The best places to stay on Christmas Island

Carla Grossetti Carla Grossetti
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From a luxury eco lodge to a room at an inn known for its sunsets, here are 11 of the best places to stay on Christmas Island.

There is a lot to see and do on Christmas Island. But when you do find time to catch your breath and recover from your day’s adventures, you will need to find somewhere to enjoy some quiet time and creature comforts. Whether you want to live it up at Swell Lodge, one of the most unique places to stay in WA, or you want to hole up in a more humble Airbnb abode, or a boutique Balinese-style retreat will most likely depend on your budget. Much of the accommodation on Christmas Island centres around Settlement, Poon Saan and Kampong and each offers something different. Here are some of the best places to stay on Christmas Island.

Deserted beach, Beach walking tour, Christmas Island, Australia
There’s plenty to see on Christmas Island and finding accommodation in the heart of it all is easy.

Swell Lodge

The first thing that hits you as you walk into one of the two glass-fronted eco chalets that make up Swell Lodge is the immensity of the sea and sky.

Tucked away deep in Christmas Island National Park, Swell Lodge is perched on the edge of one of the island’s jagged sea cliffs overlooking the Indian Ocean. And when there is a swell running, it’s right in position, with the ocean stirring up a thundering crescendo in surround sound.

Swell Lodge Christmas Island
Enjoy pristine views from your luxury abode at Swell Lodge.

Eco-conscious travellers will love the fact the lodge is solar powered and runs a carbon-neutral program that includes offsetting emissions from its crab-safe lodge vehicle. A stay at Swell Lodge is all about secluded luxury, and includes your own private chef.

Best for: Solo travellers or couples.

Aerial shot of Swell Lodge, Christmas Island, Australia
Swell Lodge is perched on the edge of one of the island’s jagged sea cliffs.

Christmas Island Bali Style Retreat

Although Christmas Island is an Australian territory, it’s nearest neighbour is Indonesia, which means a breezy Balinese-style retreat feels right at home here.

The Christmas Island Bali Style Retreat enjoys elevated ocean views from its position on Phosphate Hill near the small township of Poon Saan. Sit on the expansive deck to soak up some sun and enjoy a drink while drinking in the soothing palette of blue sky and turquoise seas.

The retreat, which accommodates up to six people, is within five to 10 minutes of the town in Settlement and Flying Fish Cove and many of Christmas Island’s best restaurants and bars.

Best for: Families or groups.

Christmas Island Bali Style Retreat, Christmas Island, Australia
A breezy Balinese-style retreat feels right at home here.

The Cocos Padang Lodge

This refurbished heritage accommodation is a welcome addition on Christmas Island. The original building, which was typical of post-Second World War accommodation, was provided to its Cocos Malay workers by the Christmas Island Phosphate Mine until the 1960s.

All up, there are four self-contained apartments within walking distance to the local supermarket and the iconic Golden Bosun Tavern, one of the best places to eat on Christmas Island. Guests of the Cocos Padang Lodge are able to use the BBQ facilities at The Sunset.

Best for: Families or couples.

Cocos Padang Christmas Island accommodation
The Cocos Padang Lodge is a welcome addition to the Christmas Island accommodation offering.

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Captain’s Last Resort

One of the biggest highlights of staying at the Captain’s Last Resort on Christmas Island is the frigatebirds-eye’s view over the water. Keep your binoculars handy, as there is a lot of activity, from spinner dolphins lining up in pods to perform synchronised routines to a diverse array of birdlife pootling past the window.

After spending the day enjoying some of the best wilderness walks on Christmas Island, wander down to the main tourism precinct to meet some of the eccentric and warm-hearted locals.

The one-bedroom cottage is best-suited to singles and couples who enjoy exploring off the beaten track.

Best for: Solo travellers and couples.

Exterior, Captain's Last Resort, Christmas Island Accommodation, Australia
The one-bedroom cottage is best suited to those who enjoy exploring off the beaten track.

Diver’s Villa

The reefs off Christmas Island are considered to be one of nature’s great masterpieces amid the scuba diving community, and this villa, built in the 1930s, is designed to accommodate groups who want to share an underwater adventure.

The Diver’s Villa is one of the last pre-war bungalows built by the Christmas Island Phosphate Company that is still standing and the refurbished space, known on the island as Married Quarters 8 has been decorated in a contemporary colonial style.

