From Laid-Back To Luxury: Exploring The Kimberley Two Ways

The Kimberley’s red landscape is iconic, but its true colours run deeper than the eye can see. From a croc cruise to wild bush luxury and cultural ceremony, the region reveals its many layers.

I’m swimming in the vast, cool waters of Lake Argyle, surrounded by domes of rock glowing that unmistakable shade of Kimberley red. This is Australia’s second largest man-made reservoir – and home to some 30,000 freshwater crocodiles. There’s a sudden splash in the water near me.

And then it surfaces: an ice-cold tinny of XXXX Gold, slung my way by skipper ‘Big Scotty’ from the stern of The Kimberley Durack. “This is Australia’s best swim-up bar," he jokes. But with the sparkling expanse of water fringed by heaving, ancient rock formations, it’s hard to disagree.

A croc-spotting cruise around Lake Argyle

swimming in Lake Argyle — Cooling off with a tinny in Lake Argyle. (Image: Tourism Australia)

I’m cruising Lake Argyle with Big Scotty and Captain Jack Furzer, learning about the geology and wildlife of this ancient landscape. “It’s among the most geologically complex on Earth," Jack tells us. “The oldest rocks here are 2 billion years old."

We’ve moored for a swim and, despite the city-sized population of resident crocs, Captain Jack has assured us that the water is safe. The freshies, he says, are timid by nature. He would know: Jack has spent years sailing these parts, and even recognises a few crocs by name.

Captain Jack Furzer, Lake Argyle — Cruising Lake Argyle with Captain Jack Furzer. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

“That’s Cheech," he’d said earlier, pointing to a sunbaking crocodilian as The Kimberley Durack pootled around the wetlands. “He’s got a girlfriend, Chong, but she’s not here right now." When I ask how he can tell them apart, he grins. “It’s all in their personality."

cruising Lake Argyle onboard The Kimberley Durack — Exploring the lake onboard The Kimberley Durack. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

We can only cover a fraction of this Hong Kong-sized lake, but we still see plenty: agile rock wallabies bounding down the cliff face, buzzards circling overhead, mighty sandstone formations so fluid-like, it seems as if they’re spilling into the lake itself.

rock wallabies by the river, Kimberley — Spot rock wallabies. (Image: Tourism Australia)

Checking into Lake Argyle’s only accommodation

an aerial view of Discovery Resorts - LakeArgyle — Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle sits atop a cliff overlooking the lake. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

There’s only one accommodation option in this remote yet spectacular reach of the Kimberley. Perched on a cliff overlooking the lake, Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle is a hub for caravanners and road trippers. But this is no ordinary holiday park. For a start, it’s got an infinity pool often named the country’s most beautiful.

view from the infinity pool at Discovery Resorts - Lake Argyle — The view from the infinity pool at Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle is considered one of the most beautiful pool vistas in the country. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

Sidling up to the pool’s rim, I flutter my legs and gaze out at the sweeping view of the lake, topaz now, although it seems to change colour throughout the day like a giant mood ring. The vista from my lakeview cabin, one of the resort’s premium options, is even better. I’d checked in just in time to settle into my private balcony and watch an orange moon rise above the cliffs like a sunset in reverse.

the balcony Deluxe Lakeview cabin at Discovery Resorts - Lake Argyle — The park’s Deluxe Lakeview cabins have expansive balconies to take it all in.

El Questro: Australia’s most remote luxury stay

Travelling west from Lake Argyle, the Kimberley’s landscape continues to reveal itself, like origami unfolding. The roads are flanked by curious, stumpy boab trees, native to this part of Australia. They’re the only species of baobab found outside Africa: a strange, tuber-like relic of ancient Gondwanaland.

aerial view of the El Questro Homestead, Kimberley — Spy salties from your cabin at El Questro Homestead. (Image: Delaware North Companies)

I’m headed for El Questro Homestead, one of the country’s most luxurious wilderness lodges. It’s secluded within El Questro wilderness park, a 165,000-hectare former cattle station that was officially returned to its Traditional Owners in 2022. On arrival, lemongrass-infused cold towels and Champagne set the tone. Here, the remoteness makes the comforts feel all the more extravagant.

