The best Phillip Island accommodation for a coastal getaway

Tuck yourself away in a design-led cabin, bed down in a schmick beachside apartment or hole up in a dreamy whitewashed Airbnb – there’s a wealth of choice on this Victorian island.

Long a popular seaside destination for holidaymakers, this Bass Coast isle is not short of hotels, cabins, guesthouses and holiday parks, but it can take a few clicks to find the right property. Whether you’re after a peaceful retreat in nature, a historic bolthole in the thick of the action, or a modern hotel with a few facilities, these Phillip Island accommodation options should have you covered.

Five Acres

A cluster of three coastal cabins, hidden away down a dirt track on the isle’s west coast, Five Acres is the ultimate boutique retreat (it also made it into our coveted list of 100 Unique Stays). There are some serious Scandinavian vibes to the minimalist interiors here, sculpted from – and bedecked with – a riot of natural textures and materials.

The piece de resistance is arguably the freestanding smoky grey concrete bathtub that stands on the cabin’s sheltered deck, overlooking the owners’ micro-farm, where highland cattle and sheep graze. Bibliophiles will rejoice at the plentiful supply of reading materials, from cookbooks and poetry paperbacks to modern tomes on sustainable living. Guests are also treated to a beautiful breakfast spread, all from the comfort of their own cabin: you’ll find homemade granola, freshly ground coffee beans and locally made yoghurt in the kitchen pantry, perfect for enjoying alfresco on your villa’s private deck.

Address: 46 Mchaffies Ln, Ventnor

The North Pier Hotel

Smack-bang in the centre of Cowes, Phillip Island’s main township, the North Pier Hotel is a solid all-rounder. There’s a wide range of rooms on offer, from more economical Budget Rooms with twin beds and ‘retro’ bathrooms, to north-facing Ocean View Rooms with outdoor spaces (either balcony or patio) and the spacious ground-floor Bay View Suite, which has a more boutique look and feel. The hotel is also home to a popular bar and bistro, which dishes up generous portions of classic pub grub: parmas, burgers, pizzas and more. Punters also love the huge play area for kids, which features indoor bouncy castles and even a mini theatre.

Address: 5 The Esplanade, Cowes

Verandah Retreat

Looking for a little exclusivity? This grand beach house delivers. Located in Cowes, Verandah Retreat is a whitewashed three-bedroom two-bathroom home that sleeps up to six and promises lashings of interior design inspiration (or, perhaps, house envy). Inside, there’s an open fireplace (firewood provided) and an open-plan kitchen with a breakfast bar island. Outside, lies a large deck with a dining table, picnic benches and a hanging swing chair, plus a north-facing garden. To top it all off, Verandah Retreat is just 200 meters from the ocean.

Address: 3A Gordon Street, Cowes

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The Sheltered Glamping Co

Those looking to get closer to nature should leaf through the options available with The Sheltered Glamping Co. This eco-conscious operation has several tents dotted around a private plot of land, all within walking distance of a secluded beach and a local winery.

Hosts Randall and Kathleen offer four different options to suit your needs (and budget), but all promise the same immersion within Phillip Island’s dreamy pastoral landscapes, plus access to a wood-fired hot tub under the stars for an additional fee.

The two canvas bell tents, ‘Gentoo’ and ‘Adèlie’, feature queen-sized beds and custom-made furniture, handcrafted on the island,  as well as a private outdoor heated shower and composting toilet, and a shared kitchenette facility.

Dial up the luxury factor a little, and you can stay in ‘Emperor’, a spacious, fully furnished safari tent. Home to an indoor wood-burning fireplace, a four-poster queen-sized bed, a king-sized bed built into the wall,  a small kitchen, solar-powered lighting, fans, USB charging ports, a speaker, and a private sheltered deck with a Weber barbecue, it’s fair to say every last detail has been taken care of here.

And if the idea of glamping at all is too much to contend with, there’s always the ‘Wülshed’. Ideal for couples, or small families, this former working woolshed has four solid walls and all the mod cons, as well as plenty of rustic country charm.

Address: Ventnor

Genesta House

A cosy guesthouse right in the thick of Cowes and full of old-world charm, Genesta House has just three immaculately furnished suites, each overlooking the property’s manicured garden from their own private verandahs. With its white picket fence, plush furnishings, chandeliers, renovated bathrooms, and warm hospitality courtesy of owners and hosts Simonne and Marcus, you’re sure to feel right at home in this weatherboard house, which dates back to 1914.

Address: 18 Steele St, Cowes

Glen Isla House

Among the most highly rated boltholes on the island, Glen Isla is something of a failsafe for those seeking cosy country charm and good old-fashioned hospitality. With just a handful of rooms to its name, this adults-only B&B offers a quiet escape. Each of the quaint and homely ‘Classic Deluxe’ en suite rooms opens out onto a small, shared deck, and has garden views.

Family-owned and -operated, hosts Richard and Evie (and their charming pup Buddy) see to it that every guest is well looked after, from their hearty home cooked breakfast (included in the rate), to the warm welcome and their readily shared local knowledge.

