With up to 70cm of fresh snowfall forecasted over the coming week, here’s why Falls Creek is the place to be this winter.
I’m soaking up the tingling sun on my cheeks, fingers cocooned in marshmallow-like gloves and the chairlift’s cool metal humming beneath me, when the man beside me breaks the silence.
“Pretty damn good day to be out," he says.
We eye the skiers and snowboarders sketching arcs across the mountain below us, a perfect bluebird sky completing the snowglobe scene. Some are otter-sliding through pillows of powder; others panther-pouncing off steep drops. No matter the skill level, it seems everyone is here to have a good time.
It turns out this is my fellow chairlift rider’s 15th time visiting Falls Creek, Victoria’s largest ski resort and Australia’s largest ski-in, ski-out village. With its compact village, cafes and snow-dusted lodges, it offers a cosy alpine feel that many visitors compare to small European ski villages – along with a variety of terrain and athlete-approved wellness facilities. I’ve only been here for a few hours so far, but I can very easily imagine myself returning, too.
With a hefty dump of overnight snowfall predicted for this Sunday (up to 35cm) followed by more of the fluffy white stuff over the coming week, there’s never been a better time to experience this good-vibes-guaranteed ski resort in Victoria’s High Country. I’m not suggesting you should call in sick… but if you suddenly develop a serious case of powder fever, who am I to argue?
Falls Creek is looking more magical by the day. This cosy alpine village has snow-dusted lodges, ski-in, ski-out slopes, mountain dining and plenty of places to warm up after a day on the mountain.
A true ski-in, ski-out village with a Euro twang
Falls Creek guarantees a good time for every ski level. (Credit: Eleanor Edström)
Unlike many Australian ski areas where you stay in a town below the mountain, much of Falls Creek’s accommodation is right on the slopes. We’re lucky to be bedding down at St. Falls Resort, which occupies prime real estate directly at the base of Halley’s Comet, the high-speed chairlift that carries skiers from the village plaza to the main resort bowl.
Every morning, we wake to views of families and serious snowboarders snaking their way down the bottom of Wombat’s Ramble, a cruisy snow-gum-lined trail that holds the title of Australia’s longest green run. It’s a quick zip up into our ski gear before we’re stepping outside the lodge, clipping into our skis and sliding straight into the chairlift entry within minutes. Who knew skiing could be so fuss-free?
Break up the skiing with a drink at Cloud 9. (Credit: Eleanor Edström)
St. Falls Resort overlooks the base of Halley's Comet chairlift. (Credit: Eleanor Edström)
The ski resort has terrain for all levels.(Credit: Eleanor Edström)
The resort’s ski-in, ski-out layout, where pedestrian paths take priority over private cars, feels more akin to the alpine villages of Europe than a typical Australian ski destination. Tiered stone-and-timber chalets echo the architecture of traditional resorts in the Dolomites and Swiss Alps, while cosy, low-key cafes such as Ory’s add to the village’s relaxed mountain charm. Award-winning boutique hotel Astra also brings a distinctly European feel, with its exquisite wine and dining experiences (more on this later) and toasty fireplace-lit lounge and restaurant.
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Hot tubs, gyms and saunas galore
Soak in the mineral-infused hot tubs at boutique Nelse Lodge. (Credit: Eleanor Edström)
Some of the country’s best athletes (including AFL team Collingwood) come to Falls Creek for altitude training, meaning the resort town is chock-a-block with excellent wellness and recovery facilities – and lots of them don’t require you being a guest of the accommodation to book a session.
After our first full day out skiing, we eagerly slip into the 10-person sauna at Nelse Lodge before completing the contrast therapy as we dash into the outdoor chill, then shortly sink into the mineral-infused outdoor plunge pools. It’s seriously the best way to thank sore muscles (hello calves!) after a full day of skiing. The lodge also has a boutique gym for cross-training and offers single and multi-day passes. A fireside cocktail in the cosy restaurant afterwards never hurts, either.
If you prefer a more private place to soak, St. Falls Resort offers a handful of apartments with their own open-air hot tubs for guests to use anytime throughout the day or night. They are best enjoyed with a glass of wine or beer in hand, naturally.
Breathtaking High Country scenery
Rockey Valley Lake is the country’s highest significant body of water. (Credit: Eleanor Edström)
I can’t be the only one who had no idea Falls Creek overlooks an enormous and absolutely stunning blue lake?! As we crest a hill to zigzag down our first run of the trip, Rockey Valley Lake gleams in the afternoon sun like polished, sapphire-tinted glass. At 1600 metres, it’s the highest significant body of water in Australia and an utterly unexpected delight.
Then there’s the twisted, multicolour-trunked snow gum forests, an iconic feature of the Australian Alps. You can soak up all the views from various points on the slopes, as well as from the chairlifts.
Exceptional mountain dining
The underground wine cellar at Astra harbours at least one thousand bottles. (Credit: Eleanor Edström)
Ski-mountain food doesn’t always have the best reputation, but Falls Creek proves otherwise.
