Back to Broome: Where It All Began | Australian Traveller

It can take travelling all over the world to appreciate how incredibly unique our country is. This was true for our co-founder, whose journey to the Kimberley 20 years ago sparked an idea. He heads back to where it all began.

Broome and I have history. It started 20 years ago when, after living overseas for five years, I returned to my island home with an English girlfriend. And, in an effort to show her some of this vast country, we headed off for a week at the seminal, iconic and luxury Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa in Broome.

As we came into land over Roebuck Bay, the mesmerising colours of the northwest edge of Australia made such an impression on me that I had an epiphany: “Why the hell haven’t I seen my own country?"

And, as the wheels of the Virgin Blue jet hit the tarmac in Broome, the vision for Australian Traveller was born: a brand that would celebrate what is magnificent and magical about this country. I love Rome, Tuscany, Paris, Newfoundland, Corfu. But in the context of having seen so much of the world, how good is Australia?

The colours of Broome

And the rest, they say, is history. Well, not quite. There was the year of planning and dreaming. The years of living like a student and selling our houses (both my business partner Nigel Herbert and I had to ‘refinance’ the business in the first six months from the proceeds of selling our only assets).

Looking back now, it seems obvious that Broome and the Kimberley would have this profound effect on me. These are destinations that make you really appreciate just how special and different Australia is to other parts of the world.

an aerial view of Cable Beach in Broome — Australian Traveller has ties to WA’s Cable Beach in Broome that extend back for about two decades. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

In the intervening years I have felt that profound sense of the exceptional time and time again in many parts of Australia: Wilpena Pound/Ikara, Arnhem Land, Wilsons Promontory (Wamoon), Uluru, Port Stephens on Worimi Country and K’gari are just a few that spring to mind. And that feeling extends to the thrill of being able to share this passion with the readers of Australian Traveller.

Broome, the Kimberley, Australian Traveller and I are deeply connected, but I had not returned until recently. Two decades on, during my second visit, I find more connections that deepen my bond to this antipodean point of Australia from my home in Sydney.

the red sun camel tour on Cable Beach at sunset — It’s where Quentin Long first became tethered to the idea of starting a magazine that celebrates the nation. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

An evolving journey

The world has changed. But more significantly, I have changed. I return now as a husband and dad, but not particularly wiser. The more I learn, the more I realise how little I know.

My body has also changed. My son has recently started calling me ‘one leg’ on account of my MS-affected gait. I am a living example that Australia is a land that is best enjoyed when all limbs work effortlessly together.

But that is changing. Accessible tourism is now firmly on the agenda for tourism businesses in Australia and one of three content pillars of Australian Traveller. The second is conscious travel; we aim to make sure all our readers understand the impact of the choices they make in their travels.

Oolin Sunday Island Cultural Tours from above — Enjoy an immersive cultural experience with Oolin Sunday Island Cultural Tours. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

The final pillar that is important for us to support is Indigenous tourism, which leads me to Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, two and half hours north of Broome. It’s here I meet Rosanna Angus, recent recipient of ‘Best Tour Guide in the Country’ at Australia’s Top Tourism Town Awards 2023, and experience her Oolin Sunday Island Cultural Tours .

guide Rosanna Angus of Oolin Sunday Island Cultural Tours — Guide Rosanna Angus of Oolin Sunday Island Cultural Tours. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Dinner on the balcony of the restaurant at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm reveals the quintessential Kimberley Coast that floored me two decades ago. I feast on prawns, pearl meat and scallops smothered in a mango chilli puree that is just perfect. The meal reminds me that the single biggest change in the last 20 years of travel in Australia has been the improvement in epicurean experiences in the regions.

a boat moored on the shore, Oolin Sunday Island Cultural Tours — The white sands and cyan seas on show with Oolin Sunday Island Cultural Tours. (Image: Quentin Long)

Another incredible meal two days later at Zookeepers by Spinifex Brewing Co. in Broome provides further testament to that. The prawn toast is loaded with fresh crustaceans and drizzled with zingy mayonnaise. The pork and barra bao buns are equally magnificent. Back in Cygnet Bay, the glamping tents with luxurious beds and en suite bathrooms are a contrast to the rugged landscape. As the food in regional and remote Australia improved, so too did the accommodation offerings.

diver’s creek safari tents at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm — Stay in position at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm in a Diver’s Creek Safari Tent.

