A first-timer’s guide to the Golden Outback, WA

Carla GrossettiBy Carla Grossetti
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See firsthand how the diversity of the Golden Outback is unmatched.

The Golden Outback makes up a whopping 54 per cent of the state, stretching from the rugged red earth of Burringurrah/Mt Augustus to the powder-white sands of Esperance and the South Coast, and to the modern mining hub of Kalgoorlie in the historic Goldfields. With a landscape comprising rugged river valleys and ancient gorges that swallow the light, the Golden Outback offers rich pickings. And keep the region’s Traditional Owners in mind as you walk in their ancestor’s footsteps on an Indigenous-led tour of rock art believed to be up to 40,000 years old. It’s a landscape that is as dazzling as it is diverse. Here, discover the best of the Golden Outback.

The Golden Outback, Western Australia
The Golden Outback offers rich pickings. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Unique stays

Nallan Station

There is a range of accommodation choices at Nallan Station, from caravan sites to self-contained cottages, renovated shearers’ quarters and eco-friendly tents. Located 12 kilometres north-east of Cue along the Miners’ Pathway, the working farm is an ideal base for history buffs interested in the area’s gold-mining history. nallanstation.com

Merredin Treasury

Stay in the heart of the Wheatbelt in a faithfully restored Art Deco building that was Merredin’s bank in a former life. Built in 1928 and located on one of the town’s main streets, the Merredin Treasury has seven suites, as well as self-contained facilities designed for short-term and long- term stays. merredintreasury.com.au

The Jetty Resort

As the name suggests, this resort is located just a stone’s throw from the heritage-listed Tanker Jetty , which stretches out from the coast of Esperance. The resort has a range of different rooms to suit everyone from business travellers to families and is a one-minute walk to the beautifully frayed shoreline of Esperance.

The Golden Outback, Western Australia
The Golden Outback makes up a whopping 54 per cent of the state. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Five top spots

Burringurrah/Mt Augustus

Burringurrah/Mt Augustus is more than twice the size of Uluru. Laid out like a slumbering giant over the red earth, this soaring inselberg is about 715 metres high and visible in the shimmering distance for more than 160 kilometres.

Mt Augustus, The Golden Outback, Western Australia
Mt Augustus looms large over a landscape stubbled with spinifex. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

The Fitzgerald Biosphere

The Fitzgerald Biosphere is an internationally recognised reserve with more than 2500 varieties of stunning wildflower species. Hunker down in Hopetoun near Fitzgerald River National Park, located at its centre.

Cape Le Grand National Park

This glorious national park is a real headliner, with coastal scenery, imposing granite outcrops, inviting freshwater pools and a kaleidoscope of wildflower colour each year, all within just 45 minutes’ drive from Esperance. And then there’s the kangaroos, which roam freely along the oh-so-white sands of Lucky Bay looking all cute.

Kangaroo at Lucky Bay, Cape Le Grand National Park, The Golden Outback, Western Australia
Kangaroo at Lucky Bay, Cape Le Grand National Park. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Lake Ballard

British sculptor Antony Gormley scanned the bodies of residents from Menzies to inform the shape of his 51 steel sculptures, which stand like sentinels guarding the salt plains of Lake Ballard. Follow the Golden Quest Discovery Trail to get to the Inside Australia exhibit.

Mundatharrda/Kennedy Range

The Indigenous Inggarda name for the Kennedy Range is Mundatharrda and it’s one of the most ancient landforms in Australia. Set up camp at the base of the stark sandstone cliffs so you can rise in the cool of the morning for a wilderness walk and see wildflowers in full bloom.

Where to eat

Taylor St Quarters

There’s nothing like a sundowner on the west coast of Australia and Esperance is all about just that. Sunset here catches the crowds as much for the views as the food. Try the tempura Shark Bay prawns, or fish tacos at Taylor St Quarters , which was the original Esperance Hospital and Nurses Quarters in another life.

Taylor St Quarters, The Golden Outback, Western Australia
Taylor St Quarters has been given a new lease on life. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Walkers Hill Vineyard

The grass seems greener and the skies bluer at this award-winning winery located in the eastern Wheatbelt on the way to Wave Rock (Katter Kich), where you will want to take a selfie in the rolling sandstone barrel. Enjoy a few glasses of wine paired with a cheese platter or go for something more substantial such as smokey BBQ beef ribs or a chicken parmy.

Walkers Hill Vineyard, The Golden Outback, Western Australia
Walkers Hill Vineyard is embroidered onto the Earth in the Wheatbelt.