Address: 230 Church St, Cowes

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Las Olas Shack, Phillip Island

A dreamy little two-bed ‘shack’, slap-bang in the centre of the island, Las Olas is a soothing blend of blond wood, white walls and bohemian-chic touches in shades of honey. Once a ‘60s fibro shack, this Airbnb has been lovingly renovated by husband and wife owners, Rich and Aura, who’ve clearly thought of every last detail, from curating the collection of vintage ceramic mugs in the kitchen, to the underfloor heating in the bathroom, and the beautiful linens that adorn this house’s four beds (one queen, one single, one set of bunk beds).

Beyond all of the run-of-the-mill mod cons, you’ll find a freestanding wood stove in the living room, an outdoor shower in the palm-lined garden, a cosy al fresco nook with a fire pit, and a veranda complete with a hammock.

Address: Wimbledon Heights

The Loft, Phillip Island

This open-plan one-bed property, a mere block from Smiths Beach, is a showstopper. And what it lacks in square meterage, it makes up for in style and design. Open the front door and you’ll be greeted by a curved staircase lined with speckled dove-grey stone, imported from Italy, and walls clad with American Oak. Ascend to The Loft and you’ll find sweeping views of coastal farmland and Cape Woolamai, along with a palette of soft neutrals.

Highlights of this slick apartment stay include a custom-designed and built TV and soundbar cabinet, which revolves to face either the king-sized bed or the curved cream sofa, and the modern bathroom with a walk-in rain shower, bathtub and underfloor heating.

Address: Smiths Beach

Discover the best things to do on Phillip Island

Makers, bakers, artists, chefs, crafters – Ballarat and its surrounds are overflowing with creative spirits. All dedicated to keeping traditional skills alive for a city that is humming with artful energy.

Modern makers: a new generation of artists and artisans

“Keeping craft alive is a noble cause,” says Jess Cameron-Wootten, a charming and passionate master leathercrafter and cordwainer, who handmakes traditional leather boots and shoes in Ballarat’s old Gun Cotton Goods Store.

Ballarat was recognised in 2019 as a UNESCO Creative City of Craft and Folk Art, and today it’s a place where craft traditions converge with contemporary needs. Nothing quite captures this convergence as a visit to Wootten, the workshop and store of Jess Cameron-Wootten and his partner Krystina Menegazzo.

heritage buildings in Ballarat — Ballarat’s streets are lined with heritage buildings. (Image: Matt Dunne)

Jess’s father was an artisan bootmaker, or cordwainer. Now Jess and Krys and their small team of artisans continue the tradition, but with a modern spin. The company’s boots and shoes, made completely from scratch, are renowned for their quality and longevity. Wootten also craft shoes, bags, belts, leather aprons, wallets and more.

Cosy beanies, gloves, alpaca socks, “unbreakable” shoelaces and various other goods – many from local craftspeople and small-scale makers – fill the shop’s shelves. “We’re always happy to support a mate,” says Jess. “People love to see the workshop and where things are made. Our clients care about quality and sustainability,” Krys comments. The company slogan ‘Made for generations’ says it all.

Ruby Pilven’s ceramics at Ross Creek Gallery. (Image: Tara Moore)

For Ruby Pilven, craft is also in the DNA – both her parents were potters and with her latest porcelain ceramics, Ruby’s young daughter has been helping add colour to the glazes. “I grew up watching my parents in the workshop – I’ve always been doing ceramics,” she says, although her Visual Arts degree was in printmaking. That printmaking training comes through particularly in the rich layering of pattern. Her audacious colour, unexpected shapes and sudden pops of 12-carat gold are contemporary, quirky – and joyful.

You can see Ruby’s handcrafted ceramics, and work by other local and regional artists, at Ross Creek Gallery, a light-filled space surrounded by serene bushland, across from the mudbrick house her parents built in the 1980s. A 10-minute drive from Ballarat, it’s a tangible link to the region’s well-established craft traditions.

How Ballarat is preserving the past

artisans making crafts at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat — The Centre for Rare Arts & Forgotten Trades holds workshops to preserve crafts and skills.

While tradition is ongoing, there’s a danger that many of these specific type of skills and knowledge are fading as an older generation passes on. Step forward the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

The seven purpose-built studios occupy a fabulous modern building adjacent to Sovereign Hill, with state-of-the-art facilities, enormous windows and landscape views across to Warrenheip and Wadawurrung Country.

artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades, Ballarat — Check out artisanal works at the Centre for Rare Arts and Forgotten Trades.

Practising artisans run hands-on workshops. Fancy making your own medieval armour? Or trying your hand at blacksmithing, spinning wool, plaiting leather, weaving cane or craft a knife? Book a class and learn how. “It’s about creating awareness and also sharing knowledge and skills before they are lost,” explains Deborah Klein, the centre manager.

