A first-timer’s guide to North West WA

Dianne BortolettoBy Dianne Bortoletto
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Explore these hidden gems and must-see destinations when you visit the North West of Western Australia.

The North West is huge, close to the size of Spain, Germany and the United Kingdom combined in fact. Broome and surrounds in the Kimberley’s west has some of the most dazzling beaches on the planet. Surreal colours of the azure Indian Ocean are intensified by big, blue skies and the surrounding red earth. The east Kimberley around Kununurra is one of the world’s last wilderness frontiers, an ancient land that’s rugged and rust-coloured, interspersed with surprisingly abundant trees and the mighty Ord River. Further south, the Pilbara might be famous for its iron ore, but for travellers it’s home to the wondrous Karijini National Park, a playground for hikers and waterfall chasers. Here, find a taste of what’s on offer in the North West.

Unique stays

The post-pandemic world of luxury travel has been redefined; we now want space without schedules, beauty without bling, and to really get away from it all. These properties tick all the boxes without sacrificing comfort.

Berkeley River Lodge, North West WA
The blissful isolation of Berkeley River Lodge.
  • Berkeley River Lodge can only be reached by boat or seaplane.
  • Karijini Eco Retreat has safari-style eco tents, cabins and campsites at the edge of Joffre Gorge.
  • Eco Beach Wilderness Retreat is gloriously situated in the pristine Kimberley, an hour from Broome.

Five top spots

El Questro

Hike the stunning gorges and swim in the freshwater springs during the day at El Questro Wilderness Park and then lose yourself stargazing at
night, either from the luxurious homestead, comfortable cabins or economical on-site tents.
While there, tackle the 1.5-kilometre return walk under a canopy of palms to Zebedee Springs followed by a restorative dip in its thermal waters.

Gibb River Road

A rite of passage for 4WD adventurers, the Gibb River Road stretches 660 kilometres from Kununurra to Derby, most of it unsealed. ‘The Gibb’ crosses vast outback plains, passes the Cockburn Ranges, tracks through epic cattle stations the size of small countries and strikes out across crocodile-inhabited rivers that flood in the wet season.

Gibb River Road, North West WA, Western Australia
Driving the iconic Gibb River Road. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Broome

Watching the sunset over Cable Beach in Broome, cocktail in hand, is a holiday dream. While there, take a cruise on Roebuck Bay, a protected sea life haven that is home to dugongs, turtles, manta rays and the extraordinary snubfin dolphin, one of only two places in the world where they can be found.

Karijini National Park

Joffre Gorge, Karijini National Park, Pilbara, North West WA, Australia
Embrace the starkness of Joffre Gorge at Karijini National Park. (Image: Tourism WA, C&J Maddock)

Karijini is a magnet for hikers and outdoor adventurists who love to climb through tunnels, scramble over boulders, squeeze through narrow chasms, paddle over crystal-clear waterways and be showered by plunging waterfalls. There are also less vigorous hikes, gentle ambles through shady fern oases to emerald waterholes, waterfalls, dramatic red-rock cliffs and spectacular gorges.

Murujuga National Park

Murujuga National Park Petroglyphs, WA, Australia
Murujuga National Park is globally renowned for its First Nations petroglyphs. (Image: Australia’s North West, C&J Maddock)

With more than 700 historic Indigenous archaeological sites and a staggering one million rock engravings, some of which date back roughly 30,000 years, the Burrup Peninsula is the perfect place to discover the ancient and transfixing history of the Pilbara.

Where to eat

The Hoochery

Hoochery Distillery, North West, Western Australia
The spirits on offer at the Hoochery Distillery are created entirely by hand. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Located in Kununurra, The Hoochery is home to the oldest continuously operating (legal) still in WA, and its tacos are a perfect filler to accompany a tasting paddle of rum and gin. You must also try Spike’s Famous Beans and Corn Bread, named for the distillery’s founder Raymond ‘Spike’ Dessert III.

Hoochery Distillery Cafe, Western Australia
Dine at the Hoochery Distillery Cafe. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Ivanhoe Cafe

The family-run Ivanhoe Cafe, a Kununurra locals’ favourite, has tables under shady trees and chickens roaming free. Try the house-made buckwheat wraps and fresh mango smoothies.

Papa Fuego

Having opened in 2021, Papa Fuego ’s heady mix of signature cocktails, big Argentinian reds and South American- influenced dishes like flank steak cooked over fire and street-food favourites such as empanadas have proven to be a huge hit with Broome locals and visitors alike.

Cichetti Club

You can try a delicious and uniquely Australian take on an Italian staple at the Cichetti Club at Cable Beach Club : Paspaley pearl meat, prawn and crayfish tail tortellini.

