How To Spend A Weekend In Esperance

West of the Great Australian Bight, Esperance is almost too beautiful to bear. And it’s just far away enough to ensure it stays that way. Explores the town’s island archipelago, astonishingly white beaches and shift towards all things wellbeing.

I didn’t think any parts of Australia were snake-free. But a little island across from the isolated seaside town of Esperance makes that claim. There are still sense-jolting rustles and leaf crackles on Woody Island, but the creatures making them have legs: it’s a haven for quail, geckos and skinks.

The only ones on the beach at Cape Le Grand

Armed with this knowledge, my bush hike to suggestively named Skinny Dip Bay switches from one of high alert to a safe and meditative wandering past slender eucalypt woodland, to a secluded corner of granite boulders tumbling gently into the sea. All alone, I feel at peace in this raw, yet friendly environment.

Woody Island is one in a chain of 105 isles making up Esperance’s dazzling Recherche Archipelago, and it’s the only one you can stay on. In the 1940s it became a leisure getaway and sheep-grazing site for the harbour’s tugboat owner until it was transformed into a protected nature reserve. Day trippers began popping over in the ’70s and the first, basic camping facilities were added in the ’80s. Until recently, solar-powered stays were decidedly spartan, but a recent overhaul that saw the arrival of balconied, interior-styled, ‘luxury retreat’ tents has opened up this little secret like never before.

HeliSpirit chopper to Woody Island; — HeliSpirit chopper to Woody Island

I rock up with requisite pizzazz, in a sexy red helicopter that lands on a granite mound beside gently lapping ocean. My route here is scenic, too, taking in Esperance’s lengthy esplanade, lined with 130-year-old Norfolk pines so tall and muscular they resemble lighthouses. Banking east, we zoom over Cape Le Grand National Park and its iconic Lucky Bay, the blindingly white stretch where kangaroos come to sunbathe and powdery sand squeaks underfoot. Every beach is astonishingly white, actually, with Esperance regularly splitting hairs with Shoalhaven’s Hyams Beach and the Whitsundays’ Whitehaven Beach over whose sand is whitest (of course, Lucky Bay claims to be the winner).

What Woody Island misses out on in the sand stakes – there’s barely any – it makes up for with wilderness. Birds create a constant symphony, she-oaks whisper in the wind and, as I plunge into the glass-clear ocean, dozens of fish jump from the water’s surface, their silver skins glinting in the sun. It’s brisk in the water this far south, but seaweed wafting undersea reveals geometric patterns, filigree stems and parrotfish, so I snorkel for as long as I can (there’s a Perspex-bottomed kayak for cold-adverse guests).

By sundown, I hike to Twiggy’s Landing, named after a pet Labrador lost at sea who turned up here three months later. I sit and search for returning shearwaters and little penguins emerging from the coastal scrub. Save for a couple sitting on the rocks below, I’m the only one around. On the way back, I explore further and find a bench seat with a plaque dedicated to “Tom, who loved the birds and quiet places".

Cape Le Grand is a blissfully isolated national park

Island life is hard to part with, but Esperance calls me back. Of late, the town has been fashioning itself as a wellness getaway, a place to reconnect with nature’s beauty with a side of yoga or a main of homegrown produce. That it’s well off the beaten track adds to its offering – were Esperance nearer to a big metropolis (it’s nearly 700 kilometres from Perth but only a 1.5-hour flight), it would be overrun; instead, its easy pace allows mindfulness to settle easily across the shoulders.

Staying in the white-on-white, fairy-light strung Esperance Chalet Village also helps. The collection of A-frames cuddled by landscaped native gardens beside a stream couldn’t be more calming if it tried. Hammocks hang between tree trunks, white slatted Hamptons-style chairs cluster around fire pits and a very Instagrammable black Creek House hosts regular Pilates sessions. Beneath a huge statement light crafted from local abalone shells by the owner’s husband, I stretch and reach, wishing I was more rubber band and less bowl of jelly. Lithe Lisa Nicolaisen of Body Pulse Pilates says she started offering the thrice-weekly classes after noticing that Esperance’s holidaymakers were increasingly seeking wellness experiences. After running her first retreat in April, she hopes to hold more.

Village owner Fiona Shillington is evidence of another Esperance trend: that of long-departed locals returning to roost. The truckie’s daughter moved away at 18, working in publicity at Channel 9 and Foxtel before she and her futures trader-turned-renovator husband and kids moved back in 2014. They bought the village on a whim and now manage 17 chalets, shacks, cabins and a cottage. “Tourism is in its infancy here and there’s so much scope," she says. “The wellness space has been taking off. A lot of people love the sense of space and pristine environment and that there’s no one here. Even at the most popular beaches, like Twilight, you’re only sharing the sand with 15 others. To suck the clean sea air in is breathtaking."

Like countless other locals I meet, Fiona names the national park 30 minutes’ drive out of town as a favourite escape. “I still go to Cape Le Grand and unwind, I never tire of it," she says. “Climbing up Frenchman Peak, you feel on top of the world. It’s just beautiful, especially super early at sunrise; you can just lose everyone and the three-kilometre track is pretty easy going."