A city steeped in food and flavours

Chef José Fernandez preparing American streetfood at Pancho — Chef José Fernandez creates vibrant South American street food at Pancho. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

One skill that hasn’t been lost is that of cooking. Ballarat’s burgeoning gastronomy scene runs the gamut from an artisan bakery (the atmospheric 1816 Bakehouse) to cool coffee shops, speakeasy cocktail bars and distilleries to fine-dining venues. But I’m still surprised to find Pancho, José Fernandez’s South American street food restaurant, serving fried cheese tequeños, fiery fish tacos, Argentinian grilled chicken.

The room is as lively as the food – a whirl of colour filled with gifted and thrifted paintings, photos, tchotchkes (trinkets), plants. There’s a Mexican abuela aesthetic going on here. Even before the music and mezcal kick in, it’s fun. Heads up on the drinks menu – an authentic selection of mezcal, tequila, South American wines and Mexican cerveza.

a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits, Ballarat — Enjoy a cocktail at Itinerant Spirits. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

The spirit is willing, so after lunch we head towards the gold rush-era Ballarat train station and across the line to the old 1860s Goods Shed for Itinerant Spirits. At one end, a massive German copper still looms behind a wall of glass. The fit-out embraces deep olive-green tones, original bluestone walls, steamer trunks as coffee tables, heritage timber floors, oversized lamp shades and cognac-hued modernist leather seating.

the Itinerant Spirits Distillery & Cocktail Bar, Ballarat — The distillery operates from an old goods shed. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Gallivanter Gin, Vansetter Vodka and Wayfarer Whiskey – the key spirits distilled – star at the bar. The spirits are crafted using grains from the Wimmera Mallee region, and native botanicals foraged in the Grampians. Seasonal cocktails are inspired by local people and places (I loved The Headland, inspired by Sovereign Hill and flavoured with old-fashioned raspberry drops). Sample the spirits, and join a cocktail masterclass or a distillery tour. It’s a seductive setting – you’ll likely find yourself ordering a charcuterie platter or pizza as the evening progresses.

The Ballarat stay combining history and luxury

one of the rooms at Hotel Vera, Ballarat — The rooms at Hotel Vera have a contemporary style. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

New lives for old buildings keeps history alive. Vera, Ballarat’s boutique five-star hotel, has taken it to the next level: it’s a palimpsest, a subtle layering of early 1900s and 1930s Art Deco architecture with a sleek new wing. There are seven spacious suites, each a dramatically different colour, with designer chairs, blissful bathrooms. High-end pottery and hand-picked artworks imbue the spaces with personality.

Vera’s intimate, award-winning restaurant, Babae, is subtly theatrical with sheer drapes and gallery lighting, its bespoke timber furniture and brass-edged marble bench setting the stage for food with a sharp regional focus. “We have goat’s cheese from a local supplier, handmade granola from local Vegas & Rose, truffles from nearby Black Cat Truffles, fresh food from our garden, and regional wines,” says joint owner David Cook-Doulton.

Celebrating the local makers, bakers, growers and producers, and the master chefs who work their magic is all part of the rich tapestry that links Ballarat’s history to its vibrant present.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

It’s 90 minutes from Melbourne, either on the Western Freeway, or hop on a V/Line train from Southern Cross Station.

Staying there

Hotel Vera is a centrally located Art Deco boutique hotel. Consider Hotel Provincial, which feels like a sleek country house, but with its own restaurant, Lola.

a contemporary room at Hotel Provincial, Ballarat — Hotel Provincial has country house vibes.

Eating there

dining at Mr Jones, Ballarat — The table is set at Mr Jones. (Image: Tony Evans/ Visit Victoria)

Culinary whiz Damien Jones helms Chef’s Hat winner Mr Jones Dining with quiet assurance. His modern Asian food is deceptively simple with deep, intense flavours. Low-key, laid-back ambience, lovely staff, thoughtful wine list.

Cocktails are definitely a thing in Ballarat. Reynard (fox in French) is foxy indeed, a clubby space with top-notch cocktails and small bites. Grainery Lane is extravagantly OTT with its massive 1880s bar, myriad chandeliers, brass gin still, Asian-inspired food and lavish cocktails.

dining at Grainery Lane, Ballarat — Dining at Grainery Lane.

Playing there

a laneway filled with artworks in Ballarat — An artful laneway in the city. (Image: Ballarat Tourism)

Check out local design legend Travis Price’s wall murals in Hop Lane with its colourful canopy of brollies, or in Main Street. The Art Gallery of Ballarat’s off-site Backspace Gallery showcases early-career artists in a stylish, contemporary space. First Nations-owned and run Perridak Arts connects people to place, bringing together art and crafts in this gallery/shop.

a woman admiring artworks at Perridak Arts Gallery — Perridak Arts is a First Nations-run gallery. (Image: Tony Evans)

The wineries of the Pyrenees are close at hand with their welcoming cellar doors and robust reds. Join a behind-the-scenes tour at the Centre for Gold Rush Collections.

Don’t forget the giant bluestone Kryal Castle, ‘the land of adventure’, for a little medieval magic, and not just for the kids: get ready for Highland-style feasting, jousting, even overnight stays.