The Aarli

The South-East Asian share plates at The Aarli , including kingfish sashimi, crispy eggplant and coriander pork banh mi sliders, make for a satisfying trip into Broome’s Chinatown, which can trace its origins back to the first camps and corrugated tin sheds set up by pearling crews in the 1880s.

Top things to do

Go wild swimming

Close to Kununurra, there’s Molly Springs, which is said to have fertility powers, or try Black Rock Falls, Valentine Springs, Middle Springs, and Emma Gorge, which is perfect for a post-hike swim.

Go hiking

Choosing one walk is like choosing a favourite child. There’s the World Heritage-listed Purnululu National Park, the four-tiered Mitchell Falls, or anywhere in Karijini National Park. But a highlight is Manning Gorge on the Gibb River Road at Mt Barnett Station. Start the three-kilometre walk (one way) by either swimming 100 metres across the river or using the little pull-rope boat to ferry across. The unshaded trail is marked with informal rock cairns and arrows, and the terrain is uneven, requiring scrambling over boulders. Do keep an eye out for rock art along the way. The beautiful deep gorge is best early in the season or after rain when the waterfalls are flowing.

Karijini National Park, North West, WA
The rust-red and green landscape of Karijini National Park.

See the Horizontal Falls

The 10-metre-plus tides in the Kimberley move fast, and when the rushing water is squeezed through two narrow gorges, the twin gaps at Talbot Bay, a naturally occurring horizontal waterfall is created, the only one in Australia. Known as the Horizontal Falls, the best way to view the phenomenon is from the air in a scenic flight or, for a thrill, by taking a boat cruise that rides through the rushing torrents.

Pick up a souvenir

What better souvenir than one you can wear every day and is so beautiful it becomes a conversation starter? Splurge on an impossible-to-resist South Sea pearl or Argyle pink diamond.

Pearls from Broome, North West, WA
Broome’s lustrous pearls make an indulgent souvenir.

A scenic flight over the Kimberley

You’ve taken to the skies on a scenic flight or a helicopter ride over it. The perspective from above showcases the region’s beauty and its colossal size, which is unfathomable at ground level. Whether it’s from Broome out over the Buccaneer Archipelago, or from Kununurra over Lake Argyle and beyond, a scenic flight in the Kimberley is the one thing you can’t miss.

Dianne Bortoletto
Freelance writer and photographer Dianne Bortoletto always has a trip planned, and loves going beyond the tourist zones and meeting locals. Her appetite for travel is only matched by her constant quest for the next memorable meal - the only prerequisites are fresh, regional and delicious. Besides F1, Di loves Margaret River, Italy and supermarket shopping overseas.
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Inspire your senses with these iconic East Kimberley stays

    Jennifer EnnionBy Jennifer Ennion
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    The East Kimberley should be on every bucket list, and here’s why.

    Livistona palms soar out of chasms the colour of Valencia oranges. Shady waterholes beckon travellers daring to venture off the bitumen. From the air, fruit farms give way to vast plains that meet rolling hills and fascinating geological formations centuries in the making. The East Kimberley is one of Australia’s most treasured wilderness areas, but don’t be fooled by its rust-coloured roads. This north-eastern corner of Western Australia is home to some of Australia’s most iconic stays by Discovery Resorts  that should be on everyone’s bucket list.

    A group of people enjoy an intimate dining experience at El Questro Homestead.
    Dine in the heart of nature.

    Your guide to Lake Argyle

    The backstory

    With rolling hills that glow amber at sunrise and glassy water that reflects the Kimberley’s bright blue sky, a visit to Lake Argyle is nothing short of awe-inspiring. As Australia’s second-largest man-made freshwater lake, travellers flock here to soak in the views from boats, helicopters and Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle .

    The latter is a lakeside oasis, a resort where travellers crossing from Western Australia into the Northern Territory (or vice versa) converge. Fifty minutes’ drive south of Kununurra, the property is perched atop a cliff overlooking the sprawling Lake Argyle.

    Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle was originally built in the late 1960s to provide accommodation for builders of the Ord River dam, which formed Lake Argyle. In the decades that followed it had several owners, until a Kununurra local took the reins in 2004 and reinvented the property with luxury villas and its now world-famous infinity pool. The iconic property was added to the Discovery Resorts portfolio in 2021, undergoing a major upgrade that took the resort from a beloved campground to an all-encompassing resort with premium waterfront villas.

    A boat glides across the expansive waters of Lake Argyle, surrounded by the breathtaking landscapes of the Kimberley. As part of the Discovery Holiday Parks experience, this unforgettable journey offers adventure and relaxation.
    Glide across the vast, shimmering waters of Lake Argyle.