A cultural exchange

I meet Rosanna at the Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm reception the following morning. One of the Traditional Owners of the Bardi and Jawi people, she is warm with a wicked sense of humour and greets me with a big hug despite us never having met before.

“Our mob were the first stand-up paddleboarders," she says with a laugh as we admire an old raft that hangs against the outside kitchen wall at Cygnet Bay. How the Jawi would paddle between islands is no mean feat considering the enormous pearl-friendly tides create some monstrous eddies and whirlpools.

As we motor towards Ewuny (Sunday Island) on one of Cygnet Bay’s many high-speed sightseeing boats, Rosanna shares a trove of remarkable pictures that reveal the life of the Jawi people pre- and post-the arrival of the missionaries at the turn of the 20th century.

extracting pearl from the shell at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm — Visit Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, also in the Dampier Peninsula. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Some of the photos show Elders and chiefs adorned with headdresses and pearl shells. Others show the Bardi and Jawi people dressed in Victorian-era clothing. Rosanna, contrary to my instincts, is not altogether unforgiving of the missionaries, acknowledging the role they played in equipping her Elders with skills that would prove useful in the context of colonial Australia.

“I want people to know my Ancestors were here before the mission and that survival in community was not an issue back then because we knew how to live on Country. But the missionaries also taught us useful things, like how to read and write, and mechanical skills, which enabled the old people to get work and an income and survive in the modern world," she says.

an aerial view of Dampier Peninsula — Take in the rugged beauty of the Dampier Peninsula. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Today, because I can’t make the walk up to the missionaries’ buildings, Rosanna decides to take me to her favourite and most special place on the island; Goodngarngoon (place of running water). ‘Running water’ refers to the pandanus-fringed, spring-fed creek that trickles the length of the small gorge to the sea.

“I love this beach. It’s good liyarn," Rosanna tells me. I couldn’t agree more. Staring out of the narrow cove through the striated cliffs as eagles soar above, my liyarn, or soul, is certainly soothed.

a beach in Broome at sunset — A sweep of beach in Broome. (Image: Quentin Long)

The place where everything begins

Back in Broome on a half-day town tour with Broome & Around Tours , we pass Minyirr Park, which hugs the western edge of Cable Beach all the way to Gantheaume Point.

an aerial view of the sandstone cliffs of Gantheaume Point, Broome fringed by the Indian Ocean — The sandstone cliffs of Gantheaume Point, Broome, are hemmed in by the frayed edges of the Indian Ocean. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

“Minyirr means birthplace and is meant to be the place where everything in the Yawaru culture began," tour guide Dooma Harp reveals. I immediately recognise Gantheaume Point. It was one of our most successful covers. (Former editor Lara Picone has also selected it as her favourite cover). It feels like the very edge of Australia, because it kind of is. Again, it is the colours that amaze me: the contrast of the blue sea and eroded rocks that look like fossilised drops of rusted, molten iron.

I learn from Dooma that green and red are used in most of the houses and structures in Broome because those are the colours of the luggers. When the mother of pearl industry collapsed after the Second World War, the excess paint was used in the town.

an aerial view of Roebuck Bay coastline in Broome, Western Australia — The Kimberley and Broome have a profound effect on Australian Traveller co-founder, Quentin Long.

The view from above (again)

Hilary Wilkins was landing in Perth from the UK around the time I arrived in Broome 20 years ago. Today she is my chopper pilot.

Hilary is flying me to Eco Beach to enjoy lunch via the Roebuck Bay coastline. “I just love the colours," she says, as we gently peel away from the Broome airport tarmac. Rising above Broome, the Crab Creek inlet is a swirl of white, turquoise, aquamarine and milky mint daubs.

breathtaking views over Broome with KASHelicopters — Enjoy breathtaking views over Broome with KAS Helicopters. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Hilary points out the small shorebirds picking through the mud and sand flats of the bay. The shorebirds are travellers themselves, arriving in Broome after a lengthy flight from Siberia.

