or, make like the locals and head into the mountain on foot. Try the hike to the Jurassic-period Organ Pipes which slips under the mountain’s magnificent dolerite cliffs (perfect for families thanks to the trail’s minimal incline).

For a view of Mount Wellington itself, hike nearby Cathedral Rock.

No matter where you are in Hobart you are never far away from the City's beloved mountain, Kunanyi / Mount Wellington — Climb through alpine forest to the summit. (Image: Paul Flemming)

2. Port Arthur

Constructed entirely by convicts, the manicured gardens and penal buildings of Port Arthur offer a day trip that practically hums with history.

The rugged, seagirt location was chosen for its difficult escape conditions. Now, you can cruise the coast below the towering, jagged cliffs of the Tasman National Park or wander the sloping fields of fragrant lavender.

Tickets to Port Arthur include a walking tour and harbour cruise. See the Isle of the Dead where 1000 men are buried in marked and unmarked graves. And Point Puer, Britain’s first prison for children.

The Port Arthur Historic Site is one of Australia's most important heritage sites and tourist destinations. Located on the scenic Turrakana / Tasman Peninsula in the south east of Tasmania, it offers a unique and essential experience for all visitors to the area. — Wander convict-built grounds and gardens. (Image: Dearna Bond)

3. Launceston

You’ll find Launceston at the confluence of three rivers after an easy 2.5-hour drive from Hobart. Launceston is a patchwork of old and new. Here, heritage streetscapes meet modern architecture.

Visit Cataract Gorge, the green, sun-dappled heart of the town and sacred meeting point for Tasmania’s indigenous communities. Pull up at roadside produce stalls that dot the Tamar Valley, or dine out. Launceston is, after all, a UNESCO City of Gastronomy.

Should the local wine scene persuade you, simply extend your time in Launceston at Peppers Silo (but definitely at least stop by the onsite restaurant, Grain of the Silo , for a farm fresh menu) or Mercure Launceston before heading back to Hobart.

Walk the sunlit paths of Cataract Gorge. (Image: Nick H Visuals)

4. Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary

Take a 35-minute drive from your hotel and you’ll find Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary . This social enterprise is run by a team of extremely passionate Tasmanians with a mission to look after critically endangered species who have found sanctuary here after facing extinction on the mainland.

Choose to wander the sanctuary at your own pace or join a guided tour (free with your ticket) to come face to face with Tassie’s most iconic species. Tasmanian Devils, wombats and echidnas are part of the free tour. You can book up close encounters with your favourite animals, too.

Bonorong is a Sanctuary for wildlife run by a passionate team of like-minded people. We're a social enterprise: a little business with a big heart. — Snap a cuddle-worthy encounter. (Image: Tourism Australia)

5. Richmond Village & Coal River Valley

Richmond is a town that belongs in a snow globe. Fifty colonial-era, Georgian buildings have been painstakingly restored and turned into cafes, cosy restaurants and galleries. Visit Richmond Gaol , said to be the home of a prisoner so vile he inspired Charles Dickens to pen Oliver Twist’s Fagin.

Then, follow the Coal River as it flows past grassy, duckling-dotted knolls and under the iconic Richmond Bridge, the oldest bridge in Australia. From the crest of the bridge, see the oldest Catholic Church in Australia. The river crawls past many cellar doors, perfect for a day of wine tasting.

Richmond is a picture-perfect town in the Coal River Valley wine region, offering a glimpse into early colonial life, one of the best day trips from Hobart. — Trace the river through history and wine country. (Image: Fin Matson)

Plan your trip to Hobart and beyond with ALL Accor at All.com .

Inside Tasmania’s famous luxury hotel: Saffire Freycinet