Continuing on with her Golden Outback road trip, Jenny Ringland takes the road less travelled and explores stunning Fitzgerald River National Park, one of the largest parks in WA.
Part 2: Wave Rock to Hopetoun
It’s a 3.5-hour drive to Hopetoun via Lake King and Ravensthorpe. Passing Lake King, we’re met by the same eerie scene of dead trees and cracks of salt.
According to Sheenagh, the government matches dollar for dollar the money farmers spend on regeneration. However, few have participated in the scheme.
“Farmers don’t have that money to spare. We’ve only just come out of a 10-year drought where so many farmers were forced off the land. Spending money on regeneration isn’t a priority and you can’t blame them,’’ she says.
More stories of hardship greet us at Hopetoun – this time thanks to the sale of BHP’s nickel mine in 2010, but there’s a recurring theme emerging. Everyone seems happy.
It’s a tiny coastal village with a bakery, cafe-slash-small-goods store and a self-serve laundromat, petrol station and hot shower depot for independent campers passing through. However it’s Fitzgerald River National Park that demands our attention.
We’re surprised to learn that it’s one of the largest and most botanically significant parks in Australia, home to nearly 20 per cent of WA’s flora species.
Even more surprising is that we literally have the park to ourselves. We follow a 1.7-kilometre walking trail to Hamersley Beach and at each turn the sound of crashing waves intensifies.
We weave past Hamersley Inlet, which has a lovely protected spot for camping and arrive to find an extreme coastline, sand dotted with prehistoric-looking rocks jutting from the ground, and sea mist swirling. We feel quickly transported back millions of years.
The park has it all: desert-like sand dunes, jaw-droppingly beautiful beaches, and days’ worth of walking to do. So why is it that we have the place to ourselves?
“We’re just one of many national parks in WA," says Rick Besso, owner of local accommodation Wavecrest.
“We have a lot of competition and to get to Hopetoun it’s a detour, but we’re hoping we can attract more of the independent travellers, the grey nomads… you know? It’s really beautiful here," Rick says. Yep, we hear you.
Need tips, more detail or itinerary ideas tailored to you? Ask AT.
With its prime position on one of Australia’s most iconic beaches, lush tropical surrounds and exceptional dining, wellness and leisure experiences, Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa is the perfect base for exploring the spectacular Kimberley region.
For many travellers, Broome is the gateway to the wild grandeur of the Kimberley – a launch point for epic 4WD journeys along the legendary Gibb River Road, rugged outback tours and expedition cruises tracing the remote coastline. Whether you’re arriving dust-covered from the red dirt or preparing to venture deep into the region’s untamed landscapes, Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa offers the perfect place to begin or end the adventure. The only fully integrated resort in Broome, the property unfolds along meandering pathways that wind through lush tropical gardens, past tranquil lily ponds and hand-carved timber sculptures that subtly guide guests towards reception.
Location
Let friendly staff help you book a camel ride on Cable Beach. (Credit: Tourism WA/ Matt Deakin)
Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa lies just steps from the famed Cable Beach, where the silhouettes of camels crossing the shoreline at sunset have become one of Australia’s most enduring tourism images. The only beachfront resort in Broome, it’s also just a few minutes’ drive to the centre of town, where guests can wander through Chinatown and peruse its pearl stores and galleries or catch a movie beneath the stars at the heritage-listed Sun Pictures.
The friendly team at the resort’s tour desk can also help tailor your stay, whether that’s an iconic camel ride along the beach, a visit to Willie Creek Pearl Farm to discover how the gems are harvested or a guided tour to see the ancient dinosaur footprints revealed among the rust-red rocks of Gantheaume Point at low tide.
Style and character
Walk into an eclectic blend of influences and eras.
Few resorts capture the essence of their surroundings quite like Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa. First opened in 1988, the resort is a celebration of Broome’s rich multicultural past, from its Japanese pearl divers to Chinese merchants. The result is an eclectic blend of influences and eras. The resort features wide timber verandahs, corrugated iron walls and tin roofs designed to temper the tropical climate. To keep it breezy, Broome’s signature lattice (a distinct painted timber lattice detailing iconic to the tropical architecture of the Kimberley region) has been used across the resort with two functions – allowing a breeze through while maintaining privacy.
Scattered throughout the manicured gardens is an impressive collection of rare Asian and international artefacts. Chinese bluestone lions stand sentinel at the entrance, while terracotta warrior horses, vermillion Japanese torii gates and traditional Shishi (lion-dog) statues lend an air of quiet grandeur. Fragrant with frangipani blossoms and shaded by century-old boab and mango trees, the grounds are also a haven for native wildlife. Birds provide a constant soundtrack, while wallabies and tiny lizards rustle through the foliage.
Rooms
Sleep in comfort and style.
The extensive accommodation options span studios, bungalows, club apartments, villas and suites. Family bungalows draw inspiration from the grand homes of Broome’s pearl masters, translating that heritage into generous layouts, high ceilings and verandahs that open to the gardens. Studios and villas are perfect for couples and solo stays, pairing soft coastal tones with private balconies or courtyards. While club apartments and suites are designed for longer stays, offering multiple bedrooms, kitchen facilities and seamless indoor-outdoor living.
Food and drink
Tuck into an Asian fusion menu at Kichi Kichi.
The dining scene at Cable Beach Club Resort & Spa reflects Broome’s position at the crossroads of the Indian Ocean and Asia, where coastal produce meets a tapestry of multicultural influences.
Contemporary Asian fusion dishes – from crisp fried pork belly and roast Peking duck breast to Burmese lamb curry – deliver bold, vibrant flavours at Kichi Kichi. While the handmade tortellini filled with pearl meat and prawn served at atmospheric Italian restaurant, Cichetti, is the kind of dish that you will remember long after the final bite. Elsewhere on the menu, find effortless flair across dishes like Wedge Island octopus, market fish crudo and silky goat’s milk panna cotta.
As the sun begins to dip below the horizon, Sunset Bar & Grill becomes the place to be. Here, guests gather over freshly shucked oysters, cured meat platters and buckets of sweet Exmouth prawns. Or, for a quieter evening in, guests can retreat to the comfort of their room and order from Cable Eats, the resort’s in-room dining service.
Pools
Relax by the adults-only Ocean Pool.
Two distinct pool settings invite guests to shape their day exactly as they please. Drift into the calm of the adults-only Ocean Pool, where attentive service delivers dishes such as grilled prawn skewers and salt-and-pepper calamari straight to your cabana or sunbed well into the afternoon.
The mood at the family-friendly Kimberley Pool – framed by a cascading waterfall, the heart of the resort’s recreational precinct – is decidedly more playful. Here, younger guests are catered for with a dedicated kids’ menu of familiar favourites including chicken nuggets, fish and chips and ham-and-cheese toasties, while parents can graze on more refined poolside fare, such as fried squid, soba noodle salad and gourmet burgers.
Chahoya Spa & Salon
Book a treatment at Chahoya Spa.
Chahoya Spa brings a refined sense of indulgence inspired by its Japanese name, meaning “pamper”, with signature treatments including the Kimberley Dreamtime ritual and Chahoya Pearl Massage designed to soothe tired bodies and quiet busy minds. There is also an on-site salon providing personalised cuts, colour services and restorative hair care, ensuring guests leave feeling polished and renewed.
Other facilities
Join a yoga class at the Buddha Sanctuary.
Wellness continues at the Buddha Sanctuary, a serene open-air pavilion just beyond the main resort grounds, where yoga classes are held six days a week amid ornamental gardens and a striking 3.5-metre hand-carved crystal Buddha statue. Beyond the sanctuary, the resort caters to every pace of stay, with a children’s playground, mini golf, tennis courts and a fully-equipped gym. Guests can also browse the resort’s boutique gift shop, home to Allure South Sea Pearls – the brand behind Broome’s first dedicated pearl boutique in Chinatown.
