The best Phillip Island accommodation for a coastal getaway

Tuck yourself away in a design-led cabin, bed down in a schmick beachside apartment or hole up in a dreamy whitewashed Airbnb – there’s a wealth of choice on this Victorian island.

Long a popular seaside destination for holidaymakers, this Bass Coast isle is not short of hotels, cabins, guesthouses and holiday parks, but it can take a few clicks to find the right property. Whether you’re after a peaceful retreat in nature, a historic bolthole in the thick of the action, or a modern hotel with a few facilities, these Phillip Island accommodation options should have you covered.

Five Acres

A cluster of three coastal cabins, hidden away down a dirt track on the isle’s west coast, Five Acres is the ultimate boutique retreat (it also made it into our coveted list of 100 Unique Stays). There are some serious Scandinavian vibes to the minimalist interiors here, sculpted from – and bedecked with – a riot of natural textures and materials.

The piece de resistance is arguably the freestanding smoky grey concrete bathtub that stands on the cabin’s sheltered deck, overlooking the owners’ micro-farm, where highland cattle and sheep graze. Bibliophiles will rejoice at the plentiful supply of reading materials, from cookbooks and poetry paperbacks to modern tomes on sustainable living. Guests are also treated to a beautiful breakfast spread, all from the comfort of their own cabin: you’ll find homemade granola, freshly ground coffee beans and locally made yoghurt in the kitchen pantry, perfect for enjoying alfresco on your villa’s private deck.

Address: 46 Mchaffies Ln, Ventnor

The North Pier Hotel

Smack-bang in the centre of Cowes, Phillip Island’s main township, the North Pier Hotel is a solid all-rounder. There’s a wide range of rooms on offer, from more economical Budget Rooms with twin beds and ‘retro’ bathrooms, to north-facing Ocean View Rooms with outdoor spaces (either balcony or patio) and the spacious ground-floor Bay View Suite, which has a more boutique look and feel. The hotel is also home to a popular bar and bistro, which dishes up generous portions of classic pub grub: parmas, burgers, pizzas and more. Punters also love the huge play area for kids, which features indoor bouncy castles and even a mini theatre.

Address: 5 The Esplanade, Cowes

Verandah Retreat

Looking for a little exclusivity? This grand beach house delivers. Located in Cowes, Verandah Retreat is a whitewashed three-bedroom two-bathroom home that sleeps up to six and promises lashings of interior design inspiration (or, perhaps, house envy). Inside, there’s an open fireplace (firewood provided) and an open-plan kitchen with a breakfast bar island. Outside, lies a large deck with a dining table, picnic benches and a hanging swing chair, plus a north-facing garden. To top it all off, Verandah Retreat is just 200 meters from the ocean.

Address: 3A Gordon Street, Cowes

The Sheltered Glamping Co

Those looking to get closer to nature should leaf through the options available with The Sheltered Glamping Co . This eco-conscious operation has several tents dotted around a private plot of land, all within walking distance of a secluded beach and a local winery.

Hosts Randall and Kathleen offer four different options to suit your needs (and budget), but all promise the same immersion within Phillip Island’s dreamy pastoral landscapes, plus access to a wood-fired hot tub under the stars for an additional fee.

The two canvas bell tents, ‘Gentoo’ and ‘Adèlie’, feature queen-sized beds and custom-made furniture, handcrafted on the island,  as well as a private outdoor heated shower and composting toilet, and a shared kitchenette facility.

Dial up the luxury factor a little, and you can stay in ‘Emperor’, a spacious, fully furnished safari tent. Home to an indoor wood-burning fireplace, a four-poster queen-sized bed, a king-sized bed built into the wall,  a small kitchen, solar-powered lighting, fans, USB charging ports, a speaker, and a private sheltered deck with a Weber barbecue, it’s fair to say every last detail has been taken care of here.

And if the idea of glamping at all is too much to contend with, there’s always the ‘Wülshed’. Ideal for couples, or small families, this former working woolshed has four solid walls and all the mod cons, as well as plenty of rustic country charm.

Address: Ventnor

Genesta House

A cosy guesthouse right in the thick of Cowes and full of old-world charm, Genesta House has just three immaculately furnished suites, each overlooking the property’s manicured garden from their own private verandahs. With its white picket fence, plush furnishings, chandeliers, renovated bathrooms, and warm hospitality courtesy of owners and hosts Simonne and Marcus, you’re sure to feel right at home in this weatherboard house, which dates back to 1914.