At Astra, we follow passionate sommelier Jeronimo Arredondo down to a hidden underground wine cellar for an intimate private dining experience. The ambient space, filled with a thousand or so coveted bottles from the world’s top wine regions, opened to the public a couple of years ago and is the passion project of Astra owners Seumas Dawes and Rosy Seaton.
Jeronimo talks us through a cool-climate sauvignon blanc from nearby Beechworth and a rare northern Italian pinot noir that pairs perfectly with our roast pumpkin entree. From sharing fascinating wine family histories to showing us a $3000 bottle from Bordeaux, Jeronimo brings the world of winemaking to life in rich detail.
For a more casual dining affair, Huski Kitchen is our top pick. Each and every dish that arrives at our table is light, bright and bursting with south-east Asian flavours. The popping papaya salad makes for a zesty start, while the wagyu dumplings bobbing in chilli oil and sesame sauce are equally lovely. But it’s the butter-soft barramundi bathed in a ginger soy broth that is the winner for me – best enjoyed with a side of the charred Brussels sprouts doused in lap cheong and brown butter.
And at St Falls’ 1550 restaurant, the crispy-skin salmon with broccoli is delicious as it is fuelling and tofu laksa is soul-soothing. Warm, unintrusive service makes the visit all the more enjoyable.
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Fun for all levels
Falls Creek caters for beginners through to advanced skiers and snowboarders.
It’s been three or four years since I last went skiing, and a 2.5-hour private lesson is the perfect way to regain my confidence. We’re lucky to have the friendly Jeremy O’Sullivan, an ex-Paralympic guide who’s been teaching skiing for 12 years, as our instructor.
We kick off with some green runs so Jeremy can observe our technique and provide individually tailored feedback. For my friend Zara and her boyfriend, it’s learning to stand up a little straighter for more control. For my boyfriend Matt, it’s pushing down and turning into the foot “like a medicine cap". And for me, it’s letting the inner knee and foot rotate for smoother turns. After a series of fun drills and practice rounds with continued feedback after each, we are all feeling so much more confident. The lesson becomes one of my favourite parts of the whole trip.
The great thing about Falls Creek is that it truly caters for all levels, particularly for beginners and intermediates looking to upskill. Of the 92 downhill ski runs, around 60 per cent are suited to intermediates. The resort also boasts extensive cross-country terrain, offering 65 kilometres of groomed cross-country trails.
Art on the slopes
The new sculpture Flower of the Alpine Sun by Giovanni Veronesi is revealed at Falls Creek. (Credit: Catherine Best)
Falls Creek has a brand-new $750,000 attraction: Flower of the Alpine Sun. The spectacular 10-metre-high sculpture by Milan-born Australian artist Giovanni Veronesi was revealed at the start of this year’s ski season and features an interactive, walk-through platform. It’s one of the highest-altitude artworks in Australia, and you’ll find it near Cloud 9 up on the slopes.
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Eleanor Edström is Australian Traveller’s Associate Editor. Previously a staff writer at Signature Luxury Travel & Style and Vacations & Travel magazines, she's a curious wordsmith with a penchant for conservation, adventure, the arts and design. She discovered her knack for storytelling much earlier, however – penning mermaid sagas in glitter ink at age seven. Proof that her spelling has since improved, she holds an honours degree in English and philosophy, and a French diploma from the University of Sydney. Off duty, you’ll find her pirouetting between Pilates and ballet classes, or hunting down Sydney's cosiest cafes.
Winding down in the Yarra Valley, where ‘work from home’ becomes ‘work from wine country’.
Steam from my morning coffee curls gently into the cool valley air, mist-veiled vineyards stretch out in neat rows below me. Magpies warble from trees, and the morning’s quiet carries the soft bleating of lambs from a nearby paddock. Midweek in the Yarra Valley has its own rhythm. It’s slower, quieter, with more empty tables at cafes and cellar doors, and walking trails I can claim all to myself. It’s as if the entire region takes a deep breath once the weekend crowd leaves.
You’ll find walking trails are less crowded during the week. (Image: Visit Victoria)
I haven’t come here for a holiday, but to do a little work somewhere other than my home office, where I spend too much time hunched over my desk. Deadlines still loom, meetings still happen, but with flexible work evolving from ‘work from home’ to ‘work from anywhere’, I’m swapping the view of my front yard to the vineyards.
A quiet afternoon at Yarra Valley Dairy
Wine time at Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can enjoy a toastie or bagel in the cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)
With the Yarra Valley just over an hour from the CBD, many Melburnians could drive here in their lunch break. I arrive late in the afternoon and am delighted to discover the Yarra Valley Dairy still open. On weekends, I’ve seen queues spilling out the door, but today there’s only one other couple inside. There’s no need to rush to secure a table; instead I browse the little store, shelves stacked with chutneys, spices, artisan biscuits and gorgeous crockery that would look right at home in my kitchen. It’s hard not to buy the lot.
