Heathcote has evolved into the ultimate eco-escape for foodies

From cabins to canvas, craft distillers to destination dining, Heathcote locals reveal their eco-savvy passions in ways that resonate with those seeking to travel lightly.

Heathcote, on traditional Taungurung Country in Central Victoria, is synonymous with its garnet-hued shiraz, but wine isn’t the only string to its bow. The town itself is sprinkled with heritage buildings from the gold rush era, and beyond that a growing collection of sustainable gastronomy and eco-friendly escapes. Nearby Bendigo, one of only 65 cities in the world recognised as a UNESCO Creative City and Region of Gastronomy, plates up an astonishing calibre of produce, wine and food for its size. Increasingly the entire region is taking up the challenge, though Heathcote in particular shines with its focus on sustainability.

Pink Cliffs GeologicalReserve — The dramatic landscape of Heathcote’s Pink Cliffs Geological Reserve. (Image: Visit Victoria/Emily Goodfrey)

The eco-stays bringing sustainability to Heathcote

Yellow BoxWood’s safari-style tents — Yellow Box Wood’s safari-style tents are nestled on 40 hectares of bushland. (Image: Emily Goodfrey)

Andee and Lisa Davidson spent years working in southern Africa before settling in Heathcote. “We had a vision of how this could be," explains Andee. “We wanted a retreat, but one that was off-grid and environmentally sustainable." Now, at Yellow Box Wood, two luxury safari-style tents are at the heart of 40 hectares of rolling hills and native bush, with kangaroos, wallabies, echidnas, goanna and birdlife aplenty. It’s all solar-powered, wood for the fire is mainly fallen timber, and water is collected on the carport roof. No lack of creature comforts though – en suite with rain shower, espresso coffee maker, comfy seating, wood-burning fire all set to go. There’s also a solar-heated, mineral salt pool in a bush setting, walking tracks, and even a mini bush golf course. On my visit, I put the vision to the test. Cocooned in the plush four-poster bed I can glimpse the stars, while the heater casts a golden glow on the canvas. In the morning, I wake to a blush-pink sunrise, kangaroos feeding and a soundtrack of magpies.

If a tent is not your style, Stephen and Cally Trompp’s carbon-neutral Mt Ida Eco Cabin might entice with its generous deck and farmland views. Inside the cabin, corrugated iron walls as rusty as a shearing shed, gleaming (recycled) floorboards, timber truss ceiling (crafted by Stephen), wood-fired heater and an old-school turntable with a pile of vinyls to spin. It’s fun, and a little boho. “Everything is recycled. The cabin takes maximum advantage of the sun in winter. It’s all solar-powered. Don’t panic, though," says Stephen, “you can still charge your phone and get 4G reception!" Settle into an Adirondack chair on the deck or pedal off on a mountain bike to suss out the wineries.

A taste of Spain in Central Victoria

Another person with a vision is Evan Pritchard at his Three Dams Estate where the wines reflect his deep love of Spain and of Spanish-style grapes, such as tempranillo. Afternoons in the ‘wine shed’ or cantina are matched with music (flamenco is a favourite), Spanish bites from tapas to paella (with Evan on the pans!) and views to Mount Alexander. Sustainability is also a passion. “You don’t need to buy anything. We decided to be off-grid from the start, but it is a lifestyle change," he says. “You need to think about it and be careful." Everything here is recycled, reassembled, refurbished. Evan has an electric car (with solar-powered charger), solar-power for the winery, and even a jaunty little electric tractor/forklift. “I love the idea of all the things you can do using the sun." Sipping a crisp rosado (a Spanish rosé) with Evan in the sunshine, I couldn’t agree more.

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The vineyard redefining sustainable winemaking

Silver Spoon winery — The Silverspoon Estate winery is completely off-grid. (Image: Graham Hosking)

On the other side of Heathcote, Silver Spoon Estate demonstrates sustainability on a more extensive scale. Tracie and Peter Young’s winery, cellar door, award-winning restaurant and their own house are all solar-powered and off the grid. Sustainability is intrinsic to everything they do. The property sprawls across 100 hectares, with 20 hectares under vine – shiraz, viognier, grenache, tempranillo. As the climate has changed, so too has the approach. These are dry-grown vineyards. “We prune for drought. That means lower yields but more intense flavours," says Peter. The fine-dining restaurant offers sweeping views, a wood-burning fire and a deck for languid lunches. Head chef Ben Hong sources regional, sustainable ingredients and weaves estate wines into the menu – think crispy wild mushroom arancini, viognier-infused chicken breast.

