A first-timer’s guide to the Golden Outback, WA

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See firsthand how the diversity of the Golden Outback is unmatched.

The Golden Outback makes up a whopping 54 per cent of the state, stretching from the rugged red earth of Burringurrah/Mt Augustus to the powder-white sands of Esperance and the South Coast, and to the modern mining hub of Kalgoorlie in the historic Goldfields. With a landscape comprising rugged river valleys and ancient gorges that swallow the light, the Golden Outback offers rich pickings. And keep the region’s Traditional Owners in mind as you walk in their ancestor’s footsteps on an Indigenous-led tour of rock art believed to be up to 40,000 years old. It’s a landscape that is as dazzling as it is diverse. Here, discover the best of the Golden Outback.

The Golden Outback, Western Australia

The Golden Outback offers rich pickings. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Unique stays

Nallan Station

There is a range of accommodation choices at Nallan Station, from caravan sites to self-contained cottages, renovated shearers’ quarters and eco-friendly tents. Located 12 kilometres north-east of Cue along the Miners’ Pathway, the working farm is an ideal base for history buffs interested in the area’s gold-mining history. nallanstation.com

Merredin Treasury

Stay in the heart of the Wheatbelt in a faithfully restored Art Deco building that was Merredin’s bank in a former life. Built in 1928 and located on one of the town’s main streets, the Merredin Treasury has seven suites, as well as self-contained facilities designed for short-term and long- term stays. merredintreasury.com.au

The Jetty Resort

As the name suggests, this resort is located just a stone’s throw from the heritage-listed Tanker Jetty, which stretches out from the coast of Esperance. The resort has a range of different rooms to suit everyone from business travellers to families and is a one-minute walk to the beautifully frayed shoreline of Esperance.

The Golden Outback, Western Australia

The Golden Outback makes up a whopping 54 per cent of the state. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Five top spots

Burringurrah/Mt Augustus

Burringurrah/Mt Augustus is more than twice the size of Uluru. Laid out like a slumbering giant over the red earth, this soaring inselberg is about 715 metres high and visible in the shimmering distance for more than 160 kilometres.

Mt Augustus, The Golden Outback, Western Australia

Mt Augustus looms large over a landscape stubbled with spinifex. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

The Fitzgerald Biosphere

The Fitzgerald Biosphere is an internationally recognised reserve with more than 2500 varieties of stunning wildflower species. Hunker down in Hopetoun near Fitzgerald River National Park, located at its centre.

Cape Le Grand National Park

This glorious national park is a real headliner, with coastal scenery, imposing granite outcrops, inviting freshwater pools and a kaleidoscope of wildflower colour each year, all within just 45 minutes’ drive from Esperance. And then there’s the kangaroos, which roam freely along the oh-so-white sands of Lucky Bay looking all cute.

Kangaroo at Lucky Bay, Cape Le Grand National Park, The Golden Outback, Western Australia

Kangaroo at Lucky Bay, Cape Le Grand National Park. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Lake Ballard

British sculptor Antony Gormley scanned the bodies of residents from Menzies to inform the shape of his 51 steel sculptures, which stand like sentinels guarding the salt plains of Lake Ballard. Follow the Golden Quest Discovery Trail to get to the Inside Australia exhibit.

Mundatharrda/Kennedy Range

The Indigenous Inggarda name for the Kennedy Range is Mundatharrda and it’s one of the most ancient landforms in Australia. Set up camp at the base of the stark sandstone cliffs so you can rise in the cool of the morning for a wilderness walk and see wildflowers in full bloom.

Where to eat

Taylor St Quarters

There’s nothing like a sundowner on the west coast of Australia and Esperance is all about just that. Sunset here catches the crowds as much for the views as the food. Try the tempura Shark Bay prawns, or fish tacos at Taylor St Quarters, which was the original Esperance Hospital and Nurses Quarters in another life.

Taylor St Quarters, The Golden Outback, Western Australia

Taylor St Quarters has been given a new lease on life. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Walkers Hill Vineyard

The grass seems greener and the skies bluer at this award-winning winery located in the eastern Wheatbelt on the way to Wave Rock (Katter Kich), where you will want to take a selfie in the rolling sandstone barrel. Enjoy a few glasses of wine paired with a cheese platter or go for something more substantial such as smokey BBQ beef ribs or a chicken parmy.

Walkers Hill Vineyard, The Golden Outback, Western Australia

Walkers Hill Vineyard is embroidered onto the Earth in the Wheatbelt.

Lot 39 Store + Cafe

This cute little space is your go-to for a bit of retail therapy in Goomalling. After vibing on quality homewares, you can pick up home-cooked meals and ar tisan condiments to take with you. Order coffee and a bowl of seasonal granola or a leek and chicken pie to go.

Grand Hotel, Kookynie

What could be more Golden Outback than a bevvie with Willie the Horse at the Grand Hotel in the town of Kookynie – population 13? This colourful, quirky establishment is the quintessential Goldfields’ pub, located on the Golden Quest Discovery Trail, and is a top spot for a cold beer and a hot meal.

