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This is the best Aussie city to visit in winter – it’s even better than Hobart

Credit: Visit Victoria/ Ray Reyes

Come winter, Melbourne doesn’t hibernate – it elevates. Here’s how to make the most of this city’s cool-weather culture.

Melbourne wins winter

Look, many of our cities are good contenders for a winter escape. Hobart turns hot when the weather turns cold – with our southernmost city laying on the art, festivals and embracing hand-knitted beanies paired with weather-resistant jackets worthy of Everest’s Dead Zone.

Canberra’s enviable proximity to snowfields has an undeniable pull for quick, city-to-snow transitions. Meanwhile, “Winter?" says Darwin and Broome. Nah, we don’t do that. What about just hot and dry, instead of hot and wet? Also great, if your chills are multiplying.

And while Sydney has my heart, its needy dependence on sunshine and mild temperatures, is frankly, a bit embarrassing. Nobody knows what to do in Sydney when the mercury sinks below 16°C. Every year, it’s as if the arrival of winter is a complete and utter surprise.

Dine by candlelight at Spaghetti Club
Dine by candlelight at Spaghetti Club. (Credit: MAMAS Dining Group)

But Melbourne? Melbourne never lets a bit of weather get in the way of a good time. It’s a cultural thing as much as it’s stitched into the city’s built-environment and the population’s psyche. Conditions on Collins Street can mirror the Arctic tundra and Melburnians will just get on. Sure, life will angle toward the outdoors when the weather suits, but temperate days are a nice-to-have, not a requirement for living merrily.

Street art at Swan St in Richmond
Street art in Richmond awaits those willing to explore outside in the winter. (Credit: Visit Victoria/ Jesse Hisco)

So, we do declare, hands-down (but with Hobart hot on its heels – also the location of one of my most memorable trips), Melbourne wins winter. It’s the ideal mid-year minibreak because there’s so much to do. With everything from art exhibitions and events to cosy fireside pubs, ultra-cool listening bars, design-led hotels and adorable, wine-adjacent towns waiting just beyond the city limits, there is something to delight at every intersection of your interests. It’s a place to relish winter, not just hibernate through it. So if you’re looking for a mid-winter reset, don’t think twice about booking that sale flight to the Victorian capital.

Melbourne restaurants you need to visit in winter

Melbourne is a food-loving city. Maybe it even has more gourmands per capita than any other Aussie city. We’ll never know for sure (so relax, Adelaide, we see you, too). But we can be sure that there is no shortage of great restaurants, from hip new places to long-lived icons on the city’s dining scene. Add these to your itinerary.

Frenchie

Two people dining at Frenchie in Melbourne
Frenchie is a laneway hit that will satisfy on even the coldest evening. (Credit: Griffin Simm)

Bucking all trends of French fare being high-and-mighty fine-dining, this laneway hit is all nouveau bistro style with rambunctious energy and a truly disruptive ‘everything $14’ classic menu. It takes walk-ins and is open for lunch and dinner until midnight – because the party doesn’t stop just because it’s a bit chilly.

France-Soir

From new a Frenchie to an old classic, France-Soir is a Melbourne institution that has been servicing the city with well-put-together dishes of steak tartare and bouef bourguignon for 40 years. It’s a settle-in-er, so take your time and linger over a post-dinner cognac.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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Spaghetti Club

Interiors of Spaghetti Club in Melbourne
Nab a cosy booth at Spaghetti Club and enjoy the carb-heavy menu with wine. (Credit: Salt House)

Melbourne knows Italian and this easy-going trattoria in Richmond with a proud nonna-core culture proves the point. It’s all good pasta, home-style vibes and affable service with Sicilian roots.

Melbourne’s listening bars are the perfect winter activity

Vinyl culture is strong in Melbourne and the city has the record (quite literally) of having more record stores per capita than any other city in the world. Yes, the world. So it tracks that listening bars are a thing here.

