El Questro Wilderness Park- Australian Traveller

Whether you’re soaking in thermal springs beneath prehistoric palms, hiking through ancient gorges or taking scenic champagne flights to remote beaches, a journey to El Questro in WA’s East Kimberley combines classic outback adventure with a splash of luxury.

As we thunder along the red dirt road there isn’t a storm cloud in sight. No sign of the heavenly downpour that took place here just last week. Technically it’s the start of the wet season in the East Kimberley, but as our 4WD travels over thirsty earth, we leave a plume of dust in our wake.

Later as we slow-weave our way deeper into the landscape, the majesty of Balanggarra Country is so close we can literally reach out of our open-style safari vehicle and touch it. As if reading our thoughts, our Akubra-clad guide, Todd Smith, looks back eagerly through the rear vision mirror. “Do you reckon you can keep a secret?" he asks with excitement brimming in his voice. “If so, I’ll show you something really special."

Traversing the El Questro Wilderness Park

It’s a big call in a place known for containing some of the country’s most remarkable outback treasures, and though I’ve promised not to reveal its exact location within the 284,000 hectares that make up El Questro Wilderness Park, I can confirm that the sighting of the bower is one of our most memorable moments.

Intricately crafted to attract a female mate, the male bowerbird’s elaborate courtship structure is a magnificent piece of avian architecture. The domed avenue of thatched twigs is striking – its entrance decorated with strategically placed bones, pebbles and other brightly coloured foraged objects, such as a button that’s presumably come loose from the shirt of a passing hiker.

Home to unique wildlife and more than 300 bird species, the Kimberley region is regarded as one of the last remaining true wilderness areas on Earth, with El Questro at the centre of its beating heart.

brolgas flying above El Questro — Brolgas are also easily spotted here. (Image: Todd Smith)

A station stay for road trip adventurers

High on the wishlist of many Australian travellers, the former cattle property’s exclusive homestead overlooking the Chamberlain River provides some of the country’s most luxurious retreat-style accommodation, while The Station and Emma Gorge sites provide more modest facilities with access to highlights of its vast Wilderness Park. It’s a must-stop destination for road trip adventurers undertaking the iconic Gibb River Road.

an aerial view of a car driving in El Questro Wilderness Park — Embrace the outback scenery. (Image: Tourism Australia)

While this epic road is the heartland’s main artery, stretching 660 kilometres from Derby in the west to Kununurra in the east, our group of four have opted for the slightly easier route here to explore savannah grasslands, ancient gorges, winding rivers and cascading waterfalls within pockets of prehistoric rainforest – flying into the gateway town of Kununurra, before hiring a 4WD to take us 110 kilometres west; first along the Great Northern Highway, then a sealed section of the famed Gibb River Road with its legendary Pentecost River crossing, and finally a gravel track leading to El Questro Station.

a close-up photo of the hidden waterfalls at El Questro Wilderness Park — El Questro Wilderness Park is home to hidden waterfalls. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Incredible things to do

Hike the scenic El Questro Gorge

Back at the bower, three loud squawks from the giant bowerbird are our cue to continue the morning’s adventures. Clearing a river crossing, we arrive early at the entrance to El Questro Gorge to beat the heat, but before setting off on the trail Todd makes an acknowledgement of Country to pay respect to the Balanggarra people, the Traditional Owners of this northern section of the Wilderness Park.

Important to local First Nations people, El Questro Gorge is also one of the Wilderness Park’s most popular day hikes, with the 7.2-kilometre return trip taking approximately three to five hours to complete and including stops to swim along the way at the aptly named Halfway Pool and MacMicking Pool, with its waterfall, at the end.

an aerial view of visitors swimming in El Questro — Plunge right into the refreshing waters below the gorge. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Cool off at Emma Gorge’s waterfalls

Another favourite is the Emma Gorge Trail which – being fortunate enough to have now visited this once-in-a-lifetime destination twice – I completed four years earlier. Known as one of the most challenging hikes in one of the most spectacular gorges in the Kimberley, I think back to the awe-inspiring experience of watching Emma Gorge’s 65-metre-high waterfall spill down the side of a chasm – droplets falling on my skin as I floated blissfully beneath.

a woman standing in front of Emma Gorge's waterfall — Swimming beneath Emma Gorge’s 65-metre waterfall is awe-inspiring. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Sandwiched now between the towering cliff faces of El Questro Gorge, we follow the winding creek through its base. Eyes down as we rock-hop along, I remind myself to look up. And when I do, I marvel at the beauty of 1.8-billion-year-old Wunaamin Miliwundi sandstone with its gold and amber hues shifting in the sunlight like those within a cathedral.