We love that you can source seasonal ingredients from the garden such as papaya, coconuts, lemongrass, mint, lime and bananas. All up, there are four bedrooms and there is another one-bedroom waterfront villa, Sea Spray, which can also be rented out.

Best for: A group getaway.

Diver's Villa, Christmas Island, Australia
Diver’s Villa is one of the last pre-war bungalows.

CI Apartments

When WA residents pressed pause on their international travel plans, they started rediscovering the wonders of WA, with Christmas Island perfectly positioned to cater to adventurous travellers. Enter CI Apartments, which offers contemporary-style accommodation and a range of one-, two-, or three-bedroom apartments.

Comfy digs with a view are one thing, but there’s no substitute for location: after a busy day exploring Christmas Island, you will be grateful for the mini supermarket and Chinese restaurant across the road.

CI Apartments are also within a Malteser’s lob of the outdoor cinema, one of the best things to do on Christmas Island.

Best for: There are apartments to suit solo travellers, couples and families.

Exterior of CI Apartments, Christmas Island, Australia
CI Apartments offer contemporary-style accommodation.

Coconut Cottage

One of the latest additions to Christmas Island’s accommodation offering, Coconut Cottage is light and bright and, true to its name, shaded by coconut trees.

A secluded retreat in the main Settlement area of the island, it comes complete with views of the Indian Ocean and is set against a backdrop of wild national park.

Best for: Families or couples.

Coconut Cottage is an accommodation offering on Christmas Island
Check into Coconut Cottage, shaded by palms.

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The Sunset

If watching the sun sink over the ocean is your idea of luxury, then The Sunset will do nicely. Located along the waterfront in the beating heart of the Settlement township, Sunset offers unobstructed views of the ocean and its name is fitting when you’re afforded a front-row view of the sun dipping over the Indian Ocean from your balcony.

The pool at Sunset on Christmas Island
Take a dip in the pool to soak up the ocean views during your stay at Sunset.

The Sunset also has a pool, which isn’t exactly necessary with the big blue on your doorstep, but is greatly appreciated when you want a quick cool-off after exploring the wilderness.

Best for: Couples and solo travellers.

Sunset at Christmas Island, Australia
If watching the sun sink over the ocean is your idea of luxury, then The Sunset will do nicely.

The Retreat, Roundabout Retreat & Breeze Inn

This three-bedroom, centrally located unit is spacious and comfortable with a verandah overlooking the Indian Ocean.

Bid a hasty retreat to The Retreat when the sun is poised high in the sky to watch birds cruising by on the flight path. The Retreat is air-conditioned and has complimentary wi-fi and includes two queen beds and one room with twin singles.

While the best places to eat around Christmas Island are scattered nearby, there is a self-contained kitchen so you can whip up a feast and dine in.

Kitchen in Roundabout Retreat Christmas Island
Cook up a feast during your stay at Roundabout Retreat.

Other options include the newly renovated Roundabout Retreat (which sleeps a maximum of four) and Breeze Inn.

Best for: Families or couples.

Living room, Roundabout Retreat, Christmas Island Accommodation, Australia
Have a relaxing stay at Roundabout Retreat.
Read our guide to Christmas Island for more great travel tips and visit the Christmas Island website to start planning your trip now.
Carla Grossetti
Carla Grossetti has written across print and digital for Australian Traveller and International Traveller for more than a decade and has spent more than two decades finding excuses to eat well and travel far. A prestigious News Corp cadetship launched her career at The Cairns Post, before a stint at The Canberra Times and The Sydney Morning Herald gave way to extended wanders through Canada, the US, Mexico, Central America, Asia and Europe. Carla was chief sub editor at delicious and has contributed to Good Food, Travel & Luxury, Explore Travel, Escape. While living in London, Carla was on staff at Condé Nast Traveller and The Sunday Times Travel desk and was part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK.
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Inside Geelong’s glow-up from factory town to creative capital

    Chloe Cann Chloe Cann
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    Abandoned mills and forgotten paper plants are finding second lives – and helping redefine a city long underestimated. 

    Just 15 years ago, Federal Mills was a very different place. Once among the most significant industrial sites in Victoria, the historic woollen mill was one of a dozen that operated in Geelong at the industry’s peak in the mid-20th century, helping the city earn its title as ‘wool centre of the world’. But by the 1960s global competition and the rise of synthetic fabrics led to the slow decline of the industry, and Federal Mills finally shuttered its doors in 2001. Within a few years, the abandoned North Geelong grounds had become makeshift pastoral land, with cows and goats grazing among the overgrown grass between the empty red-brick warehouses. It was a forgotten pocket of the city, all but two klicks from the bustle of the CBD.  