Silver Spoon’s award-winning restaurant.

Heathcote’s other hidden gems

Not all local wineries have a cellar door, but I find local treasures at the Heathcote Wine Hub, a petite 1855 timber church in the main street, lovingly returned to life by Karen Robertson and Carey Moncrieff. “Carey is a scrounger," says Karen. “He doesn’t throw a single thing away." He does, however, craft things into something quite special. Heritage floors, light-filtering lancet windows and shelves of regional wines create the perfect ambience for wine tasting. Or order a glass and linger over a cheese platter.

Heathcote is not all wine, of course. Nathan Wheat and partner Vanessa Curtis run Envy Distilling with a committed sustainable ethic – and a serious love of gin. Their small-batch distillery produces grape-based gin, and soon brandy. Distilled water is reused in an ingenious cooling system. All waste is treated on site. They buy excess wine from winemakers to distil and buy recycled barrels. “Distilling with the sun," as Nathan says. Each Envy gin has its own story. Spicy, award-winning The Dry, is designed to capture the region’s dry, rugged nature. Pull up a stool at the bar (reclaimed timbers and tiles, of course), order a Gin Flight, or kick back with a cocktail and let Nathan share his eco journey.

Envy gins — Sample gins at small-batch distillery Envy.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

It’s less than two hours’ drive from Melbourne. The scenic route we take goes past Sunbury, then along a splendid country road through Romsey and the magic, boulder-strewn landscape of Lancefield. Watch for kangaroos on the road!

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Staying there

Go off-grid in style at Yellow Box Wood for glamping or try Mt Ida Eco Cabin for a couple’s weekend hideaway.

Eating there

French dishes at Chauncy — Award-winning French restaurant Chauncy.

At award-winning Chauncy, French chef Louis Naepels and sommelier wife Tess Murray have created a tiny, elegant pocket of rural France. Meticulously restored 1850s sandstone building, sun-drenched dining room, impeccable service, a menu suffused with local flavours and thoughtful wine pairings.

Fodder is both cafe and social hub. Chef Mo Pun and sister Lalita serve classic Aussie breakfast-to-lunch fare, though their Nepalese heritage sneaks through.

Playing there

Sanguine Estate’s cellar door and terrace overlook bucolic vineyards. Its award-winning, dry-grown wines include the distinctive D’Orsa Blanc dessert wine, reflecting the family’s Swiss-Italian heritage. Order a charcuterie board and stay a while. Keep it carbon neutral by cycling some (or all) of the 50-kilometre O’Keefe Rail Trail to Bendigo.

At Bridgeward Grove, learn about the property’s Old Mission Grove heritage olive trees, do a sommelier olive oil tasting, and stock up on sustainably grown olives and oil. Explore the unique landscape, wildflowers and wildlife of pink cliffs geological reserve.

No matter your interests, you’re bound to find a unique and utterly memorable experience along the mighty Murray River.

Along the Murray River lies a network of towns that are at once intertwined and wildly diverse. Linked by the legendary waterway yet strikingly distinct, each has its own personality, pace and collection of experiences you won’t soon forget.

1. On the river

fishermen on Lake Mulwala — Get out onto the pretty Lake Mulwala. (Credit: Visit Victoria)

A visit to the region wouldn’t be complete without a jaunt on the iconic river. If you’re something of an adventurer, Lake Mulwala – an inlet on the Murray – is perennially popular for all kinds of watersports. Glide among ghost gums on a kayak or stand up paddleboard, or pick up the pace by waterskiing or windsurfing.

For a more relaxed (but no less immersive) river experience, hop on board one of the famed paddle steamers. Departing from Echuca Moama, Swan Hill and Yarrawonga Mulwala, these historic boats provide a nostalgic view of the Murray.

2. First Nations culture

Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk, murray river — Wander the Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk.

The river is a meeting place of ancient cultures, home to over 50 First Nations clans and an integral part of their communities, storytelling and way of life.

To learn more about the Traditional Owners, take yourself on a guided stroll through the Wagirra Trail. Situated in Albury/Wiradjuri country, the trail passes through red gum forest, riverside wetlands and the Yindyamarra Sculpture Walk.

Alternatively, visit the Dharnya Centre in the heart of Barmah National Park on Yorta Yorta country. The centre tells the history and stories of the Yorta Yorta people, offering guided walking tours and cruises.