We fly over rivers and rivulets emptying into the bay like paint swirled on a palette. How many shades of green, blue, turquoise, rust, red, yellow and white can there be?

flying over Broome with KAS Helicopters — A bird’s-eye view of Broome with KAS Helicopters. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Lunch is served by the pool at Eco Beach Resort . Shaded hammocks are set into the beach for an idyllic afternoon. And the tide is coming back in on the flight back to Broome. The water is alive with action. We spot small reef sharks skimming the water pursuing bait fish. The stingrays are easier to spot; their sandy trail through the water ends on their black, diamond shape.

I spot the dirty green brown of a crocodile sunbaking just under the khaki green water’s surface at the mouth of a creek.

Hilary makes a quick turn to get another look and the croc silently sinks out of sight as we drift closer.

an aerial view of the Kimberley coast — Soak up the Kimberley coast from above. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Stoking the fire

Back at Cable Beach Club, I am preparing for the Sunset Long Table Dinner, the final event of the Shinju Matsuri Festival designed to celebrate Broome’s rich multicultural heritage and pearling history. The resort was built by the visionary Lord Robert McAlpine who put tourism on the map in Broome.

a waiter smiling while serving at Cable Beach Club — Service with a smile at Cable Beach Club. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

To me, it is no coincidence that it took a foreigner to have the vision for Broome. I would not have appreciated Broome without having lived overseas 20 years ago. And I have to admire McAlpine’s vision. If you were to knock this place down and start again, you would end up building something very similar to what he created. It, like Broome, has stood the test of time.

When I arrived 20 years ago I had a rush of lust for Broome and Australia. The feeling was so powerful I launched a business that has consumed me ever since. I was hesitant to return. I didn’t want to be disappointed and have this place that I had venerated reduced, as it could have rendered a rethinking of the last two decades of toil.

I need not have worried. My passion prevails for this great continent we are lucky enough to call our country and home.

relaxing outside safari tents at Pearler’s Village — Where you can glamp or camp in the Pearler’s Village. (Image: Jarrad Seng)

A Traveller’s Checklist

Getting there

Qantas flies from Melbourne or Sydney to Broome direct on a seasonal schedule or via Perth year-round.

Staying there

Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa in Broome has a variety of accommodation styles including studios and villas, which have a plunge pool. The resort has four restaurants, plus two pools with food and drink service and the legendary Sunset Bar.

Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm in Cygnet Bay is two and half hours north of Broome on the Dampier Peninsula. It has luxury glamping safari-style tents plus campsites. The Homestead is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. You can access a host of tours from the farm plus scenic flights over the Kimberley, including Horizontal Falls.

a woman relaxing by the pool at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm — Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, where you can glamp, camp and park your caravan, offers a uniquely Australian experience. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Eating there

Zookeepers by Spinifex Brewing Co. has a great food and cocktail menu of crowd favourites with a Broome twist. Zookeepers would be a local favourite in any town or city in Australia. The prawn toast is a must.

The annual Sunset Long Table Dinner on Cable Beach makes the most of the celebrated sunset in Australia with great food curated by a celebrity chef.

This remote corner of Australia is one of the world’s last frontiers. This is how to see it properly.

Vast, rugged and deeply spiritual, the Kimberley coast in Australia’s North West feels a world away from everyday Australia – and there are countless ways to explore it. But if you want to reach ancient rock art, hidden gorges and lonely waterfalls, it has to be by boat. Whether you’re aboard a nimble expedition vessel or a luxury yacht with all the trimmings, exploring by the water brings exclusive experiences, shows unique views and makes travel easier than any other mode. And that’s just the beginning of Australia’s North West cruises.

The True North Adventure Cruise in between sandstone cliffs. — Adventure starts where the road ends.

1. Discover Broome, and beyond

Explore your launchpad before you set sail: Broome. Here camels and their riders stride along the 22 kilometres of powdery Cable Beach at sunset. That’s just the start.

At Gantheaume Point, red pindan cliffs plunge into the turquoise sea, whose low tide uncovers fossilised dinosaur footprints. Broome’s pearling history runs deep. Japanese, Chinese, Malay and Aboriginal divers once worked these waters, and their legacy lives on in boutiques where South Sea pearls still shine.

If the moon’s right, you may catch the Staircase to the Moon over Roebuck Bay. Or simply kick back with a cold beverage and a film under the stars at Sun Pictures , screening since 1916.

Ride a camel along Cable Beach as the sun sinks into the Indian Ocean, casting golden light across the sand and sea. — Ride a camel along Cable Beach. (Image: Nick Dunn)

2. Unmatched access to The Kimberley

Once you’re onboard, expect a backstage pass to some of the most isolated places on Earth. No roads. No ports. No phone reception.