While not strictly wellness (although we’re sure we can spin it), Fiona also tips a visit to the smallest distillery in Australia, Esperance Distilling Co. There, FIFO (fly-in-fly-out) electrician David Price and his son James McCarthy-Price, another recently returned local, are tinkering away with their new 30-litre still – an upgrade from the 2l-litre unit they launched with in late 2020. The duo have combined David’s love of bush tucker with James’s environmental engineering qualifications and the time they’ve both spent in remote communities to create a sustainable gin brewed with native botanicals such as acacia and lemon myrtle. They’re currently experimenting with grass tree sap and strawberry gum, ethically foraged by a local Aboriginal woman, as well as kelp from Woody Island and sea parsley from Broome.

As David plays with flavours, James calculates the distillery’s carbon footprint; they aim to totally decarbonise the distillery as it grows.
Sustainability is also front and centre at Lucky Bay Brewing, a convivial shed filled with upcycled furniture and shiny tanks on Esperance’s outskirts. It claims to be the only brewery in Australia to use predominantly raw – rather than imported malted – barley, which requires far less energy and water. Agricultural researcher turned brewer Nigel Metz pioneered the process, enabling him to source grains from neighbouring farms. The frankly excellent beers are brewed with rainwater and zero preservatives – a green focus enforced by his environmental scientist partner, Robyn Cail. Fiercely passionate about the community, the pair create one-offs for regional towns and events.

Devout eco leaning is fitting in a place of such exceptional natural beauty. I’ve no time to head out to Esperance’s other main attraction, an otherworldly fuchsia-pink lake on Middle Island, but I fit in a trip along the 40-kilometre Great Ocean Drive to the west of town (parallel to a brilliant new bike trail), where perhaps the most spectacular white beaches laze. I stop at Blue Haven, a protected cove of translucent blue water and inhale deeply. In this moment, time slows and these few days away feel like a week. I leave restored but dreaming of my return. Soon.

Getting there

Rex Airlines flies from Perth to Esperance.

Staying there

Book into the Insta-friendly, whitewashed, succulent-adorned Esperance Chalet Village . esperancechaletvillage.com.au On Woody Island, choose from glamping tents (couples only), family-friendly safari huts or family or standard pitched tents.

Eating there

Dine on WA prawn pasta at Taylor St Quarters and find excellent coffee at DownTown Espresso Bar. For other-level baked goods, seek out town secret, Bread Local which is open from 3pm to 5.30pm on Fridays only for picking up orders placed throughout the week.

Playing there

Arrive in style on Woody Island on a scenic helicopter flight with HeliSpirit and return by ferry.

From thundering waterfalls to ancient Indigenous art, Kimberley’s raw beauty will take your breath away.

Wild, pristine, and shaped by nature, the Kimberley Coast is one of Australia’s most spectacular landscapes. A remote and rugged frontier that remains a bucket list destination for many travellers. Its most breathtaking attractions – including Montgomery Reef, King George Falls and Horizontal Falls – are accessible only by sea or air, making a guided expedition cruise aboard Silversea’s luxury expedition ship, Silver Cloud, the ideal way to explore it.

From its intricate intertidal zones to ancient rock art, extreme tides and rare wildlife found nowhere else in Australia – or the world – this journey offers an unparalleled exploration of one of Earth’s last true wildernesses.

Why Silversea?

Silversea offers a 10-day expedition departing Broome, or an extended 16-day expedition voyage from Indonesia, including landings on the hidden gems of Palopo Sulawesi and Komodo. Accompanied by expert guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology, guests gain a deeper understanding of the Kimberley’s dramatic landscapes, rich cultural heritage and extraordinary biodiversity.

Silversea offers one of the experiential travel industry’s leading crew-to-guest ratios. Along with all-suite accommodation (80 per cent with private verandah), 24-hour butler service, a swimming pool and four dining options. Silver Cloud also has an experienced crew of multilingual expedition guides and specialists in marine biology, history and geology to enhance your Kimberley Experience.

silversea cruise ship pool deck — Take a dip in the pool deck.

1. Koolama Bay

Before visitors see King George Falls, they hear them – a growing rumble in the distance, steady and foreboding as the Zodiac glides through the gorge, the sound echoing off sheer rock formations. At 80 meters tall, the twin cascades carve through the red cliffs, churning the waters below in a spectacular finale – but Koolama Bay holds secrets beyond its striking scenery.

Named after a ship that beached here following an aerial attack by Japanese bombers in World War II, the bay may seem desolate, yet it teems with life. With Silversea’s expert guides on their 10-day Kimberley itinerary, guests gain a sharper eye for its hidden wonders – rock wallabies darting across the cliffs, crocodiles lurking among dense green mangroves, and high above, the silhouette of a bird of prey circling the sky.

King George Falls at koolama bay excursion on Silversea Kimberley Cruise — Take a shore excursion to see King George Falls.