3. Delicious eats

the Mildura Boat House — Savour a relaxed riverside meal at Mildura Boat House.

For a representative taste of the Murray’s epicurean highlights, a few destinations are well worth your time (and appetite).

Opa in Echuca is a local staple, serving up authentic and bold Greek dishes in lively surrounds. Greek not your thing? The twin towns of Echuca Moama have numerous top-notch drinking and dining spots to choose from and an ever-evolving food scene.

In Albury, the River Deck Cafe is perched right on the river, delivering scenic vistas and a vibrant daytime menu. Expect lemon meringue waffles or Green Goddess smashed avo for breakfast, or a zippy duck salad with Southeast Asian flavours for lunch. For more waterfront dining options, head to Mildura Boathouse. Enjoy iconic views and a modern Australian menu focused on local producers and wines.

4. Hiking and biking trails

two people on bikes at Lake Boga — Discover the Murray Region on two wheels. (Credit: Ewen Bell)

The best ways to experience the Murray’s surrounding landscapes are on foot or by bike. Luckily, plenty of well-marked trails take you through the diverse scenery.

The Mildura Riverfront has a shared path for both walkers and cyclists, connecting the town centre with a string of parks and lookouts. The path lets you take in the entire town and its distinctive terrain at a leisurely pace, and is relatively flat throughout.

For a more challenging experience, head to the Huon Hill Parklands or Nail Can Hill Reserve in Albury Wodonga. Both feature a varied network of bushwalking and mountain biking trails through undulating terrain.

5. Best views along The Murray

swan at wonga wetlands in the murray — Spot the birdlife at Wonga Wetlands. (Credit: Visit Albury Wodonga)

The Murray region is perhaps unsurprisingly a prime destination for epic vistas. The Wonga Wetlands just outside Albury are an aquatic feast for the eyes, a winding web of billabongs and lagoons. Take a stroll through the tranquil landscape and see if you can spot one of the more than 170 bird species living within.

Stop by Moama Beach at sunset to catch the dazzling display. Vivid hues of pink, amber and gold flare against a backdrop of river red gum trees and are reflected in the river’s glassy waters.

Head away from the Murray itself, 15 mins from Albury Wodonga, for stunning mountain views at Lake Hume. Or head to Gunbower National Park, a picturesque place boasting a diverse wonderland of waterbirds, wildlife and aquatic plants.

6. Art and culture

People viewing art at Murray Art Museum. — Immerse yourself in art at the MAMA, Albury. (Tourism Australia)

The region’s diverse mix of galleries, museums and cultural hubs provides a window into its past and present.

One of the most prominent is Murray Art Museum Albury (MAMA), which has a rotating roster of contemporary exhibitions. The Burrajara Gallery is another Albury gem, with a powerful collection of works from local First Nations artists.

There are several smaller museums and galleries scattered across Echuca Moama and Mildura reflecting the artistic depth of the Murray. Popular picks include The Foundry Arts Space and Customs House Gallery in Echuca Moama, and the Arts Centre, Riverfront Gallery and NAP Contemporary in Mildura.

7. Murray Region Events

band on stage at Riverboats Music Festival — Time your trip around one fo the regions live music events. (Credit: Riverboats Music Festival)

Each year, the Murray hosts events as unique and characterful as the region itself.

The Massive Murray Paddle takes place every November, a 415-kilometre, five-day river paddle raising money for local charities. Whether you take part in a canoe, kayak, stand up paddleboard or boat, or watch from the riverbanks, you’ll be in for a memorable experience.

If you’re a music lover, you’re in luck throughout the year. In summer, plan a trip for Riverboats Music Festival. And in the cooler months, head to the Echuca Moama Winter Blues Festival for four days of performances across different venues.

8. Best stays along The Murray

the Cozy Dome at Charm Lodge accommodation — Find unique stays by the river or in the countryside.

Throughout your busy few days of exploring, you’ll need a comfortable spot to rest.

Echuca Moama Riverside Holiday Park is right on the river and has gorgeous views. Pick from riverfront and pet-friendly lagoon cabins, or set up camp at one of the powered sites set among native bush. Or head into the countryside to stay in the quaint glamping or lodge options of Charm Lodge.

Alternatively, treat yourself to a night or two at The Sebel Yarrawonga Silverwoods, which has stylish modern rooms and luxe amenities. There’s a heated infinity pool, day spa and an on-site restaurant doing elevated fare with local produce.