At Horizontal Falls/ Garaanngaddim, 10-metre tides surge through twin gorges like a natural waterpark ride that’ll make your palms sweat. Then there’s Montgomery Reef/ Yowjab: a giant living platform of coral and seagrass, where the sea pulls back to reveal waterfalls, sea turtles and ospreys.

Up north, King George Falls/ Oomari rage 80 metres down red cliffs. Zodiac boats often nudge in closer so you can feel the spray on your sun-warmed cheeks. You might even fly in to reach Mitchell Falls/ Punamii-unpuu, a four-tiered cascade where you can swim in freshwater pools above the drop.

Come spring, some itineraries veer west to Rowley Shoals: an atoll chain of white sand and reef walls. Then it’s up the winding Prince Regent River to King Cascade/ Maamboolbadda, tumbling over rock terraces, and into a Zodiac to view the Gwion Gwion rock art, whose slender, ochre-painted figures are older than the pyramids.

A cruise drifts beneath King George Falls, where sheer sandstone cliffs frame the thunderous plunge into turquoise waters. — Get closer to the Kimberley than ever before.

3. Taste the Kimberley with onboard hospitality

You might spend your days clambering over slippery rocks or charging past waterfalls. But when you’re back on the water, it’s a different story. Meals are chef-prepared and regionally inspired: grilled barramundi, pearl meat sashimi, mango tarts, and bush tomato chutney. One night it’s barefoot beach barbecues with your shipmates; the next, alfresco dining on the ship.

Small expedition ships each have their own personality, but many carry just 12 to 36 guests, making being out on the water a whole other experience. You might sink into a spa on the foredeck or sip coffee in a lounge while watching crocodiles cruise by. It’s choose-your-own-relaxation, Kimberley style.

4. Expert-led excursions through the Kimberley

These voyages are led by people who know the Kimberley like the back of their sunburnt hand. Attenborough-esque naturalists might gently tap your shoulder to point out rare birds or tell the story beneath a slab of rock. Historians can explain exactly how that rusted World War II relic came to rest here.

If your ship has a helipad, you might chopper straight to a waterfall-fed swimming hole. If not, you’ll still be hopping ashore for that wet landing at a secret creek.

Then come the evenings: songlines shared by Traditional Owners under the stars, or astronomy sessions that link what’s overhead with what’s underfoot and what’s within.

A small group glides through Kimberley’s rugged coastline by boat, passing ancient cliffs. — Explore with naturalists and historians by your side.

5. Relax in luxurious lodgings

Just because you’re off-grid doesn’t mean you have to rough it. These Kimberley vessels are small in size, but mighty in luxury. True North’s ships come with their own helicopters and a no-sea-days policy, so you’re always in the thick of it. Try the luxurious offerings from Ocean Dream Charters for exploration in style. Kimberley Quest offers a fast boat for easy, off-ship adventures. On the larger end of the scale, Coral Expeditions has open-deck bars and curated wine cellars. And then there’s Ponant’s luxury yachts – sleek and incredibly stylish French sailing yachts.

A helicopter soars above the sea, with a sleek cruise ship gliding in the distance. — See the Kimberley from sky to shore.

6. The adventure continues with pre- and post-cruise experiences

You’ve already come this far – so, why not go further? Broome makes it easy to ease in before you board, or wind down when your voyage ends, and there is no reason to stop there.

Head an hour and a half south to Eco Beach to stay off-grid and off the clock. Join a Yawuru guide for a mangrove walk or ocean forage. Dive even deeper into Broome’s pearling past at Willie Creek or Cygnet Bay, where divers and craftspeople still pull the seawater-slicked gems from the deep.

If you’re still craving adventure, it’s time to go further. Soar over the Buccaneer Archipelago, or detour inland with a 4WD trip along the Gibb River Road. Book a scenic flight over the Bungle Bungles. Or – because you never know when you’ll be back – do all three.

aerial of people walking on eco beach in the kimberley western australia — Stay off grid at Eco Beach. (Image: Tourism WA)

Find out more about your trip to Australia’s North West at australiasnorthwest.com .

Back to Broome: The inspiration behind two decades of seeing Australia