A cheese tasting plate at Yarra Valley Dairy.
I order a coffee and a small cheese platter, though the dairy has a full menu, and choose a wooden table with bentwood chairs by a wide window. The space feels part farm shed, part cosy café: corrugated iron ceiling, walls painted in muted tones and rustic furniture.
Outside, cows meander toward milking sheds. If pressed for time, there’s the option of quick cheese tastings – four samples for five dollars in five minutes – but today, I’m in no rush. I sip slowly, watching a grey sky settle over the paddock. Less than an hour ago I was hunched over my home-office desk, and now my racing mind has slowed to match the valley’s pace.
Checking in for vineyard views at Balgownie Estate
Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate has views across the vines.
As my car rolls to a stop at Balgownie Estate, I’m quietly excited, and curious to see if my plan to work and play comes off. I’ve chosen a suite with a spacious living area and a separate bedroom so I can keep work away from a good night’s sleep. I could have booked a cosy cottage, complete with open fireplace, a comfy couch and a kettle for endless cups of tea, but as I am still here to get some work done, I opt for a place that takes care of everything. Dinner is served in Restaurant 1309, as is breakfast.
Oysters pair perfectly with a crisp white at Restaurant 1309.
On my first evening, instead of the usual walk about my neighbourhood, I stroll through the estate at an unhurried pace. There’s no need to rush – someone else is preparing my dinner after all. The walking trails offer beautiful sunsets, and it seems mobs of kangaroos enjoy the view, too. Many appear, grazing lazily on the hillside.
I wake to the call of birds and, after breakfast, with the mist still lingering over the vineyards, I watch two hot-air balloons silently drift above clouds. Perched on a hill, Balgownie Estate sits above the mist, leaving the valley below veiled white.
Spotting the locals on an evening walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Exploring the Yarra Valley on two wheels
Swap your home office for a view of the vineyards. (Image: Visit Victoria/Cormac Hanrahan)
Perhaps because the Yarra Valley is relatively close to where I live, I’ve never considered exploring the area any way other than by car or on foot. And with a fear of heights, a hot-air balloon is firmly off the table. But when I discover I can hop on two wheels from the estate and cycle into Yarra Glen, I quickly realise it’s the perfect way to step away from my laptop and experience a different side of the region.
COG Bike offers pedal-assist e-bikes, and while the bike trail and paths into town aren’t particularly hilly, having an extra bit of ‘oomph’ means I can soak up the surroundings. Those lambs I heard calling early in the morning? I now find them at the paddock fence, sniffing my hands, perhaps hoping for food. Cows idle nearby, and at a fork in the bike path I turn left toward town.
It’s still morning, and the perfect time for a coffee break at The Vallie Store. If it were the afternoon, I’d likely turn right, in the direction of four wineries with cellar doors. The ride is about 15 kilometres return, but don’t let that put you off. Staying off the highway, the route takes you along quiet backroads where you catch glimpses of local life – farmers on tractors, weathered sheds, rows of vines and the kind of peaceful countryside you don’t see from the main road.
A detour to the Dandenong Ranges
The iconic Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas Day.
The beauty of basing myself in the Yarra Valley is how close everything feels. In barely half an hour I’m in the Dandenong Ranges, swapping vineyards for towering mountain ash and fern-filled gullies. The small villages of Olinda and Sassafras burst with cosy teahouses, antique stores and boutiques selling clothing and handmade body care items.
I’m drawn to RJ Hamer Arboretum – Latin for ‘a place for trees’. Having grown up among tall trees, I’ve always taken comfort in their presence, so this visit feels like a return of sorts. A stroll along the trails offers a choice: wide open views across patchwork paddocks below, or shaded paths that lead you deeper into the quiet hush of the peaceful forest.
The following day, I settle into a quiet corner on the balcony of Paradise Valley Hotel in Clematis and soon hear Puffing Billy’s whistle and steady chuff as the steam train climbs towards town. Puffing Billy is one of Australia’s most beloved steam trains, running through the Dandenong Ranges on a narrow-gauge track. It’s famous for its open carriages where passengers can sit with their legs hanging over the sides as the train chugs through the forest. This is the perfect spot to wave to those on the train.
After my midweek break, I find my inbox still full and my to-do list not in the least shrunken, just shifted from one task to another. But I return to my home office feeling lighter, clearer and with a smug satisfaction I’d stolen back a little time for myself. A midweek wind-down made all the difference.
A traveller’s checklist
Staying there
Balgownie Estate offers everything from cellar door tastings to spa treatments and fine dining – all without leaving the property.
Playing there
Visit the TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)
Wander through Alowyn Gardens, including a stunning wisteria tunnel, then explore the collection of contemporary artworks at TarraWarra Museum of Art. Cycle the Yarra Valley with COG Bike to visit local wineries and cellar doors.