Soft morning rays also filter through the rainforest’s prehistoric foliage. “The taller of these palms is the livistona which can reach up to 18 metres and the other is the pandanus spiralus which grows upwards in a spiral," Todd says before explaining how.

cruising down the Chamberlain Gorge — A cruise down the river to Chamberlain Gorge is a chance to spot crocodiles and rock wallabies. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Explore the ‘jewel’ of the Kimberley: Lake Argyle

Just 40 minutes from Kununurra via the Victoria Highway and through the Carr Boyd Ranges, Lake Argyle is a must-visit on your East Kimberley road trip. And while the Kimberley’s first diamond deposit might have been discovered here in 1979, it’s not the only reason it’s known as the ‘jewel’ of the Kimberley.

More than 18 times the size of Sydney Harbour, Lake Argyle is the second-largest freshwater reservoir in Australia, and though man-made, it is a haven for native wildlife and a playground for locals and visitors alike. Once home to Kimberley pioneering family the Duracks, Lake Argyle on Miriwoong Country is now home to more than 70 islands. With multiple opportunities to explore them (including bushwalking trails, and paddleboard and kayak hire), the best way by far is via helicopter and boat.

an aerial shot of the 70 islands on Lake Argyle — The lake contains more than 70 islands. (Image: Bonita Grima)

Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer cruise

Departing from Lake Argyle Resort, take the Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer cruise to learn about the lake’s history, spot wildlife, enjoy refreshments and swim in the company of over 30,000 friendly freshwater crocodiles.

a crocodile lurking beneath the surface of Chamberlain River — Watch out for crocodile sightings along the Chamberlain River. (Image: Todd Smith)

Helispirit tour

Alternatively, take to the sky for a scenic helicopter tour with Helispirit that includes stopping for a swim and picnic with bubbles at one of the island’s beaches.

a helicopter soaring over Lake Argyle — Soar over Lake Argyle with Helispirit. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Lake Argyle Resort has accommodation options including Deluxe Lakeview Cabins perched over Lake Argyle, a restaurant with live entertainment, and an infinity pool that could be Australia’s most instagrammable, giving good reason to stay and play longer.

a gourmet picnic during a scenic flight with Helispirit — The scenic flight is complete with a gourmet picnic. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Cross the rough trail along Pentecost River

After lunch, I’m ready for some downtime before the last outing of the day. Sitting on the private deck of my Riverside Room, I gaze lazily into wild tropical greenery and listen to the chorus of frogs and the babble of the Pentecost River flowing gently past.

a man setting up a bonfire outside his 4WD in El Questro — Make a stopover to appreciate the majestic scenery. (Image: Sean Scott)

When late afternoon finally rolls around, so do we. Back in our 4WD, we bump across creeks and along a steep and winding section of track in search of a legendary lookout. Named in honour of former Kimberley rodeo champion, cattle driver and El Questro guide Buddy Tyson – who was known for his ability to crack a joke as fast as he could a whip – Buddy’s Point doesn’t disappoint.

a 4WD crossing the Pentecost River — Buckle up and drive across the Pentecost River. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Popping open a bottle of bubbly, we drink in 360-degree views of the glowing landscape. Silence is golden, so they say, and here – as we look out over rivers and ranges, wrapped in sunset’s blanket – that saying certainly rings true. We are lost for words as a peaceful stillness takes hold, and like the red dirt that has already begun to seep into our skin, we know that by the time we leave, a piece of the Kimberley’s heart will have found a way into our own.

a woman gazing at the sunset on top of a hill — Gaze at the golden sunset. (Image: Bonita Grima)