    The rooms

    A lakeside resort like no other, Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle offers something for everyone, from campsites to villas and cabins . The Deluxe Lakeview Cabins have views of the opposing cliff and are surrounded by bush, ensuring plenty of privacy, while both the Deluxe and Standard Cabins are ideal for families, with contemporary furnishings and one, two or four bedrooms. The campsites also come in a variety of sizes.

    The facilities

    There’s no doubt the biggest drawcard to Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle is the lake, 20 times the size of Sydney Harbour. One of the best ways to experience it is on the Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer Cruise , during which you’ll see freshwater crocodiles nesting along the banks (it’s home to 30,000 freshies) and even get the chance to swim in their waters. The cruise also takes in Mt Misery, towering above the original and now submerged Argyle Downs Homestead.

    If you have young children who need to get to bed early, a great alternative is the three-hour Lunch Explorer Cruise . You’ll tour around the lake’s bays as you learn about the local wildlife before stopping at a remote island for a swim.

    Refuel between adventures at the onsite pub-style eatery, The Lake Argyle Cafe. The cafe is the heart of the resort, bringing together friends new and old over a steak, cold beer and live music. Hours vary with the seasons, but rest assured you’ll be able to enjoy a good feed year-round, with a well-stocked general store also open during the day.

    Cool off from a day of exploring in the striking infinity pool with some of the best views in the country (you’ll find sweeping views of the lake below). Or enjoy a flight with HeliSpirit, or clear your mind during a yoga class on the lawn.

    Two people unwind in an infinity pool, overlooking stunning Lake Argyle at Discovery Holiday Parks.
    Take a dip in the infinity pool and soak in breathtaking Lake Argyle views.

    Your guide to El Questro

    The backstory

    One of the most famous stays in Australia is El Questro . A former cattle station, it’s evolved into one of the country’s most recognisable tourism destinations over the past 30 years, and is now embarking on a new chapter to elevate the region’s rich First Nations culture.

    The property draws travellers seeking to reconnect with nature and the beauty of this country. Wild in spirit but immaculate in style, El Questro is a 283,000-hectare property like no other; surrounded by dramatic gorges, impressive mountain ranges, thermal springs, secluded waterfalls and even rainforest, it’s the perfect base for adventurous souls.

    A person floats leisurely in the river at Discovery Holiday Parks, immersed in nature’s tranquillity.
    Float along Zebedee Springs and immerse in nature.

    The rooms

    Across the sprawling El Questro are three properties catering to the wide variety of travellers who journey this way. The most impressive is the luxurious Homestead , where 10 suites perch at the edge of a burnt-orange cliff, with cantilevered bedrooms over the peaceful Chamberlain River. The adults-only, all-inclusive Homestead is a member of the prestigious Luxury Lodges of Australia collection and offers a backdrop of thick bushland; riverside, you’ll find an immaculate lawn and a shaded pool that lures guests out of their rooms.

    At Emma Gorge , travellers will be immersed in the beauty of the Cockburn Ranges, falling asleep to the sounds of wildlife in safari-style tented cabins. This is where you come if you want to completely connect with your environment while retaining a few creature comforts. The Emma Gorge Tented Cabins sleep three or four people and feature private ensuites and ceiling fans.

    Families also love The Station , home to simple yet comfortable air-conditioned rooms, as well as a large, leafy campground. Sitting by the Pentecost River, The Station is open from April to October and has a range of accommodation, from unpowered and powered campsites to air-conditioned tents for two people and a Gardenview Family Room for five.

    Two people stand beside a suite perched on the edge of a striking burnt-orange cliff, gazing out over the serene Chamberlain River below.
    Take a breather with stunning views of nature all around.

    The facilities

    Located in the heart of the Kimberley, El Questro retains its strong connection with its Traditional Owners, the Ngarinyin people. A highlight of a stay here is the Injiid Marlabu Calls Us experience ; over two hours, guests are immersed in the soul of Country by witnessing ancient healing rituals, listening to generational stories and learning about the land’s ancestral heritage.

    Other experiences include bird watching, cruising through Chamberlain Gorge, hiking through Emma Gorge, horse riding, four-wheel-driving and soaking in Zebedee Springs. At the properties, you can also cool off in the pools, and relax in the restaurants or at private dining locations. A bonus of staying at The Homestead is the exclusive service of El Questro’s dedicated reservations team, who will craft a bespoke itinerary tailored to your travel tastes.

    A group of people stand beside a tree, with a car parked nearby, taking in the surrounding natural beauty.
    Experience thrilling nature activities.

    Book your East Kimberley adventure today with Discovery Resorts.