2. Freshwater Cove / Wijingarra Butt Butt

Connect with Country on a wet landing at Freshwater Cove, also known as Wijingarra Butt Butt. Considered one of the most special experiences on both the 16-day and 10-day Kimberley cruises, Silversea guests are welcomed by the traditional Indigenous custodians of the land, painted with traditional ochre, and invited to take part in a smoking ceremony.

Located on the mainland near Montgomery Reef, Wijingarra Butt Butt holds deep cultural significance to the local Indigenous community. Here, rock formations along the shore represent spiritual ancestors, and guests are guided to a nearby rock overhang filled with ancient art, where traditional owners share the stories and meaning behind these sacred paintings.

welcome to country on freshwater cove during silversea kimberley cruise — Take part in a smoking ceremony. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

3. Vansittart Bay (Jar Island)

Modern history, ancient culture and mystery converge in Vansittart Bay, which is also known as Jar Island. Here, the first thing to catch the eye is the dented, silver fuselage of a World War II-era C-53 plane – a striking relic of the past. Yet, the true cultural treasures lie just a short hike away where two distinct styles of Indigenous rock art – Gwion Gwion and Wandjina – can be found.

The Wandjina figures, deeply connected to Indigenous traditions, stand in stark contrast to the enigmatic Gwion Gwion (Bradshaw) paintings, which date back more than 12,000 years. Significantly different in form and style, the two different styles create a striking juxtaposition, offering a rare glimpse into the region’s rich and complex past.

aerial view of Vansittart Bay, See it in you Silversea Kimberley Cruise. — Explore ancient Gwion Gwion rock art at Vansittart Bay. (Image: Janelle Lugge)

4. Horizontal Falls

Part illusion, part natural phenomenon, the Kimberley’s much-lauded Horizontal Falls aren’t a waterfall, but a tidal and geographic spectacle that visitors have to see to comprehend. Known as Garaanngaddim, the phenomenon occurs when seawater rushes through two narrow gaps- one just twenty metres wide, and the other seven metres in width, between the escarpments of Talbot Bay.

With each tidal shift, the force of the water creates whirlpools, furious currents and the illusion of a horizontal cascade as thousands of gallons of water are pushed and pulled in through the gap every six hours with relentless movement, making this one of the Kimberley ’s most mesmerising natural wonders.

Horizontal Falls are described as "One of the greatest wonders of the natural world". They are formed from a break in-between the McLarty Ranges reaching up to 25m in width. The natural phenomenon is created as seawater builds up faster on one side of the gaps than the other, creating a waterfall up to 5m high on a King tide. — Watch whirlpools and furious currents collide. (Image: Janelle Lugge)

5. Montgomery Reef

As the tide turns in Montgomery Reef, magic happens. With the Kimberley’s legendary tides varying up to ten metres, at low tide the submerged reef almost appears to rise from the depths: exposing up to four metres of the sandstone reef.

The impact is otherworldly: as the water drains, waterfalls cascade on either side of the channel, turtles left exposed scramble and dive, and fish leap in search of sanctuary in shallow pools. Meanwhile, the dinner bell rings for the migratory seabirds dugongs, reef sharks and dolphins that scavenge and feast in the area.

Using zodiacs, guests cruise through one of the world’s most significant inshore reef systems navigated by experienced guides, exploring the most intricate and fascinating parts of a 300-square-kilometre-wide biodiversity hotspot.

aerial view of boat going along Montgomery Reef — Witness seabirds, dolphins and reef sharks on the hunt.

6. Mitchell Falls by Helicopter

Experiencing the Kimberley by sea allows you to feel the power of the tides, but travelling by helicopter reveals the sandstone tapestry of the Kimberley, a landscape geologists believe is over 1.8 billion years old.

One of Silversea’s most popular optional excursions , guests who opt to fly into the interior from the onboard helipad soar up above the rust-coloured landscape of the Mitchell plateau, taking in one of Australia’s most scenic waterfalls: Mitchell Falls, a series of four emerald-coloured pools gently cascades into each other, before plunging down to the river below.

Seeing the landscape from above reveals a landscape weaved and shaped by the power of the freshwater wet season, juxtaposed to the constant lapping of the relentless and powerful tide on the coast.

aerial view of mitchell falls on silversea helicopter excursion — See emerald pools cascade into the river below. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

7. Indigenous Art Caves, Wandjina Art

The Kimberley Region of Western Australia is home to some of the most striking and significant

Indigenous rock art in Australia. Dotted throughout the landscape are caves, cliffs and rock overhangs depicting the striking, ethereal image of Wandjina, the rainmaker spirit and creation being central to many of the Dreamtime stories in this region.

Some of the paintings are regularly repainted by traditional custodians, while others are believed to be over 4,000 years old. Each artwork serves as both a cultural record and a living connection to the past, offering a rare opportunity to engage with the enduring traditions of the Kimberley’s Indigenous communities.

Freshwater Cover Rock Art the kimberleys — Walk among cultural records preserved in stone. (Image: Tim Faircloth)

See the best of this incredible part of the world on a Silversea Kimberley cruise. Book your 10- or extended 16-day expedition voyage at silversea.com

The perfect weekend in Esperance, WA