Review: QT Melbourne

hero media
A new boutique hotel in an old Melbourne cinema is full of surprises.

Forget cinematic excellence, the one thing I remember most about the old Greater Union cinema in Russell Street is the damn seats. With a low-slung design that finished midway up your back, they would have to go down as the most uncomfortable cinema seats I’ve ever had the misfortune of spending an hour and 25 in.

 

When the cinema closed in 2013, I was happy to see it go.

 

Today, the stark, modernist 1970s building that once housed these poorly designed pews is barely recognisable from its former self thanks to a super-glam overhaul by the QT hotel chain. And I’m happy to say, there’s not an uncomfortable piece of furniture to be found.

The details

Where: QT Melbourne: 133 Russell Street, Melbourne, Vic

What to expect

Since opening in September 2016, QT Melbourne has brought some much-needed personality to the city’s boutique hotel scene. Known for its quirkiness, QT Hotels seems befitting of a city like Sydney – where you’ll find the flagship – but I wasn’t convinced that its cheeky, OTT brashness would translate here in Melbourne.

accommodation Melbourne hoteThe gel-topped beds at QT Melbourne have a reputation that precedes them review
Public spaces create a sense of drama. QT Melbourne.

But when it comes to first impressions, QT Melbourne has a particularly strong game.

 

For a start, you can’t miss those shiny copper-capped entrance doors, even from half a block away. Then there’s the immaculate, designer-clad bell staff (or ‘Directors of Chaos’, as they’re known here).

 

On arrival, we’re greeted outside by two perfectly coiffed young women. Their flawless make-up and megawatt smiles set the scene for what is to be a suitably theatrical hotel experience.

 

Inside the lobby, the windows and ceilings soar and the staff look like extras from a Robert Palmer video. The moody-glam décor and sweeping, brass-lined staircase add to the mounting sense of drama. Check-in is seamless and the staff well drilled.

 

As we step into the low-lit lift en route to our room, we’re greeted by seductive coos from an anonymous woman speaking in French. Each lift plays a different voice-over in various languages.

 

QT quirky? You betcha.

 

While the building itself has been redesigned by Sydney-based architect Angelo Candalepas, the public spaces and 188 rooms have been conceived by interior designer Nic Graham and architect and designer Shelley Indyk respectively.

The room

The rooms themselves are well proportioned, with good natural light and wonderful views of the city’s rooftops and skyline. They exude a calm sophistication.

 

I’m told the gel-topped beds here have a reputation that precedes them, and after a night spent luxuriating, I’m soon calculating the financial practicalities of getting one myself.

accommodation Melbourne hoteThe gel-topped beds at QT Melbourne have a reputation that precedes them review
The gel-topped beds at QT Melbourne have a reputation that precedes them

Kitted out with black steel, slate tiling and a retractable rippled glass privacy screen, the adjoining bathroom is functional and discreet. The aromatic (Malin+Goetz) amenities are a nice touch.

 

The mini-bar is no afterthought (think high-end snacks, wacky gifts and craft spirits) and I’m always a fan of a portable Bose Bluetooth speaker in hotel rooms (it’s time for hoteliers everywhere to ditch dated plug-in speakers).

 

After an afternoon nap on that bed, we venture down to check out the rest of the hotel.

 

On the ground floor there’s a gift shop, a cafe with an amazing patisserie, a Japanese-Korean laneway bar called Hot Sauce and, next door, a shop that sells handcrafted Japanese knives.

accommodation Melbourne hoteThe gel-topped beds at QT Melbourne have a reputation that precedes them review
Pascale Bar & Grill shows off QT Melbourne’s quirky personality.

On the first floor, there’s fine dining restaurant Pascale Bar & Grill with chef Paul Easson at the helm.

 

Upstairs, the rooftop bar shows us exactly how rooftops should be done and I have to admit that, yes, QT does have a thing or two to teach Melbourne about its boutique hotel scene.

The verdict

The arrival of QT adds a big dose of personality to Melbourne’s top-end hotel landscape. With excellent bars and dining, it’s as much a coup for locals as it is for visitors.

 

Score: 4/5
We rated: The unashamed glamour and extroversion of the place, the wow-factor of the rooftop and the supremely comfortable bed.
We’d change: The gym. With small proportions and no water or towels on offer, it felt like an afterthought.

 

All AT reviews are conducted anonymously and our writers pay their own way – so we experience exactly what you would.