Lot 39 Store + Cafe

This cute little space is your go-to for a bit of retail therapy in Goomalling. After vibing on quality homewares, you can pick up home-cooked meals and ar tisan condiments to take with you. Order coffee and a bowl of seasonal granola or a leek and chicken pie to go.

Grand Hotel, Kookynie

What could be more Golden Outback than a bevvie with Willie the Horse at the Grand Hotel in the town of Kookynie – population 13? This colourful, quirky establishment is the quintessential Goldfields’ pub, located on the Golden Quest Discovery Trail, and is a top spot for a cold beer and a hot meal.

The Grand Hotel, The Golden Outback, Western Australia
Willie the Horse makes cameos at the Grand Hotel. (Image: Tourism Western Australia)

Top things to do

The Collie to Darkan Rail Trail

The Collie to Darkan Rail Trail has been redeveloped into a multi-purpose walking, biking and horse-riding trail. Regardless of your mode of transport, the 15-kilometre stretch east from Darkan to Dardadine will steer you in a straight line past rolling green farmland and carpets of wildflowers in spring.

Explore goldrush towns

The town of Norseman was founded in 1894 when prospector Laurie Sinclair and his trusty steed Hardy Norseman literally stumbled across a nugget of gold. This led to Sinclair trying his luck at scouring the earth for more gold, which led to another gold rush town. Follow the Dundas Coach Road Heritage Trail between Norseman and Dundas where you will discover more treasures in the Great Western Woodlands.

The Golden Outback’s festivals

Time your visit to coincide with a major event such as the Gascoyne River Music Festival or the Mt Magnet Astro Rocks Fest so you can really fall into rhythm with the state’s vast red heart.

Carla Grossetti
Carla Grossetti avoided accruing a HECS debt by accepting a cadetship with News Corp. at the age of 18. After completing her cadetship at The Cairns Post Carla moved south to accept a position at The Canberra Times before heading off on a jaunt around Canada, the US, Mexico and Central America. During her career as a journalist, Carla has successfully combined her two loves – of writing and travel – and has more than two decades experience switch-footing between digital and print media. Carla’s CV also includes stints at delicious., The Sydney Morning Herald, and The Australian, where she specialises in food and travel. Carla also based herself in the UK where she worked at Conde Nast Traveller, and The Sunday Times’ Travel section before accepting a fulltime role as part of the pioneering digital team at The Guardian UK. Carla and has been freelancing for Australian Traveller for more than a decade, where she works as both a writer and a sub editor.
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Inspire your senses with these iconic East Kimberley stays

    Jennifer EnnionBy Jennifer Ennion
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    The East Kimberley should be on every bucket list, and here’s why.

    Livistona palms soar out of chasms the colour of Valencia oranges. Shady waterholes beckon travellers daring to venture off the bitumen. From the air, fruit farms give way to vast plains that meet rolling hills and fascinating geological formations centuries in the making. The East Kimberley is one of Australia’s most treasured wilderness areas, but don’t be fooled by its rust-coloured roads. This north-eastern corner of Western Australia is home to some of Australia’s most iconic stays by Discovery Resorts  that should be on everyone’s bucket list.

    A group of people enjoy an intimate dining experience at El Questro Homestead.
    Dine in the heart of nature.

    Your guide to Lake Argyle

    The backstory

    With rolling hills that glow amber at sunrise and glassy water that reflects the Kimberley’s bright blue sky, a visit to Lake Argyle is nothing short of awe-inspiring. As Australia’s second-largest man-made freshwater lake, travellers flock here to soak in the views from boats, helicopters and Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle .

    The latter is a lakeside oasis, a resort where travellers crossing from Western Australia into the Northern Territory (or vice versa) converge. Fifty minutes’ drive south of Kununurra, the property is perched atop a cliff overlooking the sprawling Lake Argyle.

    Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle was originally built in the late 1960s to provide accommodation for builders of the Ord River dam, which formed Lake Argyle. In the decades that followed it had several owners, until a Kununurra local took the reins in 2004 and reinvented the property with luxury villas and its now world-famous infinity pool. The iconic property was added to the Discovery Resorts portfolio in 2021, undergoing a major upgrade that took the resort from a beloved campground to an all-encompassing resort with premium waterfront villas.

    A boat glides across the expansive waters of Lake Argyle, surrounded by the breathtaking landscapes of the Kimberley. As part of the Discovery Holiday Parks experience, this unforgettable journey offers adventure and relaxation.
    Glide across the vast, shimmering waters of Lake Argyle.

