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This Kimberley tour comes with a silent guideand that’s the point

Credit: Ben Broady

Paying for a guide who doesn’t talk to you and leaves you alone in the bush? Yes please.

I’m kneeling on rusted rock at the base of a splintering waterfall in WA’s Kimberley, and my guide is walking away from me. The crunch of his hiking boots softens as the distance between us grows, until I can no longer see his knees bending over the golden grasses. Perhaps I should feel alarmed at this apparent abandonment in the tropical outback, way further from human life than a cooee will travel? But, no. Instead, I sense whole-body peace.

I’m the sole guest on a half-day Silent Tour, an Eco-Star-accredited cruise and walk experience where the usual reel-off of facts and figures, landmarks and species is consciously avoided.

“I like to leave guests plenty of time to use their senses to observe, and I try not to overload people with too much information," says Steve Stevets, a qualified nature therapist guide. He gives his guests permission to just be. No obligation to make conversation, be engaging, to entertain the other. It seems fitting in a place where the sense of calm is as big as the landscape.

kimberley silent tours
Taking time out from talking and civilisation on an eco-electric boat in the Kimberley. (Credit: Fleur Bainger)

Steve moved to Kununurra 18 years ago, not as a guide but as a dietitian. He’d followed his pharmacist parents into the health sector. “I taught people healthy lifestyles, but I realised 90 per cent of them had stress and that’s what influences their food choices," he says. Steve wondered what he could do differently. “I found when I was out bush, my stress levels came down. I looked into the science and there’s a ton of research on the benefits of being in nature."

I step into his take on wellness as I slide into his vessel, a quiet eco-electric boat that’s powered by the very waterway we’re travelling on. The Ord River’s hydro turbines churn water that snakes for 650 kilometres, providing green power for the whole of Wyndham and Kununurra. It feeds the cotton fields that seem to inspire the clouds in a giant, cornflower blue sky.

Pelican Rock kimberley
Stunning reflections at Pelican Rock. (Credit: Steve Stevets)
silent tours waterfall
Relish the peace with Silent Tours on a walk to a waterfall. (Credit: Ben Broady)
Herbies Waterfall
Wet season brings to life cascades such as Herbies Waterfall. (Credit: Steve Stevets)

I get that much out of Steve, as I battle feeling quietly perturbed. My default is excited chatter, teamed with an inner-nerd hunger for data. It’s unsettling that the usual supply isn’t forthcoming. Yet as we coast beside a city skyline of blocky red rock – its facets crumpled like paper – the hush becomes easier and, eventually, freeing.

We glide into a leafy crevasse and hike softly through a pandanus thicket edged by reeds. A narrow dirt track serpentines this way and that, as a babbling brook emits tonal sounds like a saturated pipe organ. Butterflies and moths flutter from their camouflage like black confetti and a barking owl calls. Would I notice all this, normally?

We arrive at a spring known as Herbie’s Hideaway. Wading in, the 19°C water feels colder as my hot and humid skin cools. A 40-metre waterfall’s shards caress my face, and underfoot, it’s clear enough to see rocks. This is where Steve leaves me, drying off.

kimberley tour in nature
Kick back in nature. (Credit: Fleur Bainger)

When he returns 10 minutes later, I’ve barely moved, staring in a state of awe, free from distraction. In today’s busy, expensive existence, we think we have to suck everything dry, wring out the last ounce of value, make the most of everything. But there’s another way. A silent tour might just be how we find it.

Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.

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The details

ord river kimberley
The tour explores the Ord River by boat and foot. (Credit: Ben Broady)

Tour: Half-day Electric Ord River Eco Cruise, departing morning and afternoon. Tours are customisable and available for a maximum of four guests.

Route: Departing Lily Creek Lagoon in Kununurra and heading up the Ord River

When to go: Bookings are available all year, however it is very hot from November to December. Waterfall tours run from January to April depending on wet season rainfall.

Price: $330pp + $100 discount for direct group bookings of four people ($305pp)

Where to book: Silent Tours

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Fleur Bainger
Fleur Bainger is a freelance travel writer and journalism mentor who has been contributing to Australian Traveller since 2009! The thrill of discovering new, hidden and surprising things is what ignites her. She gets a buzz from sharing these adventures with readers, so their travels can be equally transformative.
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The ultimate Margaret River road trip itinerary for food & wine lovers

    Monique Ceccato Monique Ceccato
    Time your visit to Margaret River just right, and you can spend the ultimate weekend wining, dining and exploring the region with Pair’d Margaret River Region x Range Rover.

    Wine, world-class produce, surf, sun and beaches: it’s an alluring combination. And the reason so many pin the Margaret River region high on their travel hit-lists. There’s drawcard after drawcard to the southwestern corner of Western Australia, and the Pair’d Margaret River Region x Range Rover food and wine festival showcases the best of it over the course of one weekend in November. It’s never been easier to sip, see and savour the Margaret River region.

    In partnership with Pair’d Margaret River Region, Range Rover invites you on a seven-day itinerary of refined adventure, where luxury and exploration go hand in hand. It’s the perfect WA road trip, and there’s no better way to do it than in a Range Rover.

    Day 1

    the pool at Pullman Bunker Bay
    Check into Pullman Bunker Bay.

    There’s no more popular West Australian road trip route than that between Perth and the Margaret River Region. It’s an easily digestible, three-hour drive, with worthy pit stops along the way.