 

This luxe trawler tour is redefining Victoria’s seafood experience

Victoria’s ‘mussel capital’ is the source of exceptional shellfish used by top chefs far and wide. Step aboard a beautifully refurbished trawler to see how these plump and juicy bivalves are sustainably cultivated.

A curtain is slowly winched from the placid, teal waters just off Portarlington , like a floating garland beside our boat. The ropes heave with blue mussels, the star attraction of our tour. But as we reach to pluck our own, it’s quickly clear they’re not alone; a mass of weird and wonderful creatures has colonised the ropes, turning them into a living tapestry. ‘Fairy’ oysters, jelly-like sea squirts, and tiny, wriggling skeleton shrimp all inhabit this underwater ecosystem.

We prize our bivalve bounty from the ropes, and minutes later the mussels arrive split on a platter. The plump orange morsels are served raw, ready to be spritzed with wedges of lemon and a lick of chilli as we gaze out over the bay. They’re briny, tender and faintly sweet. “This wasn’t originally part of the tour,” explains Connie Trathen, who doubles as the boat’s cook, deckhand and guide. “But a chef [who came onboard] wanted to taste the mussels raw first, and it’s now become one of the key features.”

A humble trawler turned Hamptons-style dreamboat

inspecting bivalve bounty from the ropes
Inspecting the bounty. (Image: Visit Victoria/Hannyn Shiggins)

It’s a crisp, calm winter’s day, and the sun is pouring down upon Valerie, a restored Huon pine workhorse that was first launched in January 1980. In a previous life she trawled the turbulent Bass Strait. These days she takes jaunts into Port Phillip Bay under the helm of Lance Wiffen, a fourth-generation Bellarine farmer, and the owner of Portarlington Mussel Tours . While Lance has been involved in the fishing industry for 30-plus years, the company’s tour boat only debuted in 2023.

holding Portarlington mussels
See how these plump and juicy bivalves are sustainably cultivated.

It took more than three years to transform the former shark trawler into a dreamy, Hamptons-esque vessel, with little expense spared. Think muted green suede banquettes, white-washed walls, Breton-striped bench cushions, hardwood tables, bouquets of homegrown dahlias, and woollen blankets sourced from Waverley Mills, Australia’s oldest working textile mill. It’s intimate, too, welcoming 12 guests at most. And yet there’s nothing pretentious about the experience – just warm, down-to-earth Aussie hospitality.

As we cruise out, we crack open a bottle of local bubbles and nibble on the most beautifully curated cheese platter, adorned with seashells and grey saltbush picked from the water’s edge that very morning. Australasian gannets soar overhead, and I’m told it’s not uncommon for guests to spot the odd seal, pod of dolphins, or even the occasional little penguin.

The sustainable secret behind Victoria’s best mussels

blue mussels off Portarlington
Blue mussels sourced just off Portarlington.

Connie and Lance both extol the virtues of mussels. They’re delicious. A lean source of protein and packed with omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin B12, iron, selenium, and zinc. They’re cooked in a flash (Connie steams our fresh harvest with cider and onion jam). And they’re also widely regarded as one of the most sustainable foods in the world.

Portarlington mussels with lemon and chilli
Mussels served with lemon and chilli.

“Aquaculture is [often] seen as destructive, so a lot of our guests are really surprised about how environmentally friendly and sustainable our industry is,” Lance says. “[Our mussels] would filter 1.4 billion litres of water a day,” he adds, explaining how mussels remove excess nitrogen and phosphorus from the water. “And through biomineralisation, we lock carbon into mussel shells.”

a hand holding a Portarlington mussel
Mussels are a sustainable food.

Despite their glowing list of accolades, these molluscs have long been seen as the oysters’ poorer cousins. “It was a really slow start,” explains Lance, who says that in the early days of his career, “you could not sell mussels in Victoria”.

But word has slowly caught on. Chefs as globally acclaimed as Attica’s Ben Shewry and even René Redzepi of Noma, Denmark, have travelled to these very waters just to try the shellfish at the source, sharing only the highest praise, and using Lance’s mussels in their restaurants.

guests sampling Portarlington mussels onboard
Sampling the goods onboard. (Image: Visit Victoria/Hannyn Shiggins)

According to Lance there’s one obvious reason why the cool depths of Portarlington outshine other locations for mussel farming. “The water quality is second to none,” he says, noting how other regions are frequently rocked by harvest closures due to poor water quality. “We grow, without a doubt, some of the best shellfish in the world.” And with Lance’s bold claims backed up by some of the industry’s greatest names, perhaps it won’t be much longer until more Aussies uncover the appeal of Portarlington’s mussels.