WA locals: Bart Pigram, founder of Narlijia Tours

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For Bart Pigram, Founder of Narlijia Tours in Rubibi/Broome, his hope is for those who take his tour to feel that they have made a ‘true’ connection to Broome.

‘Narli’ means ‘true, proper, authentic’ and ‘jia’ means ‘true authentic for you’. I called the company Narlijia because I don’t focus on the glossy side of the pearling industry in WA. Truth-telling is a major part of reconciliation and I cut deep with some tragic stories that no other operator dares to tell. I have been running tours for seven years and I don’t shy away from anything. It’s a revelation. I want to change the narrative. If I wasn’t so committed to continuing our traditional knowledge and practice I would not be in a position to absorb the true living spirituality of the landscape, its beauty and environmental and cultural significance. It is my responsibility to communicate to others the truth about Western Australia’s colonial history and how that impacted our ancestors and the ripple effect that has had on our circumstances today.

Broome, WA
“It is my responsibility to communicate to others the truth about Western Australia’s colonial history," says Bart Pigram.

I learned about my culture from my grandmother, through music and heritage, and how that glues people together. What I am most proud of as a Yawuru man is speaking the language, practising the culture and being connected to the Country of my paternal grandmother, who passed away a few years ago. I am a saltwater man and I belong to the Pigram-Puertollano family, who have a long tradition of pearling and performing. I have two Filipino great-great-grandfathers who arrived here due to the pearling industry and married Aboriginal women. That is a common social history in Broome and acknowledging that is a great way to connect visitors with Broome’s history.

Beaches in Broome, WA
“My hope is that anyone who takes my tour feels they have made a ‘true’ connection to Broome."

My hope is that anyone who takes my tour feels they have made a ‘true’ connection to Broome. I’m not talking about lapping up the great weather and beaches, I’m talking about sponging up its fascinating social, political, industrial, cultural and environmental history, which is pretty unique. I have a very strong spiritual connection to this land. I feel the country. When I take visitors on my Mangrove Discovery Experience tour we walk on Country through Roebuck Bay, which is significant both culturally and historically for Broome. We also trek through jabalbal (mudflats) where I talk about the cultural significance of mangroves, and visit the site where first contact happened between pearlers and Aboriginal people. This historic site is a place I’m rooted to both as an Australian and Indigenous person. I also guide groups to a site in Broome that, apart from the dinosaur footprints on the western side of the town, is a very important cultural site with artefacts and Dreamtime stories.

I grew up in Broome and I love living here, but if I do have time off I go to Lake Eda because that is my great-great-great grandmother’s Country. It’s a beautiful lake on the north-eastern side of Roebuck Plains and the largest lake in Yawuru Country. It is full of birdlife and attracts goannas, kangaroos and turkeys so it’s a great hunting ground. When I’m there I whisper, wish and pray for our ancestors to look after us and to provide us with food and fish. It’s off the beaten track for sure. You won’t find busloads of tourists, just the odd birdwatcher.

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Exploring an icon: inside the massive upgrade to Broome’s famous Cable Beach

(Credit: Tourism WA)

    Lucy Cousins Lucy Cousins
    With unhurried mornings, long, sun-filled afternoons, evenings shaped around sunset, this iconic beach offers an all-day experience (and it’s about to get even better).

    As the sun slowly rises over the languid waves and fine sand of Broome’s Cable Beach, the morning colours shift from rich apricot to pale gold and frosty pearl. Remnants of life reveal themselves in the subtle shadows – crab claw marks, towel impressions, footprints. Life here is unhurried, but don’t be fooled. This town is continually shifting like the desert dunes that surround it.

    And with a $75 million upgrade – offering easier and more inclusive access for people of all abilities – it’s getting even better.

    Cable Beach upgrade foreshore redevelopment stage 1
    Discover the Cable Beach redevelopment.

    The addition of comfortable and welcoming spaces has begun (and will continue). This means visitors will be able to spend longer enjoying this beautiful environment, while knowing that the upgrade will create a more environmentally protected setting that preserves the natural character visitors come for. Come sunset, soak it in all the better thanks to the already improved foreshore areas, made for lingering while the light changes. And for the kids, a new splash park and accessible dry playground will make it easy to while away the hours.

    Think you know what a day at this beach is like? Think again.

    Morning colours

    car on cable beach at sunrise
    Cable Beach comes alive after sunrise. (Credit: Tourism WA)

    As the sun colours the sky, Cable Beach shows signs of life (and not just the aquatic kind). Locals and visitors alike float in the cool water as it laps the shore, landlubbers explore the coast on foot, runners pace and beachside yoga classes bring quiet movement to the day.