    Make the first of them one hour and 15 minutes in, at Lake Clifton. Here, find a 2000-year-old living thrombolite reef. Drive for a further 40 minutes and chance meeting some of Bunbury’s dolphin population at Koombana Bay.

    Pullman Bunker Bay is the final stop, just over three hours south of Perth. This beachfront, five-star resort is the ultimate base for exploring the Margaret River Wine region.

    Day 2

    After a leisurely morning breakfast with an ocean view, start your Range Rover and head towards the Dunsborough town centre. Browsing the decidedly coastal-themed goods of the town’s many independent boutiques is a great way to while away the hours, breaking up the sartorial with an artisan gelato snack stop, or some good old-fashioned Australian bakery fare.

    Leave room; you’ll need it for the Good Natured Gathering dinner at Wayfinder. Indulge in a four-course feast by chef Felipe Montiel, which uses produce from the winery’s market garden to enhance a selection of sustainably sourced seafood and meat. But food is just the support act. It’s organic wine that’s the star of the show, generously poured and expertly paired to each dish.

    Day 3

    Settle in for cabernet at Cape Mentelle Winery.

    With a grand total of 20 wines from vintage 2022 to try, it’s a good thing Cape Mentelle’s International Cabernet Tasting kicks off early. Make your way to the estate for a 10:00 AM start, where a global selection of wines will be poured blind, before a long lunch by Tiller Dining is served.

    Given that the Margaret River is responsible for more than 20 per cent of Australia’s fine wine production, it’s only right to delve into it while in the area.

    Continue exploring the region via taste and terroir aboard Alison Maree, a whale-watching catamaran, as you cruise Geographe Bay. Admire the rolling green hills and crisp white beaches of Quindalup in sunset’s golden light, all the while sipping through the Clairault Streicker catalogue and dining on canapes.

    For a more substantial dinner, venture into Busselton for a seven-course British x Australian mash-up, courtesy of Brendan Pratt (Busselton Pavilion) and Oliver Kent (Updown Farmhouse, UK). They’ll be putting their rustic yet refined spin on the likes of local marron, wagyu and abalone – championing the simple beauty of the world-class ingredients.

    Day 4

    Pair'd Beach Club
    Elevate your dining experiences at Pair’d X Range Rover Beach Club.

    Wrap your fingers around a wine glass and wiggle your toes into the sand at Pair’d Beach Club x Range Rover on Meelup Beach. Sit down to an intimate wine session with sommelier Cyndal Petty – or a four-course feast by Aaron Carr of Yarri – and revel in the open-air beach club, bar and restaurant’s laidback coastal vibe. It’s a whole new way to experience one of the region’s most renowned beaches.

    Follow up a day in the sun with a casual Italian party at Mr Barvel Wines. Purchase wines –including the elusive, sold-out Nebbia – by the glass and enjoy canapes with the towering Karri forest as a backdrop.

    If you’d prefer to keep it local, head to Skigh Wines for the New Wave Gathering, where the region’s independent wine makers and their boundary-pushing wines will be on show. Street-style eats, a DJ and complimentary wine masterclasses complete the experience.

    Day 5

    pair'd Grand Tasting
    Taste your way through Howard Park Wines. (Image: C J Maddock)

    Spend the morning at your leisure, driving the winding roads through the Boranup Karri forest in your Range Rover. Soak in the views at Contos Beach, and call into the small cheese, chocolate and preserve producers along the way.

    Make your next stop Howard Park Wines for The Grand Tasting presented by Singapore Airlines. Numerous wine labels will be pouring their catalogues over four hours, accompanied by food from chefs Matt Moran and Silvia Colloca, with live opera providing the soundtrack.

    Cap off a big weekend with one last hurrah at Busselton Pavilion. Six ‘local legends’ – chefs Brendan Pratt (Busselton Pavilion), Mal Chow (Chow’s Table), Aaron Carr (Yarri), Ben Jacob (Lagoon Yallingup), Corey Rozario (Dahl Daddies) and Laura Koentjoro (Banksia Tavern) – will be preparing a dish each. Dance the night away as vinyl spins and the sun sets on another day.

    Day 6

    Ngilgi Cave western australia
    Head underground. (Image: Tourism WA)

    After a busy few days of wining and dining, it’s wise to observe a rest day. There’s no easier task than unwinding in the Margaret River Region, also famous for its high concentration of world-class beaches.

    Relax on the grassy knoll as you watch the region’s most experienced surfers braving the World Surf League break at Surfer’s Point, or don your own wetsuit and try out one of Gracetown’s more beginner-friendly waves. Swimmers will find their Eden at Meelup Beach, Eagle Bay, or Point Piquet, where the sand is brilliantly white and the water as still as a backyard swimming pool.

    Not into sun, sand, and surf? Head underground at Mammoth Cave, just one of the region’s many stalactite-filled caves.

    Day 7

    Burnt Ends event at Pair'd
    Farewell the Margaret River.

    Pack up your Range Rover with new favourite wines and newfound memories, ready for the three-hour journey back to Perth.

    Prebook your discovery journey through the south-west corner of Western Australia with Pair’d Margaret River Region x Range Rover.

    Pair’d Margaret River Region is proudly owned by the Western Australian Government, through Tourism WA.