the Chamberlain Suite Bedroom interior, El Questro Homestead — The luxury lodge’s station-chic interior. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

The Homestead is perched atop a gorge overlooking the Chamberlain River, where guests can keep watch for salties gliding through the malachite-green water from the comfort of their suite or by the poolside. The interiors sing with station-chic decor: all toffee leathers, cowhide rugs and exposed timber beams that nod to its pastoral past. The heart of El Questro Homestead is the lounge, where guests gather each evening for sundowners and elegant, fine dining beneath the stars. But the highlight lies in the Homestead’s all-inclusive activities calendar.

a private tub with view of the Chamberlain River, El Questro Homestead — Take in the view of the Chamberlain River from your private tub. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

Each afternoon, guests can embark on an after-hours visit to Zebedee Springs when it’s closed to the public. We cross the colour wheel as we hike in, swapping the Kimberley’s burnt-orange for a Jurassic-green jungle of prehistoric ferns.

The Zebedee Springs, El Questro — The palm-shaded Zebedee Springs. (Image: Tourism Australia)

The hot springs seep from a fault line deep beneath the Earth’s skin, the water so pure and clear it looks invisible. I sit under a small waterfall, letting the warm water massage my back: it’s a sense of serenity that no spa could replicate.

view of the wilderness park at El Questro Homestead — El Questro Homestead is secluded within the wilderness park. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

Another morning sees us tackling the park’s rugged 4WD tracks with ranger Gab Murphy, powering through epic river crossings and gunning it up hills to breathtaking lookout points. Gab points out features in the landscape, like an ancient boab tree so massive it would take more than 20 people to encircle it. But the most compelling excursions are the ones with the Ngarinyin Traditional Owners.

The Kimberley’s new Indigenous tourism experience

cruising the Chamberlain River — A cruise of the Chamberlain River is included in a stay at The Homestead. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

Standing atop a gorge overlooking the Chamberlain River, eyes closed, I hear the hypnotic murmur of a didgeridoo and the crackle of fire. Eucalyptus smoke perfumes the evening air like incense, and I feel the warmth of two hands pressing against my shoulders. “This is so your joints can be strong, to help you stand tall and proud," whispers Mary O’Reeri, a Nyul Nyul woman from the Kimberley. She releases her grip, warms her palms over the fire, and transfers the heat to my jaw, cradling my face gently.

The Munbala Cruise, Kimberley — The Munbala Cruise takes guests into sacred sites with the Traditional Owners. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

“Your voice matters," she whispers. “Use it to speak up for injustice, to be a voice for those who don’t have one". A final time, Mary cups heat from the flames and presses it to my sternum. “This is your ngiadi," she says softly. “It’s an ancient pathfinder, your deep intuition, your own personal GPS. Connect with it. Learn the beauty of who you are." When she lifts her hand, something more ineffable than warmth lingers on my skin. Mary invites me to step into the smoke billowing from the fire and let it cleanse me. I move about the haze, allowing the tendrils of smoke to swirl around me, healing my spirit as the sun dances on the river like a million golden blinks.

a Nyul Nyul woman conducting a smoke cleansing ceremony — A smoke cleansing ceremony with the Ngarinyin Traditional Owners. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

This is Injiid Marlabu Calls Us, a new addition to El Questro Homestead’s activities calendar. With a vision to deepen visitors’ connection to place, this heartfelt welcome onto Wanjina Wunggurr Country is run by Mary, her husband, Ngarinyin Traditional Owner Nelson O’Reeri, and their daughter Shonelle. This smoke cleansing ceremony, or Bijagoon, is an ancient ritual, passed down by Nelson’s grandmother Injiid, who learned it from her grandmother before her. Injiid is the namesake and inspiration behind the tour, a “mother of all mothers" who was one of the first generations to make contact with the region’s first explorers.

Learning about culture and history on Country

Shonelle, Mary and Nelson O’Reeri. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

This tour isn’t only about healing, it’s about learning, too. About the bush foods and medicines, a pantry and pharmacy to the Traditional Owners who know Country. About the extraordinary yet difficult life of Injiid. And about dark truths – the lasting damage left by the trauma of Australia’s colonial past.