    Geelong cellar door wine bar
    Geelong has shed its industrial identity to become an innovative urban hub with reimagined heritage spaces. (Image: Ash Hughes)

    Federal Mills: from forgotten factory to creative precinct 

    Today, the century-old complex stands reborn. The distinctive sawtooth-roof buildings have been sensitively restored. An old silo is splashed with a bright floral mural, landscapers have transformed the grounds, and the precinct is once again alive with activity. More than 1000 people work across 50-plus businesses here. It’s so busy, in fact, that on a sunny Thursday morning in the thick of winter, it’s hard to find a car park. The high ceilings, open-plan design, and large multi-paned windows – revolutionary features for factories of their time – have again become a drawcard.  

    Paddock Bakery andPatisserie
    Paddock Bakery and Patisserie is housed within the historic wool factory. (Image: Gallant Lee)

    At Paddock, one of the precinct’s newer tenants, weaving looms and dye vats have been replaced by a wood-fired brick oven and heavy-duty mixers. Open since April 2024, the bakery looks right at home here; the building’s industrial shell is softened by ivy climbing its steel frames, and sunlight streams through the tall windows. Outside, among the white cedar trees, families at picnic benches linger over dippy eggs and bagels, while white-collar workers pass in and out, single-origin coffee and crème brûlée doughnuts in hand. 

    Geelong: Australia’s only UNESCO City of Design 

    Paddock Bakery
    Paddock Bakery can be found at Federal Mills. (Image: Gallant Lee)

    “A lot of people are now seeing the merit of investing in Geelong,” says Paul Traynor, the head of Hamilton Hospitality Group, which redeveloped Federal Mills. A city once shunned as Sleepy Hollow, and spurned for its industrial, working-class roots and ‘rust belt’ image, Geelong has long since reclaimed its ‘Pivot City’ title, having reinvented itself as an affordable, lifestyle-driven satellite city, and a post-COVID migration hotspot.  

    And the numbers stand testament to the change. In March 2025, and for the first time in its history, Greater Geelong became Australia’s most popular regional town for internal migration, overtaking Queensland’s Sunshine Coast. Current forecasts suggest Geelong will continue to outpace many other Australian cities and towns, with jobs growing at double the rate of the population.

    Tourism is booming, too. The 2023-24 financial year was Geelong and The Bellarine region’s busiest on record, with 6.4 million visitors making it one of the fastest-growing destinations in the country. It’s not hard to see why: beyond the city’s prime positioning at the doorstep of the Great Ocean Road, Geelong’s tenacity and cultural ambition stands out.  

    As Australia’s only UNESCO City of Design, Geelong is swiftly shaking off its industrial past to become a model for urban renewal, innovation, sustainability and creative communities. The signs are everywhere, from the revitalisation of the city’s waterfront, and the landmark design of the Geelong Library and Heritage Centre and Geelong Arts Centre, to the growing network of local designers, architects and artists, and the burgeoning roster of festivals and events. That’s not even mentioning the adaptive reuse of storied old industrial buildings – from Federal Mills, to Little Creatures’ brewery ‘village’ housed within a 1920s textile mill – or the city’s flourishing food and wine scene.  

    The rise of a food and wine destination  

    boiler house
    Restaurant 1915 is housed within a restored former boiler house. (Image: Harry Pope/Two Palms)

    Traynor credits now-closed local restaurant Igni, which opened in 2016, as the turning point for Geelong’s hospo industry. “[Aaron Turner, Igni’s chef-patron] was probably the first guy, with all due respect, to raise the bar food-wise for Geelong,” he says. “People now treat it really seriously, and there’s clearly a market for it.” While Igni is gone, Turner now helms a string of other notable Geelong venues, including The Hot Chicken Project and Tacos y Liquor, all within the buzzy, street art-speckled laneways of the CBD’s Little Malop Street Precinct. Many others have also popped up in Igni’s wake, including Federal Mills’ own restaurant, 1915. Housed within the cavernous boiler house, 1915’s interior is dramatic: soaring, vaulted ceilings with timber beams, exposed brick, a huge arched window. The share plates echo the space’s bold character, playing with contrast and texture, with dishes such as a compressed watermelon tataki, the sweet, juicy squares tempered by salty strands of fried leeks, and charred, smoky snow peas dusted with saganaki on a nutty bed of romesco. 