    The rooms

    A lakeside resort like no other, Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle offers something for everyone, from campsites to villas and cabins . The Deluxe Lakeview Cabins have views of the opposing cliff and are surrounded by bush, ensuring plenty of privacy, while both the Deluxe and Standard Cabins are ideal for families, with contemporary furnishings and one, two or four bedrooms. The campsites also come in a variety of sizes.

    The facilities

    There’s no doubt the biggest drawcard to Discovery Resorts – Lake Argyle is the lake, 20 times the size of Sydney Harbour. One of the best ways to experience it is on the Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer Cruise , during which you’ll see freshwater crocodiles nesting along the banks (it’s home to 30,000 freshies) and even get the chance to swim in their waters. The cruise also takes in Mt Misery, towering above the original and now submerged Argyle Downs Homestead.

    If you have young children who need to get to bed early, a great alternative is the three-hour Lunch Explorer Cruise . You’ll tour around the lake’s bays as you learn about the local wildlife before stopping at a remote island for a swim.

    Refuel between adventures at the onsite pub-style eatery, The Lake Argyle Cafe. The cafe is the heart of the resort, bringing together friends new and old over a steak, cold beer and live music. Hours vary with the seasons, but rest assured you’ll be able to enjoy a good feed year-round, with a well-stocked general store also open during the day.

    Cool off from a day of exploring in the striking infinity pool with some of the best views in the country (you’ll find sweeping views of the lake below). Or enjoy a flight with HeliSpirit, or clear your mind during a yoga class on the lawn.

    Two people unwind in an infinity pool, overlooking stunning Lake Argyle at Discovery Holiday Parks.
    Take a dip in the infinity pool and soak in breathtaking Lake Argyle views.

    Your guide to El Questro

    The backstory

    One of the most famous stays in Australia is El Questro . A former cattle station, it’s evolved into one of the country’s most recognisable tourism destinations over the past 30 years, and is now embarking on a new chapter to elevate the region’s rich First Nations culture.

    The property draws travellers seeking to reconnect with nature and the beauty of this country. Wild in spirit but immaculate in style, El Questro is a 283,000-hectare property like no other; surrounded by dramatic gorges, impressive mountain ranges, thermal springs, secluded waterfalls and even rainforest, it’s the perfect base for adventurous souls.

    A person floats leisurely in the river at Discovery Holiday Parks, immersed in nature’s tranquillity.
    Float along Zebedee Springs and immerse in nature.

    The rooms

    Across the sprawling El Questro are three properties catering to the wide variety of travellers who journey this way. The most impressive is the luxurious Homestead , where 10 suites perch at the edge of a burnt-orange cliff, with cantilevered bedrooms over the peaceful Chamberlain River. The adults-only, all-inclusive Homestead is a member of the prestigious Luxury Lodges of Australia collection and offers a backdrop of thick bushland; riverside, you’ll find an immaculate lawn and a shaded pool that lures guests out of their rooms.

    At Emma Gorge , travellers will be immersed in the beauty of the Cockburn Ranges, falling asleep to the sounds of wildlife in safari-style tented cabins. This is where you come if you want to completely connect with your environment while retaining a few creature comforts. The Emma Gorge Tented Cabins sleep three or four people and feature private ensuites and ceiling fans.

    Families also love The Station , home to simple yet comfortable air-conditioned rooms, as well as a large, leafy campground. Sitting by the Pentecost River, The Station is open from April to October and has a range of accommodation, from unpowered and powered campsites to air-conditioned tents for two people and a Gardenview Family Room for five.

    Two people stand beside a suite perched on the edge of a striking burnt-orange cliff, gazing out over the serene Chamberlain River below.
    Take a breather with stunning views of nature all around.

    The facilities

    Located in the heart of the Kimberley, El Questro retains its strong connection with its Traditional Owners, the Ngarinyin people. A highlight of a stay here is the Injiid Marlabu Calls Us experience ; over two hours, guests are immersed in the soul of Country by witnessing ancient healing rituals, listening to generational stories and learning about the land’s ancestral heritage.

    Other experiences include bird watching, cruising through Chamberlain Gorge, hiking through Emma Gorge, horse riding, four-wheel-driving and soaking in Zebedee Springs. At the properties, you can also cool off in the pools, and relax in the restaurants or at private dining locations. A bonus of staying at The Homestead is the exclusive service of El Questro’s dedicated reservations team, who will craft a bespoke itinerary tailored to your travel tastes.

    A group of people stand beside a tree, with a car parked nearby, taking in the surrounding natural beauty.
    Experience thrilling nature activities.

    Book your East Kimberley adventure today with Discovery Resorts.