Bar Selecta

This Hawthorne listening bar has taken directly from the Tokyo playbook with dim-lit moods and vinyl grooves. There are well-mixed cocktails, lots of sake, BYO vinyl Sundays and other themed nights.

Waxflower

A bit of everything, Waxflower is a very Melbourne café by day, transforming into a Euro-style wine bar cross Japanese listening bar in the evening. Slide in here for lunch to aperitivo and evening listening sessions.

Does Melbourne offer winter events? You bet!

Melbourne keeps the events rolling out through the calendar year, from regular exhibitions at galleries across the city to dedicated winter events. You’ll have to be strategic about what you see, as there’s too much on to cram it all into one short break.

Winter Night Market

Apple cider on fire at Queen Victoria Winter Night Market
The winter night market at Queen Victoria Markets turns up the heat. (Credit: Visit Victoria/ Ewen Bell)

Cold nights are all part of the fun in Melbourne and the beloved Queen Victoria Market leans in through the winter months by staying open late every Wednesday night. There’s festoon lights, fire pits, warming drinks and, of course, plenty of morsels and stalls to sample.

Melbourne winter masterpieces at the NGV

A woman visiting the NGV Cartier exhibit
The NGV is never short on incredible exhibits. (Credit: Sean Fennessy)

The NGV is not short on engrossing and exclusive exhibitions. This winter, the gallery is hosting a 300-piece Cartier exhibition from 12 June to 4 October. All those dazzling gemstones are sure to put the shine in a winter’s day.

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Lightscape

Lightscape Royal Botanic Garden Melbourne
Lightscape illuminates the Royal Botanic Gardens of an evening each winter. (Credit: Supplied)

Illuminating the Royal Botanic Gardens until 2 August, Lightscape is an outdoor exhibition of luminous art installations. It’s an after-dark experience that fits perfectly with a cold, winter’s night.

Where to stay in Melbourne during winter?

Melbourne is boutique-forward when it comes to accommodation, but it also spreads out across the spectrum, whether you’re looking for five-star-fancy or the edgy elegance of the W, you’ll find it all close the city’s best entertainment – so you can rug up and walk out. Here, we’re calling out these two for proximity and style that suits a minibreak.

StandardX

Exterior of the StandardX in Fitzroy
Fitzroy’s StandardX hotel delivers an achingly cool winter city stay. (Credit: Supplied)

You’ll find this achingly cool hotel in the unshakeably hip Fitzroy. It’s close to plenty on foot or with an easy tram ride to the city’s hot tickets. Rooms are very Melbourne-coded with artful style that’s approachable. There’s a rooftop with a fireplace, all-day eatery Bistro X and an ultra-slick lobby lounge.

Hannah St

Explorer Room at Hannah St Hotel in Melbourne
The new premium hotel delivers an authentic Melbourne experience. (Credit: Supplied)

Levelling up the design-led luxe, this premium hotel is everything Melbourne does so well. It slots beautifully into a weekender with boutique rooms, a lap pool with city views, and five hospitality venues that tightrope timelessness and contemporary trends elegantly. It’s even been called, ‘a love letter to the city’.

Want to know where else to go near Melbourne in winter?

Have time for a country or coastal jaunt? Melbourne knows how to stoke the fire for cosy stays that don’t take you too far off-course. For wellness, wines and wonderful food, exit to the Mornington Peninsula, Yarra Valley, Daylesford and Healesville – all less than two hours away. For coastal extensions, Portsea, Sorrento, Geelong and Port Arlington are accessed within one-and-a-half hours from the city. All very doable day trips, but better to settle in and add an extra day.