“The Kimberley has one of the highest suicide rates in the world," Nelson tells us. “Every single Aboriginal family here has been impacted." He begins to pluck an acoustic guitar as the family gather round to sing a tribute to relatives they’ve lost. When Nelson sets his guitar down, nobody speaks. Silence and sorrow hang thick in the air like humidity in the wet season. “For us to heal, we have to talk about it," Nelson says.

And so we listen, as the O’Reeri family share not just the beauty of Ngarinyin culture, but the unflinching truths of the challenges their community continues to face. “Our children’s ngiadi is broken, they feel like they don’t belong," Mary says. “We’ve got solutions, we’ve got people on the ground. But we need to work together in the spirit of reconciliation."

Before we leave, the O’Reeri family perform another ritual, cleansing us with water from the Chamberlain River. Shonelle calls out to the wind, to let Country know we’re here, to look after us. Through fire, water, earth and wind, we’ve touched every element – but none more so than spirit. I still feel Mary’s handprint on my chest above where my ngiadi resides.

A traveller’s checklist

Getting there

The Gibb Road in the Kimberley — Gibb River Road runs through the heart of the Kimberley. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Qantas and Airnorth fly to Kununurra from Perth; Airnorth also flies from Darwin and Broome. From there, it’s a 45-minute drive south to Lake Argyle, and a 90-minute drive west to El Questro wilderness park.

Staying there

Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle has options ranging from campsites and powered RV spots to luxe one- and two-bedroom lakeview cabins (rates from $220 per night). There’s a bistro and bar onsite open for lunch and dinner. Breakfast is self-catered.

El Questro Homestead is a luxurious, full-board ten-suite hideaway that caters for a maximum of 20 guests at any one time. It includes, airport transfers, fine-dining meals, alcohol and activities. Rates are from $2805 per night.

Playing there

an al fresco Cliffside Dinner, Lake Argyle — The al fresco Cliffside Dinner features a bush tucker twist. (Image: Miles Brotherson)

Kimberley Durack cruises of Lake Argyle include transfers from Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle. The resort also hosts Cliffside Dinners onsite. Excursions at El Questro Homestead include Injiid Marlabu Calls Us Aboriginal Immersion, a Munbala Cruise of the Chamberlain River with the Traditional Owners, exclusive use of Zebedee Springs each afternoon, Bush Natives and Nature 4WD tour and more.

This remote corner of Australia is one of the world’s last frontiers. This is how to see it properly.

Vast, rugged and deeply spiritual, the Kimberley coast in Australia’s North West feels a world away from everyday Australia – and there are countless ways to explore it. But if you want to reach ancient rock art, hidden gorges and lonely waterfalls, it has to be by boat. Whether you’re aboard a nimble expedition vessel or a luxury yacht with all the trimmings, exploring by the water brings exclusive experiences, shows unique views and makes travel easier than any other mode. And that’s just the beginning of Australia’s North West cruises.

The True North Adventure Cruise in between sandstone cliffs. — Adventure starts where the road ends.

1. Discover Broome, and beyond

Explore your launchpad before you set sail: Broome. Here camels and their riders stride along the 22 kilometres of powdery Cable Beach at sunset. That’s just the start.

At Gantheaume Point, red pindan cliffs plunge into the turquoise sea, whose low tide uncovers fossilised dinosaur footprints. Broome’s pearling history runs deep. Japanese, Chinese, Malay and Aboriginal divers once worked these waters, and their legacy lives on in boutiques where South Sea pearls still shine.

If the moon’s right, you may catch the Staircase to the Moon over Roebuck Bay. Or simply kick back with a cold beverage and a film under the stars at Sun Pictures , screening since 1916.

Ride a camel along Cable Beach as the sun sinks into the Indian Ocean, casting golden light across the sand and sea. — Ride a camel along Cable Beach. (Image: Nick Dunn)

2. Unmatched access to The Kimberley

Once you’re onboard, expect a backstage pass to some of the most isolated places on Earth. No roads. No ports. No phone reception.