The Grand Hotel, The Golden Outback, Western Australia

Willie the Horse makes cameos at the Grand Hotel. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Top things to do

The Collie to Darkan Rail Trail

The Collie to Darkan Rail Trail has been redeveloped into a multi-purpose walking, biking and horse-riding trail. Regardless of your mode of transport, the 15-kilometre stretch east from Darkan to Dardadine will steer you in a straight line past rolling green farmland and carpets of wildflowers in spring.

Explore goldrush towns

The town of Norseman was founded in 1894 when prospector Laurie Sinclair and his trusty steed Hardy Norseman literally stumbled across a nugget of gold. This led to Sinclair trying his luck at scouring the earth for more gold, which led to another gold rush town. Follow the Dundas Coach Road Heritage Trail between Norseman and Dundas where you will discover more treasures in the Great Western Woodlands.

The Golden Outback’s festivals

Time your visit to coincide with a major event such as the Gascoyne River Music Festival or the Mt Magnet Astro Rocks Fest so you can really fall into rhythm with the state’s vast red heart.

Carla Grossetti avoided accruing a HECS debt by accepting a cadetship with News Corp. at the age of 18. After completing her cadetship at The Cairns Post Carla moved south to accept a position at The Canberra Times before heading off on a jaunt around Canada, the US, Mexico and Central America. During her career as a journalist, Carla has successfully combined her two loves – of writing and travel – and has more than two decades experience switch-footing between digital and print media. Carla’s CV also includes stints at delicious., The Sydney Morning Herald, and The Australian, where she specialises in food and travel. Carla also based herself in the UK where she worked at Conde Nast Traveller, and The Sunday Times’ Travel section before accepting a fulltime role as part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK. Carla and has been freelancing for Australian Traveller for more than a decade, where she works as both a writer and a sub editor.
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The outback wave you have to see to believe

    By Emily Murphy
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    This ancient rock formation looks like a giant ocean wave frozen in time, and it’s every bit as awe-inspiring as it sounds.

    Deep in Western Australia’s Wheatbelt, where the skies are big and the red earth stretches for miles, there’s a wave that doesn’t crash – it looms. Towering 15 metres high and curling dramatically like it’s been frozen mid-break, Wave Rock – known as Katter Kich to the Ballardong people of the Noongar Nation – is one of the most surreal natural formations in the country. And yes, it looks exactly like a giant stone tsunami rolling across the outback.

    Wave Rock under the Milky Way in Western Australia

    In local Dreaming stories, Wave Rock was created by the Rainbow Serpent. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

    Located just outside the small town of Hyden – a four-hour drive southeast of Perth – Wave Rock is fast becoming one of WA’s most Insta-famous destinations. But this is no recent TikTok trend: this ancient granite cliff is over 2.7 billion years old, predating the dinosaurs by hundreds of millions of years.

    What makes Wave Rock truly jaw-dropping is its colour and curve. The dramatic stripes along its surface – in hues of ochre, rust, charcoal and mustard – are the result of chemical weathering over millennia. Rainwater has washed down the rock face over time, dissolving minerals and creating the distinct streaks that give the formation its tiger-like coat. Combined with the perfect curve of the rock, it’s easy to forget this isn’t a real wave until you’re standing at its base, dwarfed by solid stone.

    Wave Rock in Western Australia

    Many visitors come to snap the classic ‘surfing the wave’ photo. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    While many visitors come to snap the classic ‘surfing the wave’ photo (bonus points for a boogie board prop), there’s more to this spot than a photo op. A short climb to the top offers sweeping views of the surrounding bushland and salt lakes, and the nearby 3.6-kilometre Wave Rock Walk Circuit lets you explore the full breadth of the outcrop and the surrounding area on foot.

    Hippo's Yawn at Wave Rock in Western Australia

    There’s no questioning why it’s called Hippo’s Yawn. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    Just a few minutes away, another quirky natural wonder adds to the appeal: Hippo’s Yawn. This rock formation – yes, also exactly what it sounds like – resembles a yawning hippopotamus and is a hit with families and photo hunters alike.

    Wave Rock is also rich in cultural significance, playing a role in local Dreaming stories. According to lore, the wave was created by the Rainbow Serpent as it dragged its body across the land. Visitors are encouraged to respect the site’s cultural importance and learn more about its history with local Indigenous tour operator Katter Kich Tours.

    Wave Rock Salt Baths in Western Australia

    Feel weightless in the salt pool. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    And if you’re planning a trip, there’s more than just geology to explore. The annual Wave Rock Weekender, held each spring, transforms this sleepy outback destination into a boutique music and arts festival complete with camping, lake swims and stargazing. There’s also a wildlife park, a lace museum and a salt pool that promises zero-gravity floating thanks to its high mineral content.

    Wave Rock in Western Australia

    Wave Rock has to be seen to be believed. (Image: Tourism Australia)

    The beauty of Wave Rock is that it manages to feel both completely out of place and exactly where it should be. It’s a natural marvel that looks like it belongs on another planet – or at least the edge of a vast ocean – but instead rises out of the dry, flat Wheatbelt like a mirage made real.

    So, if you’re chasing your next great Aussie road trip, add this prehistoric breaker to your bucket list. Because in the middle of WA’s red-dirt heartland, there’s a wave that doesn’t move – but will still move you.