Address: 18 Steele St, Cowes

Glen Isla House

Among the most highly rated boltholes on the island, Glen Isla is something of a failsafe for those seeking cosy country charm and good old-fashioned hospitality. With just a handful of rooms to its name, this adults-only B&B offers a quiet escape. Each of the quaint and homely ‘Classic Deluxe’ en suite rooms opens out onto a small, shared deck, and has garden views.

Family-owned and -operated, hosts Richard and Evie (and their charming pup Buddy) see to it that every guest is well looked after, from their hearty home cooked breakfast (included in the rate), to the warm welcome and their readily shared local knowledge.

Address: 230 Church St, Cowes

Las Olas Shack, Phillip Island

A dreamy little two-bed ‘shack’, slap-bang in the centre of the island, Las Olas is a soothing blend of blond wood, white walls and bohemian-chic touches in shades of honey. Once a ‘60s fibro shack, this Airbnb has been lovingly renovated by husband and wife owners, Rich and Aura, who’ve clearly thought of every last detail, from curating the collection of vintage ceramic mugs in the kitchen, to the underfloor heating in the bathroom, and the beautiful linens that adorn this house’s four beds (one queen, one single, one set of bunk beds).

Beyond all of the run-of-the-mill mod cons, you’ll find a freestanding wood stove in the living room, an outdoor shower in the palm-lined garden, a cosy al fresco nook with a fire pit, and a veranda complete with a hammock.

Address: Wimbledon Heights

The Loft, Phillip Island

This open-plan one-bed property, a mere block from Smiths Beach, is a showstopper. And what it lacks in square meterage, it makes up for in style and design. Open the front door and you’ll be greeted by a curved staircase lined with speckled dove-grey stone, imported from Italy, and walls clad with American Oak. Ascend to The Loft and you’ll find sweeping views of coastal farmland and Cape Woolamai, along with a palette of soft neutrals.

Highlights of this slick apartment stay include a custom-designed and built TV and soundbar cabinet, which revolves to face either the king-sized bed or the curved cream sofa, and the modern bathroom with a walk-in rain shower, bathtub and underfloor heating.

Address: Smiths Beach

Discover the best things to do on Phillip Island

Winding down in the Yarra Valley, where ‘work from home’ becomes ‘work from wine country’.

Steam from my morning coffee curls gently into the cool valley air, mist-veiled vineyards stretch out in neat rows below me. Magpies warble from trees, and the morning’s quiet carries the soft bleating of lambs from a nearby paddock. Midweek in the Yarra Valley has its own rhythm. It’s slower, quieter, with more empty tables at cafes and cellar doors, and walking trails I can claim all to myself. It’s as if the entire region takes a deep breath once the weekend crowd leaves.

walking trails in the Yarra Valley — You’ll find walking trails are less crowded during the week. (Image: Visit Victoria)

I haven’t come here for a holiday, but to do a little work somewhere other than my home office, where I spend too much time hunched over my desk. Deadlines still loom, meetings still happen, but with flexible work evolving from ‘work from home’ to ‘work from anywhere’, I’m swapping the view of my front yard to the vineyards.

A quiet afternoon at Yarra Valley Dairy

holding a glass of wine at Yarra Valley Dairy — Wine time at Yarra Valley Dairy, where you can enjoy a toastie or bagel in the cafe. (Image: Visit Victoria)

With the Yarra Valley just over an hour from the CBD, many Melburnians could drive here in their lunch break. I arrive late in the afternoon and am delighted to discover the Yarra Valley Dairy still open. On weekends, I’ve seen queues spilling out the door, but today there’s only one other couple inside. There’s no need to rush to secure a table; instead I browse the little store, shelves stacked with chutneys, spices, artisan biscuits and gorgeous crockery that would look right at home in my kitchen. It’s hard not to buy the lot.

a cheese tasting plate atYarra Valley Dairy — A cheese tasting plate at Yarra Valley Dairy.

I order a coffee and a small cheese platter, though the dairy has a full menu, and choose a wooden table with bentwood chairs by a wide window. The space feels part farm shed, part cosy café: corrugated iron ceiling, walls painted in muted tones and rustic furniture.

Outside, cows meander toward milking sheds. If pressed for time, there’s the option of quick cheese tastings – four samples for five dollars in five minutes – but today, I’m in no rush. I sip slowly, watching a grey sky settle over the paddock. Less than an hour ago I was hunched over my home-office desk, and now my racing mind has slowed to match the valley’s pace.

Checking in for vineyard views at Balgownie Estate

Restaurant 1309 at Balgownie Estate has views across the vines.