At Horizontal Falls/ Garaanngaddim, 10-metre tides surge through twin gorges like a natural waterpark ride that’ll make your palms sweat. Then there’s Montgomery Reef/ Yowjab: a giant living platform of coral and seagrass, where the sea pulls back to reveal waterfalls, sea turtles and ospreys.

Up north, King George Falls/ Oomari rage 80 metres down red cliffs. Zodiac boats often nudge in closer so you can feel the spray on your sun-warmed cheeks. You might even fly in to reach Mitchell Falls/ Punamii-unpuu, a four-tiered cascade where you can swim in freshwater pools above the drop.

Come spring, some itineraries veer west to Rowley Shoals: an atoll chain of white sand and reef walls. Then it’s up the winding Prince Regent River to King Cascade/ Maamboolbadda, tumbling over rock terraces, and into a Zodiac to view the Gwion Gwion rock art, whose slender, ochre-painted figures are older than the pyramids.

A cruise drifts beneath King George Falls, where sheer sandstone cliffs frame the thunderous plunge into turquoise waters. — Get closer to the Kimberley than ever before.

3. Taste the Kimberley with onboard hospitality

You might spend your days clambering over slippery rocks or charging past waterfalls. But when you’re back on the water, it’s a different story. Meals are chef-prepared and regionally inspired: grilled barramundi, pearl meat sashimi, mango tarts, and bush tomato chutney. One night it’s barefoot beach barbecues with your shipmates; the next, alfresco dining on the ship.

Small expedition ships each have their own personality, but many carry just 12 to 36 guests, making being out on the water a whole other experience. You might sink into a spa on the foredeck or sip coffee in a lounge while watching crocodiles cruise by. It’s choose-your-own-relaxation, Kimberley style.

4. Expert-led excursions through the Kimberley

These voyages are led by people who know the Kimberley like the back of their sunburnt hand. Attenborough-esque naturalists might gently tap your shoulder to point out rare birds or tell the story beneath a slab of rock. Historians can explain exactly how that rusted World War II relic came to rest here.

If your ship has a helipad, you might chopper straight to a waterfall-fed swimming hole. If not, you’ll still be hopping ashore for that wet landing at a secret creek.

Then come the evenings: songlines shared by Traditional Owners under the stars, or astronomy sessions that link what’s overhead with what’s underfoot and what’s within.

A small group glides through Kimberley’s rugged coastline by boat, passing ancient cliffs. — Explore with naturalists and historians by your side.

5. Relax in luxurious lodgings

Just because you’re off-grid doesn’t mean you have to rough it. These Kimberley vessels are small in size, but mighty in luxury. True North’s ships come with their own helicopters and a no-sea-days policy, so you’re always in the thick of it. Try the luxurious offerings from Ocean Dream Charters for exploration in style. Kimberley Quest offers a fast boat for easy, off-ship adventures. On the larger end of the scale, Coral Expeditions has open-deck bars and curated wine cellars. And then there’s Ponant’s luxury yachts – sleek and incredibly stylish French sailing yachts.

A helicopter soars above the sea, with a sleek cruise ship gliding in the distance. — See the Kimberley from sky to shore.

6. The adventure continues with pre- and post-cruise experiences

You’ve already come this far – so, why not go further? Broome makes it easy to ease in before you board, or wind down when your voyage ends, and there is no reason to stop there.

Head an hour and a half south to Eco Beach to stay off-grid and off the clock. Join a Yawuru guide for a mangrove walk or ocean forage. Dive even deeper into Broome’s pearling past at Willie Creek or Cygnet Bay, where divers and craftspeople still pull the seawater-slicked gems from the deep.

If you’re still craving adventure, it’s time to go further. Soar over the Buccaneer Archipelago, or detour inland with a 4WD trip along the Gibb River Road. Book a scenic flight over the Bungle Bungles. Or – because you never know when you’ll be back – do all three.

aerial of people walking on eco beach in the kimberley western australia — Stay off grid at Eco Beach. (Image: Tourism WA)