    When the sky is blue and the sun is firmly in position, head down to the well-known Cable Beach House for a long, slow breakfast overlooking the ocean. Think fresh tropical fruit, eggs cooked your way and strong coffee in the warm morning breeze.

    Afternoon adventures

    camel train on cable beach in broome at sunset
    Join a camel train at sunset. (Credit: C J Maddock)

    When you’re ready to explore, carve a path along the Minyirr Park Trail – a gentle 1.5-2km track through coastal bushland with spectacular views of the dunes. Refuel at the nearby Spinifex Brewery for lunch with its low-key, outdoor beer garden. There’s even an outdoor playground if you’re travelling with young humans.

    Walk off your lazy lunch by watching (or joining) one of the beach soccer or volleyball games, or even try Silent Beats Broome – a silent walking disco through the dunes. Or book a spot on the famous camel trains, watching the sun drop below the horizon along the way. They’re a constant reminder of the fascinating history, landscape and cultural mix in this part of the country.

    Evening degustation

    server at Cable Beach Club
    Stop into the Cable Beach Club. (Credit: Tourism WA)

    As the day closes, watch the world-famous Cable Beach sunset from the appropriately named Sunset Grill at Cable Beach Club. This open-air terraced dining spot overlooking the beach is the kind of place where the view takes centre stage.

    While you sip on a lychee, lime & lemonade mocktail or a local beer, enjoy the bustle of life and nature outside as the day comes to an end.

    For dinner, nab a table at the Bali Hai Cafe, where they offer pan-fried crispy barramundi, Abrolhos Island scallops and deep-sea snow crab. When you’re ready for bed, check in to Pinctada Hotel Broome – a lush, tropical resort with palm-dotted gardens and a large, lagoon-style pool to cool off in.

    Beyond the beach

    Beyond the wide, open beach and never-ending sky of Cable Beach, there are many more reasons to visit North West Australia. These are just a few.

    Unmatched experiences

    Shinju Matsuri Festival's popular Long Table Dinner on cable beach
    Join Shinju Matsuri Festival’s popular Long Table Dinner. (Credit: Tourism WA)

    Engage with the history of the land and its people on an Indigenous cultural tour exploring everything from the local wildlife to the tastes of bush tucker. To understand the importance of pearling to this town, take a tour of Chinatown, or head outside of town to the live pearl harvests at Willie Creek or Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, one of Australia’s oldest pearl farms.

    Learn why Japanese pearlers were central to Broome’s pearling success and visit the largest Japanese cemetery in Australia, where 900 Japanese pearlers were buried – a testament to the risks and rewards of this dangerous profession.

    And book ahead every spring for when communal tables, freshly cooked local fare and festoon lighting fill the beach for the extremely popular Long Table Dinner on Cable Beach. It’s a highlight of the Shinju Matsuri Festival, along with the Floating Lanterns Matsuri, where you can personalise a lantern and gently release it into the sea to honour those you love.

    Dining discoveries

    Matso’s Broome Brewery
    Settle in for Matso’s famous ginger or mango beer. (Credit: Tourism WA)

    Further your culinary adventure at the laid-back Sunday Sesh at Matso’s Broome Brewery. Chow down on smoked crocodile or Aussie barramundi while kicking back to a local DJ as the heat of the day fades.

    For more tunes, the beautiful outdoor Bay Club at the Mangrove Hotel is a great choice for dinner with live music, DJs or an event that stretches on into the early hours. Still hungry? Pop by Johnny Sausage for Italian-influenced meals paired with impeccable wines.

    Natural beauties

    Gantheaume Point cabnle beach broome
    Experience the striking colours of Gantheaume Point. (Credit: Tourism WA)

    Avoid the crowds and head to Town Beach for a quieter vantage point to see the phenomenal Staircase to the Moon – a natural illusion where the rising full moon is reflected on the tidal flats, creating a shimmering ‘staircase’ stretching up to the sky.

    Just south of Cable Beach are the deep red cliffs and dramatic ocean views of Gantheaume Point, where 130-million-year-old dinosaur footprints can be seen, revealed at low tide. Or head to Roebuck Bay to visit the internationally significant wetlands, where vast tidal flats are home to shorebirds and coastal fauna.

    Between October and March, watch turtles nesting and hatchlings emerge from the sand. You’ll be holding your breath as they make their way down to the shoreline, ready to start their life in one of Australia’s most beautiful landscapes.

    For more on Cable Beach and Australia’s North West, visit australiasnorthwest.com.