As my car rolls to a stop at Balgownie Estate , I’m quietly excited, and curious to see if my plan to work and play comes off. I’ve chosen a suite with a spacious living area and a separate bedroom so I can keep work away from a good night’s sleep. I could have booked a cosy cottage, complete with open fireplace, a comfy couch and a kettle for endless cups of tea, but as I am still here to get some work done, I opt for a place that takes care of everything. Dinner is served in Restaurant 1309, as is breakfast.

oysters at Restaurant 1309, Balgownie Estate — Oysters pair perfectly with a crisp white at Restaurant 1309.

On my first evening, instead of the usual walk about my neighbourhood, I stroll through the estate at an unhurried pace. There’s no need to rush – someone else is preparing my dinner after all. The walking trails offer beautiful sunsets, and it seems mobs of kangaroos enjoy the view, too. Many appear, grazing lazily on the hillside.

I wake to the call of birds and, after breakfast, with the mist still lingering over the vineyards, I watch two hot-air balloons silently drift above clouds. Perched on a hill, Balgownie Estate sits above the mist, leaving the valley below veiled white.

kangaroos in Yarra Valley — Spotting the locals on an evening walk. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Exploring the Yarra Valley on two wheels

the Yarra Valley vineyards — Swap your home office for a view of the vineyards. (Image: Visit Victoria/Cormac Hanrahan)

Perhaps because the Yarra Valley is relatively close to where I live, I’ve never considered exploring the area any way other than by car or on foot. And with a fear of heights, a hot-air balloon is firmly off the table. But when I discover I can hop on two wheels from the estate and cycle into Yarra Glen, I quickly realise it’s the perfect way to step away from my laptop and experience a different side of the region.

COG Bike offers pedal-assist e-bikes, and while the bike trail and paths into town aren’t particularly hilly, having an extra bit of ‘oomph’ means I can soak up the surroundings. Those lambs I heard calling early in the morning? I now find them at the paddock fence, sniffing my hands, perhaps hoping for food. Cows idle nearby, and at a fork in the bike path I turn left toward town.

It’s still morning, and the perfect time for a coffee break at The Vallie Store. If it were the afternoon, I’d likely turn right, in the direction of four wineries with cellar doors. The ride is about 15 kilometres return, but don’t let that put you off. Staying off the highway, the route takes you along quiet backroads where you catch glimpses of local life – farmers on tractors, weathered sheds, rows of vines and the kind of peaceful countryside you don’t see from the main road.

A detour to the Dandenong Ranges

legs hanging over the sides of the train, Puffing Billy Railway — The iconic Puffing Billy runs every day except Christmas Day.

The beauty of basing myself in the Yarra Valley is how close everything feels. In barely half an hour I’m in the Dandenong Ranges, swapping vineyards for towering mountain ash and fern-filled gullies. The small villages of Olinda and Sassafras burst with cosy teahouses, antique stores and boutiques selling clothing and handmade body care items.

I’m drawn to RJ Hamer Arboretum – Latin for ‘a place for trees’. Having grown up among tall trees, I’ve always taken comfort in their presence, so this visit feels like a return of sorts. A stroll along the trails offers a choice: wide open views across patchwork paddocks below, or shaded paths that lead you deeper into the quiet hush of the peaceful forest.

The following day, I settle into a quiet corner on the balcony of Paradise Valley Hotel in Clematis and soon hear Puffing Billy’s whistle and steady chuff as the steam train climbs towards town. Puffing Billy is one of Australia’s most beloved steam trains, running through the Dandenong Ranges on a narrow-gauge track. It’s famous for its open carriages where passengers can sit with their legs hanging over the sides as the train chugs through the forest. This is the perfect spot to wave to those on the train.

After my midweek break, I find my inbox still full and my to-do list not in the least shrunken, just shifted from one task to another. But I return to my home office feeling lighter, clearer and with a smug satisfaction I’d stolen back a little time for myself. A midweek wind-down made all the difference.

A traveller’s checklist

Staying there

Balgownie Estate offers everything from cellar door tastings to spa treatments and fine dining – all without leaving the property.

Playing there

the TarraWarra Museum of Art, Yarra Valley — Visit the TarraWarra Museum of Art. (Image: Visit Victoria)

Wander through Alowyn Gardens, including a stunning wisteria tunnel, then explore the collection of contemporary artworks at TarraWarra Museum of Art . Cycle the Yarra Valley with COG Bike to visit local wineries and cellar doors.

Eating and drinking there

Olinda Tea House offers an Asian-inspired high tea. Paradise Valley Hotel, Clematis has classic pub fare, while the iconic Yering Station offers wine tastings and a restaurant with seasonal dishes.

seasonal dishes at the restaurant inside Yering Station — The restaurant at Yering Station showcases the best produce of the Yarra Valley. (Image: Visit Victoria)