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Lara Picone
Working for many of Australia’s top publications, Lara Picone has had the distinct pleasure of writing, editing and curating content about the finer things in life for more than 15 years. Graduating from Macquarie University with a Bachelor of Arts in Communication, her editorial foundation began at Qantas: The Australian Way magazine, before moving on to learn the fast-paced ropes of a weekly magazine at Sunday Magazine and picking up the art of brand curation at donna hay magazine. Pivoting a near-problematic travel lust into a career move by combining it with storytelling and a curious appetite, her next role was as Deputy Editor of SBS Feast magazine and later Online Editor of SBS Food online. She then stepped into her dream job as Editor of Australian Traveller before becoming Online Editor for both International Traveller and Australian Traveller. Now as a freelancer, Lara always has her passport at-the-ready to take flight on assignment for the Australian Traveller team, as well as for publications such as Qantas Magazine, Escape and The Weekend Australian. As ever, her appetite is the first thing she packs.
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The perfect mid-week reset an hour from Melbourne

    Kellie Floyd Kellie Floyd
    Winding down in the Yarra Valley, where ‘work from home’ becomes ‘work from wine country’.

    Steam from my morning coffee curls gently into the cool valley air, mist-veiled vineyards stretch out in neat rows below me. Magpies warble from trees, and the morning’s quiet carries the soft bleating of lambs from a nearby paddock. Midweek in the Yarra Valley has its own rhythm. It’s slower, quieter, with more empty tables at cafes and cellar doors, and walking trails I can claim all to myself. It’s as if the entire region takes a deep breath once the weekend crowd leaves.

    walking trails in the Yarra Valley
    You’ll find walking trails are less crowded during the week. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    I haven’t come here for a holiday, but to do a little work somewhere other than my home office, where I spend too much time hunched over my desk. Deadlines still loom, meetings still happen, but with flexible work evolving from ‘work from home’ to ‘work from anywhere’, I’m swapping the view of my front yard to the vineyards.

    A quiet afternoon at Yarra Valley Dairy

    holding a glass of wine at Yarra Valley Dairy
    Wine time at Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can enjoy a toastie or bagel in the cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    With the Yarra Valley just over an hour from the CBD, many Melburnians could drive here in their lunch break. I arrive late in the afternoon and am delighted to discover the Yarra Valley Dairy still open. On weekends, I’ve seen queues spilling out the door, but today there’s only one other couple inside. There’s no need to rush to secure a table; instead I browse the little store, shelves stacked with chutneys, spices, artisan biscuits and gorgeous crockery that would look right at home in my kitchen. It’s hard not to buy the lot.

    a cheese tasting plate atYarra Valley Dairy
    A cheese tasting plate at Yarra Valley Dairy.

    I order a coffee and a small cheese platter, though the dairy has a full menu, and choose a wooden table with bentwood chairs by a wide window. The space feels part farm shed, part cosy café: corrugated iron ceiling, walls painted in muted tones and rustic furniture.

    Outside, cows meander toward milking sheds. If pressed for time, there’s the option of quick cheese tastings – four samples for five dollars in five minutes – but today, I’m in no rush. I sip slowly, watching a grey sky settle over the paddock. Less than an hour ago I was hunched over my home-office desk, and now my racing mind has slowed to match the valley’s pace.

    Checking in for vineyard views at Balgownie Estate

    Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate
    Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate has views across the vines.

    As my car rolls to a stop at Balgownie Estate, I’m quietly excited, and curious to see if my plan to work and play comes off. I’ve chosen a suite with a spacious living area and a separate bedroom so I can keep work away from a good night’s sleep. I could have booked a cosy cottage, complete with open fireplace, a comfy couch and a kettle for endless cups of tea, but as I am still here to get some work done, I opt for a place that takes care of everything. Dinner is served in Restaurant 1309, as is breakfast.

    oysters at Restaurant 1309, Balgownie Estate
    Oysters pair perfectly with a crisp white at Restaurant 1309.

    On my first evening, instead of the usual walk about my neighbourhood, I stroll through the estate at an unhurried pace. There’s no need to rush – someone else is preparing my dinner after all. The walking trails offer beautiful sunsets, and it seems mobs of kangaroos enjoy the view, too. Many appear, grazing lazily on the hillside.