Preserving El Questro’s Indigenous charm

In a recently signed landmark agreement between the Western Australian Government and the Wilinggin Aboriginal Corporation (WAC), 165,000 hectares of El Questro Wilderness Park – including El Questro’s luxury homestead, its station, Chamberlain Gorge and Zebedee Springs – will be returned to the Traditional Owners of the land lying south of the Gibb River Road, the Wanjina Wungurr Wilinggin people.

an aerial shot of the El Questro's luxury homestead — El Questro’s luxury Homestead overlooks the Chamberlain River. (Image: G’day Group)

The historic Indigenous Land Use Agreement will see the pastoral lease converted to freehold and El Questro’s cattle station turned into a nature reserve, with El Questro’s current operator, the G’day Group, able to continue its tourism activities after securing a 99-year lease with Traditional Owners in November 2022.

In a win-win for all, the G’day Group has revealed it is working with the WAC to include new First Nations cultural experiences for guests, plus employment and training for local Indigenous youth. The G’day Group has also stated the agreement will allow them to build sustainability and ecotourism credentials through the improvement of water, land and waste management systems, the purchase of carbon credits from the WAC to operate with ‘net zero’ emissions, plus the removal of livestock for the restoration of the natural environment.

the El Questro homestead perched above the river — The remote settlement is perched above the river. (Image: G’day Group)

Getting there

Fly direct to Kununurra from Perth, Broome or Darwin with Virgin, Qantas or Airnorth.

Staying there

El Questro ’s season is from April to October. Accommodation includes luxury stays at The Homestead (from $2155 per night), safari-style tented cabins at Emma Gorge (from $350 per night), riverside and garden view rooms (from $395 per night) and camping (from $23 per night) at The Station.

a bedroom with balcony facing a garden view at El Questro Homestead — Be enveloped in wilderness and luxury at El Questro Homestead. (Image: Dan Avila/G’day Group)

Playing there

Take a scenic flight with Aviair over the tiger-striped domes of the Bungle Bungles in Purnululu National Park; view and buy art at Waringarri Aboriginal Arts and learn about the culture of the Miriwoong people ; and get a taste of the East Kimberley at Hoochery Distillery .

an artist focusing on creating her artwork — Artist Cathy Ward showcases her artwork. (Image: Bonita Grima)

Good to know

The best way Australians can help the Kimberley tourism sector following the January floods is to keep their bookings and visit when the time is right; popular spots including Broome, Kununurra and El Questro are ready to welcome visitors for the 2023 season.

two boab trees amidst the sunset background — The iconic boab tree is endemic to the Kimberley region. (Image: Todd Smith)

This remote corner of Australia is one of the world’s last frontiers. This is how to see it properly.

Vast, rugged and deeply spiritual, the Kimberley coast in Australia’s North West feels a world away from everyday Australia – and there are countless ways to explore it. But if you want to reach ancient rock art, hidden gorges and lonely waterfalls, it has to be by boat. Whether you’re aboard a nimble expedition vessel or a luxury yacht with all the trimmings, exploring by the water brings exclusive experiences, shows unique views and makes travel easier than any other mode. And that’s just the beginning of Australia’s North West cruises.

The True North Adventure Cruise in between sandstone cliffs. — Adventure starts where the road ends.

1. Discover Broome, and beyond

Explore your launchpad before you set sail: Broome. Here camels and their riders stride along the 22 kilometres of powdery Cable Beach at sunset. That’s just the start.

At Gantheaume Point, red pindan cliffs plunge into the turquoise sea, whose low tide uncovers fossilised dinosaur footprints. Broome’s pearling history runs deep. Japanese, Chinese, Malay and Aboriginal divers once worked these waters, and their legacy lives on in boutiques where South Sea pearls still shine.

If the moon’s right, you may catch the Staircase to the Moon over Roebuck Bay. Or simply kick back with a cold beverage and a film under the stars at Sun Pictures , screening since 1916.

Ride a camel along Cable Beach as the sun sinks into the Indian Ocean, casting golden light across the sand and sea. — Ride a camel along Cable Beach. (Image: Nick Dunn)

2. Unmatched access to The Kimberley

Once you’re onboard, expect a backstage pass to some of the most isolated places on Earth. No roads. No ports. No phone reception.