    Woolstore
    The Woolstore is a new restaurant and bar housed within a century-old warehouse. (Image: Amy Carlon)

     The Woolstore, one of The Hamilton Group’s most recent hospo projects, opened in February. It occupies a century-old riverside warehouse and exudes a more sultry, fine dining ambience. Much like Federal Mills, the blueprint was to preserve the original brickwork, tallowwood flooring and nods to the building’s former life. That same careful consideration extends to the well-versed, affable waitstaff as well as the kitchen. Head chef Eli Grubb is turning out an eclectic mix of ambitious and indulgent mod Oz dishes that deliver: strikingly tender skewers of chicken tsukune, infused with hints of smoke from the parrilla grill, and glazed with a moreish, sweet gochujang ‘jam’; nduja arancini fragrant with hints of aniseed and the earthy lick of sunny saffron aioli; and golden squares of potato pavé, adorned with tiny turrets of crème fraîche, crisp-fried saltbush leaves, and Avruga caviar, to name but a few stand-out dishes.  

    Woolstore menu
    Woolstore’s menu is designed for sharing.

    Breathing new life into historic spaces  

    On the city’s fringe, hidden down a winding side road with little fanfare, lies a long-dormant site that’s being gently revived. Built from locally quarried bluestone and brick, and dating back to the 1870s, the complex of original tin-roofed mill buildings is lush with greenery and backs onto the Barwon River and Buckley Falls; the audible rush of water provides a soothing soundtrack. Fyansford Paper Mill is one of few complexes of its time to survive intact. It feels steeped in history and spellbindingly rustic.  

    “We were looking for an old industrial place that had some charm and romance to it,” explains Sam Vogel, the owner, director and winemaker at Provenance Wines which moved here in 2018. When he first viewed the building with his former co-owner, it was in such a state of disrepair that the tradie tenant occupying the space had built a shed within it to escape the leaking roof and freezing winter temperatures. “To say it was run down would be an understatement,” he notes. “There was ivy growing through the place; the windows were all smashed. It was a classic Grand Designs project.” 

    Provenance Wines
    Provenance Wines moved to Fyansford Paper Mill in 2018. (Image: Cameron Murray Photography)

    The team has since invested more than a million dollars into their new home. Where paper processing machinery once sat, wine barrels are now stacked. Vaulted cathedral ceilings are strung with festoon lights, and hidden in plain sight lies a shadowy mural by local street artist de rigueur Rone – one of only three permanent works by the artist.

    While the award-winning, cool-climate pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay naturally remain a key draw at Provenance, the winery’s restaurant is a destination in itself. Impressed already by whipsmart service, I devour one of the most cleverly curated and faultlessly executed degustations I’ve had in some time. It’s all prepared in a kitchen that is proudly zero-waste, and committed to providing seasonal, ethical and locally sourced meat and produce under head chef Nate McIver. Think free-range venison served rare with a syrupy red wine jus and a half-moon of neon-orange kosho, shokupan with a deeply savoury duck fat jus (a modern Japanese take on bread and drippings), and a golden potato cake adorned with a colourful confetti of dehydrated nasturtiums and tomato powder, and planted atop a sea urchin emulsion.  

    handcrafted pieces
    Bell’s handcrafted functional pieces on display.

    The complex is home to a coterie of independent businesses, including a gallery, a jeweller, and its latest tenant, ceramicist Elizabeth Bell, drawn here by the building’s “soul”. “There’s so much potential for these buildings to have new life breathed into them,” says Bell, whose studio is housed within the old pump room. “Even people in Geelong don’t know we’re here,” she says. “It’s definitely a destination, but I like that. It has a really calming atmosphere.”  

    A Melbourne transplant, Bell now feels at home in Geelong, which offers something Melbourne didn’t. “If this business was in Melbourne I don’t think it would’ve been as successful,” she notes. “It’s very collaborative in Geelong, and I don’t think you get that as much in Melbourne; you’re a bit more in it for yourself. Here it’s about community over competition.”  

    Elizabeth Bell
    Ceramicist Elizabeth Bell has a store in Fyansford Paper Mill.