    I wake to the call of birds and, after breakfast, with the mist still lingering over the vineyards, I watch two hot-air balloons silently drift above clouds. Perched on a hill, Balgownie Estate sits above the mist, leaving the valley below veiled white.

    kangaroos in Yarra Valley
    Spotting the locals on an evening walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Exploring the Yarra Valley on two wheels

    the Yarra Valley vineyards
    Swap your home office for a view of the vineyards. (Image: Visit Victoria/Cormac Hanrahan)

    Perhaps because the Yarra Valley is relatively close to where I live, I’ve never considered exploring the area any way other than by car or on foot. And with a fear of heights, a hot-air balloon is firmly off the table. But when I discover I can hop on two wheels from the estate and cycle into Yarra Glen, I quickly realise it’s the perfect way to step away from my laptop and experience a different side of the region.

    COG Bike offers pedal-assist e-bikes, and while the bike trail and paths into town aren’t particularly hilly, having an extra bit of ‘oomph’ means I can soak up the surroundings. Those lambs I heard calling early in the morning? I now find them at the paddock fence, sniffing my hands, perhaps hoping for food. Cows idle nearby, and at a fork in the bike path I turn left toward town.

    It’s still morning, and the perfect time for a coffee break at The Vallie Store. If it were the afternoon, I’d likely turn right, in the direction of four wineries with cellar doors. The ride is about 15 kilometres return, but don’t let that put you off. Staying off the highway, the route takes you along quiet backroads where you catch glimpses of local life – farmers on tractors, weathered sheds, rows of vines and the kind of peaceful countryside you don’t see from the main road.

    A detour to the Dandenong Ranges

    legs hanging over the sides of the train, Puffing Billy Railway
    The iconic Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas Day.

    The beauty of basing myself in the Yarra Valley is how close everything feels. In barely half an hour I’m in the Dandenong Ranges, swapping vineyards for towering mountain ash and fern-filled gullies. The small villages of Olinda and Sassafras burst with cosy teahouses, antique stores and boutiques selling clothing and handmade body care items.

    I’m drawn to RJ Hamer Arboretum – Latin for ‘a place for trees’. Having grown up among tall trees, I’ve always taken comfort in their presence, so this visit feels like a return of sorts. A stroll along the trails offers a choice: wide open views across patchwork paddocks below, or shaded paths that lead you deeper into the quiet hush of the peaceful forest.

    The following day, I settle into a quiet corner on the balcony of Paradise Valley Hotel in Clematis and soon hear Puffing Billy’s whistle and steady chuff as the steam train climbs towards town. Puffing Billy is one of Australia’s most beloved steam trains, running through the Dandenong Ranges on a narrow-gauge track. It’s famous for its open carriages where passengers can sit with their legs hanging over the sides as the train chugs through the forest. This is the perfect spot to wave to those on the train.

    After my midweek break, I find my inbox still full and my to-do list not in the least shrunken, just shifted from one task to another. But I return to my home office feeling lighter, clearer and with a smug satisfaction I’d stolen back a little time for myself. A midweek wind-down made all the difference.

    A traveller’s checklist

    Staying there

    Balgownie Estate offers everything from cellar door tastings to spa treatments and fine dining – all without leaving the property.

    Playing there

    the TarraWarra Museum of Art, Yarra Valley
    Visit the TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)

    Wander through Alowyn Gardens, including a stunning wisteria tunnel, then explore the collection of contemporary artworks at TarraWarra Museum of Art. Cycle the Yarra Valley with COG Bike to visit local wineries and cellar doors.

    Eating and drinking there

    Olinda Tea House offers an Asian-inspired high tea. Paradise Valley Hotel, Clematis has classic pub fare, while the iconic Yering Station offers wine tastings and a restaurant with seasonal dishes.

    seasonal dishes at the restaurant inside Yering Station
    The restaurant at Yering Station showcases the best produce of the Yarra Valley. (Image: Visit Victoria)