We tackled the beautiful canyons of Karijini in the Pilbara last year. Here he describes why it’s a must for outback adventurers.
UPDATE: As of January 2021, West Oz Active Adventure Tours made the difficult decision to close the business due to the impact of the global pandemic and are no longer offering tours.
1. What’s so special about the Karijini canyons?
Karijini is renowned for its older-than-animals geology and colours that feel like they have no place in one of the harshest environments on Earth. But what the vibrant image on this page doesn’t convey is the ancient, intangible energy – almost personality – that each of the gorges radiates. It’s like they’re trying to communicate with you.
Karijini sits in the heart of iron-ore country, which lends the landscape its rusty red blue (photo: Jonathan Cami).
2. Is it tough negotiating the gorges?
Many of the gorges, like Dales and Joffre, can be accessed by a (fairly energetic) walk down from their respective car parks. To go deeper (with canyoning operator West OZ Active) you will have to clamber, climb, abseil and swim (with a life jacket and inner-tube). You’ll need to be of reasonable fitness (or better), with no lingering injuries or morbid fears of heights or tight spaces.
Evenings above ground in Karijini (photo: Jonathan Cami).
3. How much time do you spend in the water?
Canyoning by its nature follows the natural water course so you’ll be in and out of streams, pools and creeks all day, albeit in a thick wetsuit and boots. You even get to abseil straight down a waterfall and slide (a few metres) off another.
Centuries-old paperbarks survive wild torrents every wet season (photo: Jonathan Cami).
4. Is there a cultural significance to this area?
Karijini has an intense cultural significance to the Banyjima, Yinhawangka and Kurrama peoples. The gorges acted as ancient meeting places and sheltered sacred sites so you’re encouraged to show respect; keep the noise down, don’t go where you shouldn’t and don’t remove anything.
The ochre magnificence of Joffre Gorge, Karijini National Park.
5. What natural history do you encounter?
The rock here is some of the oldest exposed anywhere in the world. Too old for animal fossils, but not for stromatolites, the oldest known fossils going, comprised of former towers of symbiotic microbes. Tackle Karijini’s canyons yourself.
Discover the perfect road trip stopover between Perth and wine country.
Western Australia punches above its weight when it comes to coastal hot spots, but no other town or city has seen a tourism boom quite like Mandurah. Named Australia’s Top Tourism Town in 2023, it’s the relaxed, beachside break you’ve been searching for. And it’s perfectly placed, sitting between Margaret River and Perth, as it’s just a 55-minute drive from Perth’s CBD. Which is why we’ve put together your ultimate Mandurah guide.
Plan your perfect coastal escape to Australia’s Top Tourism Town of 2023.
The best things to do in Mandurah
Wetlands and rivers, ocean and inlet; Mandurah’s laid-back lifestyle centres around the aquatic. Its waterways cover twice the ground of Sydney Harbour – measuring some 134 square kilometres in total – and form a unique environment for oceanic and estuarine flora and fauna to thrive.
In the city’s estuary lives perhaps the region’s most famed inhabitants – a resident pod of 100 bottlenose dolphins – and the inlet’s silty bottom is home to the prized blue manna crab. Spot the former breaching and playing on an hour-long dolphin cruise through the channels, or try your hand at catching the latter by wading through the estuary’s shallows with a scoop net in hand.
While swimming at the circular Kwillena Gabi Pool, chance encounters with the local wildlife aren’t uncommon. The sheltered estuarine pool takes its name from the traditional custodians of the land, the Bindjareb people, and directly translates to ‘dolphin waters’. Jutting out of the eastern foreshore, it’s enclosed by a ring of net-free floating pontoons, which allow the dolphins to swim freely through the attraction.
If that’s a little too close for comfort, book a kayak tour withDown Under Discoveries. The dolphins have been known to cruise beside the paddle-powered crafts, which are a fun, family-friendly way to explore the city’s inner waterways.
Watch dolphins glide by as you explore Mandurah.
You don’t have to be on the water to appreciate the coastal city’s aquatic beauty, with 600 kilometres of cycleways and scenic walking trails traversing Mandurah’s estuary, inlet and coast.
Follow the 30-kilometre coastal trail and you’ll come face to face with one of Thomas Dambo’s headline-making ‘Giants of Mandurah sculptures, Santi Ikto, along the way. There are five sculptures around Mandurah in total, hidden among gum-filled reserves or sitting sentry over the water.
Head to the Mandurah Visitor Centre to pick up a map to pinpoint their exact location and download the traveller’s companion to learn more about the sights along the way. Or join a three-hour e-bike tour from The Bike Kiosk and you’ll stop by two of the giants – Santi Ikto and Yaburgurt Winjan Cirkelstone – as you sightsee central Mandurah.
Meet Santi Ikto, one of the legendary Giants of Mandurah.
Where to eat in Mandurah
Mandurah’s culinary scene reflects its laid-back lifestyle, with large, honest meals and locally brewed beer. After visiting Lake Clifton’s 2000-year-old thrombolites, head to the peppermint and gum-shaded beer garden at Thorny Devil Brewery. Tuck into a platter of house-smoked meats and an ale pulled fresh from the tanks. Closer to town and right on the waterfront is Boundary Island Brewery; here, woodfired pizza, pub-style seafood dishes and easy-drinking brews are centre stage.
On a Murray River Lunch Cruise, the focus is as much on the environment around you as the food you’re filling up on. Help yourself to the colourful salads and freshly cooked meats on the buffet as you meander up the winding, jarrah tree-lined waterway, stopping at the heritage Cooper’s Mill for a quick walking tour along the way.
Keep your eyes trained on the Creery Wetlands as you pass – you’ll spot much of the region’s migratory birdlife, and, as always, might see the playful bottlenose dolphins in the inlet.
The most memorable meals aren’t necessarily always the fanciest, and lunch aboard a self-skippered Mandurah BBQ Boat is a testament to that. All food and beverage prep is left up to you as you cruise through the canals, sausages and steaks sizzling away on the central hot plate.
If seafood is more your kind of fare, board the Wild Seafood Experience, where dolphin cruise meets long table lunch. Eight courses of crab, crayfish and scallops await.
Dine on the water with eight courses of ocean-fresh fare.
Where to stay in Mandurah
With so many waterways comes abundant waterside stays. Like the self-contained Seashells Mandurah on the shores of Comet Bay. The calm, oceanic outlook from the one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments and villas is as close to Maldivian as Mandurah gets. Families especially enjoy the property, bouncing between the protected cove and the beachfront pool for endless hours of fun.
Stay right by the sea.
The Sebel Mandurah , just a hop, skip and jump from the Mandurah Ocean Marina, has a different outlook entirely, overlooking the estuary and lively foreshore on the other side. It’s also within walking distance of the Mandurah Performing Arts Centre, cinema and a swathe of waterfront bars and eateries.
But you can’t get any closer to the water than on a vessel from Mandurah Houseboats. You don’t need a skipper’s ticket to hire one, nor do you need comprehensive boating experience; just a full driver’s license and your undivided attention during the pre-departure tuition will do. Then you’re free to take to the estuaries and tributaries for a few nights of peaceful rest, surrounded by the very element that makes Mandurah so special.
Captain a houseboat to explore Mandurah at your own pace.
