With up to 70cm of fresh snowfall forecasted over the coming week, here’s why Falls Creek is the place to be this winter.

I’m soaking up the tingling sun on my cheeks, fingers cocooned in marshmallow-like gloves and the chairlift’s cool metal humming beneath me, when the man beside me breaks the silence.

“Pretty damn good day to be out," he says.

We eye the skiers and snowboarders sketching arcs across the mountain below us, a perfect bluebird sky completing the snowglobe scene. Some are otter-sliding through pillows of powder; others panther-pouncing off steep drops. No matter the skill level, it seems everyone is here to have a good time.

It turns out this is my fellow chairlift rider’s 15th time visiting Falls Creek, Victoria’s largest ski resort and Australia’s largest ski-in, ski-out village. With its compact village, cafes and snow-dusted lodges, it offers a cosy alpine feel that many visitors compare to small European ski villages – along with a variety of terrain and athlete-approved wellness facilities. I’ve only been here for a few hours so far, but I can very easily imagine myself returning, too.

With a hefty dump of overnight snowfall predicted for this Sunday (up to 35cm) followed by more of the fluffy white stuff over the coming week, there’s never been a better time to experience this good-vibes-guaranteed ski resort in Victoria’s High Country. I’m not suggesting you should call in sick… but if you suddenly develop a serious case of powder fever, who am I to argue?

A true ski-in, ski-out village with a Euro twang

Unlike many Australian ski areas where you stay in a town below the mountain, much of Falls Creek’s accommodation is right on the slopes. We’re lucky to be bedding down at St. Falls Resort, which occupies prime real estate directly at the base of Halley’s Comet, the high-speed chairlift that carries skiers from the village plaza to the main resort bowl.

Every morning, we wake to views of families and serious snowboarders snaking their way down the bottom of Wombat’s Ramble, a cruisy snow-gum-lined trail that holds the title of Australia’s longest green run. It’s a quick zip up into our ski gear before we’re stepping outside the lodge, clipping into our skis and sliding straight into the chairlift entry within minutes. Who knew skiing could be so fuss-free?

The resort’s ski-in, ski-out layout, where pedestrian paths take priority over private cars, feels more akin to the alpine villages of Europe than a typical Australian ski destination. Tiered stone-and-timber chalets echo the architecture of traditional resorts in the Dolomites and Swiss Alps, while cosy, low-key cafes such as Ory’s add to the village’s relaxed mountain charm. Award-winning boutique hotel Astra also brings a distinctly European feel, with its exquisite wine and dining experiences (more on this later) and toasty fireplace-lit lounge and restaurant.

Hot tubs, gyms and saunas galore

Some of the country’s best athletes (including AFL team Collingwood) come to Falls Creek for altitude training, meaning the resort town is chock-a-block with excellent wellness and recovery facilities – and lots of them don’t require you being a guest of the accommodation to book a session.  

After our first full day out skiing, we eagerly slip into the 10-person sauna at Nelse Lodge before completing the contrast therapy as we dash into the outdoor chill, then shortly sink into the mineral-infused outdoor plunge pools. It’s seriously the best way to thank sore muscles (hello calves!) after a full day of skiing. The lodge also has a boutique gym for cross-training and offers single and multi-day passes. A fireside cocktail in the cosy restaurant afterwards never hurts, either. 

If you prefer a more private place to soak, St. Falls Resort offers a handful of apartments with their own open-air hot tubs for guests to use anytime throughout the day or night. They are best enjoyed with a glass of wine or beer in hand, naturally.

Breathtaking High Country scenery

I can’t be the only one who had no idea Falls Creek overlooks an enormous and absolutely stunning blue lake?! As we crest a hill to zigzag down our first run of the trip, Rockey Valley Lake gleams in the afternoon sun like polished, sapphire-tinted glass. At 1600 metres, it’s the highest significant body of water in Australia and an utterly unexpected delight.

Then there’s the twisted, multicolour-trunked snow gum forests, an iconic feature of the Australian Alps. You can soak up all the views from various points on the slopes, as well as from the chairlifts.

Exceptional mountain dining

Ski-mountain food doesn’t always have the best reputation, but Falls Creek proves otherwise.

At Astra, we follow passionate sommelier Jeronimo Arredondo down to a hidden underground wine cellar for an intimate private dining experience. The ambient space, filled with a thousand or so coveted bottles from the world’s top wine regions, opened to the public a couple of years ago and is the passion project of Astra owners Seumas Dawes and Rosy Seaton.

Jeronimo talks us through a cool-climate sauvignon blanc from nearby Beechworth and a rare northern Italian pinot noir that pairs perfectly with our roast pumpkin entree. From sharing fascinating wine family histories to showing us a $3000 bottle from Bordeaux, Jeronimo brings the world of winemaking to life in rich detail.

For a more casual dining affair, Huski Kitchen is our top pick. Each and every dish that arrives at our table is light, bright and bursting with south-east Asian flavours. The popping papaya salad makes for a zesty start, while the wagyu dumplings bobbing in chilli oil and sesame sauce are equally lovely. But it’s the butter-soft barramundi bathed in a ginger soy broth that is the winner for me – best enjoyed with a side of the charred Brussels sprouts doused in lap cheong and brown butter.

And at St Falls’ 1550 restaurant, the crispy-skin salmon with broccoli is delicious as it is fuelling and tofu laksa is soul-soothing. Warm, unintrusive service makes the visit all the more enjoyable.

Fun for all levels

It’s been three or four years since I last went skiing, and a 2.5-hour private lesson is the perfect way to regain my confidence. We’re lucky to have the friendly Jeremy O’Sullivan, an ex-Paralympic guide who’s been teaching skiing for 12 years, as our instructor.

We kick off with some green runs so Jeremy can observe our technique and provide individually tailored feedback. For my friend Zara and her boyfriend, it’s learning to stand up a little straighter for more control. For my boyfriend Matt, it’s pushing down and turning into the foot “like a medicine cap". And for me, it’s letting the inner knee and foot rotate for smoother turns. After a series of fun drills and practice rounds with continued feedback after each, we are all feeling so much more confident. The lesson becomes one of my favourite parts of the whole trip.

The great thing about Falls Creek is that it truly caters for all levels, particularly for beginners and intermediates looking to upskill. Of the 92 downhill ski runs, around 60 per cent are suited to intermediates. The resort also boasts extensive cross-country terrain, offering 65 kilometres of groomed cross-country trails.

Art on the slopes

Falls Creek has a brand-new $750,000 attraction: Flower of the Alpine Sun. The spectacular 10-metre-high sculpture by Milan-born Australian artist Giovanni Veronesi was revealed at the start of this year’s ski season and features an interactive, walk-through platform. It’s one of the highest-altitude artworks in Australia, and you’ll find it near Cloud 9 up on the slopes.