At Horizontal Falls/ Garaanngaddim, 10-metre tides surge through twin gorges like a natural waterpark ride that’ll make your palms sweat. Then there’s Montgomery Reef/ Yowjab: a giant living platform of coral and seagrass, where the sea pulls back to reveal waterfalls, sea turtles and ospreys.

Up north, King George Falls/ Oomari rage 80 metres down red cliffs. Zodiac boats often nudge in closer so you can feel the spray on your sun-warmed cheeks. You might even fly in to reach Mitchell Falls/ Punamii-unpuu, a four-tiered cascade where you can swim in freshwater pools above the drop.

Come spring, some itineraries veer west to Rowley Shoals: an atoll chain of white sand and reef walls. Then it’s up the winding Prince Regent River to King Cascade/ Maamboolbadda, tumbling over rock terraces, and into a Zodiac to view the Gwion Gwion rock art, whose slender, ochre-painted figures are older than the pyramids.

A cruise drifts beneath King George Falls, where sheer sandstone cliffs frame the thunderous plunge into turquoise waters. — Get closer to the Kimberley than ever before.

3. Taste the Kimberley with onboard hospitality

You might spend your days clambering over slippery rocks or charging past waterfalls. But when you’re back on the water, it’s a different story. Meals are chef-prepared and regionally inspired: grilled barramundi, pearl meat sashimi, mango tarts, and bush tomato chutney. One night it’s barefoot beach barbecues with your shipmates; the next, alfresco dining on the ship.

Small expedition ships each have their own personality, but many carry just 12 to 36 guests, making being out on the water a whole other experience. You might sink into a spa on the foredeck or sip coffee in a lounge while watching crocodiles cruise by. It’s choose-your-own-relaxation, Kimberley style.

4. Expert-led excursions through the Kimberley

These voyages are led by people who know the Kimberley like the back of their sunburnt hand. Attenborough-esque naturalists might gently tap your shoulder to point out rare birds or tell the story beneath a slab of rock. Historians can explain exactly how that rusted World War II relic came to rest here.

If your ship has a helipad, you might chopper straight to a waterfall-fed swimming hole. If not, you’ll still be hopping ashore for that wet landing at a secret creek.

Then come the evenings: songlines shared by Traditional Owners under the stars, or astronomy sessions that link what’s overhead with what’s underfoot and what’s within.

A small group glides through Kimberley’s rugged coastline by boat, passing ancient cliffs. — Explore with naturalists and historians by your side.

5. Relax in luxurious lodgings

Just because you’re off-grid doesn’t mean you have to rough it. These Kimberley vessels are small in size, but mighty in luxury. True North’s ships come with their own helicopters and a no-sea-days policy, so you’re always in the thick of it. Try the luxurious offerings from Ocean Dream Charters for exploration in style. Kimberley Quest offers a fast boat for easy, off-ship adventures. On the larger end of the scale, Coral Expeditions has open-deck bars and curated wine cellars. And then there’s Ponant’s luxury yachts – sleek and incredibly stylish French sailing yachts.

A helicopter soars above the sea, with a sleek cruise ship gliding in the distance. — See the Kimberley from sky to shore.

6. The adventure continues with pre- and post-cruise experiences

You’ve already come this far – so, why not go further? Broome makes it easy to ease in before you board, or wind down when your voyage ends, and there is no reason to stop there.

Head an hour and a half south to Eco Beach to stay off-grid and off the clock. Join a Yawuru guide for a mangrove walk or ocean forage. Dive even deeper into Broome’s pearling past at Willie Creek or Cygnet Bay, where divers and craftspeople still pull the seawater-slicked gems from the deep.

If you’re still craving adventure, it’s time to go further. Soar over the Buccaneer Archipelago, or detour inland with a 4WD trip along the Gibb River Road. Book a scenic flight over the Bungle Bungles. Or – because you never know when you’ll be back – do all three.

aerial of people walking on eco beach in the kimberley western australia — Stay off grid at Eco Beach. (Image: Tourism WA)

Find out more about your trip to Australia’s North West at australiasnorthwest.com .

A remarkable 4WD journey